ryan

I've shot one full wedding (about 1500 images) and a few portrait sessions with the Xpro2 as well as playing around with it a ton since I got it day one. I haven't had this issue one time. I know that it's a issue for some of you but just wanted to give a heads up that I think it might be a batch not all the cameras. For reference tracking this my serial number starts with 61A0

Four on camera bounce I use the i40 - I do think it's pretty underpowered for bouncing in most places though. But I usually use a two light set up on stands along with a third hand held (Yn-560-iv) once we get into the open fun party dancing. And believe it or not a lot of times I will put the Fuji away in favor of my Ricoh GR and that three light set up. The snap focus feature onthat camera is absolutely perfect for that kind of loose, fun dancing and it is sharp as hell.

When the lights are dim and it's "party dancing" time I primarily use manual focus, albeit in a zone-focus type of way. But that works great for that time of the night. I primarily use the 18mm f/2 for that because it's light and wide.

It can definitely be disabled by turning it off in the "Screen Setup" menu, then "ImageDisplay" then choose one of the choices " continuous, 1.5 sec, .5 sec, or off" . The only reason I can think of that the X-T1 would still show a preview image after you'd disabled it is if you were trying to shoot without an SD card in the camera.

The 18-55 is a fine lens but it lacks speed at the longer end, has an unreliable OIS system and is, optically, not as good as the 16-55 2.8. I found variable aperture lenses to be a PITA. YMMV (!). But it's also a heck lot cheaper, smaller and lighter and works just as well for formals/group shots and some documentary stuff.
 
Besides, I found the 35 to be a heck lot more useful for couple portraits than the 56 or 90. With the 35 you can keep connected to the couple while you have to step back quite a bit with the 56/90.

Well hey, that's why there's different options. Just because you do it one way doesn't mean another way isn't viable. To each his own.
 
That said, I rarely shoot JPEG only, haha. Just for personal stuff.

No argument needed. Never said I shot only JPEG. Memory is cheap so I always shoot RAW + Jpeg. But if I have it dialed in from there it can much faster to use the jpegs for processing and pull in the raw if I need them. Dynamic range is great on the raws, but in actual practice I use the dynamic range adjustments as an exception, not a rule....meaning the majority of images don't need a ton of it. And those jpegs have a lot of range too. 

It can be done. You need to be a bit more diligent on your exposures of course. Here's a few weddings where I used all Fuji jpegs, mostly w/ Classic Chrome simulation and Velvia for the dance party. 
 
http://www.ryandavisphotography.com/Featured-Weddings/Karen-Ryan-Blog/
http://ryandavisphotography.blogspot.com/2015/05/margaret-chris-rockford-wedding.html

I've been shooting weddings w/ Fuji since the latter part of last season. Here's my current setup:
 
2 X-t1's - most use one, one backup
1 X100T - just for the hell of it
1 Ricoh GR - love it for dancing and party pics. hi-contrast b&w and positive film in camera presets have their own mood.
18mm f/2 - this guy is my Fuji party dancing lens
23mm f/1.4 bread and butter
35mm f/1.4  sits in the bag mostly, couple portraits
56mm f/1.2 - for making pretty portraits
18-55mm f/2.8-4 -very underrated
50-140mm f/2.8 - ceremony lens for long reach
 
I wish fuji had HSS and off camera TTL, but can't have everything I suppose.
 
Flashes:
On camera - Nissin i40
Off camera: 2-3 yongnuo 560IV triggered by RF605 triggers and power levels managed by a 560-TX
 
Here's a few recent weddings:
 
http://www.ryandavisphotography.com/Featured-Weddings/Jen-Dustin-Blog
 
http://www.ryandavisphotography.com/Featured-Weddings/Karen-Ryan-Blog

@Marc G. I don't know if I would necessarily say that flash destroys the whole mood. Sure, it CAN destroy the mood, depending on the venue and activity, but in many cases, that's another decision we experienced photographers have to make. I could have certainly avoided flash in almost all of my reception photos, but for some venues with poor lighting or character, an off-camera flash can actually ADD to the mood. Again, I believe that flash at weddings should be carefully considered. 
 
As far as ceremonies go, I've yet to even see a photographer use flash at one, let alone using it myself. I can't imagine many officiants are very fond of that.

I used the X-T10 yesterday with nearly every lens Fuji has out. (No, the 90mm was not available.) As someone with an X-T1 (and X100S) looking for a second body, I was thinking about either a second hand X-T1 or a brand new X-T10. After using it, I've put in my pre-order for the X-T10. If I had no existing Fuji cameras, the X-T10 is still what I'd go for. If a used X-T1 doesn't appeal to you then the X-T10 is unquestionably the way to go; 50% of the price and, to me, 95% of the performance. If money is no object to you then the X-T1 still is the better camera, obviously.

I really didn't think I'd like the T10, but using it I found several things to like over getting another X-T1:
- The more rubbery covering makes it easier to hold with one hand, even though it's a smaller unit. I noticed this especially when using the tilt screen to take a shot overhead.
- The dials seem harder to accidentally knock, even though they don't seem to have any way of locking. They're just that little bit smaller and out of the way.
- It feels better proportioned for the smaller lenses like the 14mm, 60mm, 27mm and 18-55.
- Though the EVF is noticably smaller, it's a tiny bit nicer than the X-E2's EVF and when I pointed it towards dark areas, I felt it looked nicer than the X-T1's. By having the same resolution and refresh rate but scaled down, it actually looks smoother.

Conversely, there were a couple of things which did make me hesitate, and the X-T1 still does better:
- Assigning an unmarked function dial to ISO is one action slower and not quite as nice to use as the ISO dial of the X-T1.
- The EVF of the X-T1 obviously is much larger and in normal light and bright light, the X-T10's doesn't remotely compare.
- The X-T10 started to feel very slightly unbalanced with the 16m and 56mm lenses and was totally ridiculous with the 50-140. (But even the X-T1 feels too small compared to the 50-140.) The 90mm wasn't there to try, but I'm sure it will dwarf the X-T10, too.
- The X-T10 definitely does look cheaper. There's no getting around it, it's got much more plastic and rubber and looks like a toy when you hold it next to a graphite silver X-T1.

I decided to put an order in for the X-T10 because, as a second body, saving a little size and weight is nice and the differences in build quality, EVF and dials don't bother me, considering how I'll be using it.
If I didn't have the X-T1, I'd probably still buy the X-T10 because the difference in price is almost the same as a lens, and that is what I would suggest for you. You're getting virtually the same camera—same sensor, same AF, same tilt screen—for half the price. Buy an X-T10 and a 16mm, 23mm or 56mm lens for almost the same price the X-T1 body alone will cost. In fact I'm pretty sure you'll be able to buy the X-T10 and the 35mm f/1.4 for the exact same price as an X-T1.
If you'd buy a used X-T1, that evens things out a bit but the X-T10 is still cheaper and now I know how similar they are, I'd still suggest you save money and get the X-T10.
If you can easily afford an X-T1 and every lens you want without thinking twice then just go for the X-T1. It is a nicer camera, it's just not twice-the-price-nice if you want to be at all smart with your money.