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  1. Thanks
    dward reacted to Herco in Looking to jump into the Fuji system   
    Welcome @dgeorge959. Both are excellent cameras and depending on the lens you're using, they should be very suitable for landscapes too. Image quality is the same. I've had both and I've also used them professionally for a while. Just a short list of the most significant differences that I can recall.
    - There's obviously quite a difference in the form factor of the camera. The H1 has a deep grip and is a bit less 'retro-styled'. For long handheld shoots I prefer the H1, but you can also mount a grip to the T2 to reach more or less similar. However, mounting a grip on the T2 doesn't change the position of the shutter release button and that is again a way better experience with the H1 for long handheld shooting. Of course this is all moot, when you use a tripod;
    - The H1 is a bit more robust built and has slightly better weather-sealing. It is more aimed at 'pro-use'. The outer coating is more resistant to scratches and markings. The mount is more robust to better handle large lenses like the 200mm and the 100-400 zoom. The result is that the H1 is a bit bigger and heavier, but compared to your 5D still small;
    - The H1 has an annoying bug in some series: occasionally you get read/write errors when writing to the SD Cards. The only way out is to switch off and on the camera. Always use the Fuji recommended SD cards, insert/eject with care (camera switched off) and format the cards in the camera (every time after transferring the files). But even then... I've had 3 H1's over 3 years time and 2 of them had the recurring issue. Fuji wasn't able to fix it. I never heard of T2's with the similar recurring issue, but the T3 has it as well. Many Fuji-users have never experienced it, but it's an annoying issue for a small group; 
    - Obviously the H1 has IBIS (in-body image stabilization) but that is less relevant for landscape shooting. However, even when you turn it off, the H1 uses noticeable more battery power than the T2. So, while they use the same battery, you really want at least 1 or 2 spare batteries with the H1;
    - The H1 has the top sub-LCD which I always found very handy. However, this comes at the expense of the exposure compensation dial on the T2 top plate. The H1 has a button combined with the front- or rear dial for Exp. Comp. It's a matter of preference and getting used to;
    - The H1 has a touch screen as LCD. Fortunately you can switch it off entirely, because it's not a very good one (slow, lagging and sometimes non-responsive). It takes up battery life as well. In landscape photography it can be a nice feature to select focus points (when on tripod) and release the shutter, but most users I know, switch it off anyway;
    - The H1 has Bluetooth connectivity to the Fuji app (the T2 only Wifi). Bluetooth works way better, but the Fuji app is still 'crap' so you might not need it. A real significant difference though is the EVF. The H1 has a visibly much better EVF with higher resolution but also, more importantly. a higher refresh rate resulting in smoother movements and less noise in low-light situations;
    - The AF is more or less the same, but the H1 was designed for high speed action/sports. In my experience the AF of the H1 reacts a bit quicker when a subject is moving (less threshold) but the result is that specifically with eye-AF the H1 can sometimes erratically switch between eyes with only the slightest movement. The T2 is a bit more 'relaxed' and as a result sometimes works better in AF-C mode. However, with landscape this might not interest you at all;
    - More important is that the H1 allows you to change the behavior of the manual focus ring on the lens. Not only the direction, but also the response (linear vs. non-linear). When you work with MF (like many do in landscape photography) linear MF allows you to control the ring way better. The focus shift isn't depending anymore on the speed with which you move the ring (like it is with non-linear). The T2 only supports non-linear. Some of the Fujinon lenses have a focus clutch with hard stops on the lens (the 14/2.8, the 16/1.4 and the old 23/1.4. For those lenses it doesn't make a difference. 
    - Both cameras a popular on the second-hand market, but the H1 a bit more. So, expect to pay a premium for an H1 in very good condition. The difference is easily $200-300 between comparable T2's and H1's.
    I hope this has helped you a bit to make a choice 
  2. Like
    dward got a reaction from HaithamXT4Lover in Dark view/screen when I switch to video recording on XT4   
    Your exposure indicator on the left side of the screen shows several stops underexposed. If you’re using a manual exposure try to adjust your settings. 
    It is also possible that you have accidentally adjusted the exposure compensation dial and have it set to under expose by a few stops. I noticed it is under the cage and could have been adjusted without you realizing it.
    Hope this helps,
  3. Like
    dward reacted to Frank2 in Manual exposure in video mode and auto ISO, lowest ISO is 640   
    The problem is solved. I performed a setup-reset and now it is working.
  4. Thanks
    dward got a reaction from Peter Hicks in Capture 1 fuji express + Affinity Photo, or Capture 1 fuji?   
    Yes. Capture One Pro for Fuji adds a lot of functionality verse the Express version specifically around local adjustments and layers. I reserve Affinity for things C1 can’t do like panorama stitching and focus bracketing. For those items, I still process the RAW in C1, then export as TIFFs for blending in Affinity.
    If you are unsure it is worth it for your anticipated use, watch some of the tutorials that C1 has on their website. That should help you evaluate the potential benefits.
  5. Thanks
    dward reacted to CatsAreGods in New to Fuji   
    I also have an X-S10. You cannot depress either dial, but I definitely have it set up with front dial=aperture and rear=shutter speed. I have auto ISO and the left dial set to exposure compensation. So it CAN be done!
  6. Thanks
    dward reacted to jerryy in New to Fuji   
    What happens when you turn the aperture ring to the A position and then use the front dial to make adjustments?
  7. Thanks
    dward reacted to stefanocps in auto exposure mode in still   
    i have discovered the trick. The iso shown on the display don't reflect the effective iso used. When hal pressing the shutter, the real used ISO is shown. But only in that moment!
  8. Like
    dward reacted to NHKeith in Auto ISO question   
    Thanks David - you are right! I had DR set to AUTO and changing it to 100 lets Auto ISO select 200.
    That made me confused about what the DR setting is actually doing, The manual says to use higher values to reduce loss of detail in highlights and shadows. i.e. high values give greater dynamic range. Increasing ISO should reduce dynamic range so why would the DR option to increase dynamic range require high ISO? I found this description of what Fujifilm DR settings are doing: https://www.dpreview.com/articles/5426898916/ins-and-outs-of-iso-where-iso-gets-complex. What is surprising is this suggests that the greatest dynamic range comes from DR 400 and ISO 800. i.e. there is more dynamic range as ISO increases from 200 to 800.
  9. Thanks
    dward reacted to mrPeter in Fuji X-T3 SS (Shutter Shift) Keeps Overriding Manual Shutter Speed Settings   
    I had a similar experience with my X-T4, switching off D-range priority fixed it for me.
    Hope this helps for you too.
  10. Like
    dward reacted to JeroenB in Program AE: how??   
    Dave, that worked! I wasn't aware of that trick, thanks a million! 👍
  11. Like
    dward reacted to VictorM in What Fujifilm body to suit my needs?   
    I got X-E3 and 16mm F/1.4 today. 
    I tested on my favorite model.  Even on F/1.4 the lens is sharp enough for portraits, although 16mm is not very portrait-friendly focal length. 
    Im thinking to get 27mm F/2.8 "pancake" for people shots and street/travel shooting. 

  12. Like
    dward got a reaction from Klaus Armitter in What do you use to manage photos?   
    Probably inadequate but I just use my windows file structure. I use the pictures folder and have it synced to OneDrive for cloud storage. Inside the pictures folder, I set up a folders by year and then a level down a folder with whatever description for the folder makes sense (baby shower, Asheville trip, etc). I run them all through C1 so they are cataloged by it also. Like I started with, probably inadequate but it actually works out fine for me.
  13. Like
    dward got a reaction from mcewena in What do you use to manage photos?   
    Probably inadequate but I just use my windows file structure. I use the pictures folder and have it synced to OneDrive for cloud storage. Inside the pictures folder, I set up a folders by year and then a level down a folder with whatever description for the folder makes sense (baby shower, Asheville trip, etc). I run them all through C1 so they are cataloged by it also. Like I started with, probably inadequate but it actually works out fine for me.
  14. Like
    dward reacted to Herco in Post-Processing Backlog   
    I think this is very recognizable for a lot of enthusiasts. What I notice in workshops and talking to photographers is that they view every image as important and spend roughly the same amount of time on every image. Let me give some of my thoughts on this. For my professional work I have a different workflow compared to my personal work. 
    Professionally I shoot mostly tethered in the studio. With Hasselblad to Phocus software or with Nikon Z to Capture One (C1) in Sessions. C1 is setup to automatically apply the Style and some other editing tasks like Curve, Camera, Lens and sharpening/noise reduction. During the shoot we'll mark the images as 'keep/delete/don't know'. After the shoot the Art Director will make a final selection. Sometimes out of a 1000 images we only keep 4 or 5 for further processing. The editor or designer will work on those images remote. First the basics in C1, then the details in Photoshop. Each end shot easily takes 30-60 min of work.
    For my personal work I do all the culling, editing and exporting myself. The import/culling process is the most important. Here you define how much work you'll end up with. I notice that amateurs rarely are selective enough. They tend to keep most of the images even though they have multiple shots of the same scene. You don't have to throw them away, just don't import everything. Be very selective. I often import only 5% of the images. Sometimes because they're technically not good enough, but mostly because they're lacking artistic quality. Of course you shoot for your own enjoyment, but while culling your images think: "what would a viewer think of this? Is it worth looking at?". If not, don't import.
    At importing I use the Camera Profile, Lens Correction, Curve and Style that I want, so I don't need to revisit that. Then I'll revisit the images one-by-one and decide which ones I want to further work on. That is again a subset of what is imported. I only work on the images that will be exported for print or publish in my portfolio. The rest will stay there un-edited. When editing start with keystone corrections, cropping and white balance (WB can often be done in batch mode). Then I move to overall exposure, contrast and color and then the work that needs to be done in layers (like dodge and burn, color editing, vignettes and cleaning). Finally I have export recipes in C1 that almost automatically create the files for print or publishing. I rarely do a lot of sharpening and noise reduction. That is taken care of by the defaults in C1. Only the occasional NR for high-ISO images. Most of the work takes me about 30 sec per image unless I go into 'layer-work'. That may take 5-10 mins per image. It saves you a lot of time when you know what you want to do with an image and have a workflow. Moving the sliders back-and-forth takes a lot of time and isn't very useful unless you have a goal in mind. So, take some time to look at an image without adjusting. After editing, step away and if needed revisit a few days later. Just staring and trying usually doesn't make it better. 
    There are excellent resources online to help you develop your own workflow. Scott Detweiler, Scott Davenport, Thomas Fitzgerald, Hudson Henry and Anthony Morganti to name a few. And of course the YT channel of your favorite raw editor.
  15. Like
    dward reacted to Lumens in News Fujifilm X-H2   
    If it has that stupid selfie screen like the XT-4, I'll keep shooting my XT-3.
  16. Like
    dward got a reaction from Herco in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    Agreed, I was hoping the “unless you like Canon’s JPEG” caveat would address the individual preferences.
  17. Like
    dward got a reaction from mrPeter in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    If the OP is monitoring the thread -
    Which “picture style” did you use on your Canon if you were shooting JPEG? Standard, portrait, landscape, neutral, faithful or monochrome? With a little research you can figure out that Provia, ProNeg H or std and Velvia are the equivalent of the first three and then if you adjust highlights and shadows by minus 2 you get faithful, add in color by minus 2 and you get neutral...  Monochrome = Monochrome. Be forewarned, Fuji’s JPEG are typically considered better than Canon’s JPEG... unless you like Canon’s JPEG better, but then why use Fuji...
    If you shoot RAW and use Capture One and you’re really wanting to minimize the Fuji influence on the image, have the import apply the Linear Response curve to the image and you will get a nice flat desaturated image, just like the camera saw the “real” scene. You will have a lot of extra post processing to do to adjust the image to how you remember the “real” scene.  I suspect Adobe has an equivalent to linear response but as I have never used it I can’t say what it is. By the way, I would not recommend this as it’s just extra work.
    If you are wanting the image in your viewfinder to be an unaltered representation of the scene, don’t use a camera with an Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) use one with an Optical Viewfinder (OVF).
    I hope this helps,
  18. Like
    dward reacted to mdm in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    looks like a tunnel syndrome...
  19. Sad
    dward reacted to Afterimage in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    Two ways. One you could look through the viewfinder and see the effect of the simulation, press a button to set the simulation for the jpeg and then go back to Provia to see the real scene. Or if you have a simulation you like, then select it for the jpeg and then shot with Provia with the jpeg having the simulation.
    Should be able to do a custom setting with the simulations you like and then be able to shoot looking at the "real scene". 
    Looking at the real scene is important to see the various colors in the scene so you know what you are getting rather than having to see a simulation. 
  20. Like
    dward got a reaction from Sammyc in ND filters   
    Sorry for the delay, just saw this message. I use B+W (XS-Pro MRC Nano for the ND and the Kaeseman CPL). I can’t say they are better than other brands, just that they are the ones I use. I have been satisfied with them.
  21. Thanks
    dward reacted to The Hue in xt3 - ND filter won't fit (xf 18-55)   
    I figured it out, could someone delete this post please, before someone asks what i was doing wrong and i have to tell them i was trying to put it on backwards because that would make me look stupid if i had to tell everyone that. thanks  
  22. Like
    dward reacted to bergat in landscapes with fuji x   
    Bologna taken From Asinelli tower
    X-T1 10-24 F4 at F5,6 1/600 Iso 200
  23. Like
    dward reacted to Enzio in landscapes with fuji x   

    Lieblingsplatz by Enzio Harpaintner, auf Flickr
  24. Like
    dward reacted to Choccy in Should I trade the 16-80mm for the 56mm 1.2   
    Thanks Dave, Gives me plenty to ponder over. 
    I actually just did a photo shoot with the 16-80mm and the images came out really nice lol
  25. Like
    dward got a reaction from Choccy in Should I trade the 16-80mm for the 56mm 1.2   
    I would encourage you to consider the 50 f2. I think the 23/50 combination makes a nice pairing. The 50 f2 is weather resistant, focuses fast and takes nice portraits and detail shots. Images from one to the other would share a common “look” IQ wise.
    You did say you wanted the 1.2 or 1.4 and if you have your heart set on the faster 1.4/1.2, the 56 would give you a 23/56 pairing, equivalent of a classic 35/85 combination.  Hard to beat for your stated purposes.
    I do have the 23, 35 and 50 f2 and I tend to use my 35 as a stand-alone lens for when I don’t want to bother with or worry about changing out lenses.
    Best of luck with your decision,
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