donboys

My R2 (Fuji)transmitter no longer displays ttl as a Mode choice on my Fuji Xt2, x100f and x100v. I only see M or -- as options when pushing the mode button. My older R2 Pro model does work in all three modes, M, ttl and --. Problem solved. The newer R2Mark II transmitter has a Shutter option with a choice of either Curtain or Leaf. When Leaf is selected (appropriate for x100) then the only mode choices are M/--. If you select Curtain then the choice become M/TTL/-- . If you select Curtain and use it on the x100 series TTL is an option and my x100 cameras function as expected, I see the expected change as I alter ev. The older R2 Pro model does not give you a shutter choice, so this problem did not occur.

I'm not able to reply to the details but it seems CoC is dependent upon the size (diameter) of the image (i.e. sensor). But the calculation of CoC also depends on arbitrary criteria of acceptable image resolution, arbitrary being the important word. Different standards seem to exist. The purpose of these calculators is to determine the hyperfocal distance, that giving the greatest dod and extending to infinity.

My Fuji xT-1 has a scale showing the dof and focal distance viewable in the LCD and view finder which is very useful to determine hyperfocal distance. By adjusting manual focus twist till the right end of the blue (focus range) band touches infinity. The focus distance, shown in white, is your hyperfocal distance. An iPhone app Tack Sharp, gives the hyperfocal distance for an APS-C sensor, given the focal length and aperture. The two, TS and Fuji, disagree considerably. At 18 mm focal length, f/16, Fuji says hyperfocal about 14 ft, min focus about 7 ft., TS says (for 17mm - doesn’t do 18) hyperfocal distance is 3.2 ft., near focus, 1.5 ft. Why? After contacting Rico Pfirstinger, author of a book on the XT-1, I now know why they differ. Tack Sharp by default uses a 19 micron CoC for the APS_C sensor, Fuji (according to Rico) uses 5 micron CoC for their camera calculation. Tack sharp lets you, in the info panel, adjust the COC. Set it to 5 micron and the Tack Sharp answer agrees a lot better with Fuji. I guess this means unless you need the precision of focus Fuji is trying to achieve don't believe the blue range of focus band. Another iPhone app, Lens-Lab agrees well with Tack Sharp. A Wikipedia article uses 19 micron for the CoC of a APS-C (Nikon) sensor. So what does this all mean? Here is the Tack Sharp for 5 micron CoC and for 19 micron

I almost bought a used one but the lack of a diopter adjustment and the unavailability of the screw on correction lenses was a problem for me. I also didn't know what correction lens I would need for my old eyes even if I could find them.

One of the advantages of the x100 series is the leaf shutter. Because there is an "all open" state for any aperture (to a point) you can expect to shoot with a shutter much faster than the typical sync speed of a focal plane shutter. My experiment has the x100s in manual exposure and the flash set to manual power. I understand that success with fast shutter speeds may require a direct wire connection between flash and camera, radio transmission having internal transmitter/receiver delays that cause the flash to fire after the shutter is open for fast shutter speeds. I verified this with a Cactus v4 system and the Nissin i40. I had success at shutter speeds up to 1/500 s, but by 1/1000 s the flash pulse mostly occurred after the shutter closed. The flash part of the exposure dropped significantly at the faster shutter. I duplicated behavior if I used a Canon compatible ttl cable connecting the two. Somewhere faster than 1/500 shutter the flash exposure drops significantly for apertures f/2 and f/4. Having failed with Nissin i40 I substituted a Nikon SB 700, another smallest flash that would fit in my bag easily. It worked at shutter speeds up to 1/4000 s for both f/2 and f/4 apertures. My guess is that the Nissen flash has a slight internal delay that causes it the fire after the faster shutter. I attach two files, the i40 flash at 1/1000 shutter showing the flash did not illuminate the subject, and the Nikon SB 700 at 1/2000 shutter showing the illuminated subject against a dark background (outdoors).

Antony, Thanks for clearing up my concern. Don

In manual focus mode touching the AF-L button should focus on the particular focus spot. You should see a dot confirming focus and the linear scale showing the focus distance and range of focus (dof). This is called One-Touch-AF. You can alter it with the manual focus dial. In Rico Pfirstinger's The Fujifilm X-T1 you can see a picture of the scale on the lcd on page 93. Next to MF there is a horizontal distance scale and a blue bar showing range of focus. I'm missing this horizontal distance scale even though in the Screen setup menu I request it be shown. The same distance scale is described on page 61 (Manual focus indicator) of the X-T1 manual.

When using my X-T1 with the 14 mm lens I don't see the manual focus indicator bar in either the view finder or LCD when in Manual focus (both camera and lens setting). The focus peak method seems to work, but I have no confirmation of actual focus. In the AF-S mode I see the indicator bar along with focus distance and depth of field on both the view finder and on the lcd. I have the Setup menu set to display it in each. Am I missing something?

I have the Lee Seven5 system for my x100s and now x-T1. I like the ease attaching it to the camera. One caution concerning the filter holder: the plastic filter clips are held to the holder by 4 tiny screws which go into a thin metal base with little depth. I found one screw loose in my camera bag and the small clip for the polarizer there too. Also, all four screw slots were all damaged. I was still able to replace the missing screw into its hole, including the polarizer clip, and then put lock tite on all four screws. Lee offered to replace my screws but failed to actually send them.