DaveC

Hard to tell without the ability to zoom in on the photo but it seems to me that the pink flower petals look sharpe. Could it be that you have simply focussed on the petals rather than the bird. Do you use a small single focus point or a large one. If you use a large focus point that may explain the problem. f5.6 at 300mm would have quite a narrow depth of field. If you have any doubts you could try some experiments on a tripod with clearly defined subjects, see if you get sharpe results then. I have the 70-300mm and find it very sharpe. Hope you solve it, Dave.

I normally shoot Manual focus but would like to set up a Custom function using AF-C with subject detection. As far as I can see it would not be sufficient to just change to the new custom function to move from manual to AF but I would also need to change the AF mode switch on the front of the camera from M to C. I dont do this on my XS10 as it does not have a physical AF mode switch. Am I correct in my understanding or am I missing something? I hope this makes sense. I basically want to switch between a manual focussing custom function to a AF focussing custom function without having to change the physical AF mode switch. Appreciate any help on this. DC

I use f7.1 or f8 for max dof on my X100v. The APSC sensor gives greater dof than full frame (35mm equivalent). If you want to see what is in or out of focus then shoot manual focus with focus assist set to red highlights, you will see clearly what is in focus. The X100v even displays a scale in the EVF indicating the focus distances. Enjoy your X100.

Dont forget the lossless compression for RAW files is very effective and results in no loss of quality or speed of processing. File sizes are about 30MB and I use them all the time in conjunction with full quality jpegs. I use a 64GB card. Enjoy your XS-10, I have had mine since September 2020 and love it.

I know its been a while since I posted this but thanks for your replies.

I realise this forum is titled Sunset but as there is no Sunrise topic I thought you might like these sun rises from my local beach at Christchurch, Dorset, UK.

As requested. DSCF9339v1 is a woodlouse in a pine cone.

As requested here are some of the first images I took with the Samyang f2.8 100mm macro lens. These are all jpegs straight out of camera (no processing) and hand held. I used iso800 to get a reasonable speed but the IBIS made a big difference. I have to say my main problem is the limited depth of field and focussing hand held is difficult. Using the MF assist I have experimented using Focus peak highlighting and Digital microprism. I have found the latter to be more useful when very close. The toadstools are appx. 2cm diameter. The lilly flower (DSCF9402) is appx. 5cm diam. The Salvia flower (DSCF9439) is appx. 1cm diam. Thanks for your interest jerryy.

Thanks for your help Jerryy, the lens was delivered today and I have found that attaching the lens to the X-S10 automatically selects the first lens setting in the Adaptor Settings (I had set this setting to 100mm with a suitable lens name). The EXIF data is updated accordingly. I will experiment with your suggestions but it seems strange that there is not a section of the manual that explains switching between lenses. I may email Fuji for the answer. I must admit I am pleased with the lens and the way it works on the X-S10. I just need to get used to getting the point of focus exactly where I want it, a few more days of use should do it. Thanks again, Dave.

I have just purchased a Samyang MF 100mm Macro F2.8 Lens for use on my X-S10. As it is not an adapted lens I assume I am in the correct forum for this question. On the X-S10 I can set the focal length and lens name in the Mount Adaptor Settings section of the menu so that the lens is shown in the Exif data. What I cannot discover is how to select between the 6 lens options whenever I attach this lens. Can anyone help with this? Thanks, Dave.

I agree, you cannot assess the quality of a cameras image unless you can access the RAW image. Another persons jpeg could have had all sorts of post processing done to it. On Flikr at the very least they will have been compressed and probably sharpened with increased clarity which often makes them look hard on the eyes. I will assess the X-H2 when I can download a RAW file. Dave.

Zohar, you do not say in your message how long you have used your fuji xt4 nor which of the on-board film sims you have used. My experience with my X-S10 and X100v suggests that using the standard Provia film sim, set WB to daylight and get your exposure right (use the histogram) will give you a perfect jpeg SOOC suitable for skin tones as well as water falls. You may have tried this already but if not I suggest you give it a go. Best of luck, Dave.

It is only obvious when IBIS is on continuously. If it is set to Shooting only then IBIS only kicks in briefly when the shutter is released. I love my XS-10 so hope you enjoy yours as much. Dave.

Just looking through the manual IS Mode for still photography cannot be assigned to the Quick menu (don't know why) but it can be assigned to a function button or a touch function. You could also try assigning it to My Menu, it is not clear from the manual whether that will work. I do not have my camera to hand at the moment to try it.

I use the WR kit and have a perfect lens cap. I use a lens cap from my old Olympus OM1 film camera lens, it clips inside of the filter thread. It is nice to reference my old film camera in this way. Just find a lens with the same thread size as the WR kit. Good luck, Dave.