SimonW
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Posts posted by SimonW
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OK, thanks Greybeard. I'll try to see if I can talk to Fuji themselves.
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Hi Greybeard, yes, it seems a great camera. But perhaps you could go menu function button setting and try to change the ael/afl button from on (hold) to switch (toggle) and see if you can. The manual says how. If you can I must have a faulty camera. I've tried immediately after a complete reset back to factory condition.
Cheers, Simon
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Q1: Is it possible to set this button to toggle on/off rather than having to hold it down?
Q2: Is it possible to have AFL and AEL on separate buttons?
In both cases, if yes then how?
I meant to say re Q1. The manual page 298 states that the button can be set to toggle, but I've found that on my camera it cannot. The button is on the list but selecting it gives no options at all.
(My firmware has updated to V1.01 already. I normally use back-button focus and muscle memory makes it difficult to change back to half-press shutter focus).
Simon
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I've used 18-135 lenses for many years, from 35mm film days and love them for general purpose use, so of course I've had the Fuji version (along with other less versatile lenses) since I bought into Fuji. The only thing I'm not fully happy with is the lack of an aperture ring. On my XT5 I can check all exposure settings bar aperture without switching it on. I'm very pleased with the quality and results from the 18-135 but the thought that the 16-80 would solve that problem sometimes nags me. On the other hand I think I'd find I need to change lenses to my 70-300 much more frequently, and perhaps to carry that "just in case" where I previously wouldn't.
Just wondering if anyone else has similar thoughts.....
Simon
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Having completed the 24th May firmware update on both my cameras I was looking forward to using their long-awaited new App which I believed would work much better that the old one with my smartphone. And now I'm very sad and extremely disappointed - I cannot even download it from the Google Play Store. It says my phone isn't compatible with it! It's a fairly recent one, with android v10 and yes - the description for the App does say this version is not supported. I've found I cannot update the phone and I'm not about to spend out on a new one so I'll just carry on as before. But I though others on this forum might find my post useful.
Simon
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Hi Jerry,
I have four XF lenses, two with constant aperture, two with aperture which changes with zoom. I've used them all in earnest with good results indoors and outside, and testing has been inside looking out of a window. Of course understand about the "A" switch. I knew and understood about using the command dial to get in-between shutter speeds but in honesty never felt the need for it.
Occasionally during testing I've been able to deliberately set some wildly "wrong" values which appeared in preview to over-expose yet resulted in a very under-exposed shot in playback. But it's never happened in normal use, and was probably due to me switching to review mode or changing a setting before a 30 second exposure had completed, or something like that. It didn't worry me.
As I said, I can live with this minor annoyance because so much else about this system is great. Life's too short to continue wasting time and worrying about it. Thanks for trying anyway.
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Now there's a thing. The test you suggested is exactly what I described above when I found changing the aperture above the top (f/number) let me control the shutter (* see below) but did not show the aperture setting change to match. I thought it kept showing f3.5 in red (the limit on my Fuji 18-135 lens) but had not tried zooming, and yes, the indicated figure does change to show the wide open figure for each zoom range as you say. BUT it does not display the actual aperture in use. It's obvious that it must be changing to match the shutter speed setting, as the the viewfinder brightness and histogram remain virtually the same.
So your last paragraph MIGHT * be incorrect - it's indicating the aperture is wide open when in fact it isn't.
* But I've just now noticed I can only control the shutter over a very limited range. In this test it went only between 1/80 and 1/200 sec. Ie. just over one stop, and it might be the resultant viewfinder brightness change isn't noticeable.
I don't like being beaten by tech, but this is becoming more trouble than it's worth. I'm very pleased with all my Fuji kit and can learn to live with this minor inconvenience.
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Hi Jerry,
I'm sorry my post was already too long-winded, but to me it seems a very complicated issue, and in fact there's a last Gotcha I've not mentioned yet.
But to answer your question: By exposure I mean the particular settings of ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed actually set on the camera either fully manually or by one or more of the three being set to auto.
My second paragraph describes the full manual situation, when neither AEL or exposure compensation would do anything, and all is exactly as it should be. Perhaps my exclamation mark confused you. I used it only to highlight that my original problem was the AF-L button not working, which has led to much more fiddling with settings.
My third paragraph shows that the AEL button works as it should in an auto-exposure mode. That is, the camera chooses the shutter speed.
What I'd like to do is set a fixed shutter speed (and ISO) and set Aperture to Auto, and it seems I cannot easily do this.
In fact it can be done, though it's not easy to see:
With those settings the front dial can turn the aperture down to it's smallest (ie largest number) then one further click changes the viewfinder indicator indicator to red with the largest aperture (f/3.5 with this lens). At this point the rear dial starts to work and controls the shutter speed, and the AF-On and AEL buttons toggle as they should.The Gotcha is that in this mode there is no indication of the aperture the camera has chosen, which means that in some circumstances the depth of field might be unacceptable. And if I could see the setting I'd change the ISO to something more suitable.
I still think/hope there must be a much simpler way.
(Since I started in the late 1960s until recently I never used anything but manual. Probably just go back to what I know.....)
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Hi Barry,
That's a good combination. I too love my pancake XF27 2.8 ll. I've used it a great deal on my X-S10, and that is just perfect as a discrete "pocket and party" camera (especially with its occasionally useful built in flash). That is the reason I couldn't bear to part with it after I bought the X-T5.
Simon
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Hi Robnsue,
(I’m friends with a couple, Rob & Sue, but they’re Olympus users).
Anyway, I tend to agree with you that it’s more likely a configuration error, but now after more playing with settings I’m more confused than ever.When I found that problem I was using the top plate control knobs, but I thought it might be less confusing to set up my X-T5 to match my X-S10 as close as possible. That is, shutter speed on the rear command dial (with the shutter control knob set to T) and aperture on the front command dial (with the aperture ring on the lens set to A. With the ISO dial set to a fixed value (400) it all works OK. That’s Full Manual. The three exposure settings are shown in the viewfinder, and the AF On button toggles AF-Lock on and off as it should. (Yes, that is AF-Lock). But now it’s the AEL button which doesn’t work at all!
If I change only one thing – The shutter control knob from T to A, then both AF-On and AEL buttons do exactly what I want, but of course that’s now in Aperture Priority mode and I can no longer control the shutter speed except by using the exposure compensation dial.
I do want to be able to use full manual (either with the knobs or the dials, whichever works) to set focus and exposure, lock them and recompose (sometimes for several shots over a period of time). Surely that must be simple to achieve, but I’m still stumped.
Last resort: If it can't be done I guess the command dials plus the exposure compensation will in effect let me lock exposure and focus, which doesn't seem possible with the knobs.
Simon
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Greybeard, thank you for trying but I do have the manual and of course that was the first thing I looked at.
Robnsue, thank you also for your input. It seems you've almost understood my problem and I've now re-checked your suggestions. The Pre-AF is not turned on, and re-assigning AF Lock to the F1 button gets the same behaviour. To confirm, it behaves exactly as it should if set for back-button focusing with the shutter-AF switched off. But although it is clearly set to Toggle On/Off (as in Greybeard's shot of the manual, it does not remain locked while not pressed. (The viewfinder indicator showing it locked just goes out as soon as the button is released).
As I said, I'm almost certain it used to work exactly as it should because I would have set it to match my X-S2. I backed up the settings shortly after I bought it, as well as a couple more times since. So I tried to restore from the first backup but unfortunately found I could not. I believe that is a consequence of a later firmware update. Restoring from a later one worked OK but made no difference to this issue. That's why I wonder if it's due to an error in the new firmware....
Simon
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On my X-S10 the AF On button is set so that I press it once to lock focus to that distance, and it remains fixed (as indicated by a viewfinder icon) until I press it a second time. This is very useful rather than focus & recompose every shot.
The manual for my X-T5 says it can be set the same way. I'm now very familiar with the settings, and it should be simple, but I cannot set it like that. The button will hold the focus fixed only as long as it's held down, no matter what settings. I fiddle with.
I'm almost certain I set like that soon after purchase (to match the other camera) but I'm not sure when I last made use of it. My firmware is fully up to date (v1.03 February 2023). Is it possible this problem is caused by an error in the firmware update?
(Just in case it's a lens issue I tried with different lenses with no result - and the obvious suspect: Auto+Manual focus is switched off, nor am I using Back-Button focus at present).
Any suggestions welcome?
Simon
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Yes, it works fine. But from memory l needed to assign it to the control knob. The option choice allows for it to select film simulation in manual and exp comp in auto.
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Sandy, using exposure compensation in full manual mode would make no sense - just adjust speed, aperture or iso as required. But if you have iso scrolled down to an auto setting then exp comp should be available.
Simon
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I asked Fuji UK. They confirmed it cannot be done if using back button focus. They said they have raised it with Fuji head office. Maybe next firmware update.....
Simon CT
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I use back button focus the same as Sany. It's interesting that the actual ISO might be visible in half-shutter press mode as Greybeard suggested. I really don't want to change from back button focus but might get round to testing Greybeard's idea sometime.....
(Glad I mentioned that irritation now).
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Wow, as you say, easy when you know how. It works a treat so thank you Catsaregods for replying.
Simon
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I use cable release often. I changed the setting for the microphone jack to remote shutter and bought a very cheap on Amazon cable release which had the matching connector. It seems the socket in other Fuji cameras is a different size so the Fuji remote won't fit X-S10, but mine works perfectly.
Simon.
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Mine worked fine, no bother at all.
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I've been using mainly manual exposure, very occasionally shutter or aperture priority, since I bought this camera, but now want to use Auto ISO and can't seem to set it up.
My old Pentax had TV, AV andTAV modes along with manual. that's shutter (time) priority or aperture priority with the ISO value fixed, and what they called shutter and aperture both adjustable and auto ISO. I have managed to set the Fuji to do this. (Though it's a little annoying that the ISO chosen isn't shown on the screen - instead it always shows the chosen maximum possible).
However, what I cannot find how to do is set an exposure adjustment along with this, for example -1/3 stop (or one step of ISO) to avoid blown highlights.
Maybe someone here knows the secret or can confirm it cannot be done?
Simon
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Oops, sorry folks, I can see the specs say it does. Must have been a memory error - mine, not the cameras!
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I noticed this sound on my X-S10 right away and assumed it was IBIS. I was confused later when I switched IBIS off and still heard it, but didn't let it worry me. So thank you for the explanation.
Robnl's post is a bit odd though, because the X-T4 does not have IBIS. So perhaps that isn't the full story....
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I should have explained. If I remember correctly, you enter the new file name you want (I found this fiddly) at the select folder stage. It isn't created till you take the next photo, which will store in it. After that you can select either folder.
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You can do this but I don't recommend it. You would need to remember to manually make a new folder each day, month or whatever, and the file number restarts from 1 in each folder. That screws up my way of filing the files on the Pc and without extreme care the new files will over-write older ones.
I found that out the hard way.
CANNOT BACKUP OR RESTORE X-T4 SETTINGS WITH FUJI X ACQUIRE
in General Discussion
Posted
In Windows PCs the backup is saved in folder Documents>Fujifilm>Conditions. If you open this folder in a window before you start the backup you'll see the backup file appear in the window. It's almost instantaneous. It's a confidence booster. I don't remember X-Aquire giving any indication that backup has completed. The backup files include the date and the camera make so if you have two Fuji cameras they all go in the same folder. New backups do not over-write the older ones so you can restore an older one if you should so wish.
Simon