Aswald

Simple as that!
 
Received my 90mm f2 today, and quickly clipped my Raynox 250 to the front and took a couple of test shots and was very impressed. Fantastic quality, and true 1:1 magnification.  I had previously tried extension tubes and screw in close up filters (high quality ones though) on my 56mm 1.2, and was never satisfied with the final quality when approaching 1:1... there would be lots of distortion, aberrations etc. 
 
After reading some macro forums, someone suggested I try a Raynox 150 or 250 instead. I thought they looked cheap & nasty, and were suspiciously inexpensive, so I thought what the hell, and ordered one. 
 
I am very impressed. So much easier than extension tubes, as just quickly clips on to the front of the lens, and can be removed in a second to allow for regular shooting. Optically I cannot fault it. I just wish i'd found out about these ages ago! 
 
Anyway, here is a quick test shot of some moss in the garden with this combo... using the standard small XT-2 flash and a piece of paper help over the lens as a makeshift diffuser. 
 
Macro Moss by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr
 
 
And here is the patch of moss next to the 35mm 1.4 lens cap for scale. 
 
Moss 35mm by Gareth Edwards, on Flickr
 
Not bad huh! If you already own the 90mm, do yourself a favour and pick up a Raynox 250 for quick proper macro gratification! 

Sounds like the internal battery has issues.
 
Some cameras have a button cell to keep your settings in memory but X-Pro2 uses a non replaceable internal battery.
 
They should just stick to button cells. I had an old Nikon p&s which needed a motherboard replacement just because of a defective internal battery.
 
It get's charged by your camera battery. Try leaving your battery in your camera longer. Otherwise, sending it back may be your only option.

Decided to share few interesting observations from comparing "two color" versions of exact same lens - Mitakon Mark II 0.95/35mm.
 
There are few obvious differences displayed on dealers site pictures - newer version has silver aluminum frame, red numbers for ft, and red dot marker for aperture position.

 
Deeper look unveils one more difference - silver version has more yellowish and greenish tint on glass surfaces, comparing to its "Dark Side" version.

 
Same from the rear look

 
One more positive difference in this new silver sample - aperture blades don't shake inside on f0.95 value (they do in the black version).
 
Other than that both lens deliver exactly same sharpness and contrast indoor. Will be interesting to try them under different light. Will share if notice any other difference.
And to my taste silver version looks more natural on Fuji-X silver/chrome bodies : )

Watched this old gentleman as he waited to disembark from a ferry

Keep looking for manual alternative of XF 27mm 2.8 lens.
 
Decided to try Voigtlander 28mm 2.8 SL II in Nikon F mount (Canon mount version is heavier and larger).
 
I like how it performs on Fuji sensor.
 
F2.8

 
F2.8

 
F5.6

WR is good to have if you photograph in extreme scenarios. Think rain forests, sand dunes, torrential rain, volcaoes, swamps, sea, sand, etc....even wildlife photography can be punishing on non wr lenses.

Good to share thoughts, David. I had a tough time shooting at the 400mm end of the fantastic 100-400. Desperately looking for a field scope when I was using that! You must have very steady hands....
 
Are people still into bridge cameras? I'm not sure but it would seem to me most brands are not doing well in that sector. Once OPPO successfully get their zoom smartphones going, it'll probably spell the end of things for bridge cameras.
 
http://androidandme.com/2017/02/news/oppo-shows-off-slim-5x-zoom-camera-setup/

I knew a mixed heritage Caucasian/Chinese girl once who used to dye her hair black so that she looks like the rest of her school mates. No one knew she was a blonde.
 
A rich kid in my school who used to step on his own new shoes so that they appear worn. He's gone on to become one of the most generous person I know to date.
 
We live in an imposing world. People just like to impose on others. The trick is to stop letting people impose on us and more importantly, stop imposing on others.

Yes, I can see your dilemma. If it's any consolation, your 1st pic looks good as it is (not pixel peeped). I wouldn't be able to tell by just looking whether it was xpro2 or x100. I'm not sure if this will help as I understand that different people have different standards. As it is, I think your street photography is good.

Anyone who laughs with older glass is just a (bad) sales clerk, not someone who is passionate for photography.

There are many ways to sell things, the worst is belittling, patronizing and antagonizing a potential buyer even when he is not buying anything because, one day or another this person will be a buyer and will remember the way he or she was treated.
 
Often,this is an attitude held mostly by a certain type of know-it-all sales person, one who looks down on his customers who are all, to him, inferior human being which should drink at his source of all knowledge . More often than not, when one sales person is like that the rest in the shop also do the same thing.
 
One time treated like that I never set foot in that shop again. I vote with my wallet, here are so many places to chose from. If some shop is run like that I spend my money elsewhere where I am treated as a treasured customer.

Switched to XT2 late last year. XT1 was the camera that made me switched from Canon SLR to Fuji. I have not regretted my decision. Here is one of the last weddings we did with XT1 last year. I still don't get some of the latest reviews I've read that said the XT2 is not good enough for weddings. The XT1 was good enough for me!
 
http://binaryflips.com/blog/2017/01/laura-kyle-wedding-at-branford-house-ct/
 
 

I upgraded and still have both. The reason I upgraded and am happy with the T2 is the Autofocus and shorter delay in EVF blackout when shooting burst. I shoot a lot of action photos so this is a great choice for me.
If you don't need faster focus, video, or short blackout times then stay with the T1. Landscape, street, portrait...the T1 is still good enough.
 
I do love my T2 AND T1.

Thank you, Aswald. I can't tell for sure if that is what happened at the time of taking the photograph, but it does make sense to me as the possible cause.

Wow....I kinda prefer the uncorrected version. The corrected one just makes me dizzy!

This looks like an issue with the strong light source in the background. Similar to shooting strong backlit subjects. I've had some issues with with sunset backlit portraits even with the Pro2. I suspect most other cameras would have a 50-50 chance of mistracking under similar circumstances.
 
Before Fujifilm I tried SONY a7ii, 7Rii, 7s, OMD E-M1, Leica Q, M, 240 and to be frank, all of these cameras offer some "magic".....if..... you can accept their many other shortfalls. What is the "best" for you would depend on which suite you are willing to live with. For instance, if I can have Leica lenses mated and working well to the Pro2 body, I would do that.

World’s First Fujifilm X – Contax N Smart Adapter with Autofocus & Electronic Aperture Control (Canon EF Possible in Future)
http://www.fujirumors.com/words-first-fujifilm-x-contax-n-smart-adapter-autofocus-electronic-aperture-control-canon-ef-possible-future/

I've always clicked the joystick to move points even on my 5D3. The advantage of the joystick imo isn't so much about speed vs D-Pad but the control you get with your thumb resting on it, especially when you're shooting at eye level. It's placement also feels more natural then having your thumb all the way down by the D-pad. Nikon suffered from this for years before finally caving in to a thumb level joystick with the D5/500

I'm looking forward to trying the joystick when I buy my X-T2 early next year.
 
I loved selecting AF points using it with the Canon DSLRs I've owned.  If the X-T2 moves the cursor as slowly as the one on the Canon 5D series, I'll probably look into reducing the number of AF points available so that I can get close to the one I want easier, which was what I had to do with the Canon DSLRs.

It's a good price. Photographers who need the camera will buy without hesitation.
 
From past observation, the price may hold until nearer to news of a successor. The x-pro3? Say another 1.5 years down the road......
 
Until then, you may see some drop but not too drastically.

That's it! I'm reporting to "PETC"! People for the ethical treatment of cameras!  
 
Glad it's still working!

The XPro1 is very close in picture IQ to the 5Dc.
 
The bokeh of the 5Dc+85 F1.2 is still better than the XPro1+56 F1.2.
 
What you gain is AF accuracy, sharpness and slightly better high ISO performance. The auto ISO feature on the Pro1 is a real bonus when you're shooting on the go. In that respect, the lighter weight of the Pro1+56 F1.2 is very conducive for long hour shoots or if you want to shoot on site.

Yes, I've seen your racing shots. Pretty impressive.
 
I find that in good light, the T2 is about 20-30% faster than the T1 in most AF areas. However, where it really trumps over the T1 is low light and low contrast situation......and when the booster battery grip is in use.

Agree.
Overall performances are similar enough.
Then weight or price considerations are starting to rise.
Or something more individual.
My copy of 50-230 performs better from middle to long end, while my copy of 55-200 is better from wide end up to middle.

, Good luck!