BGoat

An actual fully articulating screen would of been excellent. fuji just needed to include an elbow joint so the screen could be positionedin the same way as the XT3 and to the side. Simple.

Indeed. When I clicked on your forum message I was served with adverts suggesting I upgrade to a Nikon 850, so it looks like you fooled the robot. The bigger the sensor the less noise you get, I think effective iso is scaled by about the square of the crop factor. True, but so what? Since you would expect amazing IQ from your very expensive ff camera, and if your APC has twice the noise, that should be twice b-all (aka a very small amount).

You could try repeating the problem by taking a time lapse, I dont have this camera but I think it does it. A picture a minute for 5 hours maybe. check the time stamps on the pictures from when it went wrong, to see what load it was under and increase it a bit. Also somewhere on the web is info on expanding 3party batteries, so that maybe a factor. You could try testing for this as well maybe.Given it has gone wrong then it def has a fault, and the motherboard most likely will be where any dry joins are, is my guess. edit: Have you an estimate in your business plan for how long your eqipment should last? (aka how long is a pieceof string). sounds like you need to purchase another body, saying this could be well anoying as it is going to be tricky to earn a ton of money as a photographer.

From a practical point of view it would be difficult to make it fool proof (fools are too smart). Once you give a user a programming capability you are asking for trouble; when they get it wrong you end up having to fix it, or worse when they destroy the hardware, they get to claim under guarantee for a new camera. From a commercial point of view you might be giving away future enhancements that you need to be able to make money out of (to stay in business you need to make money). It would also require a total rewrite of the firmware code base, although this is going to be a good thing to do every so often in any case. Someone has made available a code hack for Canon, I can't remember what it is called, it might do this sort of thing, Google about to find it; so maybe it is a totally doable thing...

do the environmentally friendly thing, and buy a second hand T2.

I have also experienced this recently. I thought it was to do with switching between some manual lens I was trying and a Fuji lens. Now I am not so sure. Various switching off and on and removing the lens fixes it. It does not happen very often and so I tend to forget about it. I have not considered re-flashing. I was thinking it might be some sort of logic bug hit when switching between manual and auto focus lens, but this is probably my imagination.