andrei89

for surfing and shallow diving take a look at the dicapac cases

It seems you need a fujica x to fuji x adapter They’re not expensive, only about 25$

mode: auto? you should be in aperture priority mode to change the aperture manually and have the other settings adjust automatically

Because the camera is still made to take a correct exposure. With low light it will first decrease the shutter speed to the minimum you’ve set, then increase the iso and if it’s still underexposed it will decrease the shutter speed again below your set limit, but it will never increase the iso above the limit

Same happens on my x-e3, canon M and m5. It’s an inconvenience but far far away from what you call a design disaster it’s a limitation of small bodies. Some mechanical calculations were made and that ended up being the best support point

don't know about the second hand market in the Netherlands, but in Austria a used XF35 is 50% more than a new XC35 and other than the outside shell and aperture ring, there is no difference in optics, so there won't be any difference in IQ to answer to the OP: it depends what you shoot. a fast prime is always nice to have but if you don't use it because you prefer the zoom, then it's irrelevant how good it is

original post, now edited, stated 18-55 for the 16-55 i have no clue why it might shift exposure

i don't think any shop owner would be happy with you sticking a huge plunger on their window...so the polarizer solution is, at least, more elegant

a circular polarizer should eliminate the reflections, if that's what you want otherwise try using them to your advantage by moving around a bit to find shadows cast on the glass through which you can see inside

i wouldn't recommend using a flash in a cave. it can easily disturb any wildlife in there, even if you don't see any animals in tourist caves (where you have to pay for a ticket or there is a guided tour) it's forbidden to use a flash (with some exceptions) because increased levels of light can stimulate the growth of moss

No, the product is bad FOR YOU. Others who have tried it loved it and others have not. There is no perfect product for everyone. You give so few details about the problems that it's hard to take the post seriously. Also, i had to read through all of it to figure out what you're complaining about. And why would CEOs read a random internet post about a (maybe but unlikely) faulty unit?

well...one reason would be that i want to try a lens with an aperture control ring and secondly, i really don't like how the XC version looks...not an objective reason but a reason nonetheless

i might have the opportunity to get for my X-E1 (and in the future X-E3 or 4) a fuji 35 1.4 second hand for about 300€ here where i live...i don't know the actual condition of the lens, the person selling it states it's working perfectly.. my question would be: is that offer too good to be true? might there be some hidden flaws or defects? should i rather go for the f2 version? should i consider the viltrox 33?

pixel shift would be nice to be able to get higher resolution files but from what i've read the x-trans pixel pattern makes it harder to achieve this compared to the bayer arrangement... the GFX100 i think does have pixel shift but i'm not sure whether it's bayer or x-trans

i think you might be confusing processing with compositing (manipulating) even the jpeg your camera gives out has processing. the film simulations ARE processing. the simple raw file is ugly an unappealing without any kind of processing