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I wanted to see if I can get rid of the Sony, given I enjoy much more the results I'm getting from the Fuji in terms of colors and ease of post-processing. So today I put them one against the other taking identical shots few seconds apart. You can see below a couple of twin crops (click on them to see them properly, albeit softened by the web compression probably used by the forum software backend) that on a normal, non-retina, screen will have the same dimensions of a print of a 100cm length. In each, one of the images has been shot with a Sony A7r ("Vivid" picture style), the other with the X-T10 ("Velvia" film simulation), trying to match the colors to a reasonable approximation. Both using Contax Zeiss glass at f/11 (a 50/1.7 Planar on the Sony, a 35/2.8 Distagon on the Fuji; I know these lenses well, and from f/5.6 forward they are undistinguishable so any difference is due the sensor, not the lens). Irident (or RawTherapee with deconvolution sharpening and microcontast) would be able to squeeze even more details from the X-T10, but for these examples I've used Photoshop CS 6.1 I'm extremely impressed, to say the least. Remembering that you will watch a print this big at least from 60/80cm apart, so please don't put your nose on the screen , can you tell which one is which2? Hint: if I keep getting these results my A7r is hitting eBay soon! 1Using the following sharpening procedure, should you be curious. SHARPENING METHOD USED Keep in mind that the following values are indicative (you'll have to tweak them based on the picture content and the amount of detail) and based on fairly big prints, like 60x90cm and up. However, given that to properly apply them you will have to use your picture as a "Smart object", they might work even for smaller print sizes, especially toning down the radiuses. In Lightroom or in Camera Raw (same thing) I give the files a fairly conservative (for an X-trans sensor) capture sharpening: amount 40 / radius 1 / details 60 / masking 10. Then I open the file in Photoshop as a "Smart object" and I resize it to fit my desired print dimensions. At that point I use first the old, classic "Unsharp mask": amount 120%, radius 1.5 pixels, threshold 0. And finally "Smart sharpen" in "Advanced" mode to extract the textures and the small detail (this takes care of the watercolor effect, basically). General tab: amount 131%, radius 1.5 pixels, "Lens blur" with "More accurate" activated Shadows: fade amount 60%, tonal width 50, radius 1 Highlights: fade amount 20%, tonal width 50, radius 1 OPTIONAL STEP (not used in the samples above): at this point, should you want results more comparable to Irident, but at the cost of a tad more noise, you should add another round of "Smart sharpen": amount 40, radius 1. After these steps all that's left is print sharpening, but of that I usually let the now free Nik Sharpen plugin take care of. 2In both cases left Sony A7r, right Fuji X-T10