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  1. Like
    mawz reacted to jerryy in X-T4: Not sharp photos when light conditions is not very good. Settings to change?   
    After you have some practice at these, you might find it worthwhile to invest a couple of afternoons in a library learning about various  photography techniques— wait until after you have that practice in so that what the authors are saying will make more sense.
    For instance, dragging the shutter — a wonderful technique, will seem like it is the opposite of what I have had you do in this thread. But it is not, not really.
  2. Like
    mawz got a reaction from jerryy in X-T4: Not sharp photos when light conditions is not very good. Settings to change?   
    You've discovered that scenes can have a dynamic range (range from the brightest to the darkest in the scene) that exceeds what your camera can capture, and even less than a regular JPEG can show.

    You have a couple options for addressing this. 

    1. Use the DR settings (DR100, DR200, DR400 or DR Auto) to compensate, the higher the number, the more dynamic range it can show. This only works in JPEG though and your RAW files will be underexposed.

    2. HDR bracket your shots. That includes taking an exposure bracket set (multiple shots using the exposure bracketing feature) and then creating an HDR image in post using a dedicated HDR application.

    3. Shoot for the highlights and recover the shadows in post. You have less ability to save highlights than shadows, so use your RAW converter to bring up the shadows and bring down the highlights in post.
  3. Like
    mawz got a reaction from George_P in Help with lensbaby Trio 28   
    And you will always see an f stop of 0 in the viewfinder when using non-electronic lenses, the camera has no way of knowing what aperture the lens is.
  4. Like
    mawz got a reaction from EverythingIsAwesome in Traveling Setup with X-T30 and ???   
    I'd suggest the 16-80 and throw your 12mm in the bag too, to carry when you'll be in town sightseeing. Leave the long lenses at home.

    Maybe also get a XC35mm f2 for low light. It's cheap, light & small.

  5. Like
    mawz got a reaction from jerryy in can the XT10 use the shoot tethered feature?   
    No, the tethered function is limited to the single-digit X-T's and the X-Pro2/3

    None of the consumer bodies have Tethered support (X-Tx0, X-Tx00, X-Ex, X-M or X-A)
  6. Like
    mawz got a reaction from TeamTarek in Trouble Installing Fujifilm X Webcam Software on Mac   
    It's a driver essentially. No app to run.

    Open up your conferencing app and see if the Fuji Webcam shows up as an option.
  7. Like
    mawz got a reaction from liop109 in which fuji camera would be?   
    X-T4, hands down. Best AF and the LCD articulation downgrade is less of an issue for sports than for landscape.
  8. Like
    mawz got a reaction from George_P in Does new Nikon Z5 crush X-T4?   
    Aside from IBIS and the higher-spec EVF, the X-T2 is a lot more camera than the Z5. The X-T4 compares well against the higher-end Z6 in all regards except pure sensor performance (and that's solely a function of sensor size)

    The Z5 is a basic stripper FF body built around the frame of a Z6. Older FSI sensor from the A7II (with reduced AF performance thanks to a slower readout, to what extent isn't yet known), 4.5fps, EXPENSIVE lenses (price those great but costly f1.8S lenses, you can get Fuji's faster XF lenses for the same money and frankly it's only the 35, 50 & 85 that are something special, the newer 20 & 24 are actually marginally worse than their G predecessors), no proper vertical grip, single-axis tilt touchscreen. You can get a full set of 4 fujicrons for less than the cost of 3 f1.8 S lenses (the 50 is not much more than a Fujicron, but the others are significantly more expensive)

    The flip side is the Z5 battery is pretty good (although Nikon continues to get poor life per mAh from their large EN-EL15 batteries) and you get access to the brilliant Nikkor PF lenses via the FTZ. 

    I'm a mixed Nikon/Fuji shooter (D750, D300, X-T2, X-T1, X-E2) and while the Z5 is on my radar, it's purely as an eventual replacement for my D750, as my X-T2 is already more camera in a smaller package. The Z5 is priced directly against the X-T3 and unless you are a long lens guy (where the FTZ+ Nikkor F telephotos give you more options) or absolutely need that extra bit of DR and high ISO inherent to FF, the X-T3 curbstomps the Z5 in performance.
  9. Like
    mawz got a reaction from Jazz1 in How To Turn Off Picture Review After Just Taking Picture?   
    Setup Menu - Screen settings - Image Display will disable Image review for all but one particular configuration.

    The exception is if your VIEWMODE is set to Eye Sensor + LCD Playback, where upon you'll get plaback if you shoot via the EVF then take the camera away from your face.
  10. Thanks
    mawz got a reaction from matsonfamily in Metebones Speed Booster mount question   
    The FD lenses are versatile, but if you go EF you can adapt most DSLR mounts other than FD or MD to EF with cheap & small adapters that can be left on the lens.

    If you're using an FD to X adapter, you can only mount FD lenses or M42 as well (if you can find the rare Canon M42 Adapter).

    Note if you are adapting only manual lenses, a non-electronic EF adapter can be used readily, which are cheaply available but don't support controlling native EF lenses.
  11. Thanks
    mawz got a reaction from Kasumi3344 in A Petition for Fujifilm, and Sandisk   
    I'd suggest doing your research before complaining about this. The V speed rating is relatively new and Sandisk has not refreshed their UHS-II offerings since the V spec was released.

    Sandisk's V30 cards are their latest UHS-I cards, and that is the highest rating that can be applied to UHS-1 cards. These are actually capable of almost V90 performance (measured sustained sequential writes of over 85MB/s) and would have been rated as V60 cards if that rating was available for UHS-1 cards (which are artificially limited to V30 as a max rating despite the top UHS-1 cards delivering performance that essentially matches the V90 requirements)

    Sandisk's UHS-II cards all qualify for the highest speed ratings available at the time of their introduction. However testing on sequential write shows sustained write performance of over 240MB/s, some two and a half times better than a V90 spec would require.

    https://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/reviews/sd-cards/sandisk-extreme-pro-300-mbs-uhs-ii-128gb-sdxc-memory-card/#:~:text=II card reader.-,Performance,fast for an SD card.

    Note if you compare performance, only one V90 rated card has faster sustained write performance than the Sandisk Extreme Pro UHS-II cards, and it's the Sony Tough card that's middle of the pack in terms of the top performers (most of which are not V90 rated). The fastest sustained write cards on the market are not V90 rated because the spec is too new)

    So, in summary a quick check of actual performance would show you that Sandisk's top performance UHS-II cards had exceeded V90 spec before that spec existed. You should be using UHS-II cards for maximum performance in a X-T4 body.
  12. Thanks
    mawz got a reaction from Kasumi3344 in ATTN Fujifilm... What have you done??? CEOs, and Bosses read please.   
    Photos does not yet have X-T4 support.

    You would need to use a RAW converter with X-T4 support, like Capture One Express for Fuji (which is a free download).
  13. Like
    mawz got a reaction from AndyH44 in 35mm-ish decisions   
    Honestly, I'd just get the XC35 new for 200 Euro

    I have one and it's welded to my X-E2.

    As a plus, it focuses noticably faster than the f1.4 version, and the X-E1 is slow to AF at the best of times.
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