Jump to content

Astrophotography, Vía Lactea


falevian

Recommended Posts

This picture was created with 6 photos at 20s, ISO4000, F/2.0 with the Fuji x-pro1 and Samyang 12mm. I used Photoshop for align the 6 photos. The converted it to smart objet and use the stack option called "median".  By doing the mean or median, you are separating the signal to the noise. If the relation between boh is bigger enogh, you can see more details in the nebulae in the astrophoto.

Ps 4000 Edit

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

That's the "used Photoshop for align the 6 photos" part. In astrophotography image processing is at least half the work. You can't do wonders if the original images are bad, but even if they're as good there's still tons of processing to do before you end up with a great picture of the milky way or other astronomical objects.

 

I posted this list in an earlier topic, but I guess it might be useful here as well:

Despite the topic, this isn't really X-T1 specific thread. Might be useful to move this to more appropriate area. Although I'm not sure which one that would be.

 

There's really no magical way to get rid of the noise. Increasing the exposure time and stacking exposures will help in getting rid most of it. Noise reduction algorithms will always remove some of the dimmer stars, but usually isn't really a problem since those faint stars wouldn't be visible in the final image anyway.

 

I doubt anyone here can give you better advice than what can be found from a number of different online tutorials, such as (these are in some kind of order, just don't ask me what it is):

http://www.lonelyspeck.com/

http://www.astropix.com/index.html

http://theartofnight.com/2014/06/the-art-of-astrophotography-tutorial/

http://www.astro-imaging.com/Tutorial/PixInsight/M33/en.html (processing tutorial)

https://www.reddit.com/r/astrophotography/comments/2acnqb/the_great_list_of_astrophotography_software/ (software list)

http://www.deepskycolors.com/

http://www.skyandtelescope.com/astronomy-resources/astrophotography-tips/

http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/toc_ap.html

https://photographylife.com/astrophotography-tutorial

 

 

Few other useful links:

http://app.photoephemeris.com/

http://www.lightpollutionmap.info/

http://www.blue-marble.de/nightlights/2012 (and the rest of the blue marble site)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Posts

    • Hello. I have a x-s10 that I use multiple lenses with. Yesterday I noticed that with the Fujinon 16mm lens I'm having issues auto-focusing. It works on video but not for still images. When I half press the button it focuses a bit then when I release the button it snaps back to the previous focus point. Even though it manages to focus the image is still blurry. Any ideas please. I already did a a major google search and nobody has mentioned this issue. Thanks, Etienne   
    • X Raw Studio works with image files on your computer - not the image files on the camera card
    • Hello. Thankyou,now Is all more clear: I have take some time in your link. Let tell you. I has totaly forget this machine have "compress picture option" and not Only "compress lossless" anyway not change the experiment. RAW  and this last two format look like same result about Number of recording picture. Can tell all results in this: in raw you can make 17 pictures for second. Is wrong. Is about One single Press and wait buffer. Full 30/20/10/8 not change. After 17 Need Press again. You not can Press before "redgreen light recording Is on".   With preshot you can have 25  are more 7 pictures . The story change Only in jpg shot only. In jpg at 30 you have 30 picture but redgreen light off very Fast so you can shot very quicly. At 20 shot Is about start look like infinite shot. 60. So the best performance are this last One  about Speed and recording picture after camera working witout big limit. I want take a shot about Italy cyclet Just for passion. I think i Will use this last setting.  After Need check when battery not are full change and ambient temp.  Anyway my cam look like exactly specific about you link. Im Happy my cam working perfectly.
×
×
  • Create New...