Tikcus

If Fuji make a fisheye I would prefer they go down the Sony route, and make a normal lens with an optional adapter.
 
 More lenses would sell, then the people that want the fisheye adapter could buy the optional adapter

Thanks for the answers I was just playing with all the wheels and buttons and just notice that when turning the wheel nothing happen.
 
I'm new to Fuji after 21 years of Nikon and I'm kinda lost.

Exposure compensation does nothing when you are in Full manual exposure mode
 
What you are seeing on screen is the light meter which shows how many stops you are over or under exposed by.
 
In full manual mode if you need to adjust exposure change the Aperture, Shutterspeed, or ISO

Exposure compensation does nothing when you are in Full manual exposure mode
 
What you are seeing on screen is the light meter which shows how many stops you are over or under exposed by.
 
In full manual mode if you need to adjust exposure change the Aperture, Shutterspeed, or ISO

The sony pancake power zoom 16-50 kit lens is 30mm (selp1650) 
 
the xf18-55 is 70.4mm (at 18mm)
the xc16-50 is 65.2mm (at 16mm)
 
so being 10-20mm shorter shouldn't be a problem for Fuji, as it is an XC lens it will probably be an F/3.5 - 5.6 like the current XC16-50
 
at least in the uk Fujifilm currently has 3 options on the XT20 and XE3 (only the XT is shipped with the XC as an option)
 
Body only (£849.00) (both cameras)
XT20 With XF18-55 (£1149.00)
XE3 With XF18-55 (£1249.00)
Then things change the XT20 is also offered with the XC16-50 (£949.00)
The XE3 is offered with XF23mm F/2 (£1149.00)
 
Not sure why the XF18-55 is £100 more on an XE3, as body price is the same, only reason I can think of is the XF18-55 list price is significantly higher than the XF23 f/2. but still sees to make the XT a better purchase if you wanted the XF18-55

The 35mm is the only lens I could not live without.
For me it is the perfect lens for low light/Street portraits with or without a Shallow DOF, and I have used it in a studio for portrait shoots.
 
For street I have never really had an issue zooming out with my feet if it was needed for framing, however for cityscapes (especially on a recent visit to New York) , I find the 18mm a better focal length.
 
I do not own the 23mm but it is also not a lens I intend to get, I guess I am just happy using "one of the most over-rated lenses in the history of photography" as my go to lens
 
I'm also a believer in finding a way to get your shots with the equipment you have

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

I can't speak for the X-T20, but on my X-T10 (where there is no performace improvment apparently) on the NP-W126s I was shooting an event using the XF 35 F/1.4, no flash, manual exposure, I took over 500 phtographs on 1 charge, I'm lucky to get 300 from the original version

I'm a prime shooter, and pretty much only use the 35mm F/1.4 and zooming with my feet. (18mm in my pocket maybe or on a 2nd body)
But, if I truly don't know what i'm shooting I'd happily take a zoom instead/aswell.
 
I'd never think of changing lenses on a beach etc, but I rarely feel the need to change lenses in the short (sub 60mm region).
If you need to change lenses because the situations arises (e.g. can't zoom with feet) if you no longer have the 18-55 is taking a 2nd body an option? (a 2nd hand XE-2 body is cheaper than the 18-55 at least here in UK)

I can't speak for the X-T20, but on my X-T10 (where there is no performace improvment apparently) on the NP-W126s I was shooting an event using the XF 35 F/1.4, no flash, manual exposure, I took over 500 phtographs on 1 charge, I'm lucky to get 300 from the original version

On my XT-10, I use Hoyo Pro protection filters on the lens.
Battery wise The Fuji originals provide the most shots per use (but are a lot more expensive)
I've never scratched my screen yet and didn't bother with a protector
 
Apart from the filters and a few batteries the only non Fiji accessory I own are bags and nissin i40s flashes (and studio flash equipment)
I like the Fuji hand strap, makes it almost impossible to drop the camera

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation.
When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement)
 
All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake.
 
But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake.
 
I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

without examples i'm assuming you are focussing on a flat object at fixed distance to compare?
 
As Shooting wide open on a telephoto zoom lens will give you a shallow depth of field with potentially only a few cm of sharp focus
 
at F/2.8 @ 140mm on APSC sensor with a focus distance of 5 meters
 
 
Nearest Acceptable Sharpness: 4.93 meters Furthest Acceptable Sharpness: 5.07 meters Total Depth of Field: 0.15 meters (15 cm)  
Where as on a wide angle lens
at F/1.4 @ 16mm on APSC sensor with a focus distance of 5 meters
 
Nearest Acceptable Sharpness: 3.18 meters Furthest Acceptable Sharpness: 11.75 meters  
you have a total Depth of field of 8.57 meters
 
So without examples can only post the physics

I do a lot of event shooting in poor lighting conditions, my go to lens is the XF35 F/1.4, on an X-T10, I can only talk about lens I've used (I do occasionally wish for the XF56 F/1.2)
 
I use the XF35 F/1.4 for most of my photography, it is the lens that lives on my camera - Outside portraits, street and everything else
I use the 18mm F/2 if i'm walking around a city want to get more buildings/cityscapes, landscapes etc (the 18mm F/2 is small enough to sit in my pocket when the 35 F/1.4 is on my camera
 
the 27mm F/2.8 is an interesting lens, optically there is nothing wrong with it, but I don't find either the 18 or 35 large when on the camera, the focal length sits between the two and doesn't get a huge amount of use as I find one of the other lenses just sits better with me, whether it is the lack of aperture ring, or that it is so close to the 35mm in length (a few steps forwards or back is the difference), but lacks its magic, idk, I suspect if I didn't have the XF35 F/1.4 the 27mm may have been my go to lens for everyday shooting; as you already own the 23mm the 27mm is a stop slower and a similar length personally I'd skip it.
 
the 60mm F/2.4 is a great lens (slow to focus when doing macro work), I use this lens a lot in the studio and have no issues with focusing speeds, I suspect a great deal of focal length cross over with the XF56 though; if I didn't own the XF60 the XF56 would be top of my shopping list, but as I generally use the XF35 F/1.4 for shallow DOF portraits outside, and the XF60 F/2.4 for studio work I can't justify it. If I owned the XF56 F/1.2 I'd be tempted to either wait for the XF80mm macro lens or look at a third party solution for macro work.

90mm is too long for my tastes, I use he 35mm F/1.4 for environmental portraits or the 60mm F/2.4. 90mm puts me too far away from the model.
If you're shooting more than headshots, you need a lot of space to use the 90mm

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation.
When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement)
 
All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake.
 
But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake.
 
I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation.
When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement)
 
All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake.
 
But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake.
 
I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation.
When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement)
 
All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake.
 
But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake.
 
I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

if you shoot concerts or acts on stage at less than 1/125s I'd imagine the motion blur is present on almost every photo, if that is the look you're going for that's your artist interpretation.
When i shoot events I'd much rather have a usable high ISO, than be able to slow the shutter speed, as I generally do not want motion blur on the acts i'm photographing. (the exception being if I want to show movement)
 
All IBIS or OIS does is allow you to use a slower shutter speed, on long lenses > 100mm it is an advantage being able to use a shutter speed of 1/60 seconds without camera shake.
 
But shooting a 50mm/35mm lens (or wider) it makes no difference, as less than 1/60s motion blur will appear on anything that moves, and shooting a 35mm lens at 1/60s or faster there is no camera shake.
 
I also do plenty of candid street photography, again never missed a shot because of no ibis, as I'd never be using a shutter speed so slow camera shake became an issue before motion blur did

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

This probably has a lot more todo with future Video features than photography, maybe the new Super X mount camera that was rumoured.
 
In photography IBIS has limited usefulness (same as OIS on <100mm lens), being able to hand hold a shot at 1/4 second using a 35mm lens is of little use unless your subject is stationary
You may not have camera shake but you replace that with motion blur.
 
I honestly can't think of a usage for IBIS for photography, that the 16-50, 18-55, or 18-135 lens can not do with their OIS
Architecture or landscape shots at night without a tripod, since you are using F8/11/16/22 to get the required DOF all those can be done with lens with OIS that are available now.
 
Don't get me wrong for handheld video it will be great, but for photography I can not see the point other than a tick box item

Right I have set my XT-10 to change ISO from front button/Dial
 
Step 1 - enter Blue Menu 2
Step 2- Button/Dial Settings
Step 3 - Command Dial settings - Set to ^F v S.S
Step 4 - Change Fn2 to ISO
 
So Now, the Rear dial changes Shutter Speed 1/3 stops
Front dial when button pressed brings up iso menu and dial left/right changes ISO value
 
Unfortunately you need to press the dial in before you can change ISO, but hope this helps