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Seattle Japanese Garden X100f

This is the best thing since sliced bread. Thanks for the info! It let’s me rest my thumb comfortably while keeping the q button safe from nuisance pushes. I got mine in black:

Thumb grips are useful for rangefinder style Fujis but I never felt the need for my XT1/2. Because I use back focus, it actually got in the way sometimes and I wound up selling it.

I'm on the fence. It's a cool lens for sure, but the focal length is so close to the 23mm...It would be an excellent video lens but I don't shoot video much.

Cool lens I picked up. It's pretty big and heavy, but balances well on my X-T1. It focuses to less than 6" allowing it to be both wide angle and macro.

I've been using Capture One Pro 9 for the past year. It works great with RAF files and even has the Fuji presets.

I bought 2 different adapters, a Dollice and a Fotasy - the cheapest ones on Amazon. They both work perfectly adapting Cron 50, Cron-c 40, Elmarit-c 90, Summarit 35/2.4 and Summaron 35 to my XT1. Focus peaking works great, allowing me to get the Leica look on my Fuji.

Helios 44-2 58/2 is an interesting lens. Cheaper than the Canon FD or Takumar 50/1.4 lenses. I still have the Canon and Pentax but sold the Helios and regret it every now and then. Google it and you'll see a lot of examples of its distinctive rendering. I got mine in mint condition from Russia for about $35 shipped on eBay.

Most vintage 50/1.4 lenses work very well with XT-1. I also have the Takumar SMC 50/1.4 and Summicron 50/2 as well as the previously mentioned FD 50/1.4. Any of them could fill the role of a portrait lens as each of them are very sharp. The Canon I got for $40 and Takumar for $50 attached to a spotmatic F which I in turn replaced the seal and sold for $120. Both were in like new condition. Good, cheap lenses are out there.

I'd recommend Super Takumar 50mm f4 lens, the preset version that does 1:1. You should be able to get it for around $120. It is very compact and sharp. I've tried Canon, Olympus, and Minolta 50mm f3.5 lenses. They are cheaper with fine IQ but aren't true 1:1 lenses.

Film definitely has a look that I still can't replicate digitally. The cameras themselves are also marvelous machines that modern cameras can't match. I don't have any scientific data to back this up (only my eyes), but as far as resolution and clarity is concerned, film can't touch digital.

Thank you for this! Much appreciated. As a previous member commented, it works well in Windows 10.

I have a Fuji 35/2 and 18-55 remaining for my XT1, along with an X100T. I used to have Fuji 18/2, 27/2.8, 35/1.4, 56/1.2 and 55-200, but sold them and acquired these vintage lenses over the past 2 years: Canon FD: 28/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 Takumar: 50/4 Macro, 50/1.4, 105/2.8 Olympus OM; 135/3.5, 200/4 Osawa: 650/8 Mirror Helios 44-2: 58/2 I picked up a Rokinon 12/2 somewhere along the way as well. The cost of all the non-Fuji lenses were about 1/3 the original cost of the Fuji lenses I sold. For those instances when I absolutely need autofocus, I'll use Fuji lenses. The 2 I have seem to fill most of my needs. For travel and street, the X00T has become my go to camera and the 23mm my everyday FOV. For all other occasions, I find that the vintage lenses are simply more interesting in every way. Not better, mind you, but more fun. If getting the best, sharpest picture is your goal, get Fuji lenses. If price is an issue and/or you want more variety, go for vintage. If cost is not an object, get BOTH.

Deleted - had wrong information.

$1000 is nothing to scoff at. Treat it with respect, and it'll serve you well, I say.

mvlow, I know what you mean about Velcro and I'm happy to report that hood hats don't have any and are dust RESISTANT. Anything that gets on it can be easily wiped off.

+1 for the hood hats. Those things are awesome. I use it on my X100T with hood on. For lenses without hoods, I use generic center-pinch lens caps for my vintage lenses. There is no reason to spend 10 times more for genuine brand name caps. I haven't lost any of my Fuji caps yet, but you can get an off brand one for a $1 or 2.

I wouldn't mind having more control when using the remote app. Having the ability to change the drive or timer would be nice.

I just received my SP-2 and it is fantastic. Test prints from my iPhone, X100T and XT-1 were problem-free and fast. It's a great conversation starter, a pleasant way to make a connection with people.

I use a EF-X20 with a cheap flash cord just in case I want to change the direction of the flash. I sold my EF-X8 (the flash that came with XT-1) as soon as I got it for $35, I think. The EF-X20 isn't much bigger, but about 10 times better in my opinion and best used in tandem with X100 cameras. For my XT-1, however, I like to use Nissin i40, simply to take advantage of the high speed sync ability of the flash. Of course it's only useful during daytime and you may wonder why anyone would use flash with sunlight, but I think using fill flash makes the results go from ordinary point and shoot to the next level, where some thought has gone through the process. You can use EF-X20 with XT-1 of course, but you won't be able to sync it faster than 1/180th of a second, making the flash pretty much useless in sunlight unless you have a stack of ND filters. People argue about whether to get a 23mm lens or an X100T, but for me, it's a no-brainer. The leaf shutter of the X100T allows it to sync with either the EF-X20 or the i40 at pretty much any speed. Plus it comes with a 3-stop ND filter built into the camera.

It says it is genuine leather on the product information page, but the price is very low... PU definitely has that plastic/oil smell to it. I agree with previous comments, let your nose decide.

I would take the 18-135 and 35/2 since they are weather resistant. (I'm assuming your camera is WR as well?) 18-135 on most of the time and 35 when you are inside and need a faster lens. I've gone on many trips with my XT-1 and those 2 lenses and haven't missed anything. When weather isn't too big a concern, I actually prefer the 18-55 and 35. I've also taken telephotos, but on vacations I tend to take more wide than long for some reason and the lens becomes extra weight. Don't forget to take a small flash with you also. Some of my favorites images were taken at night.

Not bad, if they are in like-new condition, but not great. As a comparison, I got my used graphite XT-1, 18-55, and 55-200 in excellent condition for $1200 earlier this year. It was a steal, I think, so may not be a fair comparison, but the deals are out there if you are patient, especially with the XT-2 coming out soon.

Just wanted to chime in. Rokinon 85/1.4 is an excellent lens for the price. It's sharp with good colors and a pleasant bokeh, but it's HUGE. For that reason, I find I use much smaller and cheaper vintage lenses like a Takumar 105/2.8 or Olympus OM 135/3.5 when I'm outside even though the Rokinon is faster and it's IQ a whole lot better. If I'm shooting inside without much moving about, it's the Rokinon every time.

I have an XT-1. Set it to manual mode and press the AFL button to focus. This has been my preferred method to shoot with all my Fuji's and I'm pretty sure they all work the same way. My X100T has a combined AEL/AFL button but functions the same way in the manual mode, as did my XPro-1 (I think) when I had it. Hope this helps.