Jump to content

Olaf W.

Moderators
  • Content Count

    385
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Reputation Activity

  1. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Paulie-W in Introduce Yourself   
    Hi all
    London based, and happily shooting with an H1. Long time Nikon, but gave it up as their CS was (not good). Since getting my first Fuji (T2), I havent looked back.
  2. Thanks
    Olaf W. got a reaction from hate in XT2 Firmware ver. 1.35   
    You‘re welcome, but I fear I‘ve run out of ideas. Maybe you are right with the firmware on the camera. It must probably be serviced then.
  3. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from hate in XT2 Firmware ver. 1.35   
    Are you totally sure you‘ve downloaded the X-T2 file and unpacked it before putting it on the SD card?
  4. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Kayin in Introduce Yourself   
    Hello, I'm a casual photographer that has occasionally used my old Nikon D3200 for times when I needed to make my own photos for graphic design (I work for a printing company.)  So I'm not completely new to the photography field, but also taking a lot of time to get caught up on current ecosystems and the main photography brands out there (Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fuji, etc.)
    Anyway, I'm looking to update my system and I naturally looked at Nikon first but none of their current offerings beckon to me quite like Fujifilm does.  Aside from the lack of full-frame models, I like Fuji's retro feel and its dedication to the APS-C sensor (which my old Nikon also uses).  They also feel more "worth the money" unlike Nikon and Canon's mirrorless offerings which certainly aren't bad, but are also very, very expensive (namely Canon).  I don't like how Fujifilm has held on to it's X mount to choke out third-party options like Sigma, Tamron, etc. but that will (hopefully) change in 2021 according to many "confirmed" rumors.  That being said, Fuji has a lot of adapter support so after careful research I've narrowed down my Fuji option to the X-S10 and would love to hear all your options on it.  I'm looking at a mix of photography and video use where for professional work I need it to work well for photos of any number of things put into a design for a magazine, brochure, post card, etc.  Personally I love wildlife and nature photography and I want to get into video work too, maybe even youtube stuff.
  5. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to SBK in New to Fuji cameras.   
    Welcome !
    Newbie myself to the Fujifilm's world.
    The GFX 100S is a lot of weight to carry around, unless the kind of pictures you want to take requires very high resolution.
    I am transiting from the full-frame world to APS-C to downsize the weight 🙂
  6. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to RJRizzo in Introduce Yourself   
    Hello, I'm Richard from Florida and a long time Pentax user since the 1970's, I purchased my first Fuji (X-S10) about a month or so ago with the 18-55mm kit lens and am loving it. My next purchase will be the 70-300mm lens which I'll be ordering this week.
    It's great to be part of a thriving community of Fuji users. 
    I'm a casual shooter these days but you can check out some of my images taken over the past few years on Instagram..
    https://www.instagram.com/richardrizzo_photography/
  7. Like
    Olaf W. reacted to ECG in Preview image much brighter in camera than when I download it   
    Ah, I had no idea! Thank you for letting me know and for the tips - that’s hugely helpful and I’ll take a look. 
  8. Thanks
    Olaf W. got a reaction from ECG in Preview image much brighter in camera than when I download it   
    The preview doesn’t show the actual exposure with the standard settings. Take a look at this thread for information about changing the preview setup:
     
  9. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to SBK in Hi   
    Currently an X100F user. Looking forward to stepping into the X-T4 world.
  10. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to David V Sinden in Introduce Yourself   
    Hi, I'm David and I'm based in South Wales.  I started out as a photographer back in the 80s, ran a photography gallery for many years, then ended up working in digital and internet art for a long while.  I came back to photography about 15 years ago using digital Nikons (my first camera way back was an Olympus OM 1 but I then switched to Nikons alongside medium format cameras back in the days of film).  However, I recently switched to Fuji x after borrowing a friend's camera and being really impressed with both the usability and, more importantly, the images - they just looked so good.  No going back now!   I shoot mainly portrait, art projects and occasionally landscape.  You can see some of my work on my website http://www.xox.org.uk 
  11. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to 2DogAle in Introduce Yourself   
    Rob here, I am a long time Canon user and have recently switched to Fujifilm X series. It's only been a few weeks and I am still getting to know my knew XT-4. I was nervous about going from full frame to APS-C after reading all the minuses of that sensor size. I rented a XPro3 last year and shot a christening with it. Loved the images and ever since I have been toying with the idea of switching my Canon DSLR to a Fuji X camera. Well, I took the plunge and dumped my entire Canon DSLR set up with lenses and switched. I am a landscape photographer and the weight of my old outfit was just too much. I read all I could about the X series and looked at as many photo examples as I could. I also emailed a landscape photographer that I know and respect who uses the X system and peppered him with tons of questions. So far, I have had mixed results with my knew set up. Seems to be wonderful with daylight images.. great color and there seems to be a lot of detail etc. I just shot a bunch of longer exposures during a rain storm and seems to have a ton of noise in the images. I used no filter, ND8 and ND1000 filters with a polarizer, a setup I had used many times before. The results are disappointing and not sure what I did wrong or if this is a limitation to this system. Any insight as to this issue or error on my behalf would be greatly appreciated. I am in this for the long hall and want to make it work for me. I have included a small .jpg for example so you can see what I see. Please excuse the rain spots on my lens as it was raining and windy out... This image is straight form the camera.
    Cheers,
    Rob

  12. Thanks
    Olaf W. got a reaction from ondrejkonrad in Date and time showing every time getting into live view   
    This should not happen, there seems to be a problem with the internal battery. In another case it was due to the use of an aftermarket battery instead of the original, which in some way prevented the internal battery from charging. 
  13. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from K PRETHVIRAJ in manual mode   
    If you set the aperture on the lens (which one?) to „A“ you can’t control it. Set it to another value and use the aperture ring on the lens.
  14. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from K PRETHVIRAJ in XT3- LCD preview image colours different to final image   
    LCD and EVF do not show a „real“ preview. Use the exposure indicator and/or the histogram to set the exposure.
    Also, you could try to change the settings for the LCD/EVF in the setup menu, as stated in the manual:
    PREVIEW EXP./WB IN MANUAL MODE
    Select PREVIEW EXP./WB to enable exposure and white balance preview in manual exposure mode, or choose PREVIEW WB to preview only white balance. Select OFFwhen using a flash or on other occasions on which exposure may change when the picture is taken.
    Options PREVIEW EXP./WB PREVIEW WB OFF PREVIEW PIC. EFFECT
    Choose ON to preview the effects of film simulation, white balance, and other settings in the monitor, OFF to make shadows in low-contrast, back-lit scenes and other hard-to-see subjects more visible.
    Options ON OFF If OFF is selected, the effects of camera settings will not be visible in the monitor and colors and tone will differ from those in the final picture. The display will however be adjusted to show the effects of advanced filters and of monochrome and sepia settings.
  15. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to marac in Introduce Yourself   
    Hi there, just joined, seasoned photographer, just got myself a Fuji X-T3 with the Fringer NF to FX AF adapter, I wanted this combination to use the Sigma 150-600 for birding.
    I like to adapt lenses to different bodies, this is all part of the fun. I have used many systems but settled with Leica. I had the X-T1 when it came out and also the X100 and X100F models.
    Let's see how the X-T3 can handle the wilderness, I pick the lens up tomorrow in Nikon mount so we shall see how everything works together.
    I look forward to mixing with the various photographers here and will enjoy sharing photos and wit.
  16. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Cbed in Hobbiest   
    Currently own a x-t4 with a 14mm, a 23mm and a 18-55 and a 60mm ( I like macro) I take photos just for fun love going on adventures and taking pics. I can’t decide if I want to 50mm or the x100v as my next purchase? I feel like I would love carrying around the x100v but haven’t seen it in person so I am not sure how it will fit in my hand.
     
    Helo I need options.
    thank you!!
  17. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to FJ40Dan in Introduce Yourself   
    Hello All!
    Started with a Canon F-1 in high school back in the 70's.  Put myself through college taking photos and set it down 20 years ago busy with kids.  
    Moved to a great landscape area Napa and it's mustard season with bright yellow between the rows of vines.  Picked up an XT-30 and am loving it!  Way more complicated than film but so much more flexible.  picked up a 18-50, 50-200, 12 and a 300 manual on the way.  Thank you in advance for your help and friendship.
    Dan 
  18. Like
    Olaf W. reacted to Herco in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    Hi Olaf, you're right about the processing and taste of simulations. Nevertheless, it would be good if Fuji would include a setting that bypasses all Highlight/Shadow, Color, Film Simulations etc. for the sake of unaffected Histogram readings. As it is now implemented, even in case you shoot raw-only, the histogram displays the effects of the active Custom Settings. You have to consciously create a flat profile in Custom Settings and select that, in order to get the 'raw' histogram.
  19. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Skroob in Introduce Yourself   
    Hello everyone!
    New Fujifilm shooter here. Moving into the Fuji ecosystem from Nikon FF DSLR's. I have been having a great time learning the ins and outs of my new X-T4. The images from this little camera are just super pleasing to work with. I am looking forward to learning and sharing with the new to me community.
  20. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from K PRETHVIRAJ in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    The TO should try to understand that there is no such thing as the „real scene“ when it comes to capturing scenes with a sensor. There’s always processing needed and it‘s not Fuji specific. The viewfinder can only show a processed image if it‘s not an optical one.
    Fuji gives you more choices with the film simulations than some other manufacturers. It‘s a question of taste which simulation you find to be most „natural“ and many people like the Fuji renderings. If you don’t like any of the renderings you have to process the raw files to your own taste.
     
  21. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Big Soots in Introduce Yourself   
    Hello, just taken delivery of a new XT-3 and 3 lenses. The 23mm f/2, 18-55mm & the 55-200mm.
    Live in Newcastle upon Tyne, UK. Took up photography 3 years ago on my retirement, to keep the old brain cells going and get some exercise. At that time acquired a Lumix FZ1000 Bridge camera, which has served me well and which I have retained.
    Interested in most genres of Photography but the one I want to develop is that of Street/Urban photography. Had one of my images published last year in a Street Photography magazine. The Fuji range seems to be the 'go to' choice for that genre, due to size, weight and image quality. Will be using the XT-3 solely for stills photography, not into video.
    The good thing about photography is that you can learn something new everyday. Therefore hoping this Forum will help in that regards.
  22. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to screwdriver in Introduce Yourself   
    hi there guys - Raffe here . ive been off photography for a while and used Nikon gear - im back and wanted a smaller footprint so i got myself an X-T1 and a few  manual lenses ( mitakon speedmaster 35mm 0.95 and laowa 65mm 2.8 macro ) lenses to start out . i joined the forum to learn more stuff .
  23. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from jerryy in Fuji X: Tips & Tricks   
    A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions  others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
    Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
    We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
    As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
    AFL Button not working
    If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
      Shutter not working with adapted lens
    Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
      Flash not working
    Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). 
      Can’t select ISO100
    Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
    Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
      Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets
    The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
    Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
      Autofocus not working anymore
    If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
      Locking D-Pad and Q button
    Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
    To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
    If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
      Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
    On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
    Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
      The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
    Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
    So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
      The camera appears to be dead
    If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
    Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
      Dead or stuck pixels
    If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.  Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
    Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
    If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
  24. Like
    Olaf W. got a reaction from Jim White in Fuji X: Tips & Tricks   
    A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions  others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
    Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
    We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
    As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
    AFL Button not working
    If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
      Shutter not working with adapted lens
    Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
      Flash not working
    Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). 
      Can’t select ISO100
    Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
    Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
      Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets
    The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
    Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
      Autofocus not working anymore
    If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
      Locking D-Pad and Q button
    Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
    To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
    If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
      Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
    On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
    Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
      The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
    Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
    So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
      The camera appears to be dead
    If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
    Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
      Dead or stuck pixels
    If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.  Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
    Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
    If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
  25. Thanks
    Olaf W. reacted to Choccy in Film Simulations are Worthless   
    Dude,
    As Olaf said, use Jpeg and Raw.
     
    Also in camera you can use bracket up to 3 simulations together or you can edit as many as you want.
    Real Scene, is basically Raw! 
     
    Simples 
×
×
  • Create New...