Toon

For daily use:
 
 
1. Billingham Hadley Pro : 3 Lens + Body + Accessories + Ipad + Thermos (daily commuting)
 
2. F Stop Millar : 3 Lens + Body + Accessories + Small Thermos (for sketchy neighborhoods)
 
For Hiking/Camping:
 
1. Lowepro Flipside 15L : 4 lens + Body + Accessories + Tripod
 
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This setup works for me because I like everything in one bag. Plus, they are all water proof. I don't shy away from rain so the bags needs to keep the water out...for awhile at least.
 
Btw - body is X-T1  

Hi Guys,
 
I've been saving up for the XF56 for a while now (eyeing the APD) and all of a sudden FUJI decides to throw in a curve by teasing the XF90. I'm at a crossroads and need your thoughts on what lens to buy first. I'll be using it predominately for portraits.
 
Thanks for all your thoughts in advance.

I agree with this. I bought the lens, found the AF to be a bit slow but everything else about it is well worth the price point imo. For me, it was a great introductory lens for portraits.

Came across this today....the Nikon Coolpix P900 with a built in 83x digital zoom lens. Some of you may have seen this, but it's the first for me and I was...floored.
 
Here's a GIF
 

 
   
 
And here's a few youtube link:
 
9 km zoom - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc270Mx9vbU
The moon - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfshAzV0FN4
 
Thought I'd share this crazyness. 

I was at Brighton in windy conditions with a lot of spray close to the waters edge for about half an hour with no problems, and the 14mm was on at the time, of course another half hour was spent cleaning after.

3-4 hours in crappy high up in the mountain typical British weather type of conditions. Camera attached to backback via Capture Clip with lens pointing down. Just seemed to run off with no misting, well, the gales probably blew a lot off as well!
 
It was a bit annoying looking through a wet view finder though! I have the camera to hand waiting for breaks in the cloud etc. Got some great snow storm shots of the Torridon mountains this way, 12 shots stitched together. Good fun!
 
Before risking it though and Knowing what could happen in the mountains, I tested it out by placing the camera in the shower while switched on for 5-10 mins..... gave the bugga a socking it would truly remember. When it survived that, I knew I could take it out and not give a flying F..... whether the heavens opened or not. Don't have time to pack and unpack gear every 5 mins, besides, by the time you get it out the opportunity has often gone.
 
Edit.
Just to point out, with the lens pointing down, the lens mount is more or less completely sheltered from the rain. I'd consider this being the weakest link in the damp proofing chain!

I personally chose the black. The silver looks very lux and attractive but if you like to photograph in the city at night and or in dodgy neighborhoods, very poor rural areas around the world, then the black is super incognito while I think the silver draws a lot of attention (cause it looks soo good). Just my thoughts..

I personally chose the black. The silver looks very lux and attractive but if you like to photograph in the city at night and or in dodgy neighborhoods, very poor rural areas around the world, then the black is super incognito while I think the silver draws a lot of attention (cause it looks soo good). Just my thoughts..

Few people ever gather the necessary know how to produce the optimum results when printing anything above and beyond the capabilities of their home printers. Only few people, after all, own the expensive systems allowing for very large prints.
 
So, if one is using a printing service, it is worth asking them what kind of adjustments would be best being applied and the level of adjustment which they might be routinely be making (and in that case avoid performing potentially damaging operations twice).
 
They generally have these descriptions on line ( this is the first one I’ve found and simply explanatory of what I mean by instructions).
 
http://www.fineprintimaging.com/print_services/photo_prints/preparing_your_files.htm

I have printed a nice sharp image that was approx 8 - 10 megapixel as a 2ft x 3ft stretched canvas.  I have a few of them from yester-year.  They all look excellent.  Canvas is a more forgiving medium to print on.  Remember, viewing distance (optimal) is at least 2x the vertical size of the print.  Its ok for an image to not be perfectly sharp or noise free ... it is the subject matter that people will notice and the large 'wow factor' from it being nice and big.  Only you will be the one to notice and give a care about the technical details.  People can print larger than they think from just listening to others on the web.  I have found from experience that I can print twice as large as what a print shop recommends and still be quite happy with the results. 
 
What people don't realize is the image needs to be pre-sharpened before printing and the pre-sharpening needs to be stronger than they would think it should be.  It may look oversharpened on your screen, but it will print great.  Your screen and print material (paper, canvas, metal, etc) show the image different, so if it looks oversharpened on the screen, it will probably be just right for print.  But trial and error and experimenting is without a doubt the best approach.  Have fun!

I did a test this morning of the new firmware, using the 16-55 f/2.8 lens. The lighting was very poor and subject was backlit, a situation which used to cause this camera a lot of problems. The camera was in CL mode, auto ISO (varied between 400 and 800), f/2.8, 1/125 shutter and I used the central af point (smallest size) aimed at the school badge.
 
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-1.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-2.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-3.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-4.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-5.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-6.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-7.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-8.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-9.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-10.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-11.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-12.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-13.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-14.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-15.jpg
http://sandsphoto.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/backlit-16.jpg
 
You can draw your own conclusions, but I was impressed with the improvement.

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Hi All,
 
In case anyone wants to know what each of the new AF zones are in detail, FUJI created a special site to explain this here. Enjoy the 4.0!! 

Testing after an almost sleepless night
 
 

I have the Lee Seven5 system for my x100s and now x-T1.  I like the ease attaching it to the camera. One caution concerning the filter holder: the plastic filter clips are held to the holder by 4 tiny screws which go into a thin metal base with little depth. I found one screw loose in my camera bag and the small clip for the polarizer there too. Also, all four screw slots were all damaged. I was still able to replace the missing screw into its hole, including the polarizer clip, and then put lock tite on all four screws. Lee offered to replace my screws but failed to actually send them. 

Thanks for the info on peak design. I bought a camera strap from DSPTCH because of their release system, but by the looks of it, I like peak design's approach a bit better,

Yes yes yes...buy the lens that fit your work/photographic needs. We all know this, but it doesn't stop us photographers from salivating over other lenses that we might not actually 'need' but rather 'want' for some reason or another. I have this problem and I will eventually find the means/reason to buy them lol. In the meanwhile, here's my wishlist...
 
1. XF16-55 F2.8 R LM WR (want to sell of the XF 18-55 for this)
 
2. XF50-140 F2.8 R LM OIS WR
 
3. XF56 F1.2R APD
 
4. XF10-24 F4 R OIS (pls Fuji...make a WR version for this lens....pls)
 
 
What are some of yours?

Yes I did! After carefully reading everyone's comments, I decided on the 56mm for now. I like to get close (not too close) to my subject so (bokeh prefs aside) working with the 56 should be ok. Also, after playing around with my friend's Canon 135mm F2L lens (going back to FF felt...heavy haha), I found it a bit far for me. I kinda felt detached from my subject and that felt a bit off to me so....the 56mm should work out better  .

14 x 23 x 56 would be my ideal kit. It's actually what I'm aiming for...just need the 56 and it'll be complete.
 
edit - The nerd in me decided to tally up the choices so far. This is not 100% accurate, it's just for fun. I wanted to see what the majority decided on. Check it out.
 
14mm - 38
16mm - 39
18mm - 9
23mm - 42
27mm - 9
35mm - 40
56mm - 57
60mm - 6
90mm - 18
 
So far, the majority of the people chose 14mm&16mm (close), 23mm&35mm (another close one) and 56mm. Feel free to draw your own conclusions 

I personally chose the black. The silver looks very lux and attractive but if you like to photograph in the city at night and or in dodgy neighborhoods, very poor rural areas around the world, then the black is super incognito while I think the silver draws a lot of attention (cause it looks soo good). Just my thoughts..

I'm Benjamin, a Fuji addict living in Melbourne, Australia.
 
I work as a designer and photographer for Vice, and mostly enjoy shooting street, editorial and portraiture.
 
Sold my 6d a year ago and haven't looked back. Currently shooting with the x-t1 and x100t. Plus always carry the x-e1 w/27mm in my backpack.
 
http://instagram.com/benjamin_thomson