johant
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Posts posted by johant
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When focussing (with the MF aids) the image probably appears artificially sharp. How are the photos when you view them on a good monitor?
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Different preferences for different people; that's why there are several options. Glad you enjoy your MF lenses [emoji4]
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I had a Fujifilm S5600, with a SuperCCD sensor. While a great camera in the day, the current cameras are much better (also because the S5600 had a very small sensor).Now have been out of game for a while but have gone back to the beginning of my digital life and got a Fuji only a X-M1 but so far its great ,wish I had kept my first Fuji .
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I am holding my X-Pro1 like this.
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Albé is a small village in the Bas-Rhin department in the Alsace, France
Albé, Alsace, France by Johan Thole, on Flickr
Albé, Alsace, France by Johan Thole, on Flickr
War memorial, Albé by Johan Thole, on Flickr
Église Saint-Wendelin, Albé by Johan Thole, on Flickr
Freedom Tree, Albé, 1795 by Johan Thole, on Flickr -
Classic Chrome is my least favourite film simulation (of the ones I use, at least). On the X-E1, I think Pro Neg Hi with colour +1 captures the good things of Classic Chrome, while leaving out the specific colour cast.
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Very 1980's [emoji14]
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Polarising sunglasses
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Yes, the German repair facility is in Kleve. You can also deal directly with them. They also have a courier service in the Netherlands.kamera express sent my camera to Germany
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View on the Alsace from Mont Sainte-Odile
X100T - BW+Y SOOC JPEG
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Last time (a few months ago) it took Fujifilm in Kleve about four weeks to change the faulty lens of my X100T ... seems to be the standard turnaround time here.
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Coloured focus peaking.
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I did a quick test yesterday; to get everything reasonably sharp at the long end, I have to shoot at f/8 or f/11. Wide open the lens has very soft corners.
Edit: in the past I have tested the 18-135 against the 35/1.4 and the prime blows away the zoom completely.
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Has it worked before?
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We are leaving tomorrow; I packed my 18-135 so that I can test (again). My guess is that I will not use it much.
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I think the 10-24 and the 55-200 would make a good travel kit if you want to take zoom lenses with you.
One thing the 18-135 has over the 55-200; it is a WR lens.
- Highlander123 and glospete
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I have the 18-135 as a travel zoom on my X-T1. It is convenient, but not really good. Not terribly bad either.
For my next trip I only take two primes with me. For a "once in a lifetime" trip I would definitely not use the 18-135.
The photos from Stockholm were made with the 18-135:
Pictures of Stockholm by Johan Thole
Pictures of Stockholm by Johan Thole
- Sapphire73, FenFotos and woodlander
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The question for me is; if the difference is in the JPEG engine, why do I see a difference when processing RAW files as well? An external RAW converter should treat the two sensors the same, right? Did Fujifilm change something in the colour filters on the sensor?
I agree that the X-Pro1 is a great black and white camera.
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After reading stories (a.o. on the German forum) about third party rings with sloppy tolerances (way too tight against the electronic contacts in the camera), I decided to buy the Fujifilm OEM rings. I'd happily pay a bit more for peace of mind.
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A small problem of course, is that the Fujifilm managers have been very outspoken on this topic, and probably for a good reason.
Quoting TAKASHI UENO (Fujifilm senior product planner, Feb. 2016):
"The diameter of our mount was designed for the image circle without IBIS. It means the amount of light at the corners is reduced when the sensor is shifted. We could correct it digitally, but we don’t want to do it: we don’t want to compromise our image quality. [...] Our highest priority is always image quality. We hope you agree!"Given that the laws of physics have not changed ... do they plan to compromise image quality after all? I do not agree then.
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X-T20 have the same rubber feel as the X-T10?
in Fuji X-T2 / Fuji X-T20
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