YOUTA

If you are looking software to edit film simulations for .raf files, use this:
RAW FILE CONVERTER EX powered by SILKYPIX. It's free and can be downloaded from here: https://fujifilm-x.com/global/products/software/raw-file-converter-ex-powered-by-silkypix/

I stumbled upon a youtube video from "make art now" ,he was showing the new "DJI LiDAR 3D focus system". , Which can be used to give vintage lens "autofocus" ability . So we can get the oldest and unique Lenses and use it for daily work or fun ,same way we use a lens with auto focus ! .it seems interesting to me and i thought it will be useful for everyone here , who likes some specific vintage lens but wasn't buying it because it doesn't have auto focus ! .
 
 

That lens does not have an aperture ring, the f-stop has to be changed using a different method.
What you were seeing is because the lens is a variable aperture type that had its f-stop set using, probably, the auto setting from the body, As the zoom changed, the exposure changed and the camera reacted by changing the f-stop.
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/menu_shooting/aperture_setting/index.html
This may help, I do not have a manual for the X-A3 handy, so I am not certain how to tell you to navigate all of the menus to find all of the setting that apply to aperture and exposure and dig out which one got changed to cause what you are seeing. Advising a full reset may fix the current issue, but not give you an idea about how to stop it from happening again.
 

this may help:
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t10/lens/no_a-ring/index.html
That is from the X-T10 manual, but as I understand it, that applies for the other bodies as well.
If you are using a lens with an aperture ring, then something else is happening.

Something else is going on ... The F number is telling you what the aperture setting is, not what the focus is. If you are using a lens without an aperture ring, you have to set the aperture ( F number ) by way of changing a menu setting, not by twisting the focus ring. Also, if you have the camera set to auto focus, twisting the focus ring will not do much.
Which lens are you using?

wow , i wish i get successful like you too , i really want to take photography as a profession . my family business is stressful , but i just do photography as a hobby till now ,just because i love doing it , i wish it brings me revenue ,so i could do it always !. have a nice day !

I would really appreciate a firmware update adding golden ration, spiral and diagonals to the grid selection It would just take a few extra lines of code and obviously the user would not "have to" use the extra patterns.

Lightroom Classic does provide for this now.  I, however switched to Capture One Pro (paid version), kicking and screaming over a year ago and I love it!  I fought myself over switching for the editing process for ever.  I still use Lightroom to catalog and for collections and only use C1Pro for my editing of the raw files.  The reason I switched over is because I saw the amazing difference between LR and C1Pro when processing the Fuji raw files.  After almost two years of editing in C1Pro I have it down to a science.  Each camera body has it's own sharpening algorithm setup so upon import in C1 the sharpening for that specific body is applied.  All I have to do then is tweak the files however I want.  As I said I fought against moving over for quite some time.  But then I downloaded the FREE Fuji version of C1 tried it and fell in love.  I then went out and bought the FULL Pro version because I decided to process my old(er) Nikon files, and my Mavic Pro DNG files through C1Pro and IMHO you can see the difference.
 

I've been trying Capture One Express recently and I quite like it but it's definitely a learning curve coming from Lightroom! It may be because it's the free version so doesn't need so much memory, but it runs faster on my MacBook compared to Lightroom/Photoshop.
Once my Adobe subscription ends I'm going to try the free trial of Capture One Pro to see what I think and go from there.
Thanks everyone for your helpful advice and tips

To expand on that a bit, this type of support is different than trying to convince Fujifilm to add a feature to a button or dial — something that only affects Fujifilm made cameras.This affects the entire still and motion film industry. Broadly speaking, there are three parts: Software, Hardware, and — this is the trickiest one — Licensing. If any of the three parts is too onerous, the idea will not move forward. Look at the individual frames of a movie, whether it be on a dvd, a blu-ray or streaming. A lot of those are jpeg or similar. Those frames have to be displayable on the receiving hardware, so that means the software has to be capable of doing its part, the hardware can help as it is running a specialized algorithm to decode the data, and the licensing that allows those two parts to operate has to come with terms that the manufacturer can afford. That is just on the playback end. The encoding end has the same problems. 
Right now, there are very few equipment manufacturers that build machines that can stream movies or play dvds or blu-rays that have the frames encoded in the new format. The slightly older ones simply cannot. So the world will have to buy all new equipment to take part.
Hence, watch what the professional video world does.

according to my experience , i might not have year's of experience . but according to my usage experience , capture one is still better than lightroom for fujifilm x-trans sensor camera files . if you need to use lightroom ,you can alternatively convert the raf file to tiff or dng using "silkypix raw x converter" or capture one itself , i assume that the free version of capture one express for fujifilm can do that . so if you only want to use a software which give the best possible results without so many tasks for fujifilm x-trans raf files capture one is the simple choice ,also topaz softwares and luminar works very nice with fujifilm x-trans sensor camera files . also "darktable" which is a lightweight and open source software ,also work very well with fujifilm raf files . i hope this helps . have a nice day !

I use Lightroom (Subscription) all the time without any issue.  I find RAF or Xtrans Sensor files are initially sharper then Bayer sensor files from other cameras causing the issues generally identified as "worms".  Lightroom adds sharpening (40) to all imported files, so higher ISO RAF files may tend to show very high noise.  I created a preset to import with, that reduces sharpening to "0" and adds Luminance (50) (same as Capture One does).  With this preset working with RAF files in Lightroom works every bit as well as Capture One with equal quality results.
With these changes, it then comes down to personal preference.  Both are outstanding software and do an excellent job.  For me I prefer the sliders of Lightroom over the Levels and Tone Curves of Capture One, so I stay with Lightroom.  I own both (subscription) and like to play with each at different times, but as for final results I find both the be pretty close to equal, although at HUGH magnification a pixel peeper may disagree - depending on which software he prefers.
As far as import issues with Capture One I can only think you have an older version.  Capture One works closely with Fuji and should accept any Fuji RAF file you have unless it has not been updated properly.  This is the difference between purchase and subscription.  A lot of people don't like subscription, but then cuss when they can't open files from a newer camera without re-purchasing a newer version.  The newest version of Capture One should handle your RAF files.  Pro 12 should handle most except from any of the newest cameras (XS-10, XT-4, ? are questionable) - you'd need to check on their website for compatibility. 

Because I shoot for Adobe Stock amongst many others, and sell over X number of images per year, I do not pay for Adobe LR or PS.  I haven't paid the the Adobe Photographers Package in four years.  I really don't want to pay monthly fees - to Adobe or worse yet, Capture One.  

Watch the pro video world to see if this format will catch on or not. They pretty much push the standards that make it.
We have been here before, many times. Check into jpeg2000, some of the old SGI stuff, etc. All of these are “better” than jpeg, and are still around, but failed to knock off jpeg. The upcoming JPEG-XL format looks to make sure it keeps camera manufacturers in the jpg camp. We shall see.

I realized I didn't need all that resolution and that there was something about the colors that I didn't like. They were saturated and all but not to my liking. I am also a jpg guy. The sony was a very low noise high iso camera but the images wouldn't pop. 
So I thought that Fuji would be what I am looking for beautiful colors and good jpg's.
I also contemplated pentax but I prefer the mirrorless camera.
For many this could be considered a downgrade, and not being able to use my vintage lenses properly is also a drawback but the sony just didn't cut it for me.
let me also tell you that I am a film guy too.

HEIF support should be Fuji's #1 priority.
 
JPEG is seriously obsolete compared to the new format and it's a real shame that we don't have options to shoot with Fuji in HEIF right now.

Greeting from Australia
I am a long time photographer, new to Fuji with recent purchase of an X-T3.
I actually started in underwater photography with a Nikonos V, a Nikon F80 film cameras in the 90's, before transitioning to the Nikon D100 and D200 based systems. I then transitioned to MFT mirrorless in 2013, using Panasonic Lumix GX7, GX9 and G9 bodies. These days my photography is broader adventure, landscape and travel based.
My philosophy is to change cameras only when I have hit the limits of a system, and I have found a limit in terms of low light (particularly astro) photography. I know many would say I should have gone all the way to full frame, but in my reading, tests and discussions, the Fuji system seem to balance great image quality and carry ability. And they seem fun to use, which is important.
So here I am. Look forward to future conversations. 
Cheers
Des

Take a look at the dicapac cases...you can also keep using the case when you switch cameras
have one since my canon dslr days and i can recomend it over other soft cases since it has a solid glass front cover

You can also do this using exif editors without having to worry about that extra byte in the body name. But hex editors are more fun!
(In general, is you do this make. sure the sensor and bsi type etc. etc. are the same so that the image editor can bring out the most in the file. You might want to change the information after you have imported it.)

I recently got into astrophotography and really enjoy seeing things for the first time with my eye's/camera.
The Andromeda Galaxy.  A mere 2.5 million light years from earth. 
This was taken from my backyard this past week using my X-Pro3 and Astro-Tech AT65EDQ Quadruplet telescope on a Sky-Watcher EQM-35 Equatorial mount.   This is 33 galaxy images, 20 dark frames, 15 flat frames and 15 bias frames all stacked using Deep Sky Stacker.  Settings were: 30 sec. exp. @ iso 1600 for all 33 images.
 

I've just been playing around with raw files of the Fuji X-S10, using Hex Fiend on macOS. If you replace the instances of X-S10 with X-T30, then Capture One will open those files.
You could also replace X-S10 with X-T3 but then you have fiddle a bit because that's one character less and the following bytes will move one position forward.
Warning #1: only do this if you know what you're doing. Make a backup of your raw files first before you start editing them!!
Warning #2: I don't know if the result in Capture One is the same as proper support in C1 v21.

Consumerism

Ahh I see - thank you for answering!
Hopefully this reaches the Fuji team and will prompt a firmware update in the nearest future.
Cheers!

‘nuff talking. Download C1 and try it ! 🙂