iantownsend

Condemned cottage on the North east coast of Scotland

I liked my X-T1 and thought the images were fine, but the camera itself was missing something. I was a Canon user previously. I sold the 5D MKII, but held onto the 6D for a few things. When the X-Pro2 came out, I ordered it right away. I loved the camera so much I sold my 6D and trying to use the X-T1 frustrated me because of the lack of joystick. I sold the X-T1 right away once the X-T2 was announced. It depends on what you are shooting as to how much of an improvement you will notice with the AF. I shoot a lot of wildlife and I feel like the AF improvement is huge. I don't do a lot of video, but I do appreciate the fact that I can if i want to. Everything you stated you're missing is there. If I didn't like it, I would have sold it already and went back to the X-T1. I really like the files from the new sensor, but obviously that is subjective. 

To me I like to "spread the wealth".  Having large 128GB cards, even 64G is too many eggs in one basket.  In my gear I have a split of 32G and 16G SD cards.  I can take a total of 8,943 images shooting JPEG + Raw.  If I lose a card, or it's somehow damaged, or the camera is stolen, I only lose either 891, or 480 (approx) images on the card depending if they were 32 or 16G.  Also, Once the card is full and back in my card wallet the card wallet is NO LONGER KEPT with the cameras.  The card wallet is on my person wherever I go, at anytime.  If the camera gear is stolen, I still have my images.  
That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

That's a lot of images!

64, 64 or
64,32,32
 
Memory cards do get corrupted even though it's rare nowadays.
 
I carry 64, 64 and 32 as back up.

Just the 16-55 will be fine. f2.8 is plenty for most occasions. Travel light, walk lots, that brings you good pictures. I travel almost daily for work, and even though I nearly always have 2 bodies in my bag, I rarely use more than just the 1 body and 1 lens.
 
David Duchemin, Magnum photographer, says it's the tip he gives everyone who asks the same question: one body, one lens. Nothing more.

given the choice of lenses that you have available to you ( I am not going to advise any lens or lenses that you haven’t got to your avail ) and the need to reduce things to a minimum I too would take the 16-55 and nothing else but the one camera with the lens.

I use both Blackrapid and Peakdesign's slide.
 
There are pro and cons on each side:
 
- I have had failure with Blackrapid a couple of time, the hook point can mis lock and make you think your camera is attached while it is not; visual verification is mandatory if you then to hook and un-hook your system on regular basis during the event.
- That being said, the Blackrapid is really super easy to work with, except when I need to take really low or really high reach or extend the camera past the hanging point.
 
- Peakdesign slide feels more steady, after all if it is around your neck, or shoulder you feel it, the hook points are solid and they can be annoying to remove, which is good for me.
- But it's not as fast as the Blackrapid, you need to fiddle a bit too much to get the camera back into view to snap at something that is unexpected. Or you need to leave your camera hanging at your neck, which I really hate, I rather have it on shoulder and the camera on the side or back than in front of me on my chest.
 
Another point, if you need to use tripods, Peakdesign might be better as it doesn't need to use the bottom screwing slot, which allows easy camera transport between spots.
 
In general, if I travel only with just the camera I will take the Peakdesign Slide and have it on shortest distance and keep the camera on the back, if I have a camera bag with me and need to fiddle a lot with lower/higher shots and swap lenses, I will use the Blackrapid as I would have more mobility with it and still keep the camera hanging against my hip when not needed.
 
Sidenote, I have medium grip on my X-T1 so the plate is not going to block the battery door.

There are many such comparisons on line 
 
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17975.0
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1428441
 
I don’t normally respond to threads asking for advise on one particular brand that I don’t own or have tried but I really have some points that I would like you to consider about using a sling tout court ( so not one of any particular brand)
 
I really truly have my doubts on the use of these things!
 
 
That’s when the generation gap reveals itself.
 
I don’t understand side slings. They are trendy, flashy, hip, but they cause more damage to cameras that anything else out there.
 
https://fstoppers.com/originals/why-insurance-could-have-saved-me-when-my-peak-design-strap-failed-59094
http://petapixel.com/2014/09/17/peak-design-strap-failures-causing-dropped-cameras-photographers/
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/comments/3pl1fm/lets_talk_about_straps_because_mine_just_caused/
 
Are you sure that you want a sling to wear on the side, particularly for the situations that you describe with a kid moving about and you rapidly turning trying to grab the camera and smashing into an object like a street lamp or a fire hydrant to catch the pict and knocking your camera from your side?
 
They look cool, I give you that, but a traditional front neck strap (though not cool) sets the camera in the best and safest position side slings or a holster would, for sure, cause me problems.
 
These things put a lot of strain onto your camera, cameras are rubbed against jeans rivets and are knocked into doors or bump into objects and people while turning fast to react to a kid running into you or a person calling you.
 
Beware!
 
 
Good luck!

I don't know if this is possible via firmware, but I'd like to see an update to the flash system (mostly just support for the speed light's AF assist beam). HSS would be nice, and some triggers that will allow HSS, second curtain, etc.
 
I wouldn't mind seeing a more specific B&W film stock, too. Even punching up the contrast a bit, I find the Monochrome a bit flat and awkward. I'd love to see something like Tri-X.
 
Last for me, I wish you could choose to make the AF-L/Instant AF button work like the AF-On that DSLRs have. AF-S is fine as is, but I don't like how with AF-C, you have to use the shutter button for continuous focus. I find I can't shoot and keep focusing, I have to pick my finger up and re initiate focus. With back button AF, you can keep focusing and shoot when you want.

That's exactly what we call it in English

I would advise you to send the camera to Germany since apparently our shops send the Fuji cameras in Germany too, it might take less.
 
 
In all the EU guarantee is 24 months (MINIMUM) , the UK think they can make an exception to this rule but really they shouldn’t.
 
Read here
 
http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-1677034/Two-year-warranty-EU-law.html
 
 
In the NL ( where theoretically the terms allow for a much longer term) this is a different matter ( a more complicated matter, if you want to make a claim any further than the 24 months EU minimum )
 
The fact that you bought it from Amazon UK says nothing about where the guarantee applies or was issued, it should say on the guarantee itself and on the receipt.
 
Get in touch directly with Fuji Japan and ask them to intervene. They are normally very helpful.
 
https://contact.fujifilm.com/cgi-bin/mail/form.cgi/contact_tokyo_headquarters?_ga=1.225719197.665361477.1432290617
 
I’ve already suggested elsewhere on this forum that I might be given a job from Fuji 

X-Pro1. XF 18-55mm ISO 800. f10. 55mm. 1/60
 
 

I've read a lot of web articles regarding the 18-135 not being as good, or tack sharp as the 18-55.  You may want to test it and if you don't like it return the item.  For me, it seems a tad large even though I really like the range.  In order to supplement my 18-55 I bought the 55-200 and I'm quite pleased with it. I had to choose between the 55-200 and the 50-140, but I did not want to carry all that extra weight around and drop almost 1,000 more.  For that, I'd have kept my Nikon 70-200 2.8.  

I have printed a nice sharp image that was approx 8 - 10 megapixel as a 2ft x 3ft stretched canvas.  I have a few of them from yester-year.  They all look excellent.  Canvas is a more forgiving medium to print on.  Remember, viewing distance (optimal) is at least 2x the vertical size of the print.  Its ok for an image to not be perfectly sharp or noise free ... it is the subject matter that people will notice and the large 'wow factor' from it being nice and big.  Only you will be the one to notice and give a care about the technical details.  People can print larger than they think from just listening to others on the web.  I have found from experience that I can print twice as large as what a print shop recommends and still be quite happy with the results. 
 
What people don't realize is the image needs to be pre-sharpened before printing and the pre-sharpening needs to be stronger than they would think it should be.  It may look oversharpened on your screen, but it will print great.  Your screen and print material (paper, canvas, metal, etc) show the image different, so if it looks oversharpened on the screen, it will probably be just right for print.  But trial and error and experimenting is without a doubt the best approach.  Have fun!

Prints with the size of A3 (210 x 297 mm or 8.3 x 11.7 in) can be done without any problems. 

I agree with the OP - I don't get the whole "you need to go shoot film" thing. If you fell in love with photography using film cameras then there is the nostalgia - if you fell in love with photography using digital cameras then shooting film is just stupid. There is nothing you can do with a film camera that you can't do with a digital camera. The only reason to recommend film is to feel superior - we're not superior - we're old. Film cameras required that you think about more technical things to get a decent image - digital cameras can do most of that technical thinking for you so all that is left is composition. Composition is the art - the rest is just the BS you had to do to get there. Modern cameras take away the BS and leave only the art. If slowing down is the point of going back to film then just go buy a really small memory card that will only fit a few dozen images. Same experience - virtually zero cost. Oh, and don't preview the images you took, send them to someone else and have them give you some prints in a week or two so you can see how you did. Ah yes, good times

The good thing about forum is it brings people with very diverse experiance and opinions.  I am the complete oposit to the original poster. Russion SLR Zenit, Canon QL, Olympus OM1 and OM2, Nikormar, Minolta Autocord first of the 120 cameras, Mamiya C330 Press Super 23 and Hassleblad C500. Then came a gap until the first digital Olympus 8080 was a complete failure the auto focus was ug.  Then came the Nikon 7S it was a good camera  but then upgraded to a 200 - very poor camera but then came the D3 great.
 
But now I have Fujifilm X-Pro1 and XT1 wow I do not miss any of the previously hardware. Digital has come so far with some way to go.  Has Sony just  set the bar even higher? Future? I think I will see what the XT2 will offer XT10 not for me too slow when shooting RAW.  Sell the X-Pro1 cos anything over 60mm lens is a compramise.
 
A fav bit of kit I have is very inexpensive LED ring light(not flash), great for portrates, my cats and more. couple it with my 60mm lens I enjoy.
 
Now its so nice to be able to carry a range of lenses plus bodies all in one bag, before with the Nikon D3 plus lenses I needed to go out in my 1 Ton truck and for what? smoother images greater range of tones but now the difference is being eroded. With the advantage of greater portability.
 
My other great interest is editing my images it started in the dark room using a stopwatch hands and bits of card, the smell of fixer ugh but now its so civalised and so flexible.  Coral Paint Shop Pro, I hate Lightroom. Now we are spoilt for choice there is such a great range of editing software out there, RAW converters Optical correctors as well. It goes without saying there is no substitute for first class images out of the camera.
 
To refer back to the original post does my past experiance help to-day yes, but only as the ability to capture good images. Understand about depth of field and other tecchnical aspects. To-day we see more images caputred on mobile phones!!!!!!!

Thank you so much for sharing your opinion, OP, the world really needs to know Mr abjurina doesn't care about film.
 
I feel now is the right time to confess I don't care about pop music.

Meh. As much as I appreciate the advice, I'm not in love with the idea of spending money to go back in time with technology just to "experience the feeling" of film. I liken that kind of thing to telling people that they need to go try aol dial-up internet so that they can experience the sound of a modem connecting and slow down their internet experience so that their clicks will be more thought out.
 
I get plenty of satisfaction with planning and carefully shooting with digital. My point in all of this is that I am wondering if any other photographers out there love Fuji and have no affinity to film.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, this isn't really a rant, but I think that there have to be SOME photographers out there who will agree with me. First, a little history:
 
I've never shot film. Never. Now, that doesn't count point-and-shoot stuff, but I've never developed film, or ever taken a fancy at SLR film cameras or have any history with film. Here is why I say this:
 
I don't have any nostalgia or affinity to whether or not fuji cameras seem like film cameras. I don't care. All I know is that I like the cameras. I don't have a long, drawn-out story about how I used to shoot old Hasselblads or Leica's back in the day, and how the look and feel of the fuji quality reminds me of film because, well, it doesn't. I don't have any good memories of film. I was never given a film camera by my dad when I was 5, and I don't have great memories of smelling developer or whatever those chemicals are. I personally can't even tell the difference (on a computer screen, at least) between images shot with film and images shot with digital. 
 
Call me crazy, but I just like Fuji cameras. I just like the dials and controls better than nikon or canon DSLR's and I just like the quality of color and how well the files hold detail in the highlights and shadows. I just feel like every great photographer who is shooting Fuji these days has this really romantic story about how they used to shoot film and how it led them to Fuji cameras. You know what led me to Fuji X cameras? Nothing. I just like them. Sadly, not an amazing story, but hey, it's true. 
 
 

I've already said "Thanks" a number of times with my credit card. 
Dick

Thank you for the reply.
I found a new X-T1 including 35 1.4 lens for 1190 euros. I am a happy man now!