Omar Alamoudi

I have an X-T1 as well, and already placed my pre-order for the X100V. I contemplated the X-Pro3, but its too large for the purpose that I would want it for. I think the X100 series is hard to replace if you want something small but mighty. If you want the X100V for the size, the X-Pro3 is noticeably larger even when using it with the 27mm (I had the change to check out a pre-production unit).
 
Don't forget, the X-T4 is also about to come out, I think I'm going to sell a kidney, and get me one of those too lol

Hello Casper,
I used to shoot Nikon until 2015 when I bought my first Fujifilm X-T1 which I still use today. I think you will find the reduction in weight and size very advantageous, enjoy it.
Omar

Welcome to the forum @Akritas, I'm new here too, and I share with you, and with many other members this forum, the main attraction of the Fujifilm X-Series size and very attractive looks! 
TL;DR: any X-Series camera (including the older, significantly more affordable ones) + XF35mm is a great place to start. 
I am a hobbyist as well, and used to shoot Nikon (D90 then D7000). I "converted" to Fujifilm in 2015 when I bought the X-T1 with the 18-55mm kit lens. My love to the X system has since grown. And the bulky Nikon system is gone.
I carry my X-T1 camera everywhere, I sometimes annoy myself carrying it around without the finding the ability to use it. But it is one of those things: you use it once, you love it, and you carry it around everywhere because you don't want to miss an opportunity to use it.
I recently bought the X100F, because why not. Actually, for two reasons. The first one is that I wanted to experience the liberty of limiting my choice (rolling eyes). The second reason was the even smaller form factor. Let me explain. I love my X-T1, and my favorite lens is, hands down, the 35mm f/1.4. But since I have 4 other primes, its takes me sometime to decide which prime to take with me. So eliminating that choice by the fixed lens X100F is kinda liberating.
So, is buying the X100F worth it? Well, after using the X100F for a few days, I realized that I have an almost equivalent focal length XF lens, the 27mm pancake lens that I can use with my X-T1. So the question became, will an X-T1 + 27mm pancake lens be comparable in size with the X100F? The answer is YES. So I sold the X100F, and started using the X-T1 + 27mm pancake lens until the XF27mm failed, now I'm back to the game of wasting time deciding which of my primes to take with me lol. However, I find myself falling back on using the X-T1 + 35mm f/1.4 more than the rest of my lens due to its size, focal length, weight, and quality of images.
 
My XF primes are: 
35mm f/1.4 56mm f/1.2 27mm f/2.8 90mm f/2.0 23mm f/1.4 

I have an X-T1 as well, and already placed my pre-order for the X100V. I contemplated the X-Pro3, but its too large for the purpose that I would want it for. I think the X100 series is hard to replace if you want something small but mighty. If you want the X100V for the size, the X-Pro3 is noticeably larger even when using it with the 27mm (I had the change to check out a pre-production unit).
 
Don't forget, the X-T4 is also about to come out, I think I'm going to sell a kidney, and get me one of those too lol

A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions  others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
AFL Button not working
If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
  Shutter not working with adapted lens
Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
  Flash not working
Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). 
  Can’t select ISO100
Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
  Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets
The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
  Autofocus not working anymore
If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
  Locking D-Pad and Q button
Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
  Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
  The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
  The camera appears to be dead
If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
  Dead or stuck pixels
If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.  Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.

Long time Nikon shooter(professionally for 10 years, retired from that) who hasn't really had much motivation to shoot the last few years. Burnt out? Decided to ditch the old gear and get myself a little Fuji kit - X-T2, 23/2, 35/1.4 and am once again feeling excited about shooting personal photos and projects. My only experience with Fuji was several years ago when I owned a X100 for two or so years but I do recall really enjoying that. Hoping to pop in here from time to time. 

I have an X-Pro3 and preordered the X100V last week..   As much as I like the X-Pro3 I find myself more excited about the X100V...  Wish it would hurry up and release...

Hello Omar. The name plate has adhesive tape under it. I'd recommend to use more slim tool like on this picture.
 

Hello everyone,
New to the forum and new (again) to the Fuji system. My first one was the original X100 limited edition, beautiful camera that I regret selling it. You know, victim of G.A.S. Many systems later and after reviewing those beautiful files I found from my old camera, I decided to get back in track and bought myself a silver XT3, with the 18-55mm, 23mm f2, 35mm f1.4 and 60mm 2.4. I took it for a spin last November in China and I enjoy it very, very much. 
I am ready to learn and share our passion, glad to be here! I am leaving one of my favorite pics (panorama made with 3 RAW files) taken with the XT3 and the 18-55mm.
Ricardo
 

Green Iguana shot @ Delray Beach Florida.
File Name: D:\Fuji\Green-Iguana-1.jpg

X-T2
1/60 sec
f/8
ISO 640
Metering Mode: Spot
Focal Length: 400 mm
 

It may be gear problem due to use time. There are few blocking stoppers keeping focusing range and they may crack over time allowing lens to overfocus causing error.
Another problem - could be electronics, common recommendation is to try to clean the lens contacts and see if it helps.
Can you write more about your lens symptoms? I'll try to help discover what is wrong with it.
If the lens is not repairable, then it can be reused to create manual focus mod of XF 27mm with constant F2.8.
At your place I'd try to find the way to repair the lens, and if that is not possible would sell it for parts and purchase new one on eBay - there are plenty of them for about $200

(Re: my post from 17.9.18 above) I did eventually get mine repaired. It was a focus motor failure. Very quick service from Fuji UK - it set me back £80. No problems since.