Maurice

Unboxing 7artisans 35mm F1.2 lens - Part II
 
My sample weights only 5 1/2 Oz (157g). It was a surprise to find the Torx head screws in the mount - quite unusual for budget lens. Mount also has "FX-Mount" sign for your convenience. I'd mention that screw holes and "red dot" marker have quite sharp and rough edges, which I'd like to make smooth later like they should be.
 
IMPORTANT NOTE: you may see that Torx screws heads are sitting quite deep - it is causing an issue when unmounting lens from the camera. Typically I just briefly press lens-lock button on Fuji camera and release it during rotating the lens clockwise. It soesn't work with 7artisans s5mm F1.2 - you have to keep lens-lock button pressed thill the end, otherwise lock pin will be catched by the closest Torx screw location.
 

 
Engraving of 7artisans 35mm F1.2 is not very deep, but it has all white color which is good for low light shooting conditions.
You can see that aperture ring is very close to the mount, which is convenient for shooting but it is not handy when mounting lens on camera.
To prevent focus + aperture ring rotation, simply hold whole body while mounting/unmounting lens.
My sample doesn't sit tight enough on Fuji X-E2s, but it's firm enough to feel comfortable and is not moving during the focus or aperture ring rotation.
 
I've noticed three Allen screws on the focus ring, and assuming they may be used to fine tune infinity focus point of the lens. However my sample is perfectly focusing on infinity with X-E2s, so I'd not worry about that, looks like "Inspection: Qualified" on the warranty card means that thing got tested.
 

14mm is a lot wider than 16mm, and 16mm is noticeably wider than 18mm. Personally i find 10mm a little too wide and that can be a little distracting from the subject. While the 10-24 can of course go all the way to 24mm too, it is a bit too large for my taste. It really depends on your wishes, but i would want to keep it compact for travel, and don't mind a little selective framing when necessary. But really, 14mm (21mm equiv) already is beyond wide. Just try it out in a store you'll see. For any other APSC system or MFT there isn't even a native prime this wide available except for third party options. And speaking of .. there is that 12mm from Samyang/Rokinon.
 
This post below is about IR filters, but you can actually see the difference in FoV between 14 and 18 very well, as i assume they were taken from the same spot:
http://fujixsystem.blogspot.nl/p/fuji-infrared-lens-tests.html

parigby - What in gods name are you doing to your (expensive) X-T1 + 56mm setup !?
 
I can't believe this, please give your camera to me and i'll trade you a Canon Powershot.
 

Plan on getting CC when?
 
You could start a Capture One trial in the mean time, that's 30 days.
 
There is also the Iridient X-Transformer which should make your files compatible with any LR.
But you'll have to buy it to remove watermarks.

Walking around in Utrecht city centre with the 35/1.4 on the X-Pro1.




Unfortunately not really sharp, but I love the colours - don't think this will be a long term keeper though.




In front of the bakery near the Maartensbrug bridge.




Where Love is Illegal - photo exhibition at the Domplein square, to raise attention for the suppression of LGBT people.




Laced-Up Boutique - obviously a lingerie boutique, close to the Janskerkhof square.




Domplein square, one of the busiest spots in the city (together with the canals).

That's exactly why i got one of those expensive ones (match technical) that is made to fit one specific body, with rubber pads on the back (also made to fit). Meaning no wiggle at all, thus no tension on the hot-shoe. 'Whacking it' would push the thing up against the body, before it would actually pull on the hot-shoe at all, if ever. Thanks to the proper force displacement.
 
But man, that is some bad luck. Good though that you brought it up to warn others.
Hope you're not into flash photography.

It's unlikely that you need F1.4 for street unless you like to shoot at dusk(?), and the size of the 23/1.4 would scare away some people. It's better to look like a tourist than a pro .. perception can be everything. I think that even the Graphite X-T1 would be best because that makes it look more fancy than professional, making people curious instead of nervous .. just thinking out loud here.
 
As you've seen, the image quality of the 27mm is impeccable. The X-T10 looks harmless as well in both colors i guess, it's tiny (too tiny for some hands). The main reason to get the X-T1 over the X-T10 is the larger viewfinder, but that's just a luxury .. as are most of the other small differences.
 
As for the focal length, read this: http://www.japancamerahunter.com/2014/11/storytellers-kit-daniel-schaefer/

Great idea, and quite feasible. A lens like that would fit in very nicely i think.
 
But a whole other story .. surely not an alternative to any 33mm F1.
And no reason we can't have both! A 33 appears to be up first if anything .. no way around it.

You might need a larger focus frame.  If you focus using the OVF, the focus frame is often not where it is shown in the viewfinder because of parallax error.  So if the focus frame is on an area with noting to focus on, like a blank wall, the focus will be slow or will not work.  Using a larger focus frame (or the EVF) avoids the problem.

Amazing, are these all the contradictions you could fit in one post?

A hacker somebody who knows code probably could without too much trouble, theoretically. But until then, we can not.

Oh please god no, don't let Fuji go down that road. Sideways flipping screens are the source of evil.

I know there were a lot of speculations about the D7200s sensor, but since Chipworks did their magic, it's certain: it's a Toshiba sensor.
 
Don't know what is in the Pentax K3II, but I don't think the IMX271 is being used yet. (With many fps - fast read out, this thing looks perfect for an mirrorless camera!) 
 
 
About the 42MP in the A7R II. That one is pretty easy. It's all about video. In super35 mode they get 5K, which they downsample to 4k. 
And with full sensor readout (video is 16:9 instead of 3:2) they get around 34MP (which is 8K) and with 2x2 pixel binning this comes down to 4k in a nearly perfect way.
 
This would not be possible with 36MP and with 50MP you would end up with 8.5K, which probably would be an Pain in the A** to downsample (or it would introduce some weird crop factor for video)

Nobody's calling anyone's preference or reasoning wrong. But to say Fuji lost or changed its way in any way, that is simply not true. They are doing the same thing they have always done. One may notice that after covering the basics they get on to the more serious and specialized optics and such, as soon as they had the confidence to do so, but it remains true to everything they have been saying and doing from the beginning.
 
Like i said, most of us are here for the same reasons. But too many people keep saying the same thing, they're here for 'no compromise' quality, yet they complain when it ends up bigger than the **** that Sony or such (used to) pull or even DSLR. Some things just don't get any smaller without sacrificing something, whether it's body handling, or optics .. it is whatever size it needs to be. Deal with it, or go MFT. 
 
Seriously though. Something like a 100-400mm, it just doesn't scale well or at all when aiming for equivalent results to FF. It's just how it is, and that is what they keep telling us they're aiming for.

And compared to the GR
 

I dunno... the more I read, the more i'm picturing a mildly reworked X-M1 with a fixed lens and touch screen

It's interesting that there is no mention in any of the rumours of enhanced flash capabilities (apart from a slight increase in the sync speed). If Fuji still plan to introduce a more capable and robust flash system later in the year I would have thought that the new camera would anticipate that.

Trust me it's going to be, pure gold !
 

 

Could this be a monochome only version?

People, for the 100th time, the ISO / Shutter Speed dial is not going to lift up!
 
It won't be any more inconvenient or prone to failure than pressing the button on the X-T1 dials.

It's an unlock button. The outer ring is attached to the bottom ISO dial, but separated from the top. By default they are locked together and shutter speed is adjusted as you do normally, but pressing the button unlocks it so that only the ISO can be adjusted through the window, while the shutter speed stays in place.
 
By the way, here it is in Silver with black dials.
 

Or AF Mode.  Or Metering Mode?  Is there no Exposure Compensation on your model? No drive modes or focus modes either?  How do you switch from Manual to Auto Focus?

The Fuji's have few buttons already the way i see it, at least the way i use it there is Aperture, Shutter, ISO and EV-comp. Anything else is just necessary to control the 'digital back' so to say, and unless i need to be there i'm blind to those. It's easy to do that, to 'focus' on the task at hand, because Fuji has 'all these' marked physical dials, while all the extra buttons and dials prevent you from needing to go in the menu when anything else needs a kick in the ass.
 
Which is always something that's caused by everything that is either automated or digitized like AF modes, Exposure modes, Auto this, Auto that, and things like processing, formats, white balance, aka your built in dark room basically ànd print service. If you ask me Fuji managed to separate these things very well - or better than any other brand imho.
 
That way we can focus on the things that matter for the actual photograph, exactly how one would with a film camera, while all the other necessities that come with todays extended capabilities remain neatly in the background. I don't see a lot of buttons at all, i see every part of modern photography neatly and logically organized, once you know what's what, and that's why i'm here really. The awesome line-up of optics is just the icing on the cake, though one doesn't work without the other of course.
 
ps. If i'm not mistaken a firmware update for the X-T1 made it possible to fully control the shutter speed on T didn't it? It used to be for setting long exposure times only (since these of course didn't all fit on the main dial, they have to be set 'electronically'), but now it should allow full control of the shutter speed using a unmarked dial if that would be your preference.

When using the estimated euro pricing for the new fujinon tele-zoom, you should compare european prices for the other lenses.
 
Canon EF 100-400mm 4.5-5.6 L IS USM : €1250
Canon EF 100-400mm 4.5-5.6 L IS II USM : €1950
Nikon AF-S VR 80-400mm 4.5-5.6G ED : €2150
 
For me, fuji's rumored proposed retail price sounds good in this context, regarding that the price will go down after release.

I would love a Ricoh GR with Fuji-controls. Both externally and the neatly organized Live-View, not to mention Film Simulations etc.
 
But it would seem like Fuji is going to use the old sensor for this, while the big advantage of the GR is the insane detail from that amazing lens and sensor combination .. which Fuji's sensor just cannot match. Really, Fuji's sensor is fine and all, but detail with the GR is just that insane. Even the bokeh of that lens is gorgeous.
 
So really Fuji doesn't have anything to offer with a camera like this (imho), other than a difference in controls and operation.
 
Makes no sense they would choose the same focal length as the Ricoh AND Nikon.
Could have used a zoom with their signature MANUAL operation,
 
or something daring and interesting like a 21mm equivalent superwide, which would make the lack of a VF less of a problem too!
(the reason i won't mention 50mm equiv, woops just did)