flamidey
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Posts posted by flamidey
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Did you check the option to have large display setting? It should be off to show the digital scale.
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Hi,
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LST8MJN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_YN8HJDY9DW42FSYR61XW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It can be powered through USB or with a universal DC adapter.
It works fine.
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23 hours ago, Pete61 said:
Hi I am Pete I am new on here I have bought a brand new xt4 I do own an xt3 I tried the xt4 out last Saturday and found that none of the pictures were sharp I tried manual focusing I made sure IS was on continuous have I missed something ? or is this xt4 no good and need returning 🤔
there are many possible explanations...
it's a bit hard to help without seeing some examples and have more info.
First thing I would check in manual focus is the diopter adsjustment for the EVF.
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19 hours ago, svgnbl said:
...doesn't seem to autofocus even if a flavor of autofocus is turned on before connecting the USB.
I got it to autofocus so I would say it's possible. It has to be in Continuous focus (and/or eye detect) AND have the pre-focus option enabled.
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On 6/4/2021 at 11:03 AM, flamidey said:
Ordered high quality cables, we'll see how if it solves the problem.
Actually it did.
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On 5/31/2021 at 10:43 AM, flamidey said:
At the moment I'm using USB capture card + USB-c for power. The camera doesn't actually charge the battery but it also doesn't seem to draw from it so it works for long sessions.
I've had a so much trouble with the direct USB to PC using Fuji's Webcam software...
I found a decently priced dummy battery, I will test is and report here.
Received the dummy, works perfectly, no overheating or anything. I power it with a Belker adjustable DC power adapter. It is set to deliver 9V. The link to the dummy on Amazon US is
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LST8MJN?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1 -
Ordered high quality cables, we'll see how if it solves the problem.
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9 hours ago, codeslubber said:
What problems have you had? works every time for me. Within the bounds I had to discover through caveman trial and error:
- Zoom works every time
- Google Meet only works in Chrome
I think the biggest pit to fall into is thinking you can just plug it in and then the app will popup. I go into Zoom and make an instant call and then fiddle with the video. This past week I then got an invite to the meeting, clicked on it, and Zoom asked 'do you want to leave this meeting and go to that one?' I clicked yes and it all worked fine.
During operation the only problem i have encountered is the camera has gone off several times. Few of those times I had it plugged into a Thunderbolt 4 hub, but for sure it did it plugged into the laptop as well.
- USB connection: not working from a USB 3 hub connected to a USB 3 port, not working with some cables, but more or less randomly (will work sometimes with a cable but not all the time)
- Webcam Software: not recognizing the camera, not showing up in anything else than Zoom (namely OSB or Skype)
- When it works, no control over anything while broadcasting, very laggy at 30 fps, unusable at 60 fps.
I find the HDMI interface way better.
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13 hours ago, codeslubber said:
Yes that's what I have read. Elaborate on why the dummy is not a good option? yeah I was not really clear about that. Seems that there were a lot of dummy options for the 3, not so much for the 4. But maybe that is the best option. My thought is I might only need super long sessions once in a while so I would favor a solution that has additional utility (dummy would not). Even extra batteries. Also should have mentioned of course the battery grip. Still finite but 3x longer, that would probably do it, but $329 for that option.
At the moment I'm using USB capture card + USB-c for power. The camera doesn't actually charge the battery but it also doesn't seem to draw from it so it works for long sessions.
I've had a so much trouble with the direct USB to PC using Fuji's Webcam software...
I found a decently priced dummy battery, I will test is and report here.
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2 hours ago, codeslubber said:
Looks like dummy batteries are not a great option.
Hi,
Could you elaborate?
Somewhat in a similar boat here.
My understanding is that the camera cannot use the USB both as a data channel for the video and as a source of power. -
On 10/12/2020 at 2:49 PM, jesse4171 said:
I have a brand new xt4 and love it. However when I attempt to record video, and have an external wired lav mic (rode) wired into the mic jack, there is NO audio. I can tell because not only does the outpout video have no audio, but when I look at the viewfinder, there is no movement in the screen's "audio level" indicator. Unplugging the 3.5mm jack, and the indicator rises and falls with any audio, and, without the mic plugged in, there is audio.
I have all fairly generic settings in the menus, and have been unable to determine WHY my video is not getting audio. Please help, thank you!
Do you have a TRS plug (NOT a TRRS)? TRS = 2 black bands on the jack, TRRS = 3 bands.
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21 hours ago, David Fleetwood said:
Hey there, I was wondering which dummy battery you are using. The ones on Amazon commonly have reviews saying they don't fit correctly resulting in frequent drops in the connection, especially with the X-S10. The Fuji one appears not to be in stock anywhere. I'd love to know one that is proven to work with this camera.
Thanks in advance!
I use the Fotga NP-W126 battery coupler and it fits perfectly with a very stable connection.
- YOUTA and David Fleetwood
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On 5/15/2021 at 2:27 PM, trialnoj said:
Hello, I have an X-A7 camera, which is pretty ok, but the two main problem is that the peaking disappears when I press the REC button, so it's impossible to use manual focus.
The another weir problem is that the histogram disappears after switching from photo to video mode.
THE question is, that in the X-S10 these problems had been resolved?
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How about the X-T200, does that has peaking during video?
Thanks a lot.
Both function as expected on my X-S10, both zebras and peaking while recording.
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There are actually two sets of 1-12 numbers for the hours. Move the hours number past 12 to access the PM ones.
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On 3/31/2021 at 6:35 PM, John Nasvhille said:
Thanks already!
Just to be sure; what do you mean with choosing F from front dial? I've 'S.S.' setup as front dial setting (picture here), but not al lot happens when moving 😄
Does the P mode appear in the lower left ?
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On my X100V, if I set the front dial to Program Shift, it works even in OVF mode. You need to select the full auto aperture mode (lens aperture set to A, then choose F from the front dial, move it all the way to the right).
Face Detection is not compatible with the OVF to the best of my knowledge.
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On 3/25/2021 at 12:48 AM, CatsAreGods said:
Well, even Canon is now selling (expensive!) "webcam kits" that basically set you up with a dummy battery and power supply to get around this. I expect that someone will soon come up with a product or 3D print design that will do the same for Fujifilm...maybe even Fujifilm.
There are dummy batteries for NP-W126, even a kit from Fuji.
I'm using one, let me know if you want the reference.
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On mine, if I set it to USB Raw Conv./Backup Restore, the backup fucntion works. That's about it though, no tethering whatsoever.
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Hi,
The RAW is the full uncropped image.
In Lightroom Classic, after import (if you have the option to treat separately RAW and JPEGs turned on), you will see the cropped JPG and the integrated preview of the RAW showing the cropped preview generated by the camera. As soon as you edit the RAW, you will see the uncropped version.
If you have the option turned off you see the RAWs as cropped previews in the Library and the uncropped RAWs in the development module.
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On 2/10/2021 at 2:53 PM, CatsAreGods said:
Oops.
That one:
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On 2/9/2021 at 5:59 AM, MGboston said:
So the capture card worked? If yes, which card did you select? If not, what did you resort to?
I use this one:
Audio isn't its forte and I'd advise using an alternate audio capture source but video is perfect in 1080p 60 fps.
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It's sad that Fuji hasn't made this work. Even sadder they probably did it on purpose.
After trying the Webcam software unsuccesfully on the X-S10, I resorted to getting a USB HDMI capture card. It wouldn't even show an image while the X100V worked on the same configuration!
Honestly the card is IMHO a much better solution quality-wise as it can easily capture 1080p at 60 fps (which is more than enough for webcamming and as 4k is not possible with a cheap card), but you can also record videos or livestram with real time effects thanks to a free software like OBS wich recognizes the card + camera with no trouble. You can even output f-log and have a real-ime LUT in OBS, then use OBS to broadcast to Skype/Zoom/Whatever.
It's an additional piece of equipement for sure but you can get a good one for a reasonable amount of money (in the 30-50$) and it works on mac and pc, while still being easily transported. Plus, you get 10 bits (not sure you get 10 bit when using the webcam fuji software but it would be surprising).
The capture "card" (more like a dongle) typically does not require any installation and shows up as a USB device on PC that you can choose in any video conferencing software you use normally. The caveat is that you probably need a USB 3 connection to get 60fps.
Other advantage is that you have full control of the camera while the HDMI output is active.
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On 9/22/2020 at 1:36 PM, Luna_Tick said:
@flamidey Thanks! What are your thoughts on using the Canon EF 800mm with a Fuji camera? Strange that there are no competitors to the Nikon ultra zooms (which are so Amazing for astronomy, actually). I was hoping there would be a Fuji-compatible DIY solution that beats the p1000/p900 in all areas (of performance/quality).
Missed your reply, sorry.
You will probably have a hell of a time focusing at 800mm unless it's a completely static subject or using very high aperture numbers.
The 800 will only give you 1200mm equivalent anyway, so off by a wide margin.
If you're going for astro at 3000mm, you are going to need a 2000$ mount and you won't be able to see anything because you'd be at f11+ equivalent (except for moon).
For the moon, you will get the same or better results with the 400 + 1.4x than with the p1000. The p1000 has a 1/2.3" sensor. That's 13 times smaller surface, which means you can crop a lot from the APS-C of the Fuji and get equivalent results.
You will probably need some kind of stabilization, either a very good tripod or a stabilized lens (like the Fuji 100-400)...
A few links about Astrophotography and the Fuji :
https://fujifilm.blog/2018/04/30/an-introduction-to-astrophotography-with-your-x-series/
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On Bulb the shutter will stay open as long as you press the shutter button. If you want to modulate the speed, you need to use T mode.
Then, according to the Button/Dial setting, you can change the Shutter speed with the front or back dial.
Scathing Review of Fuji X-H2s
in Fuji X-H1 / Fuji X-H2s / Fuji X-H2
Posted
It's a bit hard to take what this person says seriously nowadays. I mean, he literally called Einstein a dumbass...