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  1. Hey! Recently I've accidentally dropped the lens and now it got jammed on zooming and optical stabilisation got jumpy. Also after a day it just shows the lens error and stopped working. It seems it gets some piece of plastic in its gears... I've tried to take it apart, successfully removed the rear lens and all the visible screws, but unfortunately I couldn't get further. It's not obvious how to pull the internal barrel out, especially when it does not have screws under the rubber band (it has special windows, but no screws in there ) I couldn't find any tutorial on YT or Google All other lens videos/instructions have more obvious disassembling steps. Did someone has an experience on disassembling this lens? Your help would be much appreciated thank you
  2. Yeah, but one thing which is better on X-T20 comparing to X-A3 for sure is video in both modes, 1080p and 4K. Also 4K have more details than 1080p mode on X-T20. I was gonna test it with my Nikon 1 J5 which is my second system for Tele and Video (Nikon 1 CX 70-300mm (810mm in 35mm) is an absolute gem)
  3. Before buying X-T20 I took several shots from both cameras X-A3 and X-T20. From my previous experience with x-trans sensors (X-T1) the files never gave me the same sharpness that X-A1/X-A2 did (Lightroom). Yes I know about other converters. but when used still not better than X-A1/A2. The colors were very similar in both camera versions... so for me the X-trans is more a marketing thing that gave more problems than advantages.. One thing I hated about the cameras was video quality... Anyway, I needed a decent 4K camera that could use Fuji lenses , thus X-T20 was my only option (X-A3 supports 1080p only unfortunately and X-T2 is too bulky) I went to a local store, grabbed both cameras X-A3 and X-T20 and took several shots of the same spots, different ISO, same lens. I did not have a tripod so all the shots were handheld, so it wasn't 100% identical but still... Also I was in a rush because the battery shows 1 bar. I have recorded several clips on both cameras as well. I expected (actually I hoped) that X-A3 would give better results than X-T20 in picture quality in Lightroom... but no, they were almost identical, less color noise in X-T20 if color NR is turned off, but if turned on - didn't see any advantages over X-T20 or over X-A3. All settings were default in LR, So as I needed 4K I decided to get an X-T20 (What to lose, right?) And then I compared it to my X-A2... and yes will find some moire-prone targets. P.S. now I want an X-A3 just for re-testing.
  4. I have attached same comparison, but now using internal raw converters of both cameras, drop box link
  5. Ok I have 35/1.4 and 60/2.4, will try to get something similar, but unfortunately it's early Spring here, so difficult to find lots of colors at this moment. But I can try conifers .
  6. I will use both now, Thanks for the tip
  7. Re: Details section, that's why I turned it off I will try to use ONE1 for comparison or Iridient developer I have downloaded a trial, although at first try the output files just looked noisier than from the Lightroom, didn't see more details, but just tried it once. Btw I can try to use internal raw processor of X-T20 or X-A2 to process both files from different cameras as it seems one can do it.
  8. Actually I wrote it just to let others know that X-A2 with 16MP bayer could be a better choice over X-T20 with X-Trans if you don't need extra 4K. Probably even better than X-A3, I have a quick test of X-A3 comparing it to X-T20 ( I was deciding which to buy), so I took several shots with X-A3 and X-T20, and X-A3 didn't give better results than X-T20, in some cases it was noisier. But it was a handheld shots, not from 100% exact position. So according to those shots I choose X-T20. Probably not a good decision which I'm regretting now. Especially after I tested focus abilities of X-T20 in low light conditions. Which is almost identical to X-A2 if used with 56mm. 60mm, 90mm, 50-230mm although it was pretty fast with 16mm 1.4, 30mm 1.4, much faster than X-A2.
  9. The answer is the left side is X-T20, the right side is X-A2. As you can see X-T20 shows more moiré than X-A2 on the stripes which have a dotted pattern. I can send both RAF files if needed. Also added +0.25 to exposure for X-A2 as I said it's always shows darker picture than X-T20 with same conditions. Sharpening and noise reduction is off.
  10. please see here http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4939-x-t20-vs-x-a2-a-to-b/?p=43002
  11. Hi all, I've been an X-A series user since beginning (X-A1, A2). Although I have most of the Fuji primes. Now I'm owning both X-A2 and X-T20. Several A to B crop files are attached. I've purchased X-T20 about several days ago, only because of the 4K. I wish X-A3 would have it, otherwise I bought it instead of X-T20. Pros of the X-A2 over X-T20 (IMHO) 1. Battery life - endless comparing to X-T20 2. Much better ergonomics on X-A2: - a dedicated button for recording - Play and Delete buttons are on the right side which is perfect for one hand operations, on X-T20 you have to use another hand or move you thumb thru the display which triggers the EVF and turns off the display for a second. Hence you spend more time. - Expo-correction dial is so stiff on X-T20 that you have to use both fingers to rotate it, it's the most used element fro me, it's a pleasure to use it on X-A2, and it's a pain to use it on X-T20. Also the dial a bit extends on X-A2 from the body which is another plus. - the same concerns the top Fn button right after the dial. X-A2 - no complaints. on X-T20 it's too flat. Almost impossible to press it until you use your nail. - Built-in Flash is tillable on X-A2. On X-T20 it's fixed, facing forward, almost useless for me. - special ultra-bright display mode useful in bright sun. No such mode on X-T20, probably because of the EVF (but I prefer using display in most cases, because it allows to shot in so many different positions, e.g. from the ground... etc. - Joystick buttons are to thick on X-T20, easy to activate them accidentally. Did not have such a problem on X-A2 at all. - IMHO, but shiny silver plastic on X-A2 looks more real than soft one on the X-T20, same with "leather" Pros of the X-T20 for me - 4K video, better video - touch screen (although they have positioned the focus-finger-option on the right top of the display, it triggers accidentally too much, so sometimes it turns off autofocus (they could make it like on Nikon J5, it has it on the left side) Both cameras have a bit different AWB so I have tried to match it. Also X-A2 has higher shadows by default (I've added -6 to shadows in Lightroom) Also with absolutely same settings X-T20 gives always brighter picture. (Exp +0.25) Also for ISO 6400 X-T20 gives softer picture if Mechanical Shutter is used, it gives identical to lower ISO modes sharpness if ES is selected. For now I have attached 2 crops (100%) of both cameras. A to B comparison. X-A2 enlarged to match the 24Mp size of the X-T20 Lightroom 6.9, Detail section is turned off (in order to show raw details), ISO3200, 56mm f5.6, 1/5s, Later I will upload other photos. Please try and guess which one is which. UPDATE: I have attached the same comparison, but now both RAF files were processed by internal RAW converter, all settings by default, Noise Reduction was set to the lowest value available. Dropbox Link to 100% view Just in case X-A2 shows more precise AWB. The red color is tend to be orange on X-T20.
  12. I absolutely agree with you. I have never had any issues with any of the lenses/cameras (including Fuji ones). Snowing, raining, hot... no matter. Had no problems with switching lenses even under rain... Just simple precautions
  13. that's why I choose 60mm f2.4 it has 9 blades vs. 7 on 56/90mm stop down to f4 and you'll see the nut "bokeh" ... but not for 60mm also 90mm is a bit long, no OIS I'm still testing it (I have a Samyang 85/1.4 also) I love pictures from 90mm (the Samyang is a good competitor for its price thou. actually it's not bad at all) but not sure If I decide to buy the 90mm between 56 vs 56APD I like the APD version more even stopped down (it's not that "greyish" in the backgrounds)
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