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mrPeter

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  1. Like
    mrPeter reacted to Pierre Marty in Issue with the menus   
    I have a problem with the menus of my camera: some items cannot be selected (they appear in gray and not in white), e.g. in the IQ menu film simulation, white balance, etc. Also, in Image Quality, raw (only) is not offered, but only fine, normal, fine+raw and normal+raw.
    I just updated the firmware and it doesn't change anything.
    Thanks very much for your help !
    EDIT: I found the solution: the left wheel was on the ADV mode. It had to be set to S!
  2. Like
    mrPeter reacted to elgatoloco in Exposure indicator   
    Firmware of the body wasn't the latest, but updating it didn't help. The lens firmware was already up to date.
    It's weird - basically, the lens behaves like it's been set to auto, so I'm not able to expose manually. 
    SOLVED: Just figured it out, I'm stupid. Since the lens in question doesn't have an aperture ring, the F value changes either through the dial that's set up to control the aperture or when you zoom in and out. So, I've accidentally set it to auto without realizing. The few other lenses I've tested with all had aperture rings, so it wasn't obvious to me immediately what's going on.
  3. Thanks
    mrPeter reacted to Shootinglight in Back Button focus (AF ON) in Movie Mode   
    Figured it out. 

    If any sort of FACE/EYE detection is on, all other focus options go out the the window.
  4. Haha
    mrPeter reacted to mary anne in New Camera Stuck in Smartphone Pairing   
    Sigh . . . So I wrongly assumed that when the manual stated “press Display Back” to skip, it meant to press it once and the option would go away.  You have to press it a second time, after pressing it the first time opens the second screen of the pairing option.  Back on track!
  5. Like
    mrPeter reacted to Choccy in X-T4 dead after 1.23 firmware update   
    Don't do firmware via the app
     
    Always download onto a blank memory card only and install that way.
     
     
  6. Like
    mrPeter got a reaction from Trenton Talbot in Anyone else disappointed w/ build quality?   
    Looks like you never handled a X-T4, mine has metal dials, the flip-out screen feels as solid as on any other camera that has one and overall build quality is as good or better than any other camera that is/was in my posession.
    Did you register an account here just to come spread fake information?
  7. Like
    mrPeter reacted to methodphoto in Custom Simulation names in Q menu   
  8. Like
    mrPeter reacted to Herco in XT2, strange problem, black frames.   
    This is most likely 'the card write' issue that is quite common to Fujifilm cameras. For some strange reason Fuji is quite susceptible to card write issues. Try different configurations (back-up - sequential - raw/jpeg) for the card slot settings in case your camera has two slots. Also only use Fuji recommended SD cards and always format them in camera before use and never pull out the cards (and back in) with the camera powered on.
    However, above recommendations are no guarantee. On top of several other issues, this for me was the reason to no longer use Fuji cameras for my professional work. In 36 years I haven't lost a roll of film or a single image on card, but in my 6 years with the Fuji X-system it happened to me about a dozen times. Esp. the X-H1 (otherwise their best X so far) was notorious, according the specialist at my camera (repair) store.
    If you have a Fujifilm camera that behaves like this and still have warranty on it, have it checked and possibly repaired. I've heard of cases that were solved after a service. Not in my experience, but perhaps you're luckier...
  9. Thanks
    mrPeter got a reaction from Peter Hicks in Capture 1 fuji express + Affinity Photo, or Capture 1 fuji?   
    Hi Peter, welcome to the forum. Why not first try the latest update of Affinity as it does not cost you any money? If it does not work as you would want it to you can switch to CaptureOne pro.
    If you do panoramas and/or focus stacking You should keep Affinity as CaptureOne does not do these tricks.
    I use CaptureOne pro and Affinity Photo for the same reason.
    Henk
  10. Thanks
    mrPeter reacted to Herco in 16-55mm f2.8 advice   
    Hi, I've owned all of these lenses (and quite a few more Fujinons) so here's my personal take on this.
    The 35/2 is a fantastic lens when it comes to image quality. The 16-55 will not reach that level. It's closer to the 23/2 and the 18-55. In fact, the German magazine Fototest has tested the 16-55 and the 18-55 and both are very close to each other in terms of sharpness. The 16-55 is a bit less sharp on the wide-angle side and the 18-55 is a bit softer on the tele end.
    The main advantage of the 16-55 over the 18-55 is better contrast due to better coatings. The images look a bit 'punchy-er'. You could get a similar result with the 18-55 in post by cranking up contrast, but the 16-55 has a better 'starting position' here. The 23/2 is a nice lens. The main advantage is size/weight, speed of AF and versatility of the 35mm equiv. IQ is good but nothing exceptional like the 35/2. With the 23/2 it's best to avoid f2 when you want good IQ, so effectively it becomes a f2.8 or f4 lens, just like the 18-55. So, it's easier to leave your 18-55 on camera and zoom to 23mm, instead of mounting the 23/2.
    The 16-55 is quite a bit larger and heavier than the 18-55. For travel and carry-around I would prefer the 18-55 as it is also image stabilized (the 16-55 is not). That allows you to shoot in available light situations like indoors. Esp. since the X-T3 doesn't have IBIS. The 16-55 is meant for more professional shooting conditions, with controlled light, shallower DOF, WR and front lens coating that repels water. I've used it for several assignments during when I was using Fuji for professional work. It's a work-horse lens, just like all 24-70/2.8 lenses from major manufacturers. The downside is that it is almost equally large and heavy, despite it's only for APS-C format. 
    When you look for a great travel kit, you might consider to sell your 23/2 and buy a 14/2.8 next to the 18-55. Those two lenses are made for each other. Same filter size, lens hood, very portable and great IQ for relative low costs. You can always keep the 35/2 whenever you need more than f3.8 (which is approx. the aperture when you zoom the 18-55 to about 35mm). That way, you probably use the 18-55 more than 90% of the time. The rest would be the 14/2.8 or the 35/2. This however, depends on whether you need something wider than the 18-55.
  11. Thanks
    mrPeter reacted to Herco in 16-55mm f2.8 advice   
    That is correct. The 18-55 is approx. as sharp as the 23/2. Fototest tested them both around 1600 linepairs in the centre and 1450 linepairs in corners. The 16-55 is a bit sharper in the centre (1750), but a bit less sharp in the corners (1370-1400 linepairs). The 35/2 is around 2000 linepairs centre and 1600 in corners. All at the equiv. focal lengths and 1 stop stopped down.
    Fototest also scores the lenses based on various categories (IQ, both measured and visual, build quality and features). The 18-55 had a score of 91.1 (out of max. 100). The 16-55 scored 90.3. The 23/2 scored just below 90 and the 35/2 scored 98.9.
  12. Like
    mrPeter reacted to Herco in 16-55mm f2.8 advice   
    Yes, the 35/1.4 is often considered the 'best' Fujinon lens, but it is in fact due to some optical flaws that create an appealing character. It has much more vignetting and chromatic aberration than the 35/2 and it is less sharp in all areas. Furthermore it creates a warmer, less clinical image than the 35/2. Technically the 35/2 is much better (the 35/1.4 scored 91.9 in Fototest), but the 35/1.4 has a nice 'organic' look to its images.
    Finally, the 35/1.4 has poor AF speed and is noisy (both AF motors and aperture chatter). That makes it useless for video with on-camera sound. That of course only matters when you shoot video. However, when doing street photography or in theaters or museums, the 35/1.4 can also be irritably noisy for others.
  13. Like
    mrPeter reacted to DaveC in New to Fuji   
    Welcome rickc, I too was new to Fuji when I got my X-S10 and 16-80mm last December. It is a great camera and lens combo.
    Point 1. To wake up the camera just half press the shutter button but keep it pressed for a second or too and it will wake up. When half pressed you will feel the IBIS doing its thing , thats OK, just keep it pressed till it wakes up.
    Point 2. Set the X-S10 to M mode on the mode dial and you will have aperure on the front dial and shutter speed on the rear dial. Then set the iso to Auto, Press the iso button on the top plate and use the joy stick to scroll down to the auto iso settings. The user manual does explain the auto iso settings quite well (the pdf that is). Note you can also re-assign the top left dial to exposure compensation if you like that as well. I have been using these settings just lately to photograph butterflies at high shutter speeds.
    I came from using Canon and Nikon cameras and find the image quality is outstanding and hope you continue to enjoy the camera.
    Best wishes DaveC. 
  14. Like
    mrPeter got a reaction from CatsAreGods in Frame in frame. Help!   
    Look for"sportsfinder"
  15. Thanks
    mrPeter got a reaction from Olaf W. in Using the built in flash in XT-4   
    Are you joking? X-T4 does not have a built-in flash.
  16. Thanks
    mrPeter got a reaction from dward in Fuji X-T3 SS (Shutter Shift) Keeps Overriding Manual Shutter Speed Settings   
    I had a similar experience with my X-T4, switching off D-range priority fixed it for me.
    Hope this helps for you too.
    Henk
  17. Like
    mrPeter got a reaction from YOUTA in Change several settings at once   
    No. (Not yet) I hope Fuji will come with a firmware upgrade to bring the X-T4 more in line with the newer X-E4 of which you can store image size and quality, several autofocus settings and more.
  18. Like
    mrPeter got a reaction from irvy in Change several settings at once   
    No. (Not yet) I hope Fuji will come with a firmware upgrade to bring the X-T4 more in line with the newer X-E4 of which you can store image size and quality, several autofocus settings and more.
  19. Like
    mrPeter reacted to andrei89 in Design disaster: battery cover blocked by quick release plate   
    Same happens on my x-e3, canon M and m5. It’s an inconvenience but far far away from what you call a design disaster
    it’s a limitation of small bodies. Some mechanical calculations were made and that ended up being the best support point
  20. Like
    mrPeter reacted to murigius in IBIS on Fuji XT-4 - How do you turn it off?   
    I agree, I'm pretty new at the X-T4 as well and I found Kasumi3344's reply a bit insulting. (Later) I read through the book Kasumi3344 offered and found the author's attitude insulting. Come on guys, why not drop the sharp, impatient, know-it-all attitude and just offer helpful information?
  21. Like
    mrPeter got a reaction from Bedouin in Defective autofocus of my Fujinon 56mm 1.2   
    I would stop testing and just send it in. You obviously found something is wrong with your lens, let Fuji check it. Provide them with your test images and description of how you tested.
    Henk
  22. Like
    mrPeter reacted to Robr in Who's opinion do you most trust on Youtube about Fuji?   
    I think it’s a tough ask. I take each with a grain or sometimes a block of salt.
    I’ve produced videos and know it’s a ton of work and when it comes to someone doing it for their income... it changes everything.
     Plus in todays internet, I think business knows how to protect their products with hidden sponsorships, articles and with comments, down votes and customer reviews from employees acting/pretending to be normal users. 
    My thoughts in no order:
     
    Gordon Laing - for a long time I’ve felt he was honest in evaluations and I like his consistency in testing. Dislike his newer dummied down rating system.
     
    Theoria Apothasis - has vast experience and equipment, not sponsored publicly or hidden.  But I’ve stopped watching because I’ve also grown extremely tiered of his consistently praising himself, then repeating it again and again and again in every video. The tidbits of “on topic” info. happen between long episodes of self praise. It’s exhausting and just not worth sitting through because it happens in every video. 
     
    Kai W - entertainment. For me, he’s funny and original.
     
    Maarten Heilbron and a few “others” I’ve gotten useful info from. Maarten’s a bit old school but I find him more educated then the others.
     
    Pal2tech - Comes to mind but I think there are a great deal of regurgitated reviewers like him that offer repacked info they pull from others work and give bad and clueless advice to people who need real help.  I realized what he was doing after viewing others content and then his, plus his thoughtless bad advice on multiple topics told me he was actually a danger to people. Those poor folks didn’t know that what he was advising them to do was actually bad advice and showed his  inexperience. I have no interest for players.
     
  23. Like
    mrPeter reacted to roman in landscapes with fuji x   
    Evening light, Allgäu, Bavaria
     

     
    Flickr
  24. Thanks
    mrPeter reacted to CatsAreGods in Dual Iso   
    This has been a very interesting thread. I never heard of Dual ISO and almost thought it was an in-joke (like "blinker fluid" for cars). To return the favor, I found this awesome video that explains the details, but you will need at least 2 or 3 cups of coffee to keep up:
     
  25. Thanks
    mrPeter reacted to David Fleetwood in Dual Iso   
    Just to update this, I believe this was just measured and published here:  https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#FujiFilm X-S10
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