jp_stone

I enjoying lurking around bridges and damns near water activity (troll-like, yes). Often I get back sprayed with mist and end up ragging off the end of the lens over and over again. For me, a glass filter of some kind is a must, vs. trying to reach and clean out a recessed lens face on some of my lenses. I carry a washable microfiber wash cloth in my pocket for this (detailing cloth from Wal Mart's auto accessories area). Also use it to clean off my glasses and Fuji-LCD screen if I get "nose art" on it. I typically do not use glass in front of my lenses while indoors, because of the propensity of light jumping around within. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTOKnropLkY And for general purpose impact resistance, this might convince some to considering "wearing protection". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ky1CVNq6QTU

Certainly a consideration now that the NIK is free. I downloaded it the other day and added it as a feature of PHOTO-SHOP. Have not played with it much. Great pic of the Rover by the way.

The D7000 is a great camera actually. Does not hurt to keep one foot in both worlds, I see Adorama, etc. selling them for like $379 right now as a genuine Nikon refurb and have considered grabbing one myself. There are some Nikon lenses that are simply amazing, especially if you already own them, like the Nikon 16-35 f/4 for landscape. I look at having multiple-camera body brands as just "broadening the sport". I deer hunt with a rifle. I also deer hunt with a bow sometimes. Is the rifle more effective, yes. But sometimes its fun to approach the task differently, slowly, making it about enjoying the task and not just seeing how many shots you can plunk down range in fast order. That goes for photography and hunting.

This worked well for me, Not my video, but it's perhaps the fastest way to explain it to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1ZuK_dDweg I used lots of Canon lenses including L glass with a 20 dollar China made adapter on my Fuji Xe1 with great results, but I set my aperture with the Canon lens while it was still ON THE CANON BODY. Sounds / looks goofy, but works. I set some of mine at f/8 for landscape and just left them there, worked well. Many Canon lenses that people will say are "soft" work extremely well on a FUJI SENSOR! I since moved fully away from Canon and am just now in Fuji. I will say an adapted Canon 17-40L can be magical. http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Unstable_rider/Can-17-40L_fuji%20XE-1_zpshhluruh0.jpg~original http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Unstable_rider/17-40_edited_zpsfwgkymbh.jpg~original http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q611/Unstable_rider/fall001_April_zps1r6l2dqq.jpg~original

Larry had very good truthful comments. Like finally saying the Emperor is wearing no pants, it's not "fashionable" to say a bit of vintage glass is not sharp wide open, yet as Larry knows and others + myself, it be fact. There is a romantic "draw" to an extent to play with old adapted glass in this manner. For me, it works best to take some "potshots" with the adapted glass for fun, but if the subject matter is something I cannot return to easily or re-create, TAKE SOME PICS WITH A REAL FUJI LENS before you vacate the scene.... that way you come home with something on your card in focus. Once in awhile the adapted vintage glass will nail something or have it's own "soft focus" that comes out rather desirable too. Great post/topic.

Hey Sean, I am new to the forum as well, but not new to Fuji, and not new to photography. Just a thought, if you can get permission to use a modest size tripod, and can stay near enough to keep it from getting knocked over, consider setting up in full manual, set your focus manually and "range it" and leave it alone. Put the camera on "bulb", and use a remote. You will come home with a collection of "blurry" shots of people moving, and get some lucky shots of static objects, and some people that were standing still. Experiment with "time" and a remote, and don't feel you have to shoot wide open all the time either. Everyone wants to "stop" motion.... hell I want it to "move". Most of my glass set at F18 ! Not sure, but I think the X100t will take an electronic remote. I have a cheap wireless transmitter-receiver rig I love. I did not care for the "retro mechanical cable experience", and went from An Xpro-1 where I had no choice, to an EX-1 where I can use modern remotes. I do not use flash or strobes for anything, just me. My socks never match either.

Greetings from the Midwest. My name is J.P. & I'm a Fujiholic. I am on my second XE-1, and see no reason to change. I had an Xpro-1 as well, loved the build, etc. But it did not seem as "lucky" for me. IMAGE BELOW: This from a Canon 17-40L on an XE-1. I wouldn't run it hand held, although it balanced great, I just prefer to futz with focus for what equated to a manual lens in this case, while parked squarely on a tripod for landscape stuff. Wish I still had my Canon lenses-- but it meant keeping around a Canon body to change aperture before I docked the lenses on the Fuji. FYI, the 17-40L from Canon actually is not all that well liked by the Canon crowd, I actually found it shot sharper on a FUJI. What a hoot to shoot! I had great success with a Canon nifty fifty and an 85mm prime too. Adapted with a cheap Fotosay / Canon to Fuji X adapter. It was loose. It rattled. It was cheaply made. And I loved it.

The XP-1 is built like a truck, impressive. I like it's similarities to the XE-1, which was my first Fuji experience. I had the XP-1 a month or two, and didn't think it shot as reliably as the XE-1. I say "reliable" versus making a statement like, "the X-Pro 1 isn't any good.... no, that's not what I mean. Both cam's certainly willing to ring the bell for you, I just think the XE-1 did it with more "ease and grace", and when I look at how many times I pulled the trigger on each body in contrast with how many "home runs" I came home with, I am sharing with you that the XE-1 worked better for me. Yep, same sensor, yep, yep. Just me I bet. Probably a total fluke. Just bought a new old stock XE-1 for the second time. I am a happy clam.

I think it's more of a case of "what are you able do with it", vs. is the 27mm any good. The '27' is easy to master and does not disappoint. I wont say how "good" it is, or speak on the build, or the lens cap or the stinking box it came in, it's just an easy lens to get to know. Like a cheap taco, it's just satisfying to use at a good price. Those quick to poke at it with a stick maybe aren't patient with other Fuji lenses either. They may also be the crowd that thinks they need a full size sensor, and then find out those often have less pixel density than an M43 Olympus Pen. "Mastering what you have" is typically a better initial practice then hopping around from lens to lens, blaming glass on one's ability, or "inability" to hit the metaphoric side of barn with 16 MP's of gamma... Great conversation just the same. At least we all shoot Fuji, right? You guys probably hate motorcycles, my humble apologies...... Some stray pot shots with an XE-1 (does anyone even shoot with those anymore?) and the crappy 27mm. Horrible, complete lack of color saturation Nearly no contrast at all, a bit bland.... snooze... Rotten, worthless bokeh. You can't get bokeh from a 27, forget it. It's crap. Good luck! The pics without any feeling at all, flat, boring, very run of the mill "snaps" at best. Very prone to blowing out the whites, (whoops!) worthless! It's not capable of finding focus with both hands and a flashlight. Especially running around with no flash at an indoor event. Forget it. Just stay home. Buy a Canon! As a 'beater" lens, it's ok, but no better than an iPhone 4. Maybe good enough so you remember where some of the big parts go... but that's it. Not a good lens for anything "expressive", everything pretty flat, bla-meh....