Rauber

https://www.fujirumors.com/fujfilm-announcement-coming-within-2-weeks-fujifilm-x-t100-instax-sq6-and-surprises/ The last known information about this camera hint a XT20 sibling with bayer sensor. If Fuji really want to compete with Sonys A6000 then the XT100 need most of the XT20 DNA. Including fast AF with PDAF and a fast framerate of 7+ fps. The A6000 is quite old by today but it offers 11fps and very fast PDAF. If they manage to put very good full HD into the new XT100 it is all I would ask for in a bayer body with EVF. Personally I wish for a XT or XE body with AA-less bayer sensor. I would prefer a XE body with flip screen. But Fuji does not listen to me. ;-)

Simple question: If Fuji would create a medium format X100 would it be any good? What could be expected? How big would it be compared to a X100F? What lens would / should they use? An F2.8 / F4 45mm (35mm FF equiv,)? How useful would it be for landscape, portraiture, ...? Or compared to a X100F? Would you be interested in one? How big of a success might this be? And no I haven't heard about such a rumor yet.

@Dave Rosser In Lightroom you can go to the Camera Calibration tab and use the Red Primary slider to push or remove some red from the whole image. This might help. @TO I used LR, Silky Pix / EX2 and Irident Developer for Fuji images and may could add some findings. I use primary Astia for portraits and upto ISO6400 with AWB all the time. The best results I got so far are from Silky Pix / EX2. It shows that Fuji helped them with the color profiles. They are very close to the OOC colors. Irident is second place but there are different custom profiles that might give you different results. The worst is Lightroom. Sometimes the colors match quite well but sometimes they have nothing in common. Might be an issue of WB too. A problem with the LR profiles is the dark crushing. All LR profiles are to dark. Unfortunately raising the black slider is no cure. Dark details are easily lost and might even be eaten by a posterization effect. I own a X-A1 and a X-T10. My impression is that both perform different with their colors. The X-Trans images lean to the magenta side and the bayer images look more yellow. I prefer the X-A1 results. After playing with the WB of the X-T10 images I think the OP is right. The images need some slight yellow shift to look more healthy.

I started a thread with settings for the Raw File Converter EX2 that is based on Silkypix on dpreview: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4089863 I did some comparison between Lightroom, Irident Developer, Fujis Out of Camera JPEGs and EX2 there. I found EX2 a very capable solution that can compete with IR for sharpness and for colors with Fuji. So I decided to switch my workflow and use EX2 instead of LR.

The problem with Adobe Fuji film simulation is not sharpness. The images are as sharp and detailed as the OOC images. The problem are the blacks. With Adobe Standard you get nice graduated dark details. You can see the folds or structure in black or dark clothing. If you select a single Fuji profile the dark parts went down the drain. They become so dark they seem to clip. Even if you push the shadows by +100 in LR you will not get them back properly. Instead you get a grainy noisy area that looks ugly. If you compare this with the OOC images they don't drop the dark parts to black that much. The details in the dark areas are well preserved like in the Adobe Standard profile. I can only talk about X-Trans I and II. And I have to say that the effect differs between the simulations with Pro Neg Std being the best but noticeable darker than the Adobe Standard profile. The film simulations of Irident Developer only grade the colors and do no gamma correction. So they are a very nice starting point. I tried Silky Pix and he film simulations are brighter than the Adobe ones too but the colors are not as similar to the OOC like the Adobe ones. I own the VSCO film pack with Velvia and Provia but the colors look way different, the contrast is higher and the overall look is different to the Fuji OOC film simulations. And the Adobe film simulation colors are similar but different from the Fuji OOC colors. The OOC JPEG colors have a very fine warm glowing that Adobe can't reproduce... In the end the Adobe images look a little bit flat but the OOC JPEG too. I mean we are talking about nuances here. The average user will not see a difference between most of the images at all.

I had not so much luck with my XT10 last weekend. I used the XF23mm F1.4 on a local festival in a big tent with flashing colored light. ISO 2000 up to 6400. I had a lot of misses ( maybe 1/3 ) through the AF. The green focus box was large enough but in some instances I had to refocus 3 to 4 times before it got the focus right. Maybe the matter was the backlight situation since people most of the time where standing with the back to the lighter scene. Even if I put the sqare on the face or chest it gave me a green box but with focus on the background. Very annoying since I lost some scenes completely. Another think that I can not understand is flash with Fuji cameras. You popup the flash in a dark szene push the trigger and sometimes it doesn't fire... I gave my XT10 away to another person, popped up the flash and started Auto Mode. He took 6 pictures and only 2 times the flash fired. I don't know why. And if you use flash the camera does not adjust ISO for flash. Auto-ISO is at ISO6400 or 4000 when using flash. Does I miss an option?