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DelH

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Everything posted by DelH

  1. Hi, I've just been trying to do some indoor video footage with my X-T30. I've only previously shot video on a "proper" video camera (many years ago) so in the learning stages on the X-T30. I set the camera to FHD_16:9, 29.97 fps, 50MBPS. (I tried a few combos such as 25fps and 100MBPS to see how it went. 100MBPS looked like it was going to eat my memory card up too fast.) As my frame rate was 30fps, I tried to stay at 1/60 SS minimum - which I'd want anyway(?) to avoid motion blur for sports. However, at anything above 1/30, I got rolling shutter "banding" from the indoor lights (UK so 50Hz). Shooting at 1/30 seemed to be ok re the rolling shutter effect but it breaks the rule of thumb of SS = min twice frame rate. It seems ok, am I missing anything? It'd be nice to understand the implications of some of the above.
  2. Sounds like the 16-80 would tick a lot of boxes. f4 not stunning but perhaps fast enough. The OIS is supposed to be amazing - I have the 18-135 and the OIS on that is very good - with 16-80 apparently a stop better. Obv only helps if subject is stationary... That said the 18-55 is much smaller. Depends on how much the WR matters - or whether it's weatherproof enough? Is the X-T3 weatherproof? Never done video really so can't comment on that.
  3. Hi, I’m no expert so apologies if this is nonsense 🙂 Are they definitely jpgs? It might be that C1 is showing you the preview of the raw file that reflects the camera settings? Eg, you shot using B&W film sim. You saved in raw but the preview shows that film sim applied. If you go to the colour tab (IIRC) you can change the profile?
  4. Hi, one option I saw was to use different WB type per simulation. So auto for first preset, tungsten for next, fluorescent for next etc etc Maybe it could work if you could find out what is behind those WB types I’m looking for the same answers - as you say it’s crazy to not be able to set adjustments for each preset.
  5. If you’re still pondering, I went through this last year 🙂. I went with the 23mm f2. I’ve owned a 35mm (50mm equivalent) before and really liked it but you often don’t have the space to back up. If you’re not sure which prime, I think most would say that’s a good start. FWIW, my reasoning for a prime was size basically as I have an X-30. (Plus just hey, new lens 😂)
  6. Hi, this is a no right answer question, just musings if anyone fancies joining 😂 I have an X-T30 with following lenses: Samyang 12mm F2 XF23 f2 - my go-to prime 7Artisans 35 f0.95 - fun, arty, nice FL if space allows (cheap!) XF50 f2 - like it but not versatile - the 50 f0.95 can cover this XF18-135 - like it but feels blunderbuss approach Bulky for a walkaround on the X-T30. Very versatile though and just enough reach to grab bits of a scene without a proper telephoto I feel like I’m a bit over-lensed for an amateur. I like the primes on the X-T30 as I feel like they suit the small body. The 18-55 seems like the perfect zoom. So, if I lose one lens, which one? Is the 18-135 the right zoom?
  7. Ha yes it is! Are you using an X-T30 or just similar? Thanks.
  8. Thanks for the reply. The key was to switch on "Large Indicators Mode" on. Then it works as you describe where it hides when shutter button half pressed. Downside is that the indicators are larger - funnily enough 🙂 I wonder whether it's a bug when the histogram flashes up when large indicators not on... Anyway all sorted thanks.
  9. Hi, I have an X-T30 and interested in the way the histogram is displayed. If I'm in looking through the viewfinder, then lower camera and look at the rear LCD, the histogram appears. After a second or two it disappears. The same when I rise camera to my eye - the histogram appears again then hides. The operation seems odd - the histogram is enabled in the screen settings menu. Thanks for any help.
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