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Showing results for tags 'fuji'.
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From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero
Delightful sight of the Valle della Valletta, in the Gesso Valley, Western Alps, Piedmont, Italy© Stefano Gabriele Vallero
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From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero
Sun reflecting on the glassy surface of the Print Media Academy building in Heidelberg, Germany© Stefano Gabriele Vallero
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From the album: samyang 12mm F/2 - swallero
Last rays of sun over the fields in the Piedmont countryside. Shot with Fujifilm X-t1 and Samyang 12mm F/2© Stefano Gabriele Vallero
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Hello I bought a new Fuji X-T3 and went to take some pictures, JPG + RAF. I used two SIM cards (one as a backup). When I got back home, I started uploading all of them to my computer (Mac). I removed the main SIM card from the camera and plugged it into a multi/card reader, the same way I always do. There were in total: RAF = 147 photos, and JPG = 159 photos. I was able to upload: RAF = 75 photos (51%), and JPG = 117 photos (74%). After those photos were uploaded, an error message appeared in the screen: THE FINDER CAN’T COMPLETE THE OPERATION BECAUSE SOME DATA IN (NAME OF THE NEXT PICTURE) CAN’T BE READ OR WRITTEN. ERROR CODE -36. No more photos were uploaded, even when I tried several times. I also tried doing the process one photo at a time, and also repeated the process with the second SIM card. Same results. Thinking that the two SIM cards were corrupted or damaged at the same time (???), I then tried to format and take some more pictures with another SIM card and to upload them to the computer. The same situation and exact message came up over. I am able to see all the pictures (RAF & JPG) directly from the SIM cards connected to the Mac, I just can’t upload them to it. My frustration is that 51% of the RAF, and 74% of the JPG photos were already uploaded using the same method, devices, computer, etc., without any problem, and then just stopped. What can I do or check for? Is that something to do with the way the camera store the photos in the SIM card? Again, it performed as expected PARTIALLY, and then stopped! Thank you for your advise.
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Greetings Fuji community! I'm a filmmaker and photographer who shoots on the Fuji X100F. Recently, I created a comprehensive video review of the camera - and I think you'll all find incredible. In this video, we'll dive deep into what I consider the most creative and stylish pocket camera I've ever used. Enjoy the viewing experience, and please share it around! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BWgd4A5oPc
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Is there any option to set the ISO on the front dial, or at least to change it to shutter speed? With the 16-80 lens, I don't need any dial to set the F number anymore, but at the moment the front dial has no value at all, does not change anything in any mode (I use). Thanks guys.
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From the album: Icelandic trip
© lf-photography
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From the album: Icelandic trip
© lf-photography
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The lens makes a rattling sound when shaken gently, sounds like a loose element. No image stabilisation so no idea what it could be. Is this normal?
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From the album: Lifestyle photo shoot London Fuji X-T10
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- Fashion street
- girl
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Article on Lens Review - 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 1:1 Macro with Fuji X-T30 camera. Image samples on 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens Flickr group. Article on disassembly, focus calibration of 7Artisans 60mm F2.8 lens
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After moving to Fuji X system I extensively used large number of Trans-X bodies and XF lens. Most of them perform excellent optically and very good mechanically. I think Fuji is doing great job designing and supporting gear. The only thing is bothering me all the time - if the electronics is dead lens typically becomes fully unusable. There are numerous third party or adapted fully manual lens that solve that concern. But what if I want to keep using my favorite Fuji optics mechanically? I've performed numerous attempts and discovered potential of converting XF 35mm F1.4 and XF 27mm F2.8, and recently found highly satisfying result of adapting Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 that requires relatively low effort. Here's resulting article explaining what can you do with electronically dead Fujinon XF 27mm F2.8 lens to bring it back to life in much more compact frame of Industar 50-2. Alternatively you can also use adapted Fuji XF 27mm F2.8 lens on other APS-C cameras like Sony or Canon.
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Hello, I noticed today that the latch which is turned to open the battery chamber on my xh1 battery grip does not snap shut, but dangles freely. Is this by design, or a flaw on my grip? Am I missing something to lock it down? It doesn't cause any issues for me, just slightly annoying. Thanks for any responses!
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- battery grip
- power boost grip
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Hey guys, So, I used the XH-1 to shoot a short film last year and it felt just right for a low budget film, that is shot in natural light, little time and only a tripod for stabilization. Really was drawn to the ETERNA, film simulation that was said to be ideal for shooting movies. I found the low contrast it provided - allowed more flexibility in post, i color corrected in Premiere which has its own library of film stocks to apply. But, I will enjoyed the look it provided - especially given it's a DSLR and not a camcorder. With that, you still face the highlights being blown out when you are shooting alongside a window. But, that can be sort of fixed in post. In summation, I'd say this could be a long term example of what can work on low budget projects. p.s. really liked the lens as well - it allowed me to of course maintain focus on my actors even when I was in really tight/close settings. any thoughts or comments, please let me know - i am very open to feedback
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- fuji xh1
- short film
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Hi, I'm creating this open thread to everyone who'd like to share pictures showing some strobe usage on their x-system. Here's my first contribution, with a sample from a editorial photography photoshoot for a sponsored bodybuilder who participated on FIBO 2015, in Germany. Simple setup, with 2x YN560III triggered from a YN560TX mounted on my X100S (yes, the 100S can also be helpful in situations like these, with the "leaf shutter" technology - and yes, it's a great camera for all pruposes, not necessarily directed for street photography). I used a high shutter speed to kill as much as i can the ambient light and also to give to the model some structure with very hard transitions between shadows and lit areas. The main light was fired from a 80cm silver umbrella (slightly folded) to ensure the light beam was slightly narrow and perfectly diffused, and the second light was placed in the top of the stairs, not only for composition, but also to give some rim light on him. Share your pictures, discuss techniques and gear and happy shootings X100S | ISO200 | 23mm | f5.6 | 1/1000
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Hey folks, First post here. Received the X-T1 about a week ago and wanted to share my first impressions. www.devinjamesoncreative.com/posts/2015/6/17/fuji-x-t1-first-impressions Will post a full review within the next couple weeks. Take care! -Devin
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Here's a comparison test, sorry, written in hungarian but the pictures has not language, check out (my blog but the author is my friend, FEDman)
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Hi guys. Can U tell how good in fact is this lens? Is it worth the money? If it not depends on focal lenght, the xf23 is really this better, with the price almost twice as high?
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https://insigniachiaki.wordpress.com/2016/01/19/x-gene-a-love-and-hate-story-fujifilm-x-pro1-x-t1/ Hi! I would just to like you guys to know that I have created a blog and written my impressions of the X-T1 and X-Pro1 in a post there. I have shot Fuji for a year now, more or less. It would be great to have some feedbacks! Thanks!
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Post great street photos of you for people to watch and exchange. Street photos anywhere in the world !
- 51 replies
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- fujiflim
- streetphotography
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