YOUTA

If you set the aperture on the lens (which one?) to „A“ you can’t control it. Set it to another value and use the aperture ring on the lens.

You did not mention which lens you are using. This may help:
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t30/peripherals_and_options/lenses/index.html
(Some lenses have aperture rings and some do not.)

Adding to the good advice from Olaf: you’re not mentioning whether you look at raw or jpeg images on your computer. If its jpeg you may want to check which film simulation is active. Some film simulations have subdued colors and whites can be a bit greyish or blue-ish depending on the WB set. Most neutral ones are Provia and Pro Neg Std. The selected film simulation will also impact the preview jpeg in the raw file. Finally, did you calibrate you laptop monitor?

LCD and EVF do not show a „real“ preview. Use the exposure indicator and/or the histogram to set the exposure.
Also, you could try to change the settings for the LCD/EVF in the setup menu, as stated in the manual:
PREVIEW EXP./WB IN MANUAL MODE
Select PREVIEW EXP./WB to enable exposure and white balance preview in manual exposure mode, or choose PREVIEW WB to preview only white balance. Select OFFwhen using a flash or on other occasions on which exposure may change when the picture is taken.
Options PREVIEW EXP./WB PREVIEW WB OFF PREVIEW PIC. EFFECT
Choose ON to preview the effects of film simulation, white balance, and other settings in the monitor, OFF to make shadows in low-contrast, back-lit scenes and other hard-to-see subjects more visible.
Options ON OFF If OFF is selected, the effects of camera settings will not be visible in the monitor and colors and tone will differ from those in the final picture. The display will however be adjusted to show the effects of advanced filters and of monochrome and sepia settings.

lmao okay, I found the solution it is pretty simple actually all you have to do is change the "Pc connection mode" to automatic I wrote this so if someone ever get this issue this may help 😛

The other day I was talking a picture with my Fuji xA2 of my wife, and she ask is that a film camera ? You already probably know that the sound it’s pretty loud. Well that got me inspired. I bought this camera in EBay for les than $100, so I decided to use some old pieces from broken cameras and make an homage to a real film camera . Here is the result 

I stumbled upon a youtube video from "make art now" ,he was showing the new "DJI LiDAR 3D focus system". , Which can be used to give vintage lens "autofocus" ability . So we can get the oldest and unique Lenses and use it for daily work or fun ,same way we use a lens with auto focus ! .it seems interesting to me and i thought it will be useful for everyone here , who likes some specific vintage lens but wasn't buying it because it doesn't have auto focus ! .
 
 

I have not used the phone version and yes the windows one will support the files you like and output proper ones too. 
Try it for free and see the comparison page for details on file support 
https://www.cyberlink.com/products/powerdirector-video-editing-software/comparison_en_US.html
PC mag review comparing the big guys for reference  
https://www.pcmag.com/reviews/cyberlink-powerdirector
 
Good luck!
 

I think this is very recognizable for a lot of enthusiasts. What I notice in workshops and talking to photographers is that they view every image as important and spend roughly the same amount of time on every image. Let me give some of my thoughts on this. For my professional work I have a different workflow compared to my personal work. 
Professionally I shoot mostly tethered in the studio. With Hasselblad to Phocus software or with Nikon Z to Capture One (C1) in Sessions. C1 is setup to automatically apply the Style and some other editing tasks like Curve, Camera, Lens and sharpening/noise reduction. During the shoot we'll mark the images as 'keep/delete/don't know'. After the shoot the Art Director will make a final selection. Sometimes out of a 1000 images we only keep 4 or 5 for further processing. The editor or designer will work on those images remote. First the basics in C1, then the details in Photoshop. Each end shot easily takes 30-60 min of work.
For my personal work I do all the culling, editing and exporting myself. The import/culling process is the most important. Here you define how much work you'll end up with. I notice that amateurs rarely are selective enough. They tend to keep most of the images even though they have multiple shots of the same scene. You don't have to throw them away, just don't import everything. Be very selective. I often import only 5% of the images. Sometimes because they're technically not good enough, but mostly because they're lacking artistic quality. Of course you shoot for your own enjoyment, but while culling your images think: "what would a viewer think of this? Is it worth looking at?". If not, don't import.
At importing I use the Camera Profile, Lens Correction, Curve and Style that I want, so I don't need to revisit that. Then I'll revisit the images one-by-one and decide which ones I want to further work on. That is again a subset of what is imported. I only work on the images that will be exported for print or publish in my portfolio. The rest will stay there un-edited. When editing start with keystone corrections, cropping and white balance (WB can often be done in batch mode). Then I move to overall exposure, contrast and color and then the work that needs to be done in layers (like dodge and burn, color editing, vignettes and cleaning). Finally I have export recipes in C1 that almost automatically create the files for print or publishing. I rarely do a lot of sharpening and noise reduction. That is taken care of by the defaults in C1. Only the occasional NR for high-ISO images. Most of the work takes me about 30 sec per image unless I go into 'layer-work'. That may take 5-10 mins per image. It saves you a lot of time when you know what you want to do with an image and have a workflow. Moving the sliders back-and-forth takes a lot of time and isn't very useful unless you have a goal in mind. So, take some time to look at an image without adjusting. After editing, step away and if needed revisit a few days later. Just staring and trying usually doesn't make it better. 
There are excellent resources online to help you develop your own workflow. Scott Detweiler, Scott Davenport, Thomas Fitzgerald, Hudson Henry and Anthony Morganti to name a few. And of course the YT channel of your favorite raw editor.

So cool people do things like that. For filmmaking - unlocks whole new experience.

Thanks for the reply but I’m asking about something different, not the timer before the shot is taken but once the shot has been taken the count-down display is missing.
For example, if my exposure is set to 15 seconds once the shutter opens I would see a 15 second count-down on the LCD display. I did something that has caused that count-down display to disappear and I don’t know how to bring it back.

Ken Rockwell is the Chuck Norris of photography
Ken Rockwell's camera has similar settings to ours, except his are: P[erfect] Av[Awesome Priority Tv[Totally Awesome Priority] M[ajestic]
Ken Rockwell doesn't color correct. He adjusts your world to match his.
Sure, Ken Rockwell deletes a bad photo or two. Other people call these Pulitzers.
Ken Rockwell doesn't adjust his DOF, he changes space-time.
Circle of confusion? You might be confused. Ken Rockwell never is.
Ken Rockwell doesn't wait for the light when he shoots a landscape - the light waits for him.
Ken Rockwell never flips his camera in portrait position, he flips the earth
Ken Rockwell ordered an L-lens from Nikon, and got one.
Ken Rockwell is the only person to have photographed Jesus; unfortunately he ran out of film and had to use a piece of cloth instead.
When Ken Rockwell brackets a shot, the three versions of the photo win first place in three different categories
Before Nikon or Canon releases a camera they go to Ken and they ask him to test them, the best cameras get a Nikon sticker and the less good get a Canon sticker
Once Ken tested a camera, he said I cant even put Canon on this one,thats how Pentax was born
Rockwellian policy isn't doublethink - Ken doesn't even need to think once
Ken Rockwell doesn't use flash ever since the Nagasaki incident.
Only Ken Rockwell can take pictures of Ken Rockwell; everyone else would just get their film overexposed by the light of his genius
Ken Rockwell wanted something to distract the lesser photographers, and lo, there were ducks.
Ken Rockwell is the only one who can take self-portraits of you
Ken Rockwell's nudes were fully clothed at the time of exposure
Ken Rockwell once designed a zoom lens. You know it as the Hubble SpaceTelescope.
When Ken unpacks his CF card, it already has masterpieces on it.
Rockwell portraits are so lifelike, they have to pay taxes
On Ken Rockwell's desktop, the Trash Icon is really a link to National Geographic Magazine
Ken Rockwell spells point-and-shoot "h-a-s-s-e-l-b-l-a-d"
When Ken Rockwell went digital, National Geographic nearly went out of business because he was no longer phyically discarding photos
For every 10 shots that Ken Rockwell takes, 11 are keepers.
Ken Rockwell's digital files consist of 0's, 1's AND 2's.
Ken Rockwell never focus, everything moves into his DoF
Ken Rockwell's shots are so perfect, Adobe redesigned photoshop for him: all it consists of is a close button.
The term tripod was coined after his silhouette
Ken Rockwell never produces awful work, only work too advanced for the viewer
A certain braind of hig-end cameras was named after people noticed the quality was a lot "like a" rockwell
Ken Rockwell isn't the Chuck Norris of photography; Chuck Norris is the Ken Rockwell of martial arts.
Ken Rockwell never starts, he continues

Soon I will write to the representative office again. This defect is not fixed. I do not like it.

Well, I ended up using wide tracking in continuous, setting 5. While shooting, I thought for sure I must be missing a lot of shots, as the green squares always seemed a little behind the subject. 
 
As it turns out, this was entirely wrong. It seems the display of the AF points is just not quick enough to keep up with what the camera is actually doing. I was shooting with the 50-230, not known to be an especially fast focusing lens, and my keeper rate turned out to be quite good. I had very few frames where the AF didn’t grab the subject and stay with. I’m actually pretty impressed. 
 

You too!

Yes, I see that that brightness increased. Thanks again.

This feature is really needed in the XT-3 - Please Please add it

Is there any news or possibility for the xt-3 to get a update for the double exposure function from xpro3? At the moment it’s so simplistic that it lacks most creative options and seems like a wasted opportunity.
Would really be awesome to see the other options available on xt-3. Also any reason why Fuji doesn’t give the option of a raw file with the merged images, as far I could figure out Xpro3 also only has jpg.
Anyone else hoping for a bit more from the double exposure option?

Hello everybody I don't know if it's new or old but I believe windows can now natively view raf files. This might not be as exciting to everyone as most prob use an application like lightroom to view and sort out pictures, but to me it's pretty big. It can view compressed and uncompressed in the explorer and photos app. Just got excited and wanted to share.

The TO should try to understand that there is no such thing as the „real scene“ when it comes to capturing scenes with a sensor. There’s always processing needed and it‘s not Fuji specific. The viewfinder can only show a processed image if it‘s not an optical one.
Fuji gives you more choices with the film simulations than some other manufacturers. It‘s a question of taste which simulation you find to be most „natural“ and many people like the Fuji renderings. If you don’t like any of the renderings you have to process the raw files to your own taste.
 

Thanks very much!
Regards,
Steve

It's ok. I have the X-T30 mounted on a microscope and just wanted to tether. Instead I've gone back to using the hdmi output.
Thanks
Louise
 

The reason I posted is because I see the 10 minutes limit posted many times and in many reviews as a reason not to buy an XT30, but in reality a 10 minute shot in video terms is an eternity and is absolutely not a reason to avoid the XT30. In the vast majority of cases there is utterly no reason to shoot continuously and most people will get a better result from "running and gunning". However, no more posts on this subject. If you really want to discuss long recordings, please go ahead.

Most likely because the X-S10 is too new to be listed. Most 3rd party lens manufacturers go over extensive testing before they claim compatibility. Give them some time. Either way, bear in mind that 3rd party lenses sometimes have unexpected issues. E.g. the Viltrox 23/1.4 mentioned by @jacobus had some issues with X-Pro3 bodies. It was scuffing the lens release button. Viltrox now issues a warning for that, but did not (yet) fix the problem.

With Fuji raw files the raw converter matters but no so much for sharpness and contrast. Mostly for artefacts and noise reduction. Lightroom or Capture One shouldn’t be really different when it comes to sharpness. In all honesty you’re comparing a pro-grade full-frame camera like the 5DMkIII (had one for many years) with a consumer grade aps-c camera which most Fuji cameras are. On top of that you mention L-glass which is Canon’s most discerning line of lenses. Without exactly knowing which hardware you’re comparing, my guess is that your expectations are a bit too high. I use Fuji for personal work and have used it for a few years professionally as well (X-H1 a/o with red badge zooms and fast primes). I’m very happy with the results but they’re not in the same league as my current full frame Nikon Z’s. Let alone the Hasselblad H6D...