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  1. Hey! Recently I've accidentally dropped the lens and now it got jammed on zooming and optical stabilisation got jumpy. Also after a day it just shows the lens error and stopped working. It seems it gets some piece of plastic in its gears... I've tried to take it apart, successfully removed the rear lens and all the visible screws, but unfortunately I couldn't get further. It's not obvious how to pull the internal barrel out, especially when it does not have screws under the rubber band (it has special windows, but no screws in there ) I couldn't find any t
  2. Yeah, but one thing which is better on X-T20 comparing to X-A3 for sure is video in both modes, 1080p and 4K. Also 4K have more details than 1080p mode on X-T20. I was gonna test it with my Nikon 1 J5 which is my second system for Tele and Video (Nikon 1 CX 70-300mm (810mm in 35mm) is an absolute gem)
  3. Before buying X-T20 I took several shots from both cameras X-A3 and X-T20. From my previous experience with x-trans sensors (X-T1) the files never gave me the same sharpness that X-A1/X-A2 did (Lightroom). Yes I know about other converters. but when used still not better than X-A1/A2. The colors were very similar in both camera versions... so for me the X-trans is more a marketing thing that gave more problems than advantages.. One thing I hated about the cameras was video quality... Anyway, I needed a decent 4K camera that could use Fuji lenses , thus X-T20 was my only option (X-A3 sup
  4. I have attached same comparison, but now using internal raw converters of both cameras, drop box link
  5. Ok I have 35/1.4 and 60/2.4, will try to get something similar, but unfortunately it's early Spring here, so difficult to find lots of colors at this moment. But I can try conifers .
  6. I will use both now, Thanks for the tip
  7. Re: Details section, that's why I turned it off I will try to use ONE1 for comparison or Iridient developer I have downloaded a trial, although at first try the output files just looked noisier than from the Lightroom, didn't see more details, but just tried it once. Btw I can try to use internal raw processor of X-T20 or X-A2 to process both files from different cameras as it seems one can do it.
  8. Actually I wrote it just to let others know that X-A2 with 16MP bayer could be a better choice over X-T20 with X-Trans if you don't need extra 4K. Probably even better than X-A3, I have a quick test of X-A3 comparing it to X-T20 ( I was deciding which to buy), so I took several shots with X-A3 and X-T20, and X-A3 didn't give better results than X-T20, in some cases it was noisier. But it was a handheld shots, not from 100% exact position. So according to those shots I choose X-T20. Probably not a good decision which I'm regretting now. Especially after I tested focus abilities of X-T20 in l
  9. The answer is the left side is X-T20, the right side is X-A2. As you can see X-T20 shows more moiré than X-A2 on the stripes which have a dotted pattern. I can send both RAF files if needed. Also added +0.25 to exposure for X-A2 as I said it's always shows darker picture than X-T20 with same conditions. Sharpening and noise reduction is off.
  10. please see here http://www.fuji-x-forum.com/topic/4939-x-t20-vs-x-a2-a-to-b/?p=43002
  11. Hi all, I've been an X-A series user since beginning (X-A1, A2). Although I have most of the Fuji primes. Now I'm owning both X-A2 and X-T20. Several A to B crop files are attached. I've purchased X-T20 about several days ago, only because of the 4K. I wish X-A3 would have it, otherwise I bought it instead of X-T20. Pros of the X-A2 over X-T20 (IMHO) 1. Battery life - endless comparing to X-T20 2. Much better ergonomics on X-A2: - a dedicated button for recording - Play and Delete buttons are on the right side which is perfect for one hand operations, on X-T20
  12. I absolutely agree with you. I have never had any issues with any of the lenses/cameras (including Fuji ones). Snowing, raining, hot... no matter. Had no problems with switching lenses even under rain... Just simple precautions
  13. that's why I choose 60mm f2.4 it has 9 blades vs. 7 on 56/90mm stop down to f4 and you'll see the nut "bokeh" ... but not for 60mm also 90mm is a bit long, no OIS I'm still testing it (I have a Samyang 85/1.4 also) I love pictures from 90mm (the Samyang is a good competitor for its price thou. actually it's not bad at all) but not sure If I decide to buy the 90mm between 56 vs 56APD I like the APD version more even stopped down (it's not that "greyish" in the backgrounds)
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