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  1. It is interesting that the 8mm is for APSC but gives a full circle on FF and GFX. The Samyang/rokinon/etc 12mm fishheye is designed for FF and would be very interesting to try on the GFX! They are both stereoscopic projection, and surprisingly high quality for the price. The projection is much more useful (a bit less fishy) for general use.
  2. Just copy text and paste in google translate...
  3. Cambo Actus GFX is much handier than a typical view camera and might be a viable option.
  4. If the program is able to use the camera engine to process the files into 16-bit TIFF files, I will be ecstatic! Fuji does seem to know best how to process their own files for optimum results. The only issue so far is that if you want to do significant post processing, you will want access to 16bit data. If Fuji supports this, it will be a huge step forward. Imagine getting the benefits of Fuji's understanding of images (very deep from decades producing lenses, cameras and film even before there was digital), combined with the well-developed film simulations while still maintaining the full bit-depth captured by the camera.
  5. This is the lens. It has distortion. You need to apply correction. Adobe is correcting the lens flaw automagically. C1 has a lens correction feature and if it isn't built in, you can put it in yourself. In any case, it seems the statements above that C1 doesn't work with the Xpro2 are just mistaken.
  6. I'm confused. What capture one version do you have? I am looking at a file I shot with the XPro2 on screen in C1 Pro and it is rendered. I then set a process recipe to load it as a 16bit TIFF in Photoshop CC, which it was able to do. What am I missing?
  7. At first it was the 35/1.4 100% (unless you count legacy lenses). I got it with the Xpro1 and, even though I intended from the start to get another lens, I think it took a year or so before I did. If I could have only one lens, it would be the 35 f1.4. Since I got the 16mm f1.4 and the 56mm APD f1.2, I tended to use the 16 the most, followed by the 56 with the XP1. The 35 saw far less use unless I wanted to travel light with only one lens. Now that the XP2 has arrived, I find my preference is the 35 with Acros when I'm just going out for fun . But this is recent enough that I would still say 16 followed by 56, which is my ideal combo for more serious efforts.
  8. I have not stopped shooting Acros sice I got it . Shooting RAW + JPEG. A few thoughts for those who prefer RAW: Try Capture One. It does a much better job with Fuji files than Adobe. The difference is noticeable even on screen without zooming in. Download the free trial and see for yourself. TKactions plugin for Photoshop is very handy for the efficient use of luminosity masks to adjust images. You can do all the adjustments by hand (and information on the website explains how), but it's tedious. With the panel, which is useful in many ways, you can very efficiently try things out. I only wish it supported LAB. There is an add-on, which I haven't used yet (waiting on the upgrade offer), which looks very promising. The videos offered for sale which explain Luminosity masks were helpful.
  9. The size and weight of the lens make a big difference in how handy it is to use. Some lenses are easier to focus than others. The Nikon 105mm f2.5 is great, easy to focus and balances well. In fact, it focuses pretty accurately on the EVF without magnification. I love my 85mm f1.4 lens, but it does not balance well on the camera, so it is a pain to use if not on a tripod. Which camera you are using might make a difference. Battery grip or other grip (depending on which camera you have) can also make a difference.
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