johant
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Posts posted by johant
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Works perfectly fine in SilkyPix, my day to day RAW converter. All the film simulations (that your camera model supports) are available, plus the SilkyPix standards (which I never use). They are called the "color profiles" in SilkyPix.
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40 minutes ago, Kasumi3344 said:
Irrelevant. A bad product is a bad product. By the way, I have over 10 years shooting photos.
Then buy something different. There are enough choices.
You don't like Fujifilm, and you don't like Sandisk (from reading your posts). Then don't buy them.
BTW, ten years is nothing.
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On 6/23/2020 at 8:30 PM, mawz said:
I'm not sure if the X-E1 can do this.
I used an X-E1 and X-Pro1 for several years. I have always used back button focus.
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@Pierre in my previous job, I traveled almost weekly, and I have never been asked to produce an invoice for my camera. Maybe it depends on whether you have the priority or economy (tourists?) lanes at the airport?
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The X-Pro2 came with a paper manual. Not sure about newer cameras.
The Fujifilm manuals are not great, so you might want to consider a book on the camera.
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I have used the 35/1.4 for over five years now. No complaints from me regarding focus speed; it is fast enough for my purposes (on the X-T1).
Personally I would only choose the XF 35/2 if I needed WR, but that only makes sense on a WR camera, of course.
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Have fun with your Nikon!
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On 6/17/2020 at 4:26 PM, Herco said:
Make sure the optional lens hood works with a bayonet. That's easier than a filter thread screw-in one.
And it's safer. When a screw-in hood takes a hit, the chances are higher that the impact is transmitted to the moving parts of the lens.
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You're looking at the size of the embedded JPEG.
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Is that with both lenses?
It should not matter, in theory, but did you do a full reset of the camera?
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“Silver beats black.” Is that a law, or something?
I only buy used, so it’s a matter of what’s available in my budget. Both have the same features and functions.
I have had silver and black cameras, and I actually don’t care.
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On 6/7/2020 at 6:42 PM, KennyG2019 said:
Same with the X-T100?
When using JPEGs, there is a considerable difference between the X-T100 and X-T20. They have very different JPEG engines.
When using RAW, and your own "recipes", the difference is smaller, but (if you pixel peep) not unnoticable.
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3 hours ago, Pierre said:
I don't want to buy grey market lens or body. Because of no VAT included (illegal in my country, France). You can have problem when crossing borders and have to pay the VAT. And I think grey market product will not be repaired by Fujifilm in my country, I have to send it back to "exotic" seller I don't trust in.
For the first one; how are customs going to prove that you didn't pay VAT? Nobody (when I still travelled) ever asked me for an invoice of my camera. And especially when the camera looks used, I think it would be reasonable when you cannot produce a receipt anymore.
The second one; no Fujifilm service from Fuji Europe is more relevant for me. So far, I got good service from Kleve, but I don't think they would want to repair (for free) a camera or lens that is not covered by EU warranty. For out of warranty repairs, they probably don't care.
So it depends on the savings, and how much could go wrong. I bought my XF 27/2.8 as a grey market item, but I would not do that with e.g. a camera body.
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Put the lock mode on “Switch” instead of “Press”.
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That certainly doesn't look normal. If returning is not an option, I would put a strip of gaffer tape over it.
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On 5/14/2020 at 1:46 PM, StephenPG said:
The removal of the d-pad is a deal breaker for me. I almost exclusively use the viewfinder and having the control to change settings while my eye is close to the camera is the perfect way to work for me.
Indeed. Even just for selecting the AF-points, I preferred the D-pad over the joystick (which is not an improvement at all, in my opinion). And losing the D-pad completely would be a step back in usability for me.
The only thing that is really better using the joystick, is that clicking it brings back the focus point to the middle.
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Yes, I broke the mount on a XC 50-230 several years ago. Apart from that incident, I never had an issue with the plastic mounts. In fact, I sold my XF zooms and only have XC zooms (and XF primes) now.
The XC zooms are lighter and cheaper than the XFs, and optically they are good enough. I don't use them that much anyway; in most cases I prefer primes. In fact, the last two vacations I only used my X100T.
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The current prices are very good indeed.
However, if you want to test the Fujifilm waters first, buying a second hand X-T1 is also an option. Especially when you can get one with one year dealer warranty. They are really inexpensive nowadays, and very good cameras for learning about Fujifilm (and photography).
Focus Point Size in OVF?
in Fuji X-Pro 1 / Fuji X-Pro 2 / Fuji X-Pro 3
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Yes.