jlmphotos

The 35 1.4 will def. work on the X-T4!! I've owned this magnificent lens since 2012!  It's my "you'll have to pry it from my cold dead fingers" lens.  Period.  I use it on my XT1, XT2, and XH1.  The 35 1.4 is equivalent to a 50mm full frame.  You may also want to check out the new Vitrox (?) 33mm 1.4.  However, I prefer my Fuji lenses.
 

The 16MP sensor in the X-Pro1 and X-T1 is still widely appreciated for its character. Compared to the later 24 and 26MP sensors, the pixel pitch is quite a bit larger. This impacts the levels of noise reduction and sharpening needed for the images.
When moving to the 24/26MP sensors Fuji adopted a slightly different approach. They moved to a more aggressive NR and Sharpening. Advantage is that the images look cleaner and sharper, but the side-effect is that esp. skin (but also other textures) can look 'plasticky' or less organic. To counter this, I set the NR on the 24/26MP X-cameras to -2 or even -3. The sharpening goes to -1 or -2. That solves the jpegs and preview images somewhat.
For raw files in Capture One you have far greater control. My recommendation is to set Sharpening to 140-180, Radius to 0.8 (1.0 for 16MP files) and the Threshold to 0 or 0.3 max. Halo Suppression can be around 5-10. For Noise Reduction you can set Lumi NR to 0 for low ISO and up to 50-75 for high ISO images. Set Details and Color to around 50 and use Single Pixel only for long exposures. I don't use LR anymore, so I have no idea of the values there. Since they have a different scale, you can't just copy the numbers between C1 and LR.
That way the 24/26MP files come out with a bit more 'organic look' just like the 16MP had from the start. It's usually better to have some 'grain' rather than over-sharpening your images. The higher megapixel cameras, the more critical this gets...

Even though I own the XT2, XH1 and GFX gear I STILL use and LOVE my XT1.  As a matter of fact, I have an exhibition at the newly built Hale Wing at the Boston University Children's Hospital of images taken with the XT1.  IT's that good.  The prints are 30" x 20".  The XT1, using proper shot discipline, is an amazing camera even with only 16 megapixels.  Actually, as test images several years ago I printed the sister image that's to be exhibited at 40" x 30" and they still looked amazing.
I also believe the XT1 has a more organic quality to the images and hat I believe to be finer grain at higher ISO's. 

I own two copies of the 18-55 and I just checked mine.  Neither one DOES NOT make any clicking noises.  Is it affecting the pictures/videos? 
Sorry about that but it "may" be an issue.
 
 

Great!  Another convert!  The more the merrier.
 

Thanks Jorge, Your post made me take a close look at the back of the lens.👍

Welcome Chris!!!
 

Don't sell the 18-55~. That's my opinion.  I own the 16-55 2.8 and TWO copies of the 18-55.  Though the 16-55 is a tad sharper, clearer, and has truer color reproduction I still use my 18-55 due to it's lightweight.  And, unless you are comparing them side-by-side honestly you can't tell.  If it were me, well it is me:  I'd keep the 18-55 for those times you just want to grab and go without all the extra weight.
 

https://www.pergear.com/products/ttartisan-17mm-f1-4?_pos=1&_sid=fa8d581b3&_ss=r
 
https://www.venuslens.net/product/laowa-17mm-f18-mft/

Not sure of your age bracket but if you've ever shot film you are basically using a "film simulation". When I shot film I'd use Vericolor 120 for portraits, or Kodak Kodacrhome ISO 25 or Fuji Velvia ISO 25 pushed to ISO32 for serious colors especially greens.  As others here have said shoot jpeg + raw.  If you just want to pop JPEGS right out of the oven (don't know why anyone would do that but...) you can create your own profile and make of the image what you want.  You can make it as flat - think  F-log - or the full monty: Velvia.  You do have choices which honestly I did not when I was shooting Nikon  D300, d3, and D800/D800e years ago.
 

Yes. Thinktank Retrospective bags are fantastic bags - a bit heavy, but offer great protection and carrying capacity.  I have the Retrospective 5 and 10 in the pipestone (?) I think and I can load into the 5 the 50r, 30mm and 45mm.  If I want to take the 100-200 then I'll use the Retrospective 10.  But I'm a bag whore.  I must have 12-14 different bags and my wife has made me sell at least 10+ over the past couple of years.  There is NEVER the perfect bag.  Depending on where I'm going, how much walking I plan on doing, and whether I'm flying or driving I select my bag.  This past summer I spent eight weeks on the road shooting.  I packed a Manfrotto camera backpack which I kept in the car with my GFX gear, and my XH-1 and a few lenses for wildlife, then I threw in the van two other bags.  My Retro 10,, and a small Lowepro shoulder bag.  Depending on that days itinerary I would select the gear, then the bag.  My wife says I'm worse than her but this system works for me.  When I fly - I have photographed various resorts in the Carribean, Puerto Rico, and Costa Rica among a few other places, I pack a large backpack with my gear and since I usually stay at the resort/hotel, I can break it down there and distribute it among two/three other bags.  But I do not believe there is the perfect bag.  Also:  Another great place to buy some cool bags (which I have) is your local Salvation Army store!! Yes, weird, but some cool bags there.  Then you order some camera inserts from Amazon and basically you can design your own.  I have a few of those I'll use every now and then.  also check out Army Surplus stores in your neighborhood. Good finds there - as I avoid the super expensive "pretty" bags as I don't like to draw attention.
Hope I didn't bore you too much.  

Try the ThinkTank Retrospective bags. The MkII has some nice improvements and the style suits the traditional GFX50R (imo).

My copy has none of that.  I doubt it affects the image quality but I'd contact the dealer for an exchange. 

Seriously?  Why?
 

Well I don't think Fuji will be re-designing lenses for a higher MP sensor.  At least I don't think so.  I do remember the days when I used my Nikon bevy of lenses on my D300, D700 and D3 which were 12mp cameras and then upgraded to the 36mp D800E beast.  Honestly, other than having to manually fine-tune each lens to the D800 I did not see any degradation in image quality.  But, these were all Nikon lenses; I'm not sure how third party lenses would have fared back then as I didn't own any.  Personaly, if I were to by the XH-2, I would have no qualms whatsoever using ANY of my Fuji lenses with the upgraded 40MP Body.
 

This is interesting. Similar to you, I have close to 300K images cataloged in LR as I have yet to find a better database. I'm diligent about key-wording so I can find any image or shoot I need in a second or two.
I start my workflow in Photo Mechanic for a couple reasons: 1. It's super fast. 2. When key-wording and rating in PM, it writes to both the RAW and JPEG (I shoot raw+jpeg) which the LR import module does not do.
I plan to try a migration of my LR images to ON1 Photo Raw and C1 to see how they do. Based on others' experiences I sort of expect C1 to fail but in talking with ON1 I think Photo Raw should be able to handle it. The question is how it will perform once there are a few hundred thousand images cataloged. I'll post my results here once I do it.
So do you do your culling and rating in C1 along with the editing? And then move them to your "Roundtrip" folder for subsequent import/cataloging into LR?
Thanks for the input.
Happy shooting!
Joel

I use LR for minimal adjustments and mostly for the digital asset management.  I have over 250,000 images in LR right now.  However, I use Capture One Pro for 95% of all my editing needs.  My jpegs (from my GFX50r) are 40mb, and the TIFF's from raw are 310mb in size.  My XT files are much smaller.
I have folders set up in LR (which are actually on my desktop) where I drop files into.  Then I open C1Pro and sync that folder which I have set as a preset in C1Pro.  Once I'm done processing in C1, I export into another folder called "Roundtrip from C1Pro which is also a default in C1pro and in LR.  Back in LR, I then synch that folder and any jpegs and tiffs I generated are dropped in there.  I can then move the finished images to the library for cataloging, keywording etc.  Sounds complicated but I have it setup automatically and it works flawlessly for me.
Hope this helps.

Great underrated lens. Wonderful bargain price with the kit as well.

Hey everyone,  Hope everyone is safe and well.  I'd like to know if anyone here has any experience with the Laowa 17mm F4 for the GFX system.  I'd like to know how it would handle on my 50R.  I've been looking at the Laowa in order to save about a grand over the 23mm Fuji lens.  Any input is appreciated.

I read how to fix it:
delete app from phone.
delete pairing from camera
Shut camera off.  Restart phone.
Download the app again and install
go through the pairing again.
I've done this for my X cameras and my GFX and it seems to be working well enough.  It was pretty bad after the latest Apple updates.
Hope this helps.

One of my VERY best friends is a Leica Guy.  I know people say these Leica guys are stuck up, and hung up on gear but not my good friend.  He's a photographer.  Has taken, dropped, had repaired, shot, got wet, etc EVERY one of his six Leica bodies - including the Monochrome.  The Leica store in NYC LOVE him.  He walked in last year for a Leica branded polarizer, and walked with their only cop of of a think a 90mm lens that had just come out.  It was five figures deep that one~.  He also has several 80 megapixel + higher Hassy medium formats with some serious glass.   Last Christmas he bought for each of his three sons a new Leica body and a 50mm Summicron (?) lens!  Like I said - BIG BUCKS.  He just. bought the 60 megapixel S2 MF Leica as well a few months ago - And guess what? He actually ENVIES my fuji 50r and my APC cameras!  He truly loves them but I think he's afraid of switching at this point.  
Long story short, I do believe that FUJI will be out with a medium format Monochrome by next summer or fall.  If they do, I and my friend will be first in line!
 

Not sure of your age bracket but if you've ever shot film you are basically using a "film simulation". When I shot film I'd use Vericolor 120 for portraits, or Kodak Kodacrhome ISO 25 or Fuji Velvia ISO 25 pushed to ISO32 for serious colors especially greens.  As others here have said shoot jpeg + raw.  If you just want to pop JPEGS right out of the oven (don't know why anyone would do that but...) you can create your own profile and make of the image what you want.  You can make it as flat - think  F-log - or the full monty: Velvia.  You do have choices which honestly I did not when I was shooting Nikon  D300, d3, and D800/D800e years ago.
 

I would add that if you only have one lens like the 50mm which I do have as well as some others - the 50R is great for some cropping of any image. Not as much naturally as the 100S, but that is expected. I will second what jlmphotos says about differences between FF and MF.
 

Hello, and thank you for responding!  It's great to hear feedback on the feedback!  If you are financially able to go the medium format route then only you can make that decision - that is my brain speaking.  My heart says:  Hell yes!  It's an amazing camera.  Before you make that leap have you considered renting one for a few days or a week?  Yes, it will cost you, but in the longterm it might save you money as you may find it's not for you.  I have to agree with Herco whereas if you are not going to print BIG then no worries.  I've printed gorgeous 30 x 20's with much smaller cameras.  Again: it boils down to technique more than anything else.  If you are pursuing going into photography as a career a medium format camera will "future proof" you for some time to come.  There is nothing like a medium format image!  And I have to disagree with your statement that FF is like MF.  It is not.  I've shot all three formats and even looking at images on the camera display, there is a difference.  However, you go with regards to a Fuji in all honesty you can't go wrong!
Good luck in all your future endeavors.

I have never owned a X100 series camera. I do hear they are very compact and portable, and amazing.  I have owned the "rangefinder" styl X-E1 which got my started with Fuji then I stupidly sold it and bought the XT1, XT2, and XH1.  I've always loved the X-E1 so when Fuji came out with the 50R for me it was the BEST of both worlds.  Medium Format (harking back to my Mamiya 645 AFD Film cameras) AND a rangefinder style.  Now, I've owned the 50r since November and I must say I try and use it for everything as much as possible.  I've even used the 50R to shoot a children's soccer match -- which I do not recommend LOL. Anyway, I ramble.  Except for one thing:  I love the small form factor of my X-E1 as it fit in my work briefcase so I now have the 27mm 2.8 pancake mounted on my X-T1 which is comparably tiny and carry that to the office and back.  However, there is no comparison to using the 50r.  If you can afford it, and maybe justify it's use and expense, I'd go for that.  But if you are only shooting for online purposes then it's overkill. I shoot for various agencies, plus stock doing travel and landscape and the camera will pay for itself in a matter of a year or so; plus, as a small business I can depreciate it and save some tax.  Hope that helps somewhat, but I would sit and consider what it is you want to accomplish and how to go about it.  and as you may have read in my profile I have never ever shot street, and never will as I can't stand people. LOL so I can't help. you there.  Good Luck and please let the community know what you've decided.