aladroer

I hate it! I cannot use an L-bracket as I alwasys do!

This is clearly a flaw. In my new X-100V the system works perfectly, like in my X-T3. I hope Fujifilm will issue a firmware update soon to correct it.

I'm a stills photographer and switched from the X-T3 to the X-T4 because of the IBIS and better auto-focus. Generally speaking I'm satisfied with it except for one very important thing: The new screen doesn't allow you to use an L-bracket. I work with a tripod quite often and the impossibility of using a proper L-bracket is an important problem. I had ordered two X-T4s and have cancelled the second one. I will keep one X-T3 to use with my tripod and will use the X-T4 when not using a tripod.

It is clear. I observed the same. This should be informed by Fujifilm. And if it is something solvable through a firmware update, they should solve it quickly, together with the problem of custom setting names not appearing on the Q menu. Why do we want a name for each custom setting if then we cannot read them in the Q menu? This was working fine in the X-T3.

I have both. The 90 is clearly better in terms of definition and focusing speed. Pictures made with it really stand out. But it has a big "con" vs. the 56, at least for me: Not being stabilized, as soon as light dims, you have to start raising ISO, losing the advantage gained with its better definition. You have not only a difference of 1,5 stops in terms of aperture but, on top, you have to shoot at a higher speed, which represents 2/3 of stop less light. Therefore, shooting hanheld, the XF 56 has an advantage of, at least, 2 stops of light.

I like to shoot with the sun in the picture. The image with the 16-55 is so much clear, contrasted and transparent! The anti-flare coating protection is much better than in the 18-55.

Although it is constantly said that Fujifilm listens to its customers, we have been constantly asking (in my case since 2012) for more than 3 pictures bracketing. After more than 4 years, Fuji has finally allowed us to make a +-2 EV bracketing in the X-T2. When will we have the possibility to take, at least, up to 5 pictures? This shouldn't be that difficult!

For pictures under controlled conditions I use up to 4 Yongnuos with Pocket Wizards X. Cheap and effective. For TTL flash I used a Nissin i40 and before a Fuji EF-42. The Nissin was much better but couldn't make HSS. This is why I've replaced the Nissin i40 by a Fuji EF-X500. A fantastic flash that allows you to make HSS up to a speed of 1/8.000 and have +- 5 EV exposure compensation. I bought for these two reasons. I use it on the hotshoe (in interiors with reflected light) or with a PiXL/Canon cable outside, with HSS. The Nissin i60 doesn't have HSS yet but it will. On top of this it can be radio controlled. A good system! But to play with multiple flashes I already have my Yongnuos.

I'm constantly taking backlit pictures. I love them. And I do it with portraits and landscapes. I'm doing it with both my X-T1 and my X-T2. And I've never experienced this problem.

I'm photographing a lot of landscape. And my 10-24 is my most used lens. I sold my 14mm when I bought my 10-24 and I don't regret it all! I couldn't make with it the photos I'm making now. And I've sold my 23/1.4 to get a 23/2. I use this lens for street photography. In this case, I prefer a small, fast focussing lens. It's clear it doesn't produce the same bokeh. But I checked in my Lightroom that the number of pictures taken with my 23/1.4 at f 1.4-2, during the years I've had it, was minimal.

I agree the joystick speed is too slow. Although I would love to use the 325 focus points setting, I can't. The movement is too slow. Therefore, I have to work with the 91 focus point setting, even if sometimes this forces me to move the camera afterwards. This doesn't mean I would prefer using the D-pad. Although I could set the camera to move the focus point with the D-pad, I prefer using the joystick and configure the D-pad for other functions. But I would love Fuji gave us the possibility to move the focus point with the joystick faster.

I have observed the same since the first day. The image I see through my viewfinder is much more contrasty than the picture I take and see on screen. In some circumstances it even looks grungy. This was not happening at all with the X-T1. Then, I get a normal RAW file: Dull and with very low contrast. In fact, the RAW file behaves much differently than the one in the X-T1: I have to add much more contrast in Lightroom than before. I used to add +10/+15 and now I easily have to go up to +30/+40. Since I saw these differences in the RAW file, I didn't complain with what I saw in the EVF. But clearly, I preferred the more accurate preview in the X-T1.

Me too. I've been using two Lexar 64 GB UHS-II x2000 cards for three weeks without any problem.

I have been working with an X-T2 for 3 weeks now. I only have one 126S battery. I also use 4 normal 126 batteries that I'm cycling. I have not had any problem until now although my X-T2 gets warmer than my X-T1 making only still photos. Regarding battery life, I was initially surprised by its short life. But after starting working normally, as I did with my X-T1, I'm not noticing any difference in battery life.

Today I've got my 100-400 (I'm based in Spain). I'll be able to tell something about it in some days.