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  1. Hi All ! This is a classic here during the Winter Carnaval, this sport is very specific to the St-Lawrence River and it's history, I don't think there is any other place where you can see something like it. This really active and dynamic sport is very demanding for the athletes, in this race the pro class will do a total of 15 km, crossing the river three time. During the winter there is a total of 7 races along the St-Lawrence River, and lucky me, two of them are in my home town, Quebec City. Not much ice on the river this year made it easy and fast for the "canoteurs", but it was less spectacular for us the spectators and photographers. Never the less it was a great opportunity for some good action shot. Here's a link to the Wikipedia article about the sport: Ice canoeing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia I used mostly my X-T1 with the Xf50-140mm + XF1.4 TC and a second body, my good old X-E1, paired with the XF16-55 for close shoot. I was standing right by one of the three buoys delimiting the race course, so it was easy to get some shots of the canoes coming toward me. The Flickr Album: Course CMQ 2016 Thanks for looking ! Gilles My Flickr: GilBarib The Fuji-X Sport and Action group on Flickr: Fuji-X Sport and Action Course CMQ 2016 #3 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Course CMQ 2016 #6 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Course CMQ 2016 #26 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr Course CMQ 2016 #8 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr
  2. I'm a Canon shooter, but I'm looking to invest in a smaller, "every-day" camera. I've picked the X-T1 and would like some recommendations on lenses from people who have used them. I'm specifically looking for quality and sharpness and versatility. I'm curious if anybody would recommend other lenses over the one's I've picked: Primes: XF 14mm f/2.8 R (for landscapes, real estate interiors) XF 27mm f/2.8 (love the small size, For general walk-around, street photography) XF 56mm f/1.2 R (for portraits and street photography) Zooms: XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS (comfort zone, low price, small footprint. Probably my go-to lens everyday lens) XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR (I love my long zooms for festivals, concerts, portraits, etc..). Need to have one in my kit. I currently shoot with a 5D Mark III with a 24-70 f/2.8 and a 70-300 f/4-5.6. I love my Canon gear, but it's too big and heavy to use for casual/daily use. I currently shoot mostly portraits and events (conventions, festivals and retail events) but am starting to get into real estate as well.
  3. I recently joined Fuji X Forum for the following excellent and worthwhile reasons To checkout that Complete Overview of Lenses that was posted by quincy. To find out your views concerning the processing of Fuji X images, what do people use - Iridient or Adobe Camera Raw or something else, from reports I have seen I would go for Iridient, but I no longer have Macs, so what is good? To find out if it is worthwhile waiting for the X-T2. I had an X-T1 it had a fault, my dealer returned my money as opposed to sending it back to Fuji. I still have a 55-200mm lens, the large hand grip, battery, remote control, case, stuff etc.. It took me three months to settle on X-T1 and it still tops my list, so waiting is OK but for how long...
  4. Hi, I have a vello wireless remote trigger that I used on my canon without issue. It connects via the mic input. From what I have found online is that it should work without issue on the X-T1 because it connects via the mic input. I am having issues though. It sometimes fires, and sometimes doesn't. It will just start snapping pictures when I plug it in, if in bulb mode, it just randomly starts taking a picture and if I push the remote button to stop it won't but it will if I push the shutter button on the camera. It will also just stop taking a long exposure picture without me touching anything. Various combinations of things seem to happen of the above mentioned problem at any given time. I thought it maybe the batteries so I changed them, it seem to work fine when testing it in my condo. Then when out to use it the next day and had all the same issues. Anybody have any ideas of why? or is it a software issue.... I have attached an image of the shutter release that I have....
  5. Hi all, I am going to Australia for 3 weeks towards the end of 2016. By that time I will have upgraded from my Fuji X-E1 (which is getting long in the tooth) to the X-T1 (with vertical grip). I cant decide which road to go down in terms of lenses to accompany the X-T1 on my trip. Currently I have the 18mm F2 and 35mm F1.4 which served me well in Italy for the most part last summer. However, I dont want to regret missing a shot because of absent focal lengths from my kit. Therefore I was thinking of selling the 18mm and getting the 18-135mm for versatility (amongst other benefits OIS WR etc) and keep the 35mm for situations where I want to get creative with depth of field etc. Alternatively I was contemplating selling both the 18mm and 35mm to get the 16-55mm F2.8 as a do everything lens. I guess my options are; X-T1 with both 18mm and 35mm (small, light and fast but limited reach) X-T1 with both 18-135mm and 35mm (versatile and the option to go fast if needed) X-T1 with 16-55mm only (fairly versatile although will the lack of OIS affect me in low light and will 55mm give me enough reach). Thoughts ? Bhamx2
  6. I just found that the latest firmware for X-T1 / X-T10 can now support 1/250 flash sync. I've tested with Nissin i40, as well as Cactus RF60 with V6 transceiver. It didn't work before, but now it does! I checked the release notes of all previous firmwares, but such update has never been mentioned before. It seems that Fuji hasn't officially announced such update yet, but the feature is there already.
  7. From using my Fuji X-T1 for a short time I have realized that there are a couple of things Fuji could and should implement immediately in all its EVF cameras. Problem 1: - shooting in dark/night situations where when shooting with optical view cameras in low light environments it's usually easy to see the edges of the frame and compose your shot appropriately. Not so with Fuji EVF's where black/dark background areas near the edge of the frame are rendered the same as the non-image portions outside the frame, thus making it impossible to precisely judge where your subject is relative to edge of the frame. Thus, even though you have a 100% view, hi-brightness subjects against a dark background shot in a fast-paced action environment can get off-centered easily Solution 1: is simple. Fuji needs to add a "white frame" mode in its EVF display setting where the frame edge is outlined in white/gray or color by user option. This would eliminate the framing problem described above and would greatly facilitate shooting of rapidly moving subjects. Problem 2: - in a similar fashion, grid line display is now rendered in black and thus leaves the potential that you can see grid placement of light subjects over large dark background. Solution2 : grid display should be changed so that the photographer can select briteline grid display per idea 1. Problem 3: - live histogram is a fantastic tool which nonetheless suffers from a problem similar to the above: that is, when shooting with the histogram overlaying a dark area in the view, you see only the histogram but not where it is relative to the edges. Thus, you can think you are shooting a great histogram when actually it's way over or under exposed. Solution 3: provide a histogram options where the background of the graph is filled in white (not transparent) thus allowing you to get a more complete view of the histogram. ALL the above solutions could be implemented via firmware and more importantly, these fixes could immediately provide a vast improvement in user experience. Anyone out there whose experience echoes mine?
  8. Little back story, full-time working photographer (editorial and wedding) hoping to make the switch from my Canon system to Fuji after falling in love with the X100t. I hopped on reliable forums and purchased a mint X-T1 and 56mm f/1.2 to test the waters. Upon unboxing, I found out it had the dreaded squishy D-Pad (as opposed to my awesome rental from Borrow Lenses), and "Light Flare" issue. Original owner wouldn't take it back, so I called up the Pro Repair Center in VA for warranty work. 1. 45 minute wait to get direction for an Repair Order Form, 2. $50 FedEx ground from CA to VA, 3. 3 WEEK wait before I receive any word from Fuji (no acknowledgement that they received my camera – nothing), 4. Repair Estimate is $175, 5. Call them up and they explain they are charging me because free warranty work was done last year, not this year. They also admit that my serial number is affected but they won't fix their own issue. Moral of the story/rant – Fuji doesn't have their shit together in the repair and support area. I love the cameras, but I can't be in the dark for 3 weeks while trying to earn a living. I have sent many items into Canon's CPS program and love their overly active communication – "We received your item," "Your Estimate is $$$," "We finished your repair," "We are prepping shipment," "Your tracking number is xxx." No matter how great your cameras are, you will never be the heart of my working system if your support is lacking.
  9. I've read a lot of articles about the importance of turning off OIS when using a tripod, and I've always been a bit skeptical about this. So I thought I'd carry out some tests, and I'd like to share the results. In summary, I can see no significant difference between having OIS on or off, and I am not going to worry any more about turning it off when I'm using a tripod. Another urban myth exploded, though of course that's just for me - your experience may be different. You can see the annotated images here if you are interested: https://ianpiper.smugmug.com/Test-images/OIS-tests/ Method and materials (yes, I was once a practicing research scientist) I used a Fuji X-T1, firmware v4, with a Fuji 18-55mm XF lens, firmware v3.12. The tripod was a Gitzo Mountaineer Basalt model with a Manfrotto Junior geared head, adapted to have an Arca plate. Each picture was taken using auto-focus on the centre of the image. I used the self-timer to minimise movement. I took two sets of images; one with OIS on and the other with it off. For each set, I took images at f8 and f11 (the sweet spot for this lens, in common with most Fuji lenses in my experience) at 18mm, 23mm, 35mm and 55mm.
  10. On the Mont @ Mont St. Michel - France Fuji X-T1 w/ 10-24mm - Tripod, Cropped, Processed in Lightroom & Photoshop
  11. I've mostly been a dedicated Architectural/Real Estate Photographer for a couple of years now, but as I have been since 2011, I am still the official photographer for TEDxDirigo here in Maine. The last TEDx event I shot I was still using a full on Nikon kit and this weekend was the first workout that I've really had with just my Fujis. https://www.flickr.com/photos/treehouseinstitute/sets/72157660955782332/ I'm very happy over all. I used the older X-E1 with the 35/1.4 or 10-24/4 and played with the 56/1.2 for shots in the crowd. Most of the speakers images were made with the X-T1 and the 55-200/3.5-4.8. The wider stage shots were made with the 10-24/4 on the X-E1 and they aren't quite up to the same low light standards of the newer X-T1 of course. As it doesn't look like an X-E3 with a flip LCD is forthcoming anytime soon and as I found the 55-200 too long (at the wide end) for this venue but essential to get in tighter, I may end up getting an X-E2 (I really prefer this form of a camera even to my X-T1) and pick up the more convenient 18-135/3.5-5.6. Most of the time I am shooting between f/5.6 and f/8 for stage work of this sort of event so I don't NEED fast glass in a zoom and 135mm is long enough for most any stage work I've ever done but would also allow me to go wider when I need to quickly, without changing bodies. Getting the 18-135 would likely make the 55-200 redundant (and the 18-135 is weather sealed.) I may be able to pay for the new lens with the older one.
  12. Greetings. My name is Ade Russell and I live in Munich. I am a Brit, originally from Sheffield, England. I am a keen amatur and long time Nikon guy. A year ago I got an x100s as a second camera and now I have added an X-T1. I travel a lot and always my D810 with me. Now I am trying the X-T1. So far I am very impressed. You can see my work at https://500px.com/aderussell Cheers... Ade
  13. I just published a photobook from my Iceland trip. All pictures taken with the Fuji X-T1. Most of the Pictures taken with the amazing 10-24mm and the 16-55mm. Some of them with the 50-140mm and the 55-200mm. Here is the link: http://www.blurb.de/b/6423533-am-rand-des-polarkreises (online viewing is free of charge )
  14. So I own both an XT1 and XP1. My photographic ability (or lack of, whatever) is the same with each camera The way I PP is the same with each camera The things I take snaps of is the same with each camera. I'm the constant. Yet, on Flickr my XT1 shots are tangibly more popular than my XP1 ones (neither are that popular, anything over 100 views and 4 favs is a good run for me, to quantify that, I haven't cultivated a colossal number of followers, nor do I put a lot of pics in a lot of groups, THIS IS NOT ABOUT BEING MORE POPULAR ON FLICKR, I just wonder why my 140ish followers find my XT1 ones more palatable than my XP1 ones) And I can't begin to guess why this might be? Anyone any theories? (It has been suggested to me that 'X-T1' might be the more popular tag)
  15. Hi folks, I have an upcoming project that involves taking some environmental portraits of people. They will mostly be single person upper body outdoor portraits with an urban background. Since we need to see the surroundings, very shallow depth of field capacity isn't really required -- though it can't hurt. What lens (it can be Fuji or third party) would you use for this job and why ? Any advice welcome
  16. I photograph using jpeg+raw. When shooting both I usually I usually discard the jpeg, and keep the raw once I've used the jpeg for review, and then processed the raw. When working on the raw file many times I find myself upping the shadows, and/or exposure. I have my camera set to Astia, -1 shadow -1 highlights as my default. I've considered setting the camera to Proneg Standard when shooting but that would defeat the purpose of WYSIWYG in the viewfinder. Plus, my LR import preset for all raw files is set to Astia This may have to do with the jpeg and the DR setting. Mine is set to DR100. I would like to shut the DR off and test. Is that do-able? Let me know. Many Thanks J EDITED: I think I just answered my own question with the help of DARKNJ. If I change my "Q" settings to 0 for shadows and 0 for the highlights when shooting both raw+jpeg. This way the in-camera review as well as the jpeg in LR will not have the shadows tweaked in any way nor the highlights. The jpeg in LR should match, or come close to my raw file when I use my Astia import preset into LR. Jeez, I just had an AAAHA moment. I'll have to create a different profile with the -1 shadows and -1 highlights for those few times when I shoot just JPEG's. I think we've got it Watson. J
  17. Hallstatt, Upper Austria, is a village in the Salzkammergut, a region in Austria. Hallstatt is known for its production of salt, dating back to prehistoric times, and gave its name to the Hallstatt culture, a culture often linked to Celtic in Early Iron Age Europe, c.800–450 BC. Some of the earliest archaeological evidence for the Celts was found in Hallstatt. UNESCO World Heritage Site. Flickr / 500px / fotocommunity
  18. I'm ready to pull the trigger on buying an X-T1, but because it has been on the market for nearly 2 years, I'm concerned that Fuji may be on the verge of releasing an X-T2. Does anyone have any information as to when an updated version might be announced? Thanks.
  19. Hi all, I was wondering whether any forum users are actively using their XT1 setup for videography? I've been thinking about shooting a small family documentary with an elderly relative but I'm concerned about various comments/issues raised over image quality and I've seen some bad examples of moire etc. Similarly from my research, it appears the mic Jack is 2.5mm, how are people working around this issue for quality audio? It's such a shame that Fuji can't get good quality video output from the XT1 and let us use our great lens and Fuji colours. Solid video output for occasional use such as this would be much appreciated! Being a former GH3 owner and seeing what Sony have done with the A7 range, I think Fuji are missing a trick and risk losing customers to other formats. For example, I noticed that Zack Arius has opted for a GH4 to make up for Fuji's lack of video support, but had kept his Fuji gear. Whether he'd have made the same decision had the A7Rii been available, who knows! Either way, I would be grateful to hear from any XT1 users with experiences to share. Given the importance of the project I want to make sure I've got the right gear/fully aware of any quirks before I start. Thanks in advance, Daniel
  20. Hi all, I've been shooting stop-motion wedding films alongside my stills photography for three years now, and while I switched to Fuji for my stills last year, I've been still using Canon cameras for my stop-motion films. This was mainly due to concerns about battery life, responsiveness, manual focus etc. I've now become very comfortable with the X-T1 and worked out how best to set up the cameras to achieve the results I need for my films, and have started shooting exclusively Fuji. Here's the first that's 100% X-T1 - we shoot approx 4500 RAW files for the film, of which about 1600 make the final cut. add to that another 1500-1800 stills and it's a 170GB day! Anyway, if you want to see just what can be achieved with Fuji gear, check this out!
  21. Hello Everyone, I am having a bit of a dilemma that I was hoping the good people here could help me out with. I currently have an X-T1 along with the following lenses: 18–135, 55-200 and 35mm f2. I just had my first kid three months ago and am thoroughly enjoying capturing him. I am however having a hard time getting good (focused) shots as he is starting to move a lot. I'm mostly shooting in the zoned AF mode with either single or continuous focus with the drive mode set to both single and high speed burst. ISO is set to auto. With the 18–135 there are hardly any keepers as it is a pretty slow lens. I get more keepers with the 35 but feel very limited with the focal length. So here is what I have been debating: Get the 23mm f2 - I loved the focal length when I had borrowed the X-100t Get the 16-55 - Nice range thats good for street and landscape and covers the 23mm focal length at a decent speed Get 90mm f2 - Good fast portrait lens Get a used X-100t - I get the focal length I want and an additional camera that I can take with me without having to worry about lenses now that I need to travel light (baby stuff) Get the X-T2 - Faster focusing, better low-light, new processor I am only a hobbyist who is looking to the experts out there to help me figure this out. Please be kind and helpful. Thanks in advance.
  22. When and how are costume settings invoked on the X-T1? I'll primarily shoot in Manuel mode, but also use apeture priority or shutter priority, setting ISO usually at 200. Doing so, I have no idea what is being used for dynamic range, film simulation, white balance, color setting, sharpness, highlight tones, shadow tones, etc. How do I know when a custom setting is being used and when my choice of dial settings are taking precedence over everything else? Confused... Dave
  23. Photos taken at Dublin Zoo with various Fujifilm combinations. http://macfilos.com/photo/2017/1/25/dublin-zoo-just-william-two-fuji-x-and-an-orangutan-or-two William
  24. Hi All, Has anyone used Leica lenses on X-T1? - particularly want to know if there was a substantial difference in IQ...thanks
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