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owlcavestudios

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About owlcavestudios

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  1. Not in "eye sensor" mode. There is basically a mode for every combo possible. In Eye Sensor mode, when your eye is at the viewfinder, everything shows there (eve, menu, etc). When your eye is NOT at the viewfinder, everything shows on the LCD display. If yours works some other way, then something must be wrong? It doesn't require pushing of buttons to change where things display, just removing the camera from your face. In Viewfinder Only mode, then yes, what you describe is correct. I get your point and I agree that it should be considered a bug or lost feature from the S, but I personally wouldn't consider it significant enough to downgrade. Just me though.
  2. I'll agree with a lot of statements made previously. I also initially was dumbfounded when I came across some settings (not just flash related) that were grayed out with no explanation of why. Just took some monkeying around to figure things out. I'll 2nd the idea of putting the flash settings in the Q menu. I have both flash mode and compensation added there so they are only a couple button presses away at any time. I tend to use the flash with a slight negative compensation most times, as I think that looks the most natural, even in un-natural lighting conditions. I read an article (can't remember where at the moment) that talked about the sweet spot of the X100 series, and they recommended a great daylight portrait "mode" by setting the camera to 1/1000, f2, ISO auto, ND filter ON, and the flash ON. I'll concur, when I'm out in bright daylight, this is a really fun way to take portraits or action shots. The flash is natural and unobtrusive, but really makes the scene, along with the shallow DOF. Most books I've read seem to leave the flash section for last, so they spend the least amount of time talking about it. The info on the flash is usually limited to descriptions of the modes/settings and nothing more. Rico's X-E2 book is probably the closest thing I've found to be useful, even though around half the Flash section doesn't apply due the X100 series leaf shutter. Wish he would write a book on the X100 series (hint hint )!
  3. I'll throw in a vote for the CosySpeed Camslinger 160 for carrying around a small kit. I can fit my X100T plus the WCL adapter and a few memory cards and batteries in mine. I won this bag from a giveaway mentioned by Fuji Rumours last year, and didn't expect to like it at all. After using it for a couple days, it has now become my go-to camera bag. I like the fact that it sits on your waist, instead of hanging on your shoulders. I can carry it much longer than a shoulder bag. And it is pretty compact, so it is easy to hide if you're trying to keep a low profile on the street or somewhere else. They are also doing a crowd funding campaign to make a new version of the bag, with a slightly larger main pocket and a couple external side pockets. I think I'll probably jump on the black one, as its even more discrete than my gray one. The bag I have is really high quality and can take a lot of wear and tear without showing it. Here is the link to their campaign for the new bag. https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/camslinger-streetomatic-street-photography-bag#/story
  4. They would have to sort out how the new autofocus stuff works with the optical viewfinder, which isn't shared with the X-T1(0) cameras obviously. But yeah, other than this, I agree. Same sensor and processor, should be possible.
  5. I wish! According to the kickstarter page, it is 1/3.2", which is the same size as iPhone 4 apparently. Seems promising, and isn't terribly expensive. As long as they address the issues that Lok and Rita from DigitalRev brought up in their review (linked on the kickstarter page), I'd say it could be worth it as a fun toy camera the same as a film holga except without having to deal with film. I will agree with Lok though, the pictures of the prototype they used seem a lot more lifeless than the film versions. Am I surprised? Not exactly.
  6. I won't tell you it is or isn't a good camera for a hobbyist, but I will tell you how I came to buy mine. I started out with a Pentax K1000 back in high school and shot B&W film for years, and reignited my passion for photography a couple years ago and got back into all kinds of film and cameras. I then decided that, given my location, it was more cost effective to buy a digital camera than to continue primarily shooting film and paying for shipping and processing/scanning. I'm a hobbyist photographer as well. I'm no beginner, but I am fairly new to "serious" digital photography. The X100T was my first "serious" digital camera. I have learned to love it (didn't take much to convince me ). I personally wanted the fixed lens camera, as I feel that limitations such as that force me to get creative. I have also now become so familiar with the focal length of the camera that I know roughly where I need to stand to get the shot I want before lifting the camera up to my eye. From a learning perspective, I think starting with limitations like this are important. My first photography class in high school wouldn't allow any automatic cameras or zooms of any sort. Full manual, and 50mm lenses only! You learn how to adapt, and then when you get comfortable with that, you can upgrade into an interchangeable lens camera and branch out. I feel like I'm getting close to that point myself, but just waiting on what new models Fuji will bring next year. I guess there is an argument for getting something like an X-E2 with a prime lens on it at first. Then the transition to other lenses is much cheaper, but I'm fine with my decision to go all out with the X100T. You might want to weigh the other options against this just to be sure what you like.
  7. Of course not! That's not really my point. My point was that the Selphy looks like it was designed to sit on a desktop. It looks like a great printer, just not the same thing as a portable instax printer. The SP-1 would fit in my cosyspeed waist bag, but an Instax Wide printer would of course make me get a bigger bag. However, an Instax Wide printer would most likely be made to be portable and fit into a camera bag. It can't be as big as an instax wide camera now can it? I know photographers that toss one of those in their camera bag for fun. I didn't think this far into my comment above, but yeah, that's about what I meant . What do you sell more of, the cameras or the film? I don't know honestly, but I'd be interested to see the actual numbers on which part of the instax family is driving profitability more.
  8. The problem with a Canon Selphy is you can't put it in your camera bag. I would be all over an Instax Share "Wide" printer that would work with my X100T! I mean, Instax is supposedly the most profitable part of the Fuji imaging division, right?
  9. You can download a digital copy directly from Rocky Nook now. But yeah, as far as the hard copy goes, you're right. Looks like it won't be shipping til later.
  10. Thanks graflex and flysurfer! I think this all makes sense to me now.
  11. So I was under the impression that the DR settings had no effect on the raw file (aside from the bump in ISO). Speaking for raw processing only, couldn't I achieve similar highlight recovery by under exposing 1 or 2 stops (for DR200 and DR400 respectively) with DR set to 100%, or are you saying that Iridient (or other raw processor) is looking for some DR tag in the metadata to do this? The reason I ask, is I'm shooting raw with my X100T, and instead of turning DR on, I keep it off and rely on the Natural Live View histogram to not blow highlights or block shadows. I think I'm essentially doing the same thing, but with more resolution (not just whole stop steps). I'm sure Fuji's behind the scenes process for DR is more elaborate, but I have gotten pretty impressive (only to me probably ) results with regards to highlight recovery and dynamic range with just monkeying with the exposure, highlights, and shadows sliders in LR. I wouldn't say it is "basically impossible" to achieve similar results to your example above in LR. I'm far from a LR expert, and I don't have a great deal of experience at all with Iridient Developer though FWIW. As a mainly raw shooter, I just like to know which in-camera settings directly affect the raw capture, so I can understand what my camera is doing. So if the DR setting is only affecting the ISO, then I will keep it off and manage that under exposure myself. If there's something more going on, it would be great to know!
  12. This is how most other forums I belong to operate. The buyer specifies where in the world he/she is willing to ship, and that's that. If a seller outside those specified areas really wants to try, and the seller is ok with it too, it will be up to buyer to decide if paying the crazy shipping charges is worth it. But most cases, buyers stick to sellers that will ship to them. Start the post title with where you are willing to ship, like WW for worldwide, EU, US, etc?
  13. X100T with the WCL-X100 Butterfly on the Greenway by kyle Hunt, on Flickr
  14. Yeah, I was hoping (but realistically not expecting) that WR would be one of the new features when they released the T. I take mine out in wet conditions, and it's been fine so far. I'm not letting rain just blatantly dump on it of course. I'm trying to keep it dry, but it has gotten some pretty heavy snowfall on it, and some moderate rain on it with no problems at all. I just make sure to dry it off completely and let it air out immediately after I get back inside.
  15. Ok, so found it in a version of the manual at least. That's half the battle! http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x100t/menu_setup/screen_set-up/ It's called Framing Guidlines, and you have a couple options as to how many lines you get. I'm pretty sure the main menu heading isn't called "Screen Settings" but I can't for the life of me remember what it actually is.
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