glospete

Before you use a new SD card (or any SD card that may have been used/formatted in another device) you should always format it “in camera” (in the camera you want to use it with).
This will help ensure that the card’s format/data structure is compatible with your camera.
Cheers!

Thanks for the input.
It does surprise me that many of the "so called" expert reviewers seem to have it wrong. 
Coming from film, old school, I rarely shoot in burst so the reduced burst amount is not a big issue . But I appreciate the info on power consumption.
Battery life is really the only weakness of this series, but the solution is to carry more batteries, or the grip if you don't mind the extra bulk.  Not rocket science.
 

You asked an open question for 2 lenses and then closed it down by saying you had decided already on the 23mm!
My 2 choices would be (and in fact are) the 10-24mm and the 18-55mm standard lens. If you wanted a third choice then I'd add the 55-200mm zoom but very often I just crop an image from the 18-55mm on my X-T2 and that suffices. With the X-T4 you'll have even more pixels to play with so you may not need a longer zoom. 

The X on a camera's shutter speed dial signifies the flash sync speed which is s the fastest shutter speed at which a camera and flash can sync. Ib your case that speed is 1/180 second. 

Go to SETUP (spanner symbol)
 - Save Data Setup
 - Copyright Information - change the information on Copyright and Author here)
It is well buried I have to admit but this should solve your problem. 
Peter
 
 

I’ll let others answer points 1 and 2 but I feel able to answer number 3.
Yes it is disappointing that there is no built-in GPS but in fairness Fuji never claimed there was. Using the Fuji app to add GPS coordinates is rather clunky so what I do is this. On my iPhone I use an app called GeotagPhotos
http://www.geotagphotos.net
All is explained on their site but basically you ensure your camera has EXACTLY the same time as your phone, start the app and then it records the position where you took each photo - it actually records a track (using the phone’s built-in GPS). All your recorded routes can then be exported as a GPX file via Dropbox, email, or the web and using Lightroom or a similar program it matches the time along the route with the time you took each photo and then tags each photo with the location. Simples! I use it all the time and it works perfectly. I also get a nice route of where I took my photos as well as them being individually tagged.

Hi
i can’t explain the portrait/landscape issue but I can comment on the file handling. I have 2 X-T2 bodies and to differentiate the files I use the “edit file name” feature. I have one called XT2Axxxx and the other XT2Bxxxx so that should solve that.
Go to:
MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Edit File Name
Assuming you are using Continuous file numbering (see below) when your camera clicks through 9999 images and reverts to 0001then you could change the prefix eg XT3C which would then give you 359,974 unique file names for this camera. 
For the issue of file renaming, check that you are using “continuous” frame numbering. This setting is relevant as to whether the camera resets the file numbering scheme when you change memory cards or reformat the current one. By setting Frame No. to “Continuous”, you are telling your camera to: “Number my files in order till you reach 9,999, then start again at “1” – no matter how many times I take my memory card out of the camera or reformat it. Set this to “Renew” though, and you've instructed the camera to: “Start numbering at “1” each time I reformat or insert a new memory card.”. I always use Continuous. 
Go to: 
MENU spanner, Save Data Set-Up, Frame No. 
Hope the above helps. 

I had an X-E2 and a X-T1. Traded in the X-E2 for an X-T2 and much prefer it to the X-T1. Now selling my X-T1 so that I have 2 identical bodies as it can get confusing at times because of different controls, menu items etc. I have no hesitation in recommending X-T2 over X-T1 - IQ, handling, dual slots, bigger files great for out of camera cropping. I could go on .....

Ah! truly, thank you glospete. disaster averted. Now lets see if it loads... 
 
again, thanks a million.
 

I have v4.0 and I've posted it to my Dropbox:
 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/vqxzyiazjztm9c2/AAClb-ekqUJeIZK3IOOf0YW2a?dl=0

I'd like to see in body geotagging; I can't be doing with hooking up to my smartphone!

I've stopped following the camera news basically ... when my X-PRO1 or X-T1 break, I will look around again for what's hot then.
 
Perfectly happy with the 16MP cameras here ... less happy with the time I currently have to process my photos :-(

I think the 10-24 and the 55-200 would make a good travel kit if you want to take zoom lenses with you.
 
One thing the 18-135 has over the 55-200; it is a WR lens.

I had the 18-135mm and sold it. It's not a bad lens, but it's not a great one either. Whenever I was shooting something where I specifically wanted a longer focal length, the 135mm was rarely enough. Also, the 55-200mm has exceptional image quality. I shoot 90% of my photos with primes, but the 55-200 never disappoints me in sharpness or overall image quality. It doubles as a decent portrait lens too if you open up the aperture, zoom it, and step back a bit.
 
I would also say that if you enjoy landscapes, the 55-200mm is something I never go without for landscapes. It seems counter-intuitive at first, but a moderate telephoto zoom can get you great landscape photos in specific environments. I've shot the Swiss Alps with the 10-24 and the Cascade Mountains with the 55-200 and got great images in both cases. Excellent and underrated landscape tool.

I’ll let others answer points 1 and 2 but I feel able to answer number 3.
Yes it is disappointing that there is no built-in GPS but in fairness Fuji never claimed there was. Using the Fuji app to add GPS coordinates is rather clunky so what I do is this. On my iPhone I use an app called GeotagPhotos
http://www.geotagphotos.net
All is explained on their site but basically you ensure your camera has EXACTLY the same time as your phone, start the app and then it records the position where you took each photo - it actually records a track (using the phone’s built-in GPS). All your recorded routes can then be exported as a GPX file via Dropbox, email, or the web and using Lightroom or a similar program it matches the time along the route with the time you took each photo and then tags each photo with the location. Simples! I use it all the time and it works perfectly. I also get a nice route of where I took my photos as well as them being individually tagged.

Yup. Ice cold statistics never lie - in this case at least.  LR proves itself to me very useful in many cases, this being one of them.

Hi Jorge
 
A very interesting topic! I hadn't done the calculation but using the excellent Jeffrey Friedl's “Megapixel Sort” Lightroom Plugin I can see that I've taken just over 25,000 shots with my XE-2 (now retired), my X-T1 and my recently acquired X-T2. I always thought I used the 18-55 a lot but I now see that it has been used for 71% of all my photos. My 10-24mm has been used for 21% and the remaining 8% is spread between the 35mm F1.4, and the 55-200mm. I now ask myself why did I buy these other lenses? But I totally agree that the 18-55mm is a fantastic lens - sharp, lightweight and inexpensive. What's not to like? 

Yes I forgot to say that there is battery impact but the latest versions of the app minimise it and I can do a whole mornings recording (with GeoTag Photos) and not flatten my battery. I carry a portable charger thing to boost my battery if I need it but nowadays I don't need to use it.
 
And the Map feature of Lightroom shows all the photos on a map and small thumbnails of them in their location. Very clever.  

I’ll let others answer points 1 and 2 but I feel able to answer number 3.
Yes it is disappointing that there is no built-in GPS but in fairness Fuji never claimed there was. Using the Fuji app to add GPS coordinates is rather clunky so what I do is this. On my iPhone I use an app called GeotagPhotos
http://www.geotagphotos.net
All is explained on their site but basically you ensure your camera has EXACTLY the same time as your phone, start the app and then it records the position where you took each photo - it actually records a track (using the phone’s built-in GPS). All your recorded routes can then be exported as a GPX file via Dropbox, email, or the web and using Lightroom or a similar program it matches the time along the route with the time you took each photo and then tags each photo with the location. Simples! I use it all the time and it works perfectly. I also get a nice route of where I took my photos as well as them being individually tagged.

Page 39 of the User Manual (v2.1). I have pasted from it below: 
 
The camera can be used with two cards, one in each of its two slots. At default settings, photos are saved to the card in the second slot only when the card in the first slot is full. This can be changed using D SAVE DATA SET-UP > CARD SLOT SETTING (STILL IMAGE).
SEQUENTIAL (default) - The card in the second slot is used only when the card in the first slot is full. If the second slot is selected for D SAVE DATA SET-UP > SWITCH SLOT (SEQUENTIAL), recording will start on the card in the second slot and switch to the first slot when the card in the second slot is full.
BACKUP - Each picture is recorded twice, once to each card.
RAW/JPEG - As for SEQUENTIAL, except that the RAW copy of pictures taken with FINE + RAW or NORMAL + RAW selected for H IMAGE QUALITY SETTING > IMAGE QUALITY will be saved to the card in the first slot and the JPEG copy to the card in the second slot.
 
Hope that helps. 

No, there's no difference, the batteries perform the same way, apart from a little better temperature management of the newer 'S' version. See more details in my full test of Fujifilm batteries at http://ultralightphotography.net/gear/fuji-cameras/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-np-w126-batteries/
 
Jiri

The Battery Grip also works as a dual charger... just in case you wanted one anyway.

Yep I use an Expro dual charger which works well!

I was thinking of this one
Expert Shield *Lifetime Guarantee* - The Anti Glare Screen Protector for : FujiFilm X-T2
 
There is also a crystal clear version. Which one is suitable for what situation?

If camera 1 has a problem but camera 2 does not, then that helps to ensure it is a camera problem.
 
I'd recommend re-applying latest firmware to camera that has the problem.  That may kick it in the butt.  And as per usual 'good practice', format the cards in the camera.
 
I'd think that should latest firmware re-installed plus formatting cards in the camera and still have problem ... Fuji support may be needed to get it working correctly.