Nick05

I have the X-T2 and the same lens, well probably too many lenses, but have not experienced this. The AF is very accurate, almost all the time. The only time the camera misses is when it hits a nearby obstacle instead, such as when trying to focus on a bird in a tree with a lot of nearby small branches. I have two X-T2 bodies, and they both perform the same. I wonder if there are a few out there with problems or if some are being impacted by a firmware bug. I've even been shooting birds in flight with the highest AF accuracy I've experienced; around 90+%. I'd be on the phone with Fujifilm if I was experiencing that issue. The trees could potentially be excusable if it was a one of, but that house shouldn't have any issue at all. According to FujiRumors, there should be an updated firmware soon. If that doesn't solve it, I'd recommend calling and sending the camera in for a check.

Hi Binary, Sorry for the late reply. I had to send the camera in to Fujifilm for repair twice. The first time they could not replicate the problem so they cleaned the camera and sent it back. It worked for a few minutes and the issue occurred again so I took video of it and called support who asked me to also send them the video along with the camera. I believe it was the top plate they replaced, but don't recall. The camera has since worked fine.

I went to Paynes Prairie in Gainsville, FL today and took a few more. 
Florida's Buffalo herd in Infrared by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr
Gainsville, FL looking otherworldly by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr

I went to Paynes Prairie in Gainsville, FL today and took a few more. 
Florida's Buffalo herd in Infrared by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr
Gainsville, FL looking otherworldly by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr

I went to Paynes Prairie in Gainsville, FL today and took a few more. 
Florida's Buffalo herd in Infrared by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr
Gainsville, FL looking otherworldly by Brian Nicklaus, on Flickr

The 18-135mm didn't interest me at all when it was announced and I said it is the one lens I'd probably never buy.. except then I did. I expected to use it about the same as I did with my Canon EF24-105mm. Just a casual walk around lens when image quality didn't matter much. After using the 18-135mm for a few weeks, I found myself never using the 18-55mm and eventually sold it. What I'm saying is the 18-135mm surprised me by being better than I thought. It is a little soft at 135mm. The aperture isn't the widest and it being variable is a bit annoying, but it is overall a decent performer. The 16-55mm should perform better, but it has different limitations. I'm hoping they release a 16-75mm F/4 or something close focal range that is great optically. Unless you need the F/2.8, I'd go with the 18-135mm for flexibility.
 
@welshkc The 50-140mm is optically fantastic. Not much compares to it. You are going to be spoiled and disappointed by most other lenses moving forward.

I almost bought the 16mm during the last sale, but resisted at the time. I have the 10-24mm and the 35mm. I think if I could only have one of the two combos, I'd go with the 16 and 35. I don't often want to go wider than the 16mm and from what I am seeing the IQ is better. I like the 10-24mm, but it is missing something for me.

I really like the 100-400mm. I use it a lot for wildlife and birds. I have not yet tried it for sports, but I've been very happy with it tracking birds in flight. I've just been using the standard tracking as I haven't had any issues with it tracking. I played with the other modes briefly, but the standard one is hitting at 90% or more keeper rate. It is overall pretty sharp, though it is not as sharp as some of the other Fujifilm lenses. I would say it is as good as or better than other comparable lenses from other brands. I have the Nikon 200-500mm and it is significantly heavier, slower AF, and not quite as sharp. My only complaint, and minor complaint, is I think the OIS isn't quite as good as it could be. Maybe it is me or just perception, but I feel like I can handhold the 200-500mm at a lower shutter speed than the 100-400. One other note, as to be expected, adding the teleconverter to it does slow down the AF some.

I have the 90mm and 2 of the 11mm and 1 of the 16mm extension tubes. The 90mm works really well with them. The only issue with using extension tubes over macro lenses is that you lose focus range. If you're staying at a set distance this won't matter, but if youre walking through nature taking photos at various distances, it can get a little tiring removing and/or adding the tubes. I also hear the 55-200mm works really well with the extension tubes, but I have not tried it yet.

I have the X100T and I have not decided on whether or not I will upgrade. I think the upgrade is worthy, but the X100T is not my main camera. I have an X-Pro2 and X-T2 that I use as my main cameras. I had the X100T for a while now, bought it a few months after it was released. I like the camera and enjoy using it, but the advantages it has over the X-Pro2 is limited to size and how quiet it is. If I upgraded to the X100F, I'd gain a lot of the functionality of the X-Pro2, but I don't know if I would use it enough to justify upgrading. I really enjoy the X-Pro2 and I think it has really replaced my need of the X100 series camera.

The EF lenses don't adapt very well to Fujifilm or most other brands. There seem to be some adapters to make them work reasonably well with Sony, but not really other brands. My recommendation would be to sell that lens and purchase the 10-24mm F/4 version from Fuji. You will definitely end up with better results. The main reason the EF lenses from Canon, and a lot of newer lenses in general, don't adapt well is they require electrical contacts to adjust aperture and to focus. I adapt some old FD lenses and some old k-mount ones with great success, but they all have manual aperture rings. I've sold all but one of my collection of Canon EF lenses, almost all of which were L versions. I have an adapter for the EF lenses, but never really used it for that reason. 

Great Egret

I had Kolari Vision convert my X100S to dual spectrum, Infrared and Visible a couple of years ago.  I have to use a "Hot Filter" for visible light or IR filters for infrared.  I have hundreds of photos on Flickr and an infrared album there.  Look for Neal3k if you are interested.
Pros on my conversion - I can shoot IR as well as any adapted camera and still shoot visible.
Cons on my conversion - I have to always use a filter (although I do get a nice combined effect if I leave all filters off.)  Also my color balance with the Hot filter seems a bit different that it did before conversion.  Not a killer and worth having both choices.
 
I've tried filters on my new X100F and am not happy so I will just shoot with both cameras now.  It is worth the trouble for me since I love the results with both cameras.

I completely understand that. I own it, and like it, but don't love it. I really don't understand why they didn't put a marked aperture ring on it. I'm planning on getting the 16mm for similar reasons you mentioned.

I have the 90mm and 2 of the 11mm and 1 of the 16mm extension tubes. The 90mm works really well with them. The only issue with using extension tubes over macro lenses is that you lose focus range. If you're staying at a set distance this won't matter, but if youre walking through nature taking photos at various distances, it can get a little tiring removing and/or adding the tubes. I also hear the 55-200mm works really well with the extension tubes, but I have not tried it yet.

I have been to these forums before, but I have been away for quite some time now. Not because I don't have Fuji cameras and not because I don't appreciate the amount of knowledge gathered here. But because I was tired of the tone in discussions and of the rants.

I am back now. But it seems as if everything is unchanged.

People rant about alleged design errors. People rant about design choices. People rant about things that turn out to be misunderstandings on their part. People rant about things that are ignorance about or misunderstandings of fundamental photographic technique. People rant about production errors in their cameras. People rant about production errors in other peoples' cameras, despite not having bought their own camera yet. People rant about production backlog and delivery times.

What kind of forum do you people really want? Please, everyone, stop ranting.

Pelican
 
Untitled
 
Great Blue Heron

In "EVF Only" the image will playback on the LCD when you press the "play" button, however menu settings appear only in the EVF display.
 
I too would like to have it so when in the "EVF only mode" when I  hit "Menu" or "Q" the display would switch to the LCD and not the EVF, so as not to have to toggle thru the viewfinder settings.
 
I see no reason why I want to keep my eye to the viewfinder when I need to alter the settings.

If someone has the coin, and isn't jeopardising anything important (like the mortgage or the kids college fund) to get the product they desire, good luck to them.
 
This notion that people shouldn't be allowed a fast car, unless they're a racing driver, or an expensive dive watch unless they're a professional diver or a really nice top line camera, unless they're the living embodiment of Vivian Maier or Ansel Adams or something, is just a derivative of wealth politics, and as much as everyone is entitled to their opinion, mine is that this is a pretty puerile point of view!
 
Don't worry, I don't expect you to agree with that :) I'm not trying to be rude, it's just that we live in a world where money, and not ability decides what we can buy!
 
Besides as you say, how much money would things cost if you needed the ability to allowed to buy them? Like if Puma only made one pair of running shoes and you had to be Usain Bolt to be allowed to buy them
 
Perhaps it's best to look at it the other way around, someone who's good at something, can use any product from the genre they're good at, because they have ability. Those that don't, need as much help as the technology can give. But those that are good can still take profit from this situation, becuase although they don't need the advanced product to deliver the goods, it's nice for them to have the option, which wouldn't exist if the less able weren't clamouring for it

I was talking to someone yesterday who just bought an X-T2 and your book. I don't think she had a chance to read it yet, but it was nice to hear about the support for you. I know it takes a lot of effort and I appreciate the first looks, reviews, and tips.

Great Egret

What setting did you have the IS set to? I found I had issues mostly with the IS in the past when set to continuous. When I turn it to shooting only, images seems to be way sharper. When set to continuous I found the photos to appear soft or slightly out of focus or blurred. This it true with the other lenses such as the 55-200mm as well.

Adam, I've been able to find some info at the link below. I also just bought a used X-E2 to convert and will probably send it in next month to convert. I want to spend a little time shooting with it first to make sure it doesn't have any issues. Hopefully we will get some responses here.
 
http://fujixsystem.blogspot.fr/p/fuji-infrared-lens-tests.html

Hi All,
 
I thought I'd share a list of useful shortcuts and important considerations for the X-Pro2 I've compiled from personal experience and various resources (recommendations below.) As I'm new to using this forum I hope this isn't redundant and that it will save you all some time and perhaps prevent some aggravation.
 
Shortcuts- in order of importance and frequency of use for me but of course this will be different for each of usPush Trash button for 2 sec, then press rear command dial to bring up card formatting Rear command dial- While in AF or MF press briefly to get the magnified view. Pressing for a full second in MF mode toggles through the focus assist modes (standard, split, focus peaking.) This works whether you are in magnified view or full view. This also works for the Electronic Rangefinder (ERF) Battery life as a percentage by hitting Playback button, then up arrow OR just toggle through the displays using DISP/BACK button Press and hold DISP/BACK button until Fn customizing menu appears and you can make changesOR press and hold any of the individual Fn buttons to change the function for that button. Press the Q key to bring up the Quick menu. Now press the Q button again and hold for 2 seconds: This brings you to the set-up menu to configure your custom camera settings C1 through C7. Press and hold the Q key for 2 seconds while in shooting mode to configure the Quick menu itself. While in this mode you can navigate to any of the 16 positions (use joystick or controller keys) and select any of the 24 functions or NONE for that position (using the MENU/OK button or push in joystick.) If you don't need access to 16 positions/functions you make some of them blank using NONE to clean up your Q menu. Press and hold Menu/OK button for 3 sec to lock all 4 selector/Fn buttons and the Q button. I must admit I never use this one but have included it in case someone out there sees a viable use for it. Important but not obvious:If DR is engaged (that is set to DR200, Auto, or DR400) your minimum Auto ISO won't go below ISO 400 or ISO 800 respectively, even if you've set the minimum for 200. I leave DR off for the most part because I primarily use Raw. If you use DR-AUTO mode, the X-Pro2 will choose between DR100 or DR200 but not DR400. If Face and/or eye detect is on, you can’t lock the AF. You also cannot change metering patterns. This makes no sense at all and I was hoping Fuji would change this when they came out with the 2.0 firmware update but no such luck. Maybe if we all request it, it will happen. One workaround is to assign Face/eye detect to a Fn button so you can quickly change it if you want to us AF-L or switch to spot metering. In addition to figuring some of this out on my own I have used several other resources. A couple of these stand out and I would highly recommend them: 1. Adam Bonn's X-Pro Series Content (not to mention the rest of his blog/site as well as his many poignant posts on this forum) 2. Rico Pfirstinger's X-pert tips- right now you can get 40% off his e-book via the link pinned at the top of this (Fuji X-Pro1/X-Pro2) forum.
 
Cheers,
Joel

I would also like to comment that I haven't had any issues with either the X-T1 or X-T2, and wonder if the original poster had issues because of the lower quality cameras, as I have no idea if the quality control for the X-E2 would be the same as one of their flagship cameras, but I have no real issues.  I do love the lenses, but I find the actual image processing, algorithms, and sensor/coloring to be the real highlight of the Fuji systems.  My biggest complaints range more on the lack of a full frame sensor and on their commitment to smaller sized cameras.  
 
I appreciate for many of you, the smaller sizes on say the kind of camera that the X-Pro2 is, isn't the same kind of camera that the X-T2 is, especially for those of us who mostly use the camera for video.  While the output really is market leading, as the portion of the sensor that is sampled is higher than even full frame DSLRs, the issue comes in the form of overheating and that so many of the buttons not being easy to access for my big hands.  I honestly think that attempting to keep the camera to a smaller sized hampered many of its capabilities, though I stay because honestly nothing else on the market looks like Fuji.  It is sometimes quirky in order to have this very paired down approach that I sometimes feel is maybe afraid to reach for its complete capabilities or to go outside of a very niche market and price range to completely compete with the high end Nikon and Canon.  
 
I understand that for many of you, the joy of having a Fuji is the X-100 series that is just a very easy tool to go out and shoot with and it makes shooting fun again, but that really is not my reasoning, nor is that the kind of camera I would ever buy.  With that said, I also think that the X-T2 has the best autofocus on the market, bar none, the best coloring, the best lenses (albeit not the best selection, though slowly improving), the previously mentioned best 4K outside some of the very high end pro camcorders, and the best customer service and updates that I have ever seen from a camera manufacturer.  
 
While there is no perfect camera, and I'll concede that Pentax has the best weather sealing hands down, they have the worst autofocus, the worst video (I realize that is a special factor for me), and I also find IBIS systems to leak the lubrication onto the sensor over time, I have no issues with the weather sealing or build quality in either my cameras or their lenses.  I realize that every camera company will manufacture duds, but the part that makes me not worry about that is the amazing customer support that if I were to buy a dud, that I would be taken care of.  The issue is knowing what is that you need in a camera and finding the kind of camera that most suits your needs.  If I were a nature photographer that specialized in the worst possible elements, maybe Pentax would have more of what I wanted.  If I did more portrait work, I'd probably have stuck with Nikon and the D800 line of cameras.  Same if I needed extreme ISO, which is my biggest gripe with Fuji actually.  The point is that I don't see why people complain about a single camera not being all things to all people.  No camera has the best build quality, best color, best ISO, best lenses, cheapest, best lens selection, best auto focus, best customer service, best battery performance, best dynamic range, best frames per second, highest pixel count, with adjustable pixel range, that has a full frame sensor with the same pixel pitch as a crop sensor.  It sure would be nice if that existed, but you kind of have to pick your battles, because such a camera would cost a lot more than we would want it to, and I'm sure still people would complain.
 
I would also like to reply to someone criticizing the X Trans sensor, and say that while it might take longer to record RAW files, I would suggest that you compare the output with the X-A series that does not use the Trans sensors and see if you prefer that output.  I see a difference in the coloring of those sensors and would not prefer they make this switch in future high end models.