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Showing results for tags 'focus'.
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My camera (X-S20) keeps making a clicking constant noise from the focusing (the focus goes in and out consistently) - when the camera is turned OFF. I've tried several lenses (35mm f/1.4, 23mm f/2, 18mm f/2, 18-55mm zoom) and they all seem to have the constant focus noise issue/movement when the camera is OFF (just with varying degrees of loudness) which makes me think there's an issue with the camera body or connection. The camera and lens' firmware are all up-to-date (camera body firmware updated via Fuji app a month or so ago), removing the battery seems to make the issue stop (although this isn't the solution), and the constant clicking noise only happens when the camera is OFF (when the camera is ON there's no issue). Has anyone run into this issue? Anyone know which this happens? Ideas for a potential fix? -
Hi! I recently bought a second hand X-T3 and for some reason the focus check is not working (on any lens but the 16 f1.4). I do own another X-T3 and have used the same backup with the same settings, but for some reason in the new one it doesn't want to work. Has anyone experience something similar? It's pretty annoying cause I shoot a lot with manual lenses and it a must-have feature for me. Thanks a lot
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X-S20: Contrast changes during focusing (AF-C & AF-S)
deos posted a topic in Fuji X-S10 / Fuji X-S20
Good morning dear Fuji community, I am new to Fuji with the X-S20 and am just stumbling across this very annoying behavior of the camera: When I press the shutter button halfway or use the "AF ON" button, the contrast of the image (viewfinder and display alike) increases until the shutter is released. In AF-C mode, this is extremely annoying, as the contrast then remains at this high contrast value for the period of focusing until the photo is taken. The final image is not affected. (With AF-S this also happens, but switches back to the set exposure as soon as focus is found, so it doesn't really bother). I have tried through various settings. However, I can't find anything to affect this behavior when focusing. Unfortunately, I can't find a topic already created for this in the forum here either. Can I set the camera so that the contrast is always identical to the image that the camera otherwise shows me, even when focusing? Thanks in advance and have a nice weekend!
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Hello. I've recently noticed that when i half press the shutter to focus on my x100v, the screen flickers until acquiring focus. It mostly occur between f 2.2-3.2 in AF-S mode, in dark indoor enviorments. Outside in daylight it doesn't manifest. Also, of i put the camera in Manual or AF-C the 'flicker' goes away..it only affects AF-S mode. It does not affect the quality of the photos or the exposure or anything else, it's just a visual thing Firmware version 2.12 (latest). Video: https://streamable.com/afxgwb https://streamable.com/odcu40 I've seen this issue addressed on other x system cameras where the LCD/evf was going bright but it doesn't look the same on my camera. Mine is darkening the LCD/evf instead of brighteening for a fraction of a second and it kinda makes no sense. It's like the exposure drop a couple of stops for a fraction of a second. Looking at the lens while focusing it opens completly wide and closes back to the set apperture really fast while half pressing the shutter...so it should do exactly the opposite, bumping the exposure, not dropping it. When I switch aperture to f4 or above, that dark-bright flicker disappear 🤔 really weird stuff. If this is not a normal behaviour I suspect it to be firmware related because I didn't noticed this before the 2.12 version..or it was there from the start but didn't notice as i mostly shoot over f 5.6. Does anyone encounter the same on their x100v or any other fuji camera or can test it with their x100v in the same conditions? Dark room/dim light, f 2.2-3.2, AF-S mode? Does anyone know why is this happening? Any tip or solution that can make this 'issue' go away will be really appreciated! Thanks! -
Hi, I’m having some trouble with getting the green focus square to show. I’ve checked the obvious things like ‘AF point display’ is on and I’m using ‘zone’ focus mode. I’ve tried both AF-C and AF-S. I’ve even tried resetting all shooting settings. I’d really like to see the green square to know exactly what the camera is focusing on. Does anyone have any suggestions? I’m using an X-T3 with the 16-55.
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For stills, I'm using backbutton focus. And I'm able to select the focus point and track it in continuous focus. Works great. But in video mode, I can't find a way to track an object - only a face using face detect. The rear touch screen doesn't seem to work this way. When I select a point, it behaves as single focus, even when the camera is set to continuous focus. Also, I'm often using the camera on a gimbal and need to rely on the rear screen for setting the focus point. To date, I've mainly had to use the X-T4 in manual mode for video which is disappointing. Am I missing something? -
I'm shooting video with X-T4 on a gimbal, in continuous mode with face detect on. If I try to change the focus point using the rear touch screen (pressing top right corner of screen until it gets to "AF", and then click on the desired focus point on the screen...it will refocus on that area, but only once. As if it was switched to single focus mode. The manual however, seems to indicate that the camera should remain in continuous focus mode and track that subject, which it doesn't. I would like be able to click on a point using the rear screen and have the camera track in continuous focus. Is this even possible? Not clear in the manual. tks.
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How do I set my xt20 so I can hold it halfway and adjust the focus? Also, the shutter is so sensitive that I end up taking pictures when I turn the camera on and off. Am I doing something wrong in my settings? thanks mary
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Has anyone experienced problems with GFX50 automated focus bracketing since the last firmware update? I am on 4.20 and I can't get it to take more than one frame. It still works on manual with no problem. I have drive set to focus bracketing, electronic shutter and do the complete procedure of setting focus at A then B. I've tried it by then pressing the back button and also without. I've tried on manual focus and auto single. I've tried with several lenses and I have also tried resetting to factory default. Thoughts? Is it possible/ advisable to revert to the previous firmware to test that as the cause?
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I am using a X-E1 camera with a vintage Canon FD 50mm F1.8 lens. When I take an image the result is always soft, even though the viewfinder or screen show a very sharp image, however as soon as I press the shutter pre-view the image is soft, and when I take the photograph, the result is soft - like it is very slightly out of focus. I have used this with focus peaking and everything looks sharp. Am I correct in assuming that images seen on the screen when focusing is via the lens? is it the lens? or my setting or my manual focusing ability. some help will be useful, TIA. -
I'm new to the Fuji system and I would like to know if it's possible to set a focus zone and tell the camera to "only search for faces in that specific area", instead of hunting everywhere in the image and end up focusing on some passer-by in the background? Also, when face/eye detection isn't hitting the right target, what's the quickest way to manually toggle out of it? I tried moving my focus point with the joystick but the camera would fight me and keep picking up faces in the areas I don't want. Does anyone have a solution with this? I'm using an X-T30.
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From the album: Aircraft
British heavy bomber rear gunner. Museum display. XT-3 focus stacking feature.© Paul Broadbent
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Hello everyone, First post on this forum so let me introduce myself : Nicolas, fuji x100 user when this camera was released, sold it and regret it, fuji x100f user for a month. I would like to report an odd behavior which is supposed to be fixed in the latest firmware as per Fuji detailed report here https://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/x100f/history.html 0/ my fuji X100F is running the latest firmware (2.11) 1/ In manual focus mode: 2/ Whether: I use the AEL/AFL button to acquire focus Or use the front ring to manually focus (the area in focus is highlighted with the focus peak option so I know precisely what is in focus) 3/ AND focusing at short distance (less than 50 cm) 4/ AND using any aperture smaller than f/2.0 (the smallest the aperture, the biggest lens moves: see point 5/ below) 5/ When I press the shutter button, the lens slightly moves (obvious move) before the picture is acquired, thus ruining what is in focus. I have repeated the same process in AF/S and everything works fine. Anyone experienced this behavior? Do you know if the fuji website has a link to submit incident request? Thanks for reading ! Nicolas -
Anyone having/had problems with factory standard settings, brand new x-t3 with kit 18-55 lens and focus hunting? I cant find anything online about this so assumed it was me...until I showed Fuji. Lens fully zoomed in on a parking lot, no moving cars, or trees, shot in daylight, plenty to focus on (IE not a white wall), using factory set focus settings straight after a reset of camera, OIS on or off made no difference, ISO auto, shutter @ 1/60, aperture manual, 4k30, shot handheld, AF-C, UV filter on lens, focus point was central in frame (nothing moving) and about 20 meters away and nothing in between camera lens and focus point (trees). To try and find out what was causing the problem I set the aperture to f20 = approx 2 second hunting frequency (from completely blurry to sharp, IE not a small hunt, its like it moves from extreme to extreme). As I reduce the aperture towards f16, frequency increases to say 0.5 seconds and then at f10 its not possible to see on the camera screen that there is hunting. My test seems to show its aperture & zoom related, regardless, I cant accept that this is ok. Above video in question was shot at the Fuji HO in South Africa to demonstrate the problem to Fuji so I don't have the video at the moment because I sent the camera in due to this hunting problem. They still don't know what the problem might be so I thought I would reach out and see if anyone can reproduce my problem so I can help Fuji help me solve my problem. I have had a consistent problem with focus on the camera with a hit rate of probably 60%, video & photo. Even when the camera locks focus in AF-S mode, stationary scene, eye focus mode on and face mode on, photo mode, the camera will miss the shot and focus on the rear of the head region while it tells me its focused on the eye when clicking the rear dial in to show the focus point. Any insight would be appreciate!
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Hi all, I’m new to the forum. I’ve been using my x-t20 for a year now and I am really happy about its capabilities! There is just one little thing that totally annoys me every single time I use this camera. While using the EVF, my nose moves around the focus point, so damn annoying! I can’t find a way to change this, because I rather use the back buttons to move it around. Please please help me out on this one? Looking forward to your replies!
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Hello Everyone, I’m trying to use the FujiFilm phone app: CAM REMOTE with my X100F and while it works well for taking pictures, I am having difficulty with using it for video, which I would really like to do. While I can do a single focus, when taking pictures, by tapping the screen where I would like to focus, then taking the picture, this does not work in the video mode. In video mode, it seems the only option is for a continuous focus mode where it is always searching for focus — seems like it is looking for movement and focusing on that. Is there are a way to change it so that I can tap on my phone screen and set a single focus point and NOT have it continuously searching for focus (it makes quite a bit of noise). Any other apps (for iPhone or Mac) or advice on recording video (being able to control focus and start a video) remotely using the x100f, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone! -
Hello all, new member here . Last Saturday i went to do some astrophotos with my xt20 and my new 56 1.2. I would like to know if someone else have try to do some AP with this lens becouse i run in some issues with the focus. My idea was to use the intervalometer to take multiple shoots to stack the photos in post (typical for AP) so i tried to use manual focus but the focus by wire is not so trustworthy in this situations...it jumped a lot between small stars (close to focus) and big ones (far from it). In the end set to manual, back button focus and that seemed to work for bright stars...the problem was that after the first pic, all the others from the set were out of focus! even if the focus was set to manual it seemed to move it a bit, which for stars and 1.2 is terrible!! does anyone run to the same issue?? or know what would be the best strategy to do AP with this lens?? I have also the roki 85 1.4 and comparing pics (the ones in focus) im really happy with the results of the 56...but focusing the 85 it way easier!! If anyone can help me would be helpful!!! sorry about my english! Cheers from Argentina!
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Hi, guys! Just bought the camera. Love it! Relatively new to digital photography - lots of things to learn. I need to shoot the sculpture I created. Time sensitive. Can't figure out how to make all in focus shot. Object is flat disk with 1m/3ft diameter. Tried different setting, but it didn't work out(((((. Please, advice!!! Greatly appreciate!!! Kai
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56f1.2 occasionally makes humming sound after acquiring focus
Mervyn posted a topic in Fuji X Lenses
I recently reacquired the Fuji 56f1.2. It's a fantastic lens and I should never have sold it. However, my new copy of the 56 occasionally makes a humming sound that persists after acquiring focus in AF-S mode. I don't recall my old 56 ever doing this on my X-T2 so now I'm slightly concerned. For the rest there doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. At about one in a 20 shots, especially at minimum range (though I've also had it happen at infinity), the auto-focus motor keeps humming after acquiring focus. Sometimes it stops after a few seconds, but I've also had occasions where it wouldn't stop until I'd press the focus button again or switch off the camera. It happens in AF-S mode. My question is: do other people with the 56 experience this occasional after-focus hum as well, or could it be that I got a bad copy? And my second question is; could it possibly damage or shorten the lifespan of the lens when the autofocus motor keeps running after acquiring focus? I would hate to have the lens work for two years and then break just after the warranty has expired. And my last question: would you keep it and try your luck, or would you return it to the shop and exchange it for another copy? Edit: Problem solved, see my post below. -
My X-T2 doesn´t switch to release priority anymore. It is stuck in focus priority even though release priority is selected. The latest firmware is installed (also on the lens(es)) It happens in all focus modes and with different lenses. I remember that it worked once to switch between the two modes. Unfortunately I only now realized that it doesn´t switch anymore thus I cannot determine if a FW update or whatever created this problem... Anyone else with the same problem? I only find threads on the internet without any answers. I also tried to get an answer from Fujifilm support, but they haven´t replied.
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I purchased my X-T2 in January and instantly fell in love. One of my favorite features was its use of buttons and dials along the camera for quickly changing settings rather than going through the menus. Along with the physical features of the camera I was also blown away by the auto focus Fujifilm was able to develop for this amazing camera. I use AF almost exclusively and with that I was using the Focus Lever (Focus Stick) quite often as well. After a few months with the X-T2 I noticed an issue with my Focus Stick, it would no longer go in the upward or up-diagonal directions. I kept using the camera for events and shoots I needed it for, working around the limitations I'd found and hoped that with the software updates to come my problem would be fixed. After downloading both updates it seems my issue is still present. I've searched a few times to see if anyone else has had this issue but haven't found an answer and instead was met with frustration. I'm hoping someone here can help me as Fujifilms website has also been of no help to me.
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Coming from the Ricoh world where zone focusing is completely another story thanks to the snap mode, I had to dig into the manual and all the options of the X100F in order to become friend with it. I wanted to share ! https://blog.laurencebichon.com/zone-focus-with-the-fuji-x100f/ Laurence -
the XT-2 Autofocus seems to have severe issues with certain fine structures. Just spent many frustrating hours: I was actually testing lenses on what i thought makes a perfect object: fine twigs against the sky. Set it on a tripod, with the 10-24. The AF is very inaccurate or erratic, at 24 mm i get many blurry images. Same with the super sharp 35/f2, but smaller differences. (No problems with the 56, thats perfect). Also tested it on the X-T1, kind of the same issues. I might have it repaired/exchanged, and HOPE there's a fix. I'm wondering if maybe the AF System can not "see" fine structures, like fine branches. But it's high contrast against the sky (the rather poor AF on my old Canon 5D2 and 6D never had problems like this). That would mean serious problems with landscape photography...i mean, it's just a usual object. Nothing extreme or difficult for AF. Attached a 100% crop: image to the right is sharp, shot right after the blurry one. I got tons of that erratic sharpness. New firmware, all 135 AF points activated. Single point focus. Looking forward to your opinions/experiences...thanks!
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Hi there, First of all, many thanks for your great work. I really appreciate this forum. Two weeks ago my XF23mmF1.4 arrived and I was so happy to test it. I already own an XF35mmF1.4 and a XF16-55mmF2.8WR and I really would like to add this focal length to my lenses, since I always loved shooting at 23mm (35mm eq.) in the past. I was suddenly disappointed by the lens. Since the first shot it produced images that are blurred and in some way soft. Obviously, I know that I cannot expect the best at f/1.4, and I also know that the compare with the XF35mm is not fair. With all this background of knowledge, however, results are not possible given the cost and the buzz that surround this lens. I have attached to sample. The first one is shot both at f/2.8 on the XF23mm and on the XF16-55 at 23mm zoom level. As you may see with your eyes even the zoom lens is worst and at the maximum aperture it produce a better quality image without blur and softness. In the second example I just shooted at f2 on the XF23mm and at f2.8 on the XF50-140mm in a sunny day without any "critical condition". Even in this case, the XF23mm output is blurred without any sharp. I returned the lens to FUJIFILM asking for a replacement or a complete refund. I am absolutely disappointed by this experience. All comments are welcome.
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THIS IS A COPY OF AN EMAIL I HAVE SENT TO FUJI. IF ANY OF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS, I'D LOVE TO HEAR THEM! I purchased a new XT10 (s/n 67L03084) along with 2 kit lenses in November of this year. The 16-50 lens s/n is 62H09098. The s/n of the 50-230 lens is 62H00965. I have also booked a holiday to the Arctic Circle with the sole intention of shooting the Northern Lights. Last night was clear so I took the camera out to try some star pics to see how it performed. I know that autofocus is unlikely to work under such conditions, so I set the camera to manual focus and set it at the extreme end of its scale, i.e. infinity. The resultant pictures were all blurred. I then experimented and found that infinity is in focus when the camera suggests there’s still some way to go. I have repeated this experiment during daylight and it seems the 16-50 kit lens doesn’t focus on infinity when it’s set to infinity. When I am photographing the Northern Lights, the temperature will be in the region of minus 20 degrees and it is extremely unlikely that I will be able to set the focus in such conditions using trial and error (actually, having spent a fair amount of money on said camera, why should I have to use trial and error?). Furthermore, if it’s just stars, there will be insufficient light for me to manually focus anyway, so I could be out in the freezing cold taking blurred pictures and I’ll only find that out when I upload them to a computer once inside the hotel. So, my questions are: 1. Am I doing something wrong? 2. If not, what is the next step? I need the camera to take pictures of the Northern Lights and it looks like it may not be up to the job. Attached are four files; 2 taken with the focus set on infinity (both blurred) and the other 2 with me manually focussing and ignoring infinity.
