BarwickGreen

I managed to grab a few shots on my way to a meeting in London yesterday. I'm really pleased with the way the camera performed and it was great fun to use.
https://flic.kr/p/yacmJJ

I was looking for something to replace my LX7 when I moved from Micro Four-Thirds. I had an XM1 but found it a little too big for a "take everywhere" camera, because the X mount lenses are quite large.Today a mint used X30 arrived, and I have to say I love it already. Yes, of course the sensor could do with being bigger, and I would like it to have a 10x zoom lens and fit in my trouser pocket, but it is always about compromise and for me this is the perfect "little camera" to use when I don't want to carry the X-T1. 

I recently moved from Lumix to Fuji X-T1 (and no regrets) but sensor cleaning is an issue. In all the years I owned numerous Lumix micro four-thirds cameras I didn't have to clean a sensor once, I've had an X-T1 since Christmas and had to clean the sensor twice. So either it attracts the dirt, or the ultrasonic cleaning isn't as good as the cleaning on the Lumix cameras. I use a Delkin Devices Sensor Scope kit to clean the sensor, and find it easy to use.
 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Delkin-Devices-Complete-Cleaning-Digital/dp/B0055IAF0M

It is not possible. The root of the problem is Adobe's demosaicing of the X-Trans CFA. They do a poor job of rendering the finest detail compared with the competitive converters. The problem can't be "Bridgwooded" away because it's ultimately not due to sharpening (or noise processing). Various procedures like Bridgwood's or Fitzgerald's etc. are methods to avoid exacerbating the problem -- they don't correct it as it is not user correctable.
 
 
It is an Adobe problem in dealing with the X-Trans CFA. Most of the other raw converters do a better job of rendering fine detail. If the problem is apparent in an LR conversion and you can't make adjustments to correct it while the problem is not apparent in 5 other conversions from 5 other raw converters simple logic points to Adobe.
 
If you're wedded to LR and not happy switching or using a supplemental raw converter then you: 1. keep waiting for Adobe to improve, 2. move on and sell the Fuji, 3. take the blue pill and convince yourself it's gotten better.
 
Personally I love my Fuji and I'm keeping it -- wonderful camera. I encountered the "Adobe" problem the very first time I used the camera. For me the solution was easy, no more Adobe.
 

I've had my X30 since January this year after upgrading from an X10 which unfortunately was damaged in a careless crushing incident at the Brno Moto GP race last year I'm loving the X30, it takes great pictures and the new features are fantastic. It's really handy being able to download images on my phone, do a quick edit in snapseed and have them online within minutes of taking them, that's a great addition. The tilting screen is also a big plus point and I find myself using it a lot to get those tricky angles as well as sneakier street style stuff. Could it do with a bigger sensor? Of course but it is what it is and I think it's a fantastic little camera, bring it with me everywhere and take 90% of my photos with it. I was torn between getting the X30 and an XM1 and I think I made the right decision for my needs. Would absolutely love an XT10 though, oof!
 
Here's two landscape shots taken on "Frank" as I call my X30, "Fred" was my X10 who did a great job also, really liked that sensor.

Can you include some photos to show these? It will help a lot.
    Maybe these two posts might have a relation to one another?

I would like zebra stripes on areas that are too hot as a user-selectable option in all replay modes, not just the mode with the tiny thumbnail and all the data. Ideally, I would like them in the viewfinder before I take the picture, but I believe that's harder to do.

With all due respect, for what I see depicted here on this forum and elsewhere on line... I think that most of us produce pictures for which Jpeg’s straight out of the camera offer already more than what they really need ( or in some cases deserve!).
 
Nevertheless it is nice to keep the raws for “ just in case” the question is whether every user is THEN capable to do any better than the camera does.

I want zebra stripes on burnt-out areas before I take the picture, or if that's not possible, on the image review after I've taken it whatever viewing mode I choose. At present it's only displayed in the "maximum info" view which has a very small thumbnail image.

I want zebra stripes on burnt-out areas before I take the picture, or if that's not possible, on the image review after I've taken it whatever viewing mode I choose. At present it's only displayed in the "maximum info" view which has a very small thumbnail image.

Lightstream II

How about +/- 3 stop auto bracketing?  Seriously, I don't see how that could require any more than 5 minutes worth of programming time by their software developers!

C1 is famous for displaying "pretty" images on first convert.  
The old Nikon converter Capture NX was famous for this(with Nikon files only, of course).  Even the current execrable Nikon Capture NX-D(a Silkypix product) has that seductive "nice color" look.
To my eyes, PN often has this effect with both Nikon and Fuji-X files.  
Lately, I have noticed, and increasingly cannot ignore, the jacked-up midtone contrast in Photo Ninja, which, on some files, contributes to the better initial impression, but on many files just looks oversharpened.
Sharpening, in general, has been oversold.  When I feel this way, the X-Trans conversion in Lightroom is like a pleasant vacation from the popular oversharpening look.

Those thin branches/twigs are there, more clearly than they were before, but indeed any imperfections might be more obvious.
 
I suspect that if they manage to get every bit of detail out some day that will also include some more noise. Indeed you can already see it in your example above in the patch of open blue sky. Of course the difference is that you can decide for yourself how much of it you want to have denoised, and then this will be down to the quality of the denoiser of choice rather than trying to fix the damage done by bad interpolation. With more information available it should be easier for the software to distinguish between detail or noise, for both DNR or sharpening, and combined. Even things like selective color editing, or black and white conversions with simulated color filters etc should perform better around edges in the finer details. Also high iso's should have noticeably more color detail. (though lowering the color noise reduction nearly all the way down fixes a lot of that already)

AF-C, XF 56mm stopping down at f:1,2, tracking a car's plate as the car run to my direction at ca. 50 kms/h, 20 shots at 8fps burst rate, not a single failed shot 

Here are my results so far.  I only have 3 Fuji X lenses currently.
 
35/1.4  the most dramatic change.   Lens just gets to focus without rocking back and forth.   Amazing for this lens.  All of the sudden it is like a different lens!!!
18-135.  I tried to lower the light in my bedroom and focus at tele end.  It is usually a slow lens to focus in low light.  Result - much quicker acquisition.   
56/1.2    seems to be no changes whatsoever with how that lens focused with previous firmware. 

The 18mm and 60mm benefit from the new AF as well. 

The 35mm does not pulse back and force anymore it just locks on!! amazing!!  The 23mm and 56mm are just as good as before. 

Ah so that's LR6.1, thanks much. Seems to be the same as ACR9.1.
 
As we've learned in that other topic, the blue channel causing edge halos around edges like trees against blue skies and such probably improved slightly, but regular detail still the same mushy mush to my eyes. 
 
Hope that collaboration with Fuji they're promising will amount to something !

Like others, I could see no difference in Fuji RAW handling  between LR5.7 and LR6.0. I've just installed 6.1 and there is a significant improvement in the handling of objects against the sky, as these 100% crops show. All process settings are the same and are fairly "normal"; modest sharpening with detail at 100%, modest colour noise reduction, medium contrast tone curve,  Provia.

For a long zoom like this, I would like it fast with OIS without making it overly bulky and heavy. That should be easy enough 

I took some IR photos using a standard X-T1 and an R72 filter, , you can see them here.
 
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5JBVrx
 
Where lenses have a soft hot-spot I find it's easy to remove in Lightroom. The lens test linked to above say the 10 - 24 is unusable, but I found it is great, with a little care and post processing, as in this example.
 
https://flic.kr/p/rjoPL7

I took some IR photos using a standard X-T1 and an R72 filter, , you can see them here.
 
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5JBVrx
 
Where lenses have a soft hot-spot I find it's easy to remove in Lightroom. The lens test linked to above say the 10 - 24 is unusable, but I found it is great, with a little care and post processing, as in this example.
 
https://flic.kr/p/rjoPL7

I took some IR photos using a standard X-T1 and an R72 filter, , you can see them here.
 
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5JBVrx
 
Where lenses have a soft hot-spot I find it's easy to remove in Lightroom. The lens test linked to above say the 10 - 24 is unusable, but I found it is great, with a little care and post processing, as in this example.
 
https://flic.kr/p/rjoPL7

My wife doesn't know one lens from another, unless it is a very different shape. So that's easy. Buy a small one, a medium one and a big one. Never let her see more than one of each size at any given time, and she thinks I only have 3 lenses. I store them in  a bag on the top shelf in my toys cupboard and she isn't tall enough to see what's in there.
 
I suspect she knows I have more than 3 lenses, but she goes along with the pretence.