Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'X-T2'.
-
Setting my X-T2 for overhead shots, I thought I could use the App to control the camera. But with the manual focus switched in, it was still hunting. Has anyone else had experience with this, is there a work around, or should I buy the Adobe tethering Pro plugin and try to control the camera via that?? Frustrating
-
I took a series of RAW night shots using X-T2, when doing the post processing using Star StaX the end result had an odd pattern. I used Lightroom to do the initial process, saved as full-res jpegs, then ran them through the Star StaX app. The result looked great at first look then discovered this odd vortex looking pattern. It seems to be in the same location in all of the star trail photos that I processed. I've done some research but don't seem to find much information. The only thing that I have found was that it was caused by the lens correction done in Lightroom, however, in Lightroom with my X-T2 the lens correction says "built-in Lens profile applied" and there is no way to get rid of the lens profile. Is this the cause? Can anything be done to get around this problem?
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
- X-T2
- star trails
- (and 5 more)
-
Hi all! Long time reader and occassional poster here looking for help. I have the X-T2 combined with the 23mm f1.4, and I've just noticed this very small quirk. In full manual mode (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) with exposure preview on, moving the aperture between f1.4 and f1.6 results in no change in the live view exposure, even though I can see the meter change by 1/3 a stop, and the final images from each show a difference. When I move the aperture to A in a way that forces a value of f1.4, I can see that the preview is brighter than when I set it to f1.4, which tells me f1.4 is incorrectly showing me the exposure for f1.6, and not the other way around. Other 1/3-stop transitions in the entire range properly show a change in the exposure preview, as I would expect. Has anyone else noticed this? I can't tell whether it's for this particular combo only, since the X-T2 is my only ILC body and the 23mm is my only f1.4 lens. Thanks in advance!
-
As the title says, I've noticed that my Battery Grip is not tightening as firmly to my XT-2 as initially. I noticed that there is some play in the Lock Screw that goes into the X-T2's collar mount. I haven't noticed any performance issues, but I use the grip when it's on a tripod and want to eliminate any vibration issues when doing Long Exposures. Has anyone else experienced this issue and if so was there a fix for it?
-
Hi Fuji users, I've been having an issue with my X-T2 for about 6 months now. A week after purchasing the camera brand new, the speaker had stopped working. No AF sounds, ES sounds, or sound from video playback. Yesterday, the sound came back for one minute for the first time in 6 months, but it went back to no sound quickly after. I've turned the sound settings on and off, updated to latest firmware, and still no success. The camera has not taken any damage that would cause this issue. Does anyone have suggestions or advice to get sound working again? I really don't want to have the camera serviced especially since I'm in India with warranty for Japan. Thanks!
-
I took my X-T2 out during my lunch break for some canids in Spitalfields Market, London. I shot in ACROS film simulation mode. http://www.mostly.photos/blog/2017/12/2/fuji-x-t2-acros-spitalfields-market
-
Well my friends I went and done it! Some of you guys who have been here a while may recall my daughter "borrowed" my X-T1 and my "don't leave home without it lens" the Fuji 18-55. For the last several months I've been photographing using my primes only -- the fabulous 16 f1.4, the 23 1.4, 35 1.4, and 60 2.4 plus the 55-200 zoom. And I loved doing that. I've truly enjoyed making images as I have to be slower, and more thoughtful in the process plus, let's face reality, the primes will always beat a zoom with regards to sharpness, and micro-contrast among other things. However, the 18-55 is a lens I cannot live without! I love it. There I said it. If I loved it any more I'd have to name it and provide it it's own ss number for tax purposes. I do plan on continuing to use primes for most of my images as I really enjoyed using them and have weened myself off the zoom, but I will feel much better knowing my 18-55 is back in my bag just in case I need it! To be completely honest: I looked at the 16-55 2.8. Many of you who "know me" know that I've said I would never purchase this lens, and it's brother the 50-140 2.8 due to 1) the weight and 2) price. I looked at the 16-55 2.8, i thought about it, but I just couldn't bring myself to purchase this heavy, and expensive lens when for a quarter of the price my 18-55 works wonders, is super tack sharp, and has provided me with YEARS of use -- my original 18-55 was the kit lens that came on my Fuji X-E1 I purchased back in February 2013! This image below is one of over 16,000 images I have taken in various locations ranging from Key West, to Prince Edward Island in Northern Canada between mid-July, and early November. I believe I "lost" the 18-55 to my daughter when I returned from the Keys and was prepping to head north -- this image was in fact taken with the 18-55 lens. So, I'm now whole again and I couldn't be happier knowing it's there in case I need it. PS: Here in the Classifieds I'm offering for sale my Zeiss/Touit 12mm F2.8 lens. Check it out if you are in the market for a wide-angle for your Fuji!
-
Hi all, I'm new both to the Fuji X cameras (but not Fuji film/chrome!) and after 2 days of reading, setting up, and doing field tests, am at the point of managing & viewing image files. I have hit 3 roadblocks which I don't see directly addressed via online search or forum search (so far, anyway). Any advice/suggestions appreciated, and I know full well everyone's work flow, software/hardware, and personal context vary widely. Apologies for greedily asking 3 questions, hoping one or more yields something useful for my situation. Thank you in advance. #1 - Exif/file info with reference to film simulation. (Note I've not yet downloaded the raw converter, and not sure which/how will give me the best and easiest tools and experience). So... I went out to take my "first roll" of images, shooting in both .jpeg and raw, mostly stills plus a few 4K vid clips, and emulating my beloved Velvia in some (fall foliage time here) while trying out some of the other film types. The thing is, when I downloaded - to a Mac, w/ iPhotos/Photos and Photoshop - I had no way to tell which film type was on each image, among shots I took several of to compare the results side by side. Problem #1: Neither the Mac file info nor Photoshop .exif info provides "Provia" or "Velvia" or whatever label, leaving me the arduous task of going to the camera and copying that info by hand into the image notes or filename. I see many reviews and how-to's with many photos, each listing the film emulation used. Is there anything I've missed in looking for the (.jpeg) setting? Any tips? Thanks. #2 - Raw - I've read a bunch and upgraded Photoshop to be able to read and work with the .raf files. HOWEVER, again maybe specific to my chosen tools (usually iPhoto for viewing and Photoshop/Elements for editing/post), but my issue here is lack of thumbnail display when looking through or importing .raf files. I see only the generic thumbnail, not an image, rendering the previews useless in knowing what's there, without referring back to the camera or finding the same file in .jpeg if I have it. Is there some fix for this either within Photoshop or via some Fuji software? #3 - GPS/Geotagging - Probably my biggest disappointment compared with what else is "out there", and compared against both my iPhone (which geotags and maps) or my Pentax camera which does it too. Automatically. Again, I read many posts, reviews, and manuals (like a good scientist), but while I get the idea of what's possible, still I'm not pleased with the "workaround". Obviously it wasn't a deal-breaker in choosing this wonderful camera (X-T2) but it would be real nice to automatically tag with location and/or GPS coordinates. I understand you need a GPS receiver to get this, so no firmware update is going to help, but.... I find the option to use a phone device and tether, constantly remembering to manually change the camera setting with each new location, let's say, cumbersome. (A pain!) Sometime the phone is useless, with no wifi or satellite nearby, but that's pretty rare for GPS. Anyway, I've read some suggestions (along the line of being sure to change the location manually with each new place, tethered to a phone with GPS/geotagging) and am wondering - though I've mostly resigned to forgetting about native, or easy, geotagging with this camera .... Any secret techniques for rather easily geotagging at least key places on a journey? Right now, though I'm not sure I'll have phone or wi-fi near me where I'm headed, one consideration is taking a phone photo at every camera session, just to get the coordinates and/or geographic tag. If that's all I can do really, I'd be interested in knowing whether I'd be able to add the GPS info from phone photo, manually or in bulk, AFTER the fact, when I return home or to base, or whatever. Any hints/advice appreciated. Those are my big-3 remaining questions before I venture out with this camera as my new main camera (replacing much bigger/heavier gear). My first forum query, and again, apologies for the length and breadth of my inquiry. Thinking this "the place" to ask among actual users of all stripes. Thanks! -
I recently visited Northumberland in the North East of the UK. I took the Fuji X-T2 with 18-135mm and 10-24mm to the beach at dawn. http://www.mostly.photos/blog/2017/10/7/fuji-x-t2-dunstanburgh-castle http://www.mostly.photos/blog/2017/10/7/fuji-x-t2-dunstanburgh-castle-5af5a
- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Dawn
- Bracketing
- (and 8 more)
-
I recently visited Nothumberland in the North East of the United Kingdom. The Northumberland Coast is beautiful and I have started to pull together some brief blog posts with some of the images from the trip as well as brief guides to locations. http://www.mostly.photos/blog/2017/9/30/fuji-x-t2-northumberland-coast
- 1 reply
-
- 2
-
-
- Northumberland
- coast
- (and 4 more)
-
Hello everybody! I would like to show you some of my first landscape photos with the X-T2 from my trip to Iceland some weeks ago. Before I changed to a mirrorless system camera I had a Canon EOS 6D before. I have to say going back to APS-C was a hard decision for me, I've never had any problems with the image quality of the 6D even Canon build not the best sensors at the moment, but as a travel camera and in some other situations I wasn't that happy anymore with it. I used parallel to it an X100T which I loved, but I needed a system with interchangable lenses. I had so much fun with the little Fuji and read so many positive reviews about the newer X-Trans III sensor that I decided to sell the Canon and all my lenses to buy an X-T2. With my, at the moment, four primes and the great body I had never so much fun before while photographing. Iceland was a great test for the system and I'm looking forward to the next holidays with it. But now enough words and time for some photos of the trip (most with my girlfriend on it) - hope you like it! Skaftafellsjökull #1 / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Búðakirkja / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Diamond Beach / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Selfoss / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Thakgil / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Thakgil #2 / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Brunnhorn / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke Stokksnes / Iceland by Sebastian Warneke
- 10 replies
-
- 10
-
-
Hi all, X-T2 with 23f2 lens at f8. Trying out the attach photos thing. Took this while section hiking in NH from Hanover to Mt Lincoln in July. RickH Instagram
-
My X-T2 doesn´t switch to release priority anymore. It is stuck in focus priority even though release priority is selected. The latest firmware is installed (also on the lens(es)) It happens in all focus modes and with different lenses. I remember that it worked once to switch between the two modes. Unfortunately I only now realized that it doesn´t switch anymore thus I cannot determine if a FW update or whatever created this problem... Anyone else with the same problem? I only find threads on the internet without any answers. I also tried to get an answer from Fujifilm support, but they haven´t replied.
-
Hi there.Here some shots from last month's trip to Venice DSCF7621 DSCF7622 DSCF7696 DSCF7715 DSCF7744 by V G, on Flickr DSCF7789 DSCF7806 DSCF7833 DSCF7849 DSCF 8012
-
The 55-200 is my least thought of lens. Sitting in the bottom of my bag of lenses I really only bring it out when I go to the mortocross track. There I basically beat the crap out of it, letting it get dusty, wet, using my sleeve to wipe of the dust... and everytime I walk away amazed at the quality of the images! Mind you, in insufficient light, it's another story but when light isn't a problem this lens is fantastic, especially at the price! Here are some pics of a Red Bull Rocks and Logs event this weekend. Ideally, you want to have the rider coming at you but unfortunately due to the limited access for spectators we were unable to see them coming for the good parts!
-
Hello Everyone, I am having a bit of a dilemma that I was hoping the good people here could help me out with. I currently have an X-T1 along with the following lenses: 18–135, 55-200 and 35mm f2. I just had my first kid three months ago and am thoroughly enjoying capturing him. I am however having a hard time getting good (focused) shots as he is starting to move a lot. I'm mostly shooting in the zoned AF mode with either single or continuous focus with the drive mode set to both single and high speed burst. ISO is set to auto. With the 18–135 there are hardly any keepers as it is a pretty slow lens. I get more keepers with the 35 but feel very limited with the focal length. So here is what I have been debating: Get the 23mm f2 - I loved the focal length when I had borrowed the X-100t Get the 16-55 - Nice range thats good for street and landscape and covers the 23mm focal length at a decent speed Get 90mm f2 - Good fast portrait lens Get a used X-100t - I get the focal length I want and an additional camera that I can take with me without having to worry about lenses now that I need to travel light (baby stuff) Get the X-T2 - Faster focusing, better low-light, new processor I am only a hobbyist who is looking to the experts out there to help me figure this out. Please be kind and helpful. Thanks in advance. -
I recently had the opportunity to visit a remote South facing beach in Wales, UK - I thought I'd try and capture the Milky Way with my X-T2 and 16mm f1.4 I wrote a brief article with further images and information on how I took the shot
-
I recently added the excellent Fuji 23mm f2 to my collection of Fuji Primes. I have put some quick shots taken using the X-T2 and ACROS simulation on my blog... (Click Bait ) Chris
-
First, a comparison between X-Transformer's rendering, and straight Lightroom. Settings are exactly the same between the two images. I've always struggled with the weird rendering of detail that I get with my RAF files in Lightroom. I've tried a few different processors to get my fine detail, but they either don't do much to solve the problem (Capture1) or are incredibly cumbersome to use (Photo Ninja) or are not available to me on Windows (Iridient) I recently found X-Transformer (By Iridient) and found that it works more or less perfectly, and lets me keep my Lightroom workflow, so I thought I would share my process for anyone else interested or struggling with the same issues I was. THE METHOD I'm on Windows 10, using Lightroom CC I went and got X-Transformer by Iridient I then set it up to work as a plugin for Lightroom CC Then, in Lightroom, once you find the files you want to work with and get your detail out of, you just choose to edit them in X-Transformer And then put in these settings which strip out the horrible noise reduction and sharpening, and demosaic the data much better than Lightroom. Then, once it's done running through X-Transformer, your image is back in Lightroom as a TIFF that you can treat exactly like your RAF files, except it's got fine detail in it. It's the least cumbersome method I've found so far that gets really really good detail out of your shots, without forcing you to learn a crazy new half-broken editing software. The other program I found that gets this level of detail is Photo Ninja, but it is really difficult to work with, and feels almost like an Alpha for the first version of Lightroom. I don't advise it. Many photographers won't care about the improvement, and that's fine. Fine detail doesn't make or break a photo if the rest of the content/light/processing is good. But for those that want their full 24 megapixels worth of data, this is a great solution without having to give up Lightroom. Disclaimer: I haven't used the brand new CaptureOne which supposedly does very well with RAF files. Links to two full res comparison photos -
From my recent trip to Lisbon with the X-T2 & 10-24 /16-55 DSCF7226-2 DSCF6984 DSCF7039 DSCF6732 DSCF6721
-
Toronto, Ontario Fuji X-T2 + XF10-24 Night Lights by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Night Trains by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Toronto Financial District by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
-
I shot the live show with Old Dominion and Kira Isabella on Friday night, these are with the X-T2 + XF50-140, quite impressed myself after switching from Canon 5D3 + L-Glass. "Said Nobody Ever" by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
-
I shot the live show with Old Dominion and Kira Isabella on Friday night, these are with the X-T2 + XF50-140, quite impressed myself after switching from Canon 5D3 + L-Glass. "Said Nobody Ever" by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Kira Isabella by Matthew Perry, on Flickr Old Dominion by Matthew Perry, on Flickr
-
My powerful workstation laptop (Lenovo Thinkpad W540) with an i7 processor and 32 gigs of RAM on W10 struggles HARD with my RAF files from my X-T2. Every adjustment lags, and even scrolling down my photos in the Library module is choppy. Hard quick adjustments like spot healing skin or masking adjustments takes multiple seconds per click to see my adjustment show up on the preview, no matter what I do. I've got a 40GB cache, I've turned GPU processing on, and back off, to see if it makes a difference (it doesn't) and nothing I've done seems to make any difference. My drive has 40% free space, I only have about 6000 photos in my catalog, and I back-up and Optimize regularly. In hunting for solutions, I found someone suggesting that I could import all of my photos to a fast external drive, render Smart Previews, then disconnect the drive, and work exclusively with the smart previews, which are supposedly smaller, lighter, and faster to work with, and then when I'm done, re-connect the drive, apply the changes, and export/work in Photoshop from there. Wondering if anyone has any better tips for speeding up Lightroom when working with RAF files, or if anyone has tried the Smart Preview method described above to tell me whether it provides any advantages?
-
hi, It seems that my new XT2 camera does not recognize the flash ef-X8 I tried all the suggestions in the forum: turn off the exposure preh hutter is manuals not in silent mode can not change the "off" to "TTL" What shell i Do?
