Jake Hall

A good point and I'm all for waiting until you really need more from your camera rather than just want more. Sadly I think that time is coming soon for my x-t1 and I.

Great input, thank you. What you say makes total sense, and I feel I would really enjoy those improvements too

So i'm a landscape and wildlife guy, currently shooting with the trusty and entirely excellent X-T1. In the next 12 months or so I'll be looking to upgrade though, and this has me thinking... Do I get a discounted/second hand X-T2 or hold out for X-T3? I suppose for me the real question is whether or not the IQ and AF will be a significant step ahead of the already well regarded X-T2? I know we're likely to see an X-T3 at the tail end of 2018, but what are we likely to see? I'm not at all bothered about video features. www.surfcoastnature.com all shot with X-T1, 35mm f2, 55-200, samyang 12mm f2

Thanks for the feedback Tikcus! Glad you enjoyed the photos. Out of curiousity, which bear fishing photo were to referring to?

Thanks for the response Nero, you make a lot of good points. I'm fairly locked into being a landscape shooter, I shoot wildlife too but with my 55-200 (I wish I could afford the 100-400) and I think you're right about maybe having both 23 and 16 in the long run, especially if an f2 version of the 16 comes out. It sounds like your style is similar to mine - I'm usually exploring multiple places, usually hiking with my girlfriend. Thankfully she's very patient but that doesn't stop me wanting to get the job done as soon as possible and keep it moving. The 23 would be great for everyday walkabout I'm sure, I often find my 35f2 too tight. I agree completely about not wanting to swap lenses all the time, but for me that's countered by having a choice of small lenses rather than one large one - many times I'll just take a single lens out on a walk or pocket a backup lens. I think I'm sold on 23 at this point, and like you said, back it up in the future with a 16f2 if it comes out or maybe the rumoured 8-16 (I'd probably be OK with an ultra wide zoom, so long as it's good for Astro). Thanks! For anyone that was interested, I just yesterday made a website for my photos - I'd love some feedback! All shot with X-T1, Samyang 12 f2, XF 35 f2 or XF 55-200 - who says you need expensive gear to get results!? www.surfcoastnature.com

Enjoy! I'm yet to see even an average review of that lens, much less a bad one.

Thanks for the image! Nice work, it certainly looks good enough for my purposes. I think I'm pretty close to decided here, thanks to all!

That makes sense. Those two lenses are highly praised. At this point I think I'm pretty set on getting a smaller WR version. I'm not at all lazy when it comes to zooming with your feet but when out hiking and exploring I rarely want to go backwards. A lot of the time you have to go quite a long way back (and up a hill) to get to the 35 equiv FOV from 50.

Wise input, thank you. I'm considering getting the 18-135 for my partners X-E1 so I might have to have a play with it. As for me, I definitely prefer small, lightweight primes with marked aperture rings, as mentioned before, I find it more fun. The 23 f2 is sounding better and better!

Thanks for the reply. You're right, the close focus and flash things aren't an issue for me, i don't really do either. The closest I ever focus when when I'm taking a photo of gear to put on eBay... an extremely nice deal on the 1.4 you say? I'll keep an eye out for it but I think at this point I'm sold on the smaller WR version - I doubt I'd ever use 1.4 if I'm being truly honest with myself

Thanks for your thoughts. The 10-24 surely looks like a good lens, but something about it doesn't speak to me. I really enjoy fixed focal lengths and a marked aperture ring. I know it's insignificant really but it makes the process more enjoyable to me, which for me, is what's important about the Fuji system

That's good to hear. I may have been hasty in suggesting that most people are turned off by it, but the main flaw I was referring to are the reports that it's soft at close focusing distances under f4. Not a problem at all for me or indeed most people, just some people on the internet aren't happy about that, you know how internet-people get....

I hear you. I've taken a lot of photos with my 12 and 35 and I'm confident that I need (want) something in between. I find the 35 to be a bit tight for the first composition I see, though as you said, I can usually find a way to make it work - sometimes I do just want that first composition though. The 12mm is a different beast, it's great for that really wide angle perspective but walking closer won't make much of a difference at all, unless to change a foreground element. It's also amazing for Astro. I think you might be right in suggesting that 18 and 35 has it covered though. Surely I don't need 2 lenses between 35 and 12. ? I do like the 35equiv length though (I used to have an x100s) and I like to think the 23 f2 will come down in price soon (especially with its flaws turning most people off). The annoying thing is that I think I prefer 35mm equiv to 50mm equiv. but then, I scored the 35mm so cheap and its so good that it'd be tough to give it up!

I need some guidance with what lens to get next for my trusty X-T1. The gap in my lineup that I'm trying to fill? Wide. I currently have the Samyang 12mm F2, XF 35mm F2 and XF 55-200. As you can see, I need something to sit between 12mm and 35mm. What do I shoot? Landscapes mostly. I will also add that a huge part of my decision will be based on portability. I'm a little unconventional in this regard as a landscape shooter - I'm not really a plan-it-to-death and wait for hours kind of guy as much as I am a go for I hike with my camera and see what happens kind of guy. I'm also inclined to go out in bad weather rather than shy away from it, so WR would be nice. So at this point the 23mm F2 sounds pretty good, right? Well, I'm not sure what to do about the rumoured 18mm f2 (or hopefully 16mm). See, I'd like to get only one lens to fill the gap. If I got the 23mm I still feel like I'd probably wind up wanting something between 12 and 23. Between 16/18 and 35 I'd probably be OK. I'd like to get A lens sooner rather than later, as I'm really missing a wide (24/35 equiv). Can anyone speculate on when we might see the new 18mm? Also, I know the 23 and 16 1.4s are out there, and while I'm sure they're stellar lenses, I'm happy to compromise a little IQ for a smaller (and cheaper) lens. Help!

Just curious if anyone knows what is causing my adapted 50mm 1.8 AI nikkor to render some trees with a purple tint? Have attached an example from today. Unedited RAW converted in lightroom (exported as jpg). shot with X-t1

Thanks for the help, I ended up scoring a nice old Nikon 24mm 2.8 AIS for £80

Disappointing, it looks awful. I have (and love) the x-t1 and use it mainly for landscape/wildlife shots- not for its technical prowess- but for how fun it is to use. Its biggest downside for me was the watercolour effect. After seeing this i'm not sure I want to move from x-t1 to t2, especially when a used d810 is comparable in price. I really dislike the watercolour effect and its such a shame that it shows up in (and ruins) so many shots

.....so I performed an experiment with my other camera remote (see attached) - this one is capable of a half-press to trigger a focus but it still doesn't wake the camera from auto power off. This leads me to believe that it's an issue with using the port on the side of the camera that i'm attaching the cable releases to. Do they just not function the same as the regular shutter release on top of the camera?

Thanks for the reply! I had to take a time out from photography, hence the delayed response, but am back now and would love to get a solution to this problem! Could you clarify what you meant for me please? It seems that you're suggesting that I need two separate cables? My understanding of my issue is that my current cable (see attached) is capable of a 'full press' to trigger the shutter release while the camera is switched on, but is incapable of the 'half press' which is what wakes the camera from its auto-power off slumber? Thanks!

thanks, it looks nice but difficult to find in the UK, the cheapest being £190 (far more than the $135 USD elsewhere..) I keep on looking and after much forum scrolling there seem to be a few options but nothing thats a real standout which is a shame.

Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone can shine some light on any excellent & affordable (unicorn) 35mm equivalent legacy lenses for my fuji x-t1. I have a nikkor 50mm 1.8 AI adapted which is absolutely fantastic, i'm hoping to find something that's around 23mm (35mm equivalent). All I can see from nikkor is a 28mm 2.8 which sounds fine, but I have the fuji 35 f2 which is probably a bit close to that(?). Happy to look at other brands but nikkor would be better as I have an nikon f adapter already. My intention is to shoot landscapes so edge-to-edge sharpness is most important and not too bothered about it being fast. thanks! Jake www.jakehphoto.tumblr.com

So heres the plan, I want to use my X-T1 as a camera trap. I have everything I need - camera, flash (SB-28) and a PIR Motion Sensor hooked up to the cable release. I've tested it all, it all works. The trigger releases shutter and the flash wakes up nice and fast to fire. The only problem I have is that the motion sensor (essentially just a cable shutter release) doesn't wake the camera up from Auto power-off (standby) mode. Am I missing something here? A half-press of the shutter button wakes the camera but the cable release doesn't do it. Would love some advice, hopefully i'm missing something or there is a workaround. I'm already well aware that battery life will be an issue and hoping I don't have to leave it on (i'd like to leave it out for more than one night!)

Silkypix is ok for colour but it's no good for everything else. I wish there was one piece of software that had all the bases covered

Ok, so I know this is a discussion that constantly comes up when people talk about software for Fuji - Lightroom vs iridient and so on, but I'm not overly worried about that extra bit of sharpness from iridient (though it would be nice if Lightroom was on par). My main issue is the colours. I love Fuji colours. I love playing with the in-camera film simulations while shooting but I hate the fact that they don't carry over with the raw file. I mean, I know Lightroom has those profiles but they just aren't the same and I'm certainly not about to start shooting jpeg. It just seems like a huge gap in the Fuji ecosystem that needs filling. I'd certainly pay for software that had the workflow and usability of lightroom, sharpness of Iridient and colour information that transfers from the camera... Could this happen, or am I dreaming?

Hi everyone, first time poster here. I'm an amateur landscape & wildlife photographer and have been shooting fuji for a year or two now and absolutely loving the experience. So far my 55-200 has served me well but the sad reality is that it just isn't long enough for most wildlife shots. I'm considering saving up for the 100-400 but am slightly concerned about reports of softening at the long end. I would almost certainly be using it at 300-400 for 99% of my shots so i'm curious about the likelihood of Fuji releasing any longer primes. A 300 2.8 would probably be too big for me as I do more walking around than sitting and waiting. A 300 f4 or 400 f5.6 would definitely grab my attention, especially if it worked well with TC's and incoming X-T2. I'm pretty happy with my 55-200 for now so I'm not in a rush, just interested in whether or not i'll maybe have more than one choice in near the future! See my photos here if you're interested http://jakehphoto.tumblr.com/