lysander

If you purchased a new camera and it is not working correctly RETURN it and get a new one. Why not?

Update firmware instructions are here. I never use the app, but use a card as it is the most reliable way to update the firmware.

The Fujifilm manuals for many cameras, including the X-H2/s, have the following statement in the manual: "In some modes, the camera may set exposure for the frame as a whole rather than the portrait subject." Does anyone know what "modes" they mean? I have done extensive searching and can find no information.

Lensmate Thumbrest: FUJIFILM X100V FOLDING THUMBREST Really RIgh Stuff Arca Swiss base plate and grip: FUJI X100V MODULAR PLATES

"I know some do turn off Iridient sharpening in X-Transformer and I chose to allow the user complete control over disabling much of the functionality in X-Transformer, however I feel strongly for most people that turning off sharpening is tossing out perhaps the very best feature of Iridient X-Transformer. I feel that my Iridient Reveal sharpening algorithm is nearly as critical to the high regarded Iridient image quality as the Iridient demosaics, with Bayer cameras perhaps more so. X-Transformer doesn't allow the fine control or visual preview of sharpening that Iridient Developer does (or Lightroom), but in my opinion you'll get better end results if you at least use a Low level of Iridient sharpening and rely on less Adobe sharpening later. Some also feel that Adobe sharpening is partially, if not largely, responsible for "worm" artifacts in Lightroom/ACR, at least without careful customization of the various adjustment options. If "worm" type artifacts are a concern, with X-Trans models especially, this would be another reason to minimize or entirely avoid use of Adobe sharpening. I realize everyone's preferences can vary widely, sometimes radically, but it definitely makes me cringe every time I see someone advocating for turning off sharpening entirely in X-Transformer as a general recommendation especially if the replacement sharpening is Lightroom's. I feel less strongly about noise reduction, but there too realize completely turning off noise reduction means absolutely no noise reduction at all and with high ISO images the DNG will be extraordinarily noisy and will definitely require more noise reduction adjustment in later post processing. Often people turn off X-Transformer and then complain about how incredibly noisy the DNGs are compared to RAF. With zero RAW NR high ISO RAW images are extremely noisy and if disabling X-Transformer NR certainly plan on adding more noise reduction later for best results. Brian Griffith (author of X-Transformer)"

Received mine, black, and it does not have this problem. The X100F seemed smoother, but my X100V does not make any scratching noise.

Watch this: How Many Megapixels In A Billboardhttps://youtu.be/UCaZt5ndRW0

The most significant drop will be when Fujifilm announces the X-T3. Then all those with G.A.S. will be listing theirs on eBay.

The lens hood is rather large. Any suggestions for a more compact one?

The folks at Edison are great. I just talked with Steve about getting a replacement "spring plate" for the hot shoe which lost its "cover shoe" somehow. This is the metal piece that sits on and surrounds the flash contacts. Cactus actually recommends you remove this with their triggers. Anyway he looked up the part number for me (FBB26290-300 if you need it) and sent me over to Todd in parts to order the part. $4.79 for a little piece, but that's OK. The folks in Edison are super friendly and helpful. BTW does anyone know where to get an exploded parts diagram of the X-T2? They will not sell me one.

Great "TOY CAMERA" shot! Lesson: Know you camera. Check your settings before shooting. Have fun!

Exactly, EC is for the various AUTO modes. In manual mode you have full control over exposure, the camera does what you tell it to do. The controls on the Fujifilm X cameras are made for manual shooters. The whole retro placement of aperture ring, shutter dial and ISO dial makes it super easy to shoot in full manual. They should make it more explicit in the manual for newbie shooters.

EC is not available in FULL manual mode.

I recently switched to this lens hood: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JKUYQS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This allows use of the original Fujifilm lens hood.

This!

Rico, thank you speaking the plain truth. People waste so much time talking about this meaningless BS!

Try this too: SHARPENING X-TRANS FILES IN ADOBE LIGHTROOM http://petebridgwood.com/wp/2014/10/x-trans-sharpening/ The "key difference between Raw files from conventional sensors and Raw files from X-Trans is that they favour different DETAIL slider settings: part of the sharpening control set within the DETAIL panel of the DEVELOP module."

These videos clarify the whole "more light" propaganda of FF fanboys... Angry Photographer: FF vs. APSC #1: Debunking "more light" nonsense & brainless filth https://youtu.be/MW3UOyALsnM Angry Photographer: FF vs. APSC #2: Debunking "more light" nonsense & brainless filth https://youtu.be/AivLURRVIUU Angry Photographer: FF vs. APSC #3: Debunking "more light" nonsense & brainless filth https://youtu.be/7o2sm0v0IEg

Same problem in CH the 2000x Lexar UHS-2 32GB. Returned card and ordered my favorite: Q: Are UHS-2 cards worth the cost for STILL photography at this time? I can see it for 4K video on other cameras. But for folks shooting single shot or even CH, isn't the cheaper UHS-1 U3 good enough? The Lexar was $70 and the UHS-1 was $25. Not seeing a $50 benefit with write errors.

Hey, with the X-Pro 2 coming in January I thought I could get a good deal on the X-Pro1. Just bought a demo unit from Adorama on eBay for $421 US Dollars. They were asking for $519, and described it as "Beautiful! No signs of use. No scratches, scuffs or damage. Virtually new!" I think I am getting a fair deal as this: "If for any reason you are not 100% satisfied within the first 30 days after the receipt of your purchase, you may return the merchandise for exchange or a full money back refund, excluding any shipping charges. All merchandise carries a 60 day mechanical warranty. Our technicians will make all the necessary repairs or provide a replacement. We may also provide a refund of the purchase price at our discretion. Feel free to contact us with any further warranty questions."

This is totally wrong. "F stop" is a formulaic representation of the diameter of the lens relative to the length in millimeters: F-stop is the focal length divided by the diameter of the lens. For example, a 200mm f/4 lens will be 50mm wide: 200mm/50mm = f/4. The rear element of the lens has no idea what is behind it, a FF sensor, a crop sensor or 35mm film. The lens' physical properties do no change. Tony has confused so many people he should be fined.

Ken Rockwell is the MSNBC of fake news and insane blatherings, but he has the best camera reviews ever, to wit: "The X-T10 is Fujifilm's best interchangable-lens camera because it adds a built-in flash, 1/32,000 electronic shutter and a threaded cable-release socket to the previous top-of-the-line X-T1. The X-T1 is tougher, costs more and is still positioned by Fuji as the "top," but as you'll see, this new X-T10 is better." http://kenrockwell.com/fuji/x-t10.htm "The Fuji XT-1 is what a Japanese camera should be: tiny, tight, precise, fast, quiet, easy-to-use and extremely well made out of all metal. It's not another offshored-to-China excuse made out of plastic." http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/x-t1.htm "The Fujifilm X-E2 (called the "Sexy Two" in Japan) is an extraordinary camera as I've outlined above. It's faster and easier to use for people who know how to shoot because it has all the right controls in the right places, and it's always super-sharp and handles any crazy light you can throw at it. The X-E2's color rendition is great for people photos, but a poor choice for color photos of places and things. The X-E2 excels for black-and-white shooting because of its extraordinary sharpness and freedom from distortion, and I love shooting in its optional square format just like my Mamiya 6 or Hasselblad." http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/x-e2.htm " The Fuji X100T is the world's best digital camera because no other camera has its ability to capture great photos perfectly in any light, all usually on the very first shot. It's also the world's quietest camera, with a completely silent electronic shutter." http://www.kenrockwell.com/fuji/x100t.htm

Thom Hogan said on sansmirror.com: But consumers are easily fooled by technology, too. Take image stabilization. This is a “good enough” solution not a “best practice” solution. I’ve written for over a decade the following: turn off IS and stabilize your camera (e.g. well chosen and set up tripod) and you’ll almost always get better pixel level results. IS/VR systems are moving something (lens elements, sensor) during the exposure. And they’re not moving those elements perfectly in sync with the motion. Not even close. While you might not be able to easily measure it, you’re losing edge acuity with IS systems turned on. Of course, if the alternative is to get totally smeary results because you can’t hold the camera steady, then IS is certainly useful. http://www.sansmirror.com/newsviews/why-do-people-really-buy.html

Best Buy just had a FANTASTIC sale on the XF 50-140mm. Got one for $599.00....yes $599 brand new. The post on Best Buy said "Sale - Save $1,000", so I did! Some guy on DP Review alerted folks to this sale and I was able to get one too. You have to keep trying because they sell so fast they go out of stock quickly. The inventory system seems to replenish stock pretty quickly though

A better approach would be to demonstrate how to use the expensive vacuum by cleaning your entire house. By the time you are finished she will have greater respect for your opinions.