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Posts posted by jlmphotos

  1. I spent 53 days traveling in the Yukon and Alaska this past summer (2022).  Using my vans power outlet and some splitters, and some accessories I purchased off AmazonI always had my XH1 (3 batteries), G50r (2 batteries), and G100s (2 batteries) , plus three drone batteries, my iPad, a power bank, apple watches,  and two iPhones charging as I drove.  Never had a low or dead battery issue on any device EXCEPT for the ONE time my spouse UNPLUGGED the main cable because she wanted to power up a har straightener (LOL NOW, NOT THEN).  Check out the many options available on various online retailers, as well as Staples, Best Buy etc.

  2. I've been using Fujifilm since February 2012.  I started with an XT1 - which just so happens to be sitting here next to me with the original 27mm 2.8 lens.  I sold ALL my Nikon gear including multiple D800e bodies, 70-200 24-70 and 16-24. The only Nikon I still own is my original D700 with a 50mm 1.8 and the 18-35 zoom lens.   I really fell in love with the Fuji system.  As you will note in my "signature" below I own quite a few Fuji items.  I have NEVER had a camera issue that required repair --- The exception being my Fujifilm S2Pro DSLR body that required a new sensor and Fuji replaced it free of charge and it was already a five year old camera.  

    So I'd go for it if you really want a Fuji.  On this forum you have an amazing support group that will answer your requests for assistance.

    Good Luck with whatever decision you make.

  3. Well as I mentioned above I was about to order a 100s.  I did.  It's FANTASTIC, but it does experience some hot pixels.  Not too many, but that was only after 5-6 months of (everyday) use.  I was away in the Yukon and Alaska for 53 days and with over 9,000 raw files I did notice some dead/hot pixels.  

    Not sure what I'm going to do other than re-map.  

  4. How about using the self-timer set for 10 seconds, or the Fuji App?  Have you tried those two options? But first, set the camera to back-button auto focus.  This separates the function of autofocus, from shutter release.


  5. On 12/6/2022 at 5:33 AM, Greybeard said:

    The usual reason for a storing delay is a non-zero setting of Clarity - but as jlmphotos says more information would be useful

    Oh good point.  As does any "chrome" effect...

  6. I was wondering if anyone is using the new 20-35 F4 lens, and if so what your opinion of it is.  I'm waiting on B&H to send me a stock notice but I would like to have some user feedback.

    And yes, I've read and watched YouTube and other reviews....


  7. The glass is rather durable.  Unless you gouge it with keys or something else in your bag most likely you'll upgrade your camera before the glass is scratched too much.

    As far as cleaning, I clean all my glass with an old, 30 year old cloth diaper that I used on my girls.  I have several of them.  If you don't have any of that, a good quality microfiber cloth, and a drop of eye glass cleaning fluid on a Q-Tip will take care of the viewfinder --- also very good on the rear panel, and lenses bTw

    Hope that helps.  

  8. Hey everyone,

    I feel kind of silly posting this but I  question on something I noticed.  All my raw files in LR show up as 101.8 megapixels, not the 102.  I'm wondering if somehow the images are being cropped down in LR?  I have to run a few tests to confirm this - by opening them directly in Photoshop, or Adobe Camera Raw but I was wondering if any of you guys are experiencing this.  My settings are uncompressed, raw, 4:3 ratio, usually Astia color profile.  My 50r records the raws at 51.1 megapixels instead of 51.4 as well.  It's not a huge deal, but I was wondering if anyone has also experienced this.

    Let me know what you all think.

  9. LOL. It's not like a dust pan.  You won't see the dust collecting anywhere.  I've been shooting Fuji since 2012 and I've yet to have my sensor cleaned in any camera.  The auto sensor cleaner is a nice gimmick but in reality it's avoidance of dust, sand and other particles that will help keep the sensor clean.  I don't change lenses in sandy areas. In dusty areas I keep my camera opening pointed downward at all times and before I attach the lens to the camera I make sure the rear ring where the contacts are located on the lens itself are clean by rubbing my finger around it.  Then I make sure the rear element is not dusty.

    That's about all the precautions I take.  


  10. I don't think the 50r was the "best" choice for fast moving concert images -- I'm assuming rock concerts is what you are shooting.  I own both the 50r and the 100s and I shoot little league baseball and soccer with the 100s when I feel like goofing around, and use my XH1 when I really want to nail it with 11fps burst modes.  

    As far as the "look" not sure what you mean.  Is it the depth of field?  At the distance you may be shooting concerts at, say from the pit, or the sides I do not feel it'll matter.  You may want to go back to an X series for that type of photography and leave the 50r for more static or slower moving subjects.


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