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  1. I have an XT1 and absolutely love it. I'm thinking of trading it in for an XT3 - but am wondering if it is worth it. I'm not really interested in movies, and most of the extra you get with the XT3 seems to be in the video area. Also, is the XT3 heavier than the XT1? I really like the light weight of the XT1.
  2. today while shooting, my xt3 had a shutter delay, it did nothing when i pressed the shutter, but only took a shot when i released the shutter, it only happened twice, and im using some vintage manual focus lenses so no focus/release priorities, any clue?
  3. Hi, I’m having some trouble with getting the green focus square to show. I’ve checked the obvious things like ‘AF point display’ is on and I’m using ‘zone’ focus mode. I’ve tried both AF-C and AF-S. I’ve even tried resetting all shooting settings. I’d really like to see the green square to know exactly what the camera is focusing on. Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m using an X-T3 with the 16-55.
  4. From the album: Aircraft

    British heavy bomber rear gunner. Museum display. XT-3 focus stacking feature.

    © Paul Broadbent

  5. Recently bought a new XT3 off of adorama. However, I noticed that the shutter collar/on and off button is questionably loose. The collar/button does not sit flush on the bottom, and it can be pushed up and down a tiny amount (see the video). There's also a tiny indentation on the button. The camera otherwise looks new (shutter count was 0) and there's no noticeable wear anywhere, so it probably wasn't ever used. I've read a few other forums where people had more or less the same issue, but they never mentioned anything about the collar not sitting flat, which makes me a bit worried. Cause for concern? If I do end up sending it back, hopefully they'll even consider this an issue? shutter collar.mp4
  6. Where are the heralded 3.20 firmware for X-T3?
  7. Hello all, I'm a relatively new owner of an XT-3 and I'm loving it so far! In addition to the general usage of family photos that this camera is going to get I'm also very interested in capturing scene linear data for my creative 3D endeavors. I've gone over Fuji's F-log datasheet and used an expression node in Nuke to create a conversion from the raw f-log values into scene linear. The issue I'm having is that I often find negative values in the resulting scene linear image. I've attached one of the LUTs I produced from this method and you'll notice that there are several places where negative values are produced. This seems unexpected. Has anyone else looked into conversion of F-log to scene linear? flog_to_acescg.cube
  8. Hi all, i have a Tenba DNA 8 ( i love it ) that i use to take with me: - Fuji xt3 - Fuji 23mm/f2 - Fuji 50mm/f2 - Viltrox 85mm - two batteries After purchasing the Viltrox there is no more space and the extraction of a lens has become uncomfortable. In the future maybe i will buy also the fuji 35mm/f2. Which bag would you recommend? I don't like leather bags and i would like to spend max 120 €. Thanks in advance. Ale
  9. I have a Lightroom subscription and have been ysing it for a while now, however the RAF didn’t seem very good, certainly no where as good as jpegs..then i tried to use enhance details and found almost no difference and in some cases a much smoother image as if it got compressed...i shifted to capture one pro 12 and that thing doesn’t even recognize any photos on my laptop when i try to import...can someone please help me, I’m feeling hopeless 🤕
  10. I Just got a Fuji X-T3 from Amazon Warehouse deals, and the button feels off... I used a X-T1 and have a X-t2 and they both feel very different to the X-T3. I made a video to ask if this is how the X-T3 works or if I got a "faulty" unit.
  11. Hello I bought a new Fuji X-T3 and went to take some pictures, JPG + RAF. I used two SIM cards (one as a backup). When I got back home, I started uploading all of them to my computer (Mac). I removed the main SIM card from the camera and plugged it into a multi/card reader, the same way I always do. There were in total: RAF = 147 photos, and JPG = 159 photos. I was able to upload: RAF = 75 photos (51%), and JPG = 117 photos (74%). After those photos were uploaded, an error message appeared in the screen: THE FINDER CAN’T COMPLETE THE OPERATION BECAUSE SOME DATA IN (NAME OF THE NEXT PICTURE) CAN’T BE READ OR WRITTEN. ERROR CODE -36. No more photos were uploaded, even when I tried several times. I also tried doing the process one photo at a time, and also repeated the process with the second SIM card. Same results. Thinking that the two SIM cards were corrupted or damaged at the same time (???), I then tried to format and take some more pictures with another SIM card and to upload them to the computer. The same situation and exact message came up over. I am able to see all the pictures (RAF & JPG) directly from the SIM cards connected to the Mac, I just can’t upload them to it. My frustration is that 51% of the RAF, and 74% of the JPG photos were already uploaded using the same method, devices, computer, etc., without any problem, and then just stopped. What can I do or check for? Is that something to do with the way the camera store the photos in the SIM card? Again, it performed as expected PARTIALLY, and then stopped! Thank you for your advise.
  12. I just started using the Fuji XT3 and I'm having an issue with the colours of my final images. I custom set the white balance and in the LCD and EVF preview the photos are perfectly white balanced and exposed, however when I opened them on my laptop, the white background appeared more grey, and the overall image is more subdued. Is this normal or is there a setting I need to change?
  13. Hi, I'm having some weird issues with the Fringer EF-FX Pro II on my Fuji XT3 and I hope someone can help. When using the adapter with my Canon and Sigma lenses the image on the camera LCD is not showing the correct depth of field for the selected aperture unless I half-press the shutter button. The dof in the image remains wide open unless I half-press the shutter. The exposure of the image is shown correctly and changes accordingly when changing the apertue on the lens, the aperture numbers on the screen also indicate the correct selected f-stop, but the dof in the image remains shallow, as if the lens is wide open, unless I half-press the shutter. Half pressing the shutter also no longer affects the focus of the image. I'm shooting in S mode with settings full manual- ss, iso, aperture. I've formatted the camera, updated to the latest firmware in camera and adapter (1.7) and the issue still persists. Is this there a menu fix I'm missing here? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is this possibly a Fringer issue? Thanks for your help! D
  14. Is there a startup time difference between OVF and EVF on the XPRO3? I have the XT3 and wonder if there's a noticable difference between startup times between XT3 EVF and XPRO3 OVF. Fujifilm website says XPRO3 startup is 0.4s vs XT3 0.3s but wondering about real-world experience and if there's a timing benefit to OVF.
  15. Does anyone know with the current economy due to the pandemic if sales for cameras will go down? I find it a bit odd that fujifilm ended their sales on March, right in the middle of the crisis (Can they really afford to only offer premium prices)?
  16. So i have a friend in Hollywood FL thats about to return home on monday morning. This is my last chance to purchase an XT3 and join Fuji but it's out of stock everywhere. Does anyone know any local stores he could walk in and purchase? Shipping is obviously out of the question.
  17. Eye sensor on my XT3 stopped working out of the blue. After narrowing down the cause, I found out that after I turn the camera off and back on the eye sensor is working for 2-15 seconds and switches between EVF and display as expected. After that, it stops working. I removed the sd card, tried different batteries, even changed the lens and also updated to the latest firmware as well as resetting the camera twice. After all of this, the eye sensor is still not working. Has anyone encountered something similar?
  18. What could be causing this in my X-T3. 160ISO, 20 sec exposure, 16-80mm at 22 mm. Attached is a crop. Looks like red and green hot pixels. My film sim is the std default as well. All photos are raw and edited in lightroom.
  19. Hi to all Fuji lovers, I’d like to share a shortfilm https://vimeo.com/456176145 I recently released and has some complementary shots on Fuji xt3, most of the footage is from DNG files Magic Lantern on 5d MK3 from 2013. Hope you guys like it and feedback welcome!!!!
  20. Recently upgraded from my XT-1 and purchased a black Fuji XT-3, but it ended up getting "lost in transit." Now it seems that it's no longer in stock, and B&H is no help. And on top of that, the price has now gone back up from the $999 price to $1,499. Is the XT-3 really that backed up on orders? What's going on to cause the price increase and such a long restock time?
  21. Hi guys, Before I'm taking my XT3 for repair, making one last check: My ISO dial apparently stopped working - the ISO level is on 320 and turning the dial just won't do anything anymore. Also, tried to set the command dial to change the ISO with no luck, and I'm pretty sure I've adjusted everything correctly in the menu. The only time the ISO DO change is when I put the camera in F-LOG, then it changes to 640. Any ideas? I'm pretty lost here.
  22. when the green square is moved to the spot in the frame I have selected and the camera is moved at all, the green square moves to other squares. It does not remain on the initial square selected. The camera model is an xt3.
  23. I wanna buy X-T3, but only can afford used one. What should I check first, and what any other possible weak points of camera in term of use etc, which I should be aware of? I'm interesting also in evf behavior in low light (my previous experience with 2.36 evf in other camera in low light was a bit painful, a lot of digital noise so I barely was able to (manually) focus), and since I like to shoot in low light, what's the possible slowest shutter speed I can get without blur handheld with 50mm f/2 wr lens, for example? And generally, how good non ois wr lens and is lack of ois/ibis in low light is actually that important? I also heard couple doubtful messages about 50mm f/2 being "not that sharp". Also, how much if any weather sealing gonna be affected after repair, after shutter replacement for example (and in any other cameras, not only Fuji)? And the last question is, is there any simple and fast method to crop to 4:3 ratio in photo (I just prefer 4:3)? Like in camera menus or something, or at least to put on some framing grid etc (it's really simple in any post, but I wanna see my 4:3 during the actual photo shooting if it's possible)? Afaik some other cameras have 4:3 mode, and I didn't find that Fuji have one and I hope it'll be someday implemented with firmware update. Thanks for answers.
  24. Hi I'm Mac "The Roadie Guy" today was a Big day. I bought my first Fujifilm camera the XT-3 and 10-24mm lens. I've downsized from the Nikon D810 and so looking forward to getting out there shooting. A new chapter in my photography life. Cheers Mac
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