jeremyclarke

You misunderstood. What we want is to make the button act like the video button on top of the camera: programmable in shooting mode so it can do things like ISO/AF Type/Shutter/WB.

Same for me. Lozeau (Montreal) had the leather half-cases before the cameras, then the cameras came in but they still had no grips in stock. I hadn't tried to pre-order so maybe that would have worked, but when I went to pick up my camera they didn't even have MGH-XT10 in their system :S I really wanted to try it out before buying, but I'll probably give in and just buy it. I prefer the huge chunky grips from Really Right Stuff, but it looks like they haven't really been building that style for recent cameras (exists for X-E1/X-E2 but not X-T1), so I may be waiting forever with a hand cramp. FWIW 35mm f/1.4 is fine with the half-case, but my new 16mm f/1.4 is super uncomfortable to hold with one hand for any period of time. Sure it's pretty much bigger than the whole camera, but I think a nice hefty grip would make a world of difference. I don't understand why Fuji is so skimpy with the built-in grips. Who wouldn't welcome a little more by default? And even they they should still release add-on grips both for the arca-swiss plate and for those who want a truly DSLR-esque grip to hold on to.

What do you think of the idea? Is there a good reason not to make the trash button a function button in shooting mode?

We definitely need a thread about how we configure our Q menu. My favorite hack: Add the same button multiple times to strategic locations so you are never 1-2 moves away from the settings you change most often

Can you confirm that it is the case with the X-T10? My sense was that X-T10 and X-T1 fw 4.0 were basically the same system, I guess there are some important differences if this change isn't part of the X-T1 firmware. IMHO it's great and should apply to all the cameras with Shutter Type and Face Detection buttons.

I agree with you, but there is also an answer to your first question: AT LEAST THEY DO SOMETHING IN SHOOTING MODE ALREADY! The trash icon is particularly onerous because it's totally useless right now, so making it a function button would be win-win. The AF-L and AE-L buttons are important enough that you could at least argue they always need to be available. That said I'm with you, the ability to treat them as generic buttons (and assign AF-L/AE-L to other function buttons) would be extremely welcome! P.S. I'm being a bit strategic in my posts, hoping that if Fuji IS listening threads about specific fixes will be more convincing than generic threads covering dozens of potential improvements )

All good points Dis. I wonder if you'd find the buttons on the X-T10 more resilient to the glove problems despite their small size. Now that I have the camera in my hands I find the function buttons and especially D-pad MUCH MUCH easier to find and push, the d-pad in particular is perfect. The command dials are a bit worse than the X-E1 which is a bummer, I doubt they'd work any better than they do on the X-T1. Your point about Face Detection is well taken, though that's something Fuji could solve in the long run, and the latest iteration might be good enough for you to use in more situations than you might have with previous iterations. It certainly can give great results when the light is right, and when it isn't single focus points don't work perfectly either.

Warwick you're going to get slobber on the lens if you're not careful! Great shot! Another change I love: Shutter Type and Face Detection buttons now cycle values directly! Before if you assigned these to a function button pushing it would bring up a menu, you'd have to go up/down to choose a value, then push shutter to confirm. Now when you push the function button it immediately changes the value! Way faster and something many people have asked for, Thanks Fuji! That said it's really hard to see what is happening because there's no visual indicator of the change. You have to have Shutter Type set up in DISP. CUSTOM SETTINGS to see when the shutter type changes and the only way to see when FD changes is to have Photometry ticked in DISP. CUSTOM SETTINGS (because photometry shows an eye icon when FD is enabled). Hopefully Fuji adds an overlay/animation/floating menu when you use these buttons, since right now it's hard to even know if it's working (I thought my button was broken).

Is anyone else really annoyed that the trash icon button can't be assigned a "function button" for use in shooting mode? It makes no sense to me, as it never does anything unless you are in playback. There surely isn't a technical reason why it can't be re-assigned the way the video and d-pad buttons can. I can't think of a good ergonomic reason either, it's not a button I'm hitting by accident (on the X-T10 anyway). Making it customizeable would be super useful and increase the value of the cameras with no downside. Fuji if you're listening please just make it work like it should! (I'd love to put Shutter type or Face Detection on/off there, next to the drive mode dial since they often need to be changed together to get CH+AF-C working together).

flysurfer, on 23 Jun 2015 - 09:58 AM, said: Fuji should make it work with MS+ES just like they did for flash, both involve potential confusion, but SOLVE much more common and annoying confusion. Generally speaking I'd rather leave the camera on MS+ES all the time and having AF-C work with it just makes sense. If they can't work together and I am in MS+ES it drastically increases the steps to switch to continuous, as I have to change shutter AND AF mode (BTW I'll also need to change the Face Detection setting much of the time, further dissuading me from using the feature.) There are clearly times when, in a given situation, the camera is actively switching between MS and ES as lighting changes, but is it really so common in AF-C that Fuji can't make it work? IMHO as long as it picks one shutter type for the beginning of the burst and uses it until you stop shooting most users will not be shocked at the results. The worst case scenario is you have a burst that starts in MS (you confirm this before starting by looking at the screen) and ends with blown-out shots that you THOUGHT would be accounted for by the ES, but weren't because the burst was forced to use the same shutter throughout. This is of course the same thing that would happen if you were in MS only in that same bright-light situation. Either way, this will almost never come up and is no more annoying or likely than the matching situation involving flash. On the other hand, there are already tons of people who have been confused by the fact that AF-C fails when their camera is using the mechanical shutter, and in many cases those users are likely to never realize what the problem is, instead concluding that the Fuji AF-C "just isn't there yet" and "that's why I keep my DSLR".

Stealth mode (disable flash and sounds) ON/OFF

My X-E1 has frozen on me probably 10 times in the 1.5 years I've owned it. Easy enough to reset but not fun especially when it happens while writing a big batch of images to card.

My camera is in! I managed to see they had it available for sale on their website and I called them before they got to me on the list :S Oh well, hope everyone else's stores get theirs soon! Sounds like a "we don't know when they'll be in" probably means they'll get them soon at least

It's horrifying to think that this could be the reason our cameras haven't arrived. I don't even have a player for CDs in my house any more since I got a recent MacBook. If there was an option to not get the CD I would take it for environmental reasons!

Wow great stuff!!! If you tell me you were using face detect and it worked on your dog I'll have to do a celebration dance #dogshavefacestoo #facedetectmycat

On the X-E cameras my research indicated that the "true" underlying color was the silver/chrome version, while the black version was "painted" on (I realize it's not paint, but something much more appropriate). The effect was that people with the black one experienced various kinds of scraping/flaking of the black color (especially on the shutter button, probably because it's plastic), while the silver cameras just scratched/dented. I couldn't decide which I liked better aesthetically, but that was enough to put me over the edge and choose the silver one. With the X-T1 the principle is reversed. The true underlying color is black and the graphite silver is a coating on top of it. Now of course it's a much fancier coating, even further removed from "paint" and the marketing would have you believe it's even stronger than what makes up the black one, so it's probably not the same situation at the end of the day (though maybe it still hasn't been out long enough to know what the "patina" will look like on the graphite silver X-T1). Personally I hate the muted chrome of the graphite silver, much preferring the bright brushed steel of the X-E/X-T10. Obviously that's a matter of taste, but I find it interesting how different my reaction is to the two. If I was getting an X-T1 I'd definitely get the black, especially because it's cheaper (I agree with you it was a dumb move from Fuji, have just one color or charge the same for both!) Finally consider how people will interpret your camera. I expected people to think my silver X-E1 was "neat" and call me a hipster, but I didn't realize how disarming it would be. People don't seem nearly as threatened as they are by a black camera, and their false assessment that it's a film camera further works in my favor when taking pictures of people nervous about cameras. At this point even if I didn't like the silver color I'd be tempted to get it just for the social value. Then again I'm not a pro and I don't worry about people "taking me seriously" which might be easier if I had a black one and had to deal with idiots on a professional level

I paid my deposit on the 14th! Also the store here in Montreal said the deal applied 'till early July, though I also had read Jun 15, so it's possible that they extended it or something. The strange part was they had a huge stack of the X-T1 half-cases ready to go but no cameras, so it was like "do we give him the half case now? What would he do with it?" Fuji give them my camera so they can give it to me now! kthxbai

GAH! Broke down and called them: They don't have them yet and don't even have a date from Fuji! Fooey, maybe it's a Canada-wide thing.

That's a major concern for me too, though honestly I found the X-T1 with 56mm really hurt my hand to hold for any period of time, so neither is likely to satisfy me without some kind of extra grip. I have the Really Right Stuff style grip (chinese knockoff from ebay) for my X-E1 and it made a world of difference for me (it basically adds a DSLR size grip that lets me hold the camera all day long). For the X-T10 I'll try out the Fuji grip and see if it satisfies, otherwise I'll wait for the chunkier third party ones. In Canada pre-orders come with the leather half-case for free, so hopefully that will tide me over. Interestingly the aspect of the X-T1 that bothered me most was how short (not tall) it was, my hand was hanging down over the side and cramping up. Maybe the X-T10 with it's (initially awkward looking) height will be a bit more comfortable; a boy can dream anyway.

Here's my excruciatingly detailed review of the X-T1 in light of the X-T10 and it's announced features (and what I've read). I posted it on another forum but hopefully it's welcome in this thread too. I'll start with a spoiler alert: I've already pre-ordered an X-T10 and am psyched to get my hands on it, so I may be biased. That said, I had a really interesting time finally using an X-T1 for a project and I wanted to share my thoughts on what was good and bad about it, and what I'll miss/won't miss about it when my X-T10 arrives. Context: My first serious wedding, done as a gift for a friend. 60 people, in the country so lots of nature for portraits and a small, bright naturally-lit indoor venue for ceremony. I own an X-E1, kit lens and 35mm f/1.4, but I wanted a second body and a little more reach so I rented the X-T1 and 56mm f/1.2 (~100$ Canadian at Lozeau in Montreal). SILENT SHUTTER I wanted a second body for sure, but really the reason for my rental was the silent electronic shutter on the X-T1. During the ceremony it was a godsend, letting me snap away constantly without distracting the audience with noise. This worked exactly as I hoped. I was using the 56mm with the X-T1 and when I switched to my X-E1+18-55mm the difference was deafening. CLACK, CLACK, CLACK, people were turning their heads to look at me as soon as I took a shot. Switched back to X-T1 and everyone stayed focused on what was important: My friends getting married! To me this is a no brainer, and I will never buy a non-silent camera again. This feature of course applies to both the X-T1 and X-T10 so it's not a big choosing point, but it's absolutely a knock against the X-E2/X-PRO1 if anyone is still considering them as options. It also came in handy during outdoor portraits with the 56mm, where I left the camera on MS+ES so that it would only be used when necessary (to avoid the theoretical potential for rolling shutter). For most of the shots ES wasn't necessary, but when there was too much light the automatic mode worked flawlessly. No overexposed shots from not noticing the problem (common on X-E1) and no getting distracted trying to figure out what's going on when I bumped up against the 1/4000 limit. The new firmware for both X-T1 and X-T10 will make MS+ES auto mode even more useful because MS+ES won't block you from using flash when there's an appropriate shutter speed, so I'll be able to leave it on essentially all the time and use the shutter dial to select 180x when I'm using flash (which I already had to do with MS-only on X-E1 since my flash is manual). The worst risk with ES is of course rolling shutter, which I've read happens any time the movement would normally blur at 1/15s. This is a real problem and it's important that everyone is careful to avoid using ES on anything with significant movement. At the same time though it is rarely noticeable in practice even when it is surely present to some degree. None of the photos I took at the wedding were ruined by rolling shutter, and for the ones that would have been MS+ES would have chosen MS anyway (i.e. It's usually only risky in ES-only mode)/ It does take some getting used to in terms of knowing when to use MS/ES/MS+ES, and most importantly when to turn it off, but my experience was that it was manageable and I didn't end up with any important shots missed as a result. I had shutter type on a function button which worked fairly well, though the Q menu might work just as efficiently. Fuji: Please change the effect of the "shutter type" function button! Right now it works like an ISO or white balance menu would: Click, up/down to choose, click to select. This is absolutely overkill for a menu with only three items. It should instead work like "View Mode": Click->select next item, Click->Select next item. That would mean I only need to push 1 button once or twice, rather than needing at least two buttons and needing at least 3 pushes. FACE DETECTION Flawed but extremely useful. Definitely have been missing this on the X-E1. I kept this on almost constantly and it rarely caused problems. For any kind of shot with no faces (details, landscapes, etc) it works normally as single-point AF, but when there's a distinct person it just locks on and nails focus on their eye even at f/1.2. Worst case scenario I needed to move the AF point over their face, which I was going to have to do anyway, but in many situations by the time I did so the face box appeared and the final AF was the face detection so the feature still worked and ensured I got precise focus even better than the AF box would have given. Learning how to use this "robot vision" and give it time to work is something I'll have to practice, but damn it's helpful. While face detection alone wouldn't have justified the rental, it was a priceless feature to integrate. I'm really excited Fuji is continuing to innovate on this feature and take it seriously with the new firmware. Proper eye-detection is going to be one of the most important features for users of ultra-fast primes like Fuji specializes in. Note on Face Detection function button: I had Face Detection set to the front function button to be able to quickly turn it off when there were faces in the frame I didn't want to focus on. The criticism of the shutter button applies in the exact same way to Face Detection, which should just switch the feature on/off rather than pulling up an awful up/down menu with only two options. If they made it work like View Mode it would only require 1 click on 1 button in all situations, rather than 3 clicks on at least 2 buttons. Fuji: What we need now is for Face Detection to seamlessly integrate with all the other modes in a way that doesn't force you to turn it on/off all the time, but instead gives you a way to "cancel" face detect for any given shot if you don't want to. E.g. Framing a shot of something in someone's hand, but face detect focuses on their face in the background. Hit a button (focus assist?) and the box dissappears, returning to the single AF point that would show if there was no face (currently you'd have to disable face detection completely and re-enable it after). Fuji: Another thing that's direly needed is a way to switch the "dominant" face in the shot (MUCH more than we need to pick left/right eye WTF). Currently it picks one face (based on centrality according to the manual) and you are stuck with either focusing on that face or turning off Face Detection completely. This is a huge bummer, because the camera already knows there are many faces (non-dominant ones are shown in a white box) but has no way to let you choose which to focus on. Some mechanic to cycle between the various faces would be extremely useful (I keep thinking of how the tab key works in Word of Warcraft to cycle between enemies). Obviously a touch screen would be ideal, but even without it there must be a button that could cycle between faces (trash?) Fuji: Finally in group portraits I was dying for a way to know whether the non-dominant faces were also in focus or not. My goal when using shallow DoF is to get the eyes all lined up, line myself up with that plane, then focus so everyone is sharp. As-is all the non-dominant faces are white no matter what, so there's no way of knowing whether I'm aligned with the group. It would be great if there were three colors: Green for dominant, white for non-dominant-also-mostly-focused and red for non-dominant-out-of-focus. This would let me rotate myself until there was no red before firing and not end up surprised by one blurry face when I get home. PHOTOMETRY DIAL Now we're getting into differences between X-T1 and X-T10, because the spot/auto/full metering dial is among the features "missing" on the X-T10. In summary this dial is useless. I didn't really need to change the metering mode over the course of the weekend and when I did (heavy backlighting) it didn't solve my problem and Exp. Comp. was faster and more effective. The dial itself is cool to look at, but surprisingly hard to manipulate in the intended way. The tiny nub at the front got "stuck" in the left position (spot metering) and I had to fuss with it to get it back to auto, making me not want to use it too often. Of course it DID move a lot when bringing my camera in and out of my bag, which was obnoxious and resulted in me being confused about how dark my shots were coming out at one point. Final verdict: Anyone who loves this dial please say so, otherwise Fuji should find another setting to create a hardware switch for. Personally I'd have WAY more use for an AF type (single/zone), Face Detection or Shutter type switch than this photometry one. As-is, this dial is a reason NOT to get an X-T1 since it's a useless liability (to me at least). ISO DIAL Like most others I was fascinated by the ISO dial when the X-T1 came out. It felt like the final frontier of manual control, and I was worried I'd miss it if I bought a camera without it (i.e the X-PRO2 who's format seems like it wouldn't have space). Having used it my heart has grown cold. I don't think it's necessary and was fine with Auto-ISO over the course of the weekend. The real problem is that Fuji's Auto-ISO implementation is so good that the dial isn't necessary. There's no "creative" reason to select a particular ISO (unlike shutter speed and aperture) so there's no real reason to choose a specific value as the dial implies you should. I set the minimums/maximums for the auto system and just pay attention to whether the camera is able to use them or not. For me a switch that just said "base ISO" and "auto ISO" would work just as well and take up a lot less space/visual clutter than the current dial on the X-T1. Alternately a nub-style dial with just "auto1" "auto2" and "auto3" would completely solve my ISO needs. Maybe others will dissagree, but I bet a lot of people who lusted for the ISO dial now basically ignore it. I for one won't waste any tears crying over it's absence on the X-T10. Fuji: All we need to be completely rid of ISO dials is a couple more tweaks to the auto ISO settings. Specifically the ability to indicate a target aperture the same way we designate a desired shutter speed. I often want "Max ISO 6400, Minimum 1/100s, Wide open aperture", but when there's enough light for ISO 200 I am left with the camera raising the aperture to f/4 without raising the shutter speed to 1/4000 first. I know I can use the manual aperture for this, but it would be good if there was an option to integrate that decision into the full automatic logic. DRIVE DIAL Unlike the ISO dial on the X-T1 the drive dial was extremely useful. On my X-E1 changing drive modes is a shockingly byzantine experience, especially the way CH and CL are so hard to get to. Having the little nub dial was a huge improvement, both because it was easy to change and because it was easy to look at the camera and see what setting was active. For this feature the X-T1 and X-T10 are roughly equivalent since both have a drive dial, but if anything I'd give the advantage to the X-T10. To me the drive dial is more valuable than the ISO dial and I'd rather have it as a full milled metal wheel rather than the nub system. On the X-T10 the drive mode is visible when looking down (along with aperture, shutter and Exp. Comp.) and I can turn it precisely with two fingers rather than shifting the nub with just one finger. That last part is a mixed bag since changing it with one finger is also a valuable option, but I don't need to turn the dial that often (compared to say exp. comp.) so the big wheel will work fine. The big wheel also lets it hold more options (9 rather than 7) without being any more finicky which is a bonus. Overall the X-T10 has 2 fewer dials than the X-T1, but as it stands I won't miss either of them. The nub dials for photometry and drive mode end up being overkill for my purposes, and though it might not scream "professional" compared to the complexity of the X-T1, the simplicity of the top plate of the X-T10 is more beautiful IMHO, and at the end of the day removing useless dials means reducing the number of issues I have from dials moving when I take the camera in and out of bags (of which the aperture dial on lenses will always give me enough surprises to keep life interesting). BUTTONS/COMMAND DIALS Another major difference between the X-T1 and X-T10 is how the command dials and buttons work in relation to each other, which is explained by Fuji as resulting from the X-T1's weather sealing. I'll start by saying that obviously if you NEED the weather sealing then this is a non-issue: You need the X-T1 and it doesn't matter how "mushy" or hard to use the buttons are. Fuji had to make concessions and you get a lot in return for the awkward buttons. That said: I hate the buttons on the X-T1. I hate how recessed the directional pad buttons are, I could barely find the focus-assist/Q buttons without looking and the command dials were mushy and hard to spin if my hands were even a tiny bit sweaty. It makes sense that I felt like I was wearing rubber gloves (both keep out water) but it was not a good feeling at all. Now of course, I haven't tried the X-T10 buttons yet, but from what I've read they feel and work just like on the X-E1, and I LOVE those buttons compared to what the X-T1 has. The command dials especially were disappointing on the X-T1, because they don't have the function buttons integrated into them which means you need to learn two extra "positions" for your fingers to take and you are that much more likely to have to use multiple positions to get something done. On the X-T10 you can click the dial, spin it to choose an option and click again to confirm, changing a setting with only one finger and without moving your hand. This is how it should be. IMHO the extra buttons also make the camera a little uglier/noisier to look at because there are extra buttons visible. Sure more buttons is usually good and makes the camera look cool, but for me invisible tools are pretty much always more valuable than ones that take up extra space (and they could still have those extra buttons if they wanted, giving you even more shortcuts). I also found the front button in particular to be frustrating because I would press it when I didn't mean to, especially when I was looking at the LCD and changing settings. I would surely get used to it eventually, but I would never push the command dial by accident on the X-T10. Hopefully this was a temporary setback and Fuji can figure out how to make clicky buttons and a weather sealed dial that has an integrated button for the X-T2. For now this is definitely a knock against the usability of the X-T1 that makes me glad I'm getting an X-T10 instead. BONUS: SR AUTO SWITCH I consider this one a "bonus" because I didn't actually get to try it, but since it's missing on the X-T1 and I'm excited about it as a feature of X-T10 I figured I'd mention it. The full auto switch seems like a really smart idea to me that will help both hardcore professionals and hardcore amateurs. For amateurs the appeal is obvious: Use that lever and you don't have to learn about photography or your own camera, only disabling it when you have time to ponder the unknowable mysteries of the exposure square and focus points. For pros the appeal is more nuanced, but I think very important and multi-faceted. For starters there's the obvious use case of handing off the camera to a noob. In that situation other Fuji's are ridiculously complicated to hand over, requiring potentially several dial/knob turns and a trip through the menus to set AF to something simple (anyone else tired of trying to get people to put the box over your face?). The new auto switch means you'll be able to hand off the camera after a single change AND you can immediately change it back to your manual settings after, rather than having to remember/re-create them once you get the camera back. I'm really excited about having full auto work like this, especially now that the face detection/zone focus modes are powerful enough that it will work "like a smartphone" and help noobs get the pictures they expect. To me though there's a whole other appeal, which is that it gives you a way to have a second "save state" for all your settings, which is notably missing from Fuji cameras. Sure you can use the "Custom settings" system in the Q menu, but that thing is garbage, only letting you save the stupid JPEG related settings and ignoring everything important (af mode, shutter mode, face detect, timer). I find that Custom settings feature on my X-E1 messes me up by accident more than it helps me, and I'll probably remove it once I have a camera that lets me customize the Q menu. On the other hand this new SR Auto switch won't let you have a CUSTOMIZEABLE set of saved settings, but because it changes all settings to their most automatic format it can completely change the behavior of the camera in an instant without losing the work you put into the current setup. I can imagine this being extremely useful when I'm doing very precise work with the camera but have an intermittent need for more general shooting. E.g. While shooting macro I have everything on manual to make the flash work, I have a lot of settings configured in ways that make normal shooting impossible. If I suddenly see a deer with the X-T1 I might need to change a lot of config to get a shot of it, but with the SR Auto switch I could get a shot in seconds, then revert back to my elaborate macro configuration just as fast. Similar situations would come up any time you're using manual flash or when you're switching back and forth between two lenses (e.g. f/4->f/1.2) where one type of shooting can function on auto but the other requires special configuration. Finally I'm excited about the SR Auto switch because if everything else about the camera is set to auto already (auto ISO, shutter, and aperture, how I usually use my X-E1) it will act as a super-fast switch for Face Detection/Zone AF, letting me use SR Auto to let the camera try to guess the AF point and disabling it to use the D-Pad instead. I'll have to wait and see how often this comes up, but I'm guessing there are a lot of situations where it will be useful (as long as the actual "scene recognition" doesn't get in the way and overdo it, though no one has complained about that yet). FUJI: For bonus points make the auto switch configurable, and give us a few more options! Would love if you could choose it's effect from a list like this: * Enable/disable SR auto * Enable/disable Face Detection * Enable/Disable Zone Focusing * Enable/Disable MS+ES auto mode. If it was that configurable I bet a lot of "pros" would be dying for a similar switch on the X-T1 CONCLUSION: I WANT MY X-T10 NOW PLEASE! There you have it, tons of detail that adds up to "both cameras are great" and "X-T10 is an easy choice for me." If I needed weather sealing I would get the X-T1 of course, but I might just keep it as a second body for bad weather and sports. For almost all types of shooting I do the X-T10 would be just as capable and ergonomically more appropriate, in addition to being much much cheaper P.S. I didn't talk about buffer rates, in which context X-T1 easily comes out ahead. If you need 8FPS for dozens of shots then you need the X-T1. Personally I never want to deal with all those RAW files, so CL is fast enough and from what I understand the X-T10 will do fine at that rate. P.P.S. The other significant difference I didn't talk about is the picture-in-picture focus aid mode, which is awesome and only exists on the X-T1 because the X-T10 has a smaller viewfinder. I didn't use this very much but will indeed miss it on the X-T10 since it strikes me as the best manual focus solution. That said focus peaking will still work great and having a non-mushy focus-zoom button on the command dial is just as valuable to me

I will last until it's about to become too late for me to get over there before they close.

I kind of love the effects of the heavy motors in the 35mm, I can feel it working out the focus and I can feel when it's done even without looking at the screen (though I of course must look at the screen because all too often it has stopped on a failed focus state). That said it is a bit slow. Hopefully the new firmware will fix it. For me the true value of the 35mm is when I want only one lens total. It works in low light, offers nice shallow DoF for head shots and the FL lets me have capture most subjects in most situations in a pleasant way. 23mm would be better for tight spaces but I like the 35mm because I don't have to get RIGHT in people's faces for candids etc. Ultimately I'd rather have the 56mm and 23mm (or 16mm) together, but I like being able to have a single lens and not have to change it. I'm torn now because I feel like I need to buy both the 56 and the 23 before I'll ever choose one of them over the 35mm. Strongly considering getting the 16mm and working with that and the 35mm as an "everything" combo (with my 50-230mm for nature work).

Currently resisting the urge to call my shop because they said they would call me when it's ready... Resisting.....

Guys I really doubt they would delay this firmware to "create market for X-T10", that would be a horrible public relations move as it implies their customers are fools who can't wait a few days for a new feature. Much more likely is that they still have a couple known bugs that apply to the X-T1 and they'd rather have one update than send out the current version now and then another in a week just to fix the remaining issues. They are also probably worried that pros using the X-T1 will be mad about new bugs, whereas people with a brand new X-T10 are less likely to be mad since "it had that problem since I bought it". Even if the bug also exists on the X-T10 they have a lot more reasons to ship the X-T10 on time because of all the trucks/planes/stores etc. involved. Pushing back that date could be disastrous for launch, whereas delaying a firmware update for X-T1 probably won't lose them more than a few random sales globally. All the store employees will know about the firmware and be showing people the X-T10 if they ask about relevant features. It's much more likely that a store would fail to update the X-T1 right away than it is that they would sell someone an X-T10 because of it's newer features. Finally, the word "beta" is being overused in this case. Considering they were planning to release it today the leaked firmware is probably more accurately a "Release candidate" in software development parlance, meaning "we think it's ready but we're still making sure", compared to a "beta" which means "this has new features we are still testing and probably known bugs we are still fixing". Of course it makes sense for them to call it a "beta" because they don't want us to use it!