Aswald
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Posts posted by Aswald
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Don't plan for perfection. There isn't one. Just go with one and it'll all work out fine.
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....but but.....why?
- Patrick FR, rrrrrichard and johant
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3
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The rest of the lens looks pristine, body and glasses.
Just remove the screws, take the cover out and wash it with water and a good toothbrush. Use a good multipurpose cleaning agent, rinse clean, dry (under the sun for a good dose of uv) and replace. Chances are It won't come back again.
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I don't think the X-T1 does.
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I have been using my trusty 18-55mm Fuji kit as a reception lens, but lately it's been having a really tough time focusing in low-light scenarios. I know that I generally shoot most of the time at 18mm at 2.8. I am wondering if the 18 f2 would be a better low-light performer? The 16mm is also an option, but if I'd prefer to save the cash and weight if possible. Any thoughts or experience with any of these?
Stick with your 18-55 until the 18 mk2 comes out.
The 18mk1 is a very normal lens. Nothing to shout about. Soft corners and colors are a little dull.
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Don't think Pro2 supports Live view thethering at this point.
Plug in Pro may be the only way for now.
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I am facing a dilemma. The cost/specs of the new iMacs infuriates me. For the cost of a base 27 inch iMac, I could build a PC with superior processing power, a better video card, and Terabytes of SSD storage. Plus, I am sick of editing photos on the iMac's glossy screen. The only thing holding me back is Windows. In 2010 I switched to Apple because I was sick of dealing with PC/Windows issues. Can anybody using a PC let me know if Windows really has improved and become reliable in the last 7 years? Thank you
I've been using both Windows and Apple iOs for the last 10 years. Both will do the job equally well. For a novice, I'd recommend going the Apple way. You have to do less to get decent edit. For Windows based PC, there's more work in selecting a suitable hardware list (there are still compatibility issues here and there) and you'll need to calibrate your color eco system.
From my personal experience, Win 7 Pro 64bit and Win 10 Pro 64bit is very, very reliable and stable. High resolution (4k) scaling for fonts and icon is still no where near iOs but you do get a much faster pc for your money. Go with m2 nvme ssd or SSD based os drive if you can. The former being the preferred choice. I only recommend Samsung 950 Pro or the 850 Pro.
I found this article helpful when it comes to Apple products.
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Sounds fun.
Definitely for people who like surprises.
I'm wondering why 3 days? Is it some optimal psychological timeline or is it the time they need to take a look at your pic and decide which creative filter is the best to make your photo into a winning shot.
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I'm not sure why Fujifilm opted to blink their frame lines. And I agree with you that it's a much better experience if it doesn't blink.
The only main difference between the Pro2 and say the M9 is the autofocus, as the M9 is a range finder camera. Perhaps Fujifilm may update this with their firmware.
What I find more annoying is that in Auto ISO, it doesn't show the ISO selected by the camera instead it shows the max iso selected in the auto iso settings. That, to me makes little sense.
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Somehow I have a small scratch right in the middle of the rear LCD on my X-T2. Looking to see if there is a simple, easy solution for how to remove it. It is not deep. I put a glass protector on it (too late) thinking that might cover, but it makes it more apparent.
Looking for good reliable suggestions which will not further damage the LCD.
Thanks
Get used to it.
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Anytime. And all the best.
Sounds like a great opportunity for creative shots.
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Good idea with the X-T20. The 56F1.2 will help make your portfolio look good at the end with some artistic touch which the couple will like.
Usually, I shoot with 2 or 3 cameras for events but I didn't want to push it too far with your post.
Better with 2 photographers but you now, as long as your heart and mind is in it, you're half way to great results.
Shoot with your heart and let your eye be the window to your canvas. The gears are just a means to and end.
Don't forget to have fun......and stay hydrated.
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These are the "recommended" list of focal length for a typical wedding. FL in full frame equivalence
24mm
35mm
24-70mm
85mm
70-200mm
In your case, I would do this,
18-55mm (shoot wide open)
35F2 (shoot wide open)
Use a on or off camera flash set to bounce 45deg forward. Put an orange gel and set your camera WB to tungsten. (That's provided that you'd be shooting in mainly incadescent indoor lighting). Try to get a good balance of flash exposure and back ground lighting. I would avoid too stark a diference, i.e. background too dark.
With your lens, expose for highlights and let your camera's excellent high iso performance do it's work. ISO3200 is very comfortable with the T2.
If you have to rent, I would recommend the 23F1.4 or F2 and the 56F1.2 or 90F2. Otherwise, your existing lenses are actually quite workable.
Get a good combination of these shots.
Pre-wedding preparation shots, individual groom and bride. Intimate and mood shots with a tele will give privacy and intimacy. Capture static items like shoes, rings, corsages, gown, etc....please arrange them properly and tastefully beforehand. Lots of smiles and happiness with friends, bridemaids, etc...
Shots of anticipation. Groom waiting at isle, hall, room etc.
Bride Arrival shots. Father/guardian giving away bride, etc
A tele for close-ups of mood shots like emotional moments, tears, smiles, etc...
A wide for overall capture of the environment, mood. grandeur, etc
Know the process beforehand, prepare for throwing of bouquet, or any other traditional/cultural practices...
Semi wide angle of reception/party after wedding. Well balanced Flashes works well with environmental lighting. Capture motion of people dancing, smiling, hugs, etc...
Again, a tele for snooping on unsuspecting hugs, smiles, kisses, etc...
Hope these helps. All the best.
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Probably to conserve power. Leica uses a leaf shutter but Fujifilm still uses mechanical plane shutter. And since any pictorial info is sent via live view the cmos sensor, the software would have to divert work to write onto the memory card momentarily when the pic is taken.
That's my best guess.
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Sorry to hear that. Yeah, agree with Milandro. Try Fujifilm Japan first. Failing which, just take it to Fujifilm Italy. All the best.
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http://sea.pcmag.com/news/16333/micron-decides-to-kill-lexar-brand
Sad news. Always love Lexar cards.
I wonder if WD is going to acquire Lexar too.....
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Some sample pics may help.
Shutter speed, iso settings, etc....
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Will be interesting to see what Fujifilm/Nikon decides on....
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Patrick is right.
It's normal in Japan. Business is competitive but they do help each other out. Big brother business culture. As long as one isn't too cocky.....
For an icon business like Nikon, it's natural for the government to step in to try and help preserve a traditional Japanese name.
Nikon has contributed much to the photography world and I think some of their lenses are amongst the best there is. It would be a great shame to see them go.
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It's challenging to catch fast moving targets, but practicing helps.
Nice capture on the 2nd one.
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There is already an AF-L button on the Pro2.
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No very major on the Pro2.
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Gorgeous lady.
My X-Pro2 Review.
in Fuji X-Pro 1 / Fuji X-Pro 2 / Fuji X-Pro 3
Posted
Sorry for your loss.