Jim White

Yes, yes I am referring to 'focus peaking'. It takes some practice, but it works well for me when I am using manual focus lenses (or auto focus lenses in manual focus mode).
Once you get used to it (or any of the other techniques) you can become fast using it and, if you are careful, you can get the focus very specific beyond what auto focus gives you. For a lens with such a shallow depth of field (f1.2) that Jim White is wanting to use it with, sometimes the auto-focus box will be very close, but manual focus will be right there -- if you can get it to work.

Hi @jerryy - just to clarify, are you referring here to 'focus peaking' or is there some other setting that you are referring to to see the dancing pixels? I am having the X-S10. Thank you.

Hang in there! Patience with practice pays.
if you use the technique with a wide angle lens instead of a normal or telephoto lens you can see the focus ‘line’ sweep from front to back or from one side to the other if you orient portrait-wise.
 

For what it is worth (HTH):
I use focus peaking quite a bit, with the highlights in white.
I use the joystick to move the focus box to where I would normally use for auto focus, then push in the rear command dial. This zooms in, filling the evf or lcd with only the part of the image that is inside that focus box area. My X-T30 has two levels of zoom, rotate the rear command dial to swap between them, usually I just leave it at the maximum zoomed in level, but normal usage seems to kick this between the two settings (the size of the focus box tells you at a glance which level you are in). Pushing the rear command dial again takes you back to regular full screen viewing.
Once zoomed in, rotating the focus ring in the lens will move the focus in or out of course, but after a short time the white pixels from the highlights will start dancing to show you where the focus is. As you slowly, repeat slowly, did I mention slowly?, rotate the ring, the dancing pixels will either disappear or more of them will appear. As you sweep back and forth, find where the most dancing pixels are and take the shot. If there are not any or very few dancing pixels, you are probably not in focus.
I use the white - highlights menu setting mostly for the usual type of contrast in the scenes I find because their dancing pattern catches my vision quickly, but the other colors and lows vs highs also work for differing contrast scenery.

I have hesitated to reply to your query as it is a difficult subject. We have all gone through finding our first suitable post processing software and it is not easy. We are overwhelmed by the number of options but you eventually realise you do need them. 
I am sure that most forum members would recommend the software that they use and they all do a good job. The problem we have as new users of pp software is in knowing what we want to do to the photograph in question. The skill is in knowing what needs doing. Finding the tools to use in any software is the easier part.  The software suppliers and other third parties such as Scott Kelby provide many on-line video tutorials which are well worth watching. 
I found that my local library was helpful in that I could borrow books on the subject of processing photos even though they were usually old and applied to some version of Photoshop that I did not use. In spite of this they allowed me to understand what a photo needed. Just dont try to understand all the tools, it is the 'What needs doing' that is important.
I currently use On1 Photo Raw and ACDSee though I did use Lightroom in the past. Many on this forum use Capture One. I think we all benefit from a software product that has built in Photo Management which the above have.
If you know a fellow photographer then they may be your best source of help as there is nothing better than a guiding hand.
You can always post messages on this forum for help.
To help you select a piece of software  I recommend downloading a trial first, but be mindful of the full cost as some are much more expensive than others.
I would not recommend PS elements, I started with it and wished I had not as it is far more complex than you think and has a poor user interface in my opinion.  
I do not know if this has been helpful, I hope it has, Dave.

Artemus
 

My cat Rivet likes playing in his box...
 

Monte - X100S

Welcome to our forum. There are different preview modes, which one do you use? With the standard settings the preview is brighter so you have to watch the exposure meter for correct exposure.

For my camera, to put Clarity off solved the problem. It works very well now with the same cards.    And it’s a very pleasant camera to use. 

Hi Zababo
I have no solution regrettably but can agree with all your comments and frustration. Its not the Clarity setting, been there done that,  as you say I just use Burst mode to get round it, especially for Portraits or Street. I think you will find its also a lot faster when camera is set to Manual mode, so it must be something in the default Auto setting!!!  

Be aware that (unlike the X-Pro2) the X-E2s is not weather resistant. It's more susceptible to moisture building up in the camera.

This is most likely one of the known issues with the X-Pro2. I've had this on one of my two X-Pro2 copies and I've also heard this from others.
The issue is the on/off switch. Though Fuji claims the camera is weather resistant, the sealing of the shutter button and it's collar isn't great and moisture can affect the contacts of the on/off button. Another similar weak point is the WR sealing of the back rear dial that can affect the push function of that rear dial. If it gets worse, you can have it serviced.  

Beluga 
X-Pro1 & Fuji 35mm f2
 
 

You probably need to switch off Preview Exposure in the Setup/screen setup menu.

A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions  others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
AFL Button not working
If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
  Shutter not working with adapted lens
Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
  Flash not working
Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS). 
  Can’t select ISO100
Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
  Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets
The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
  Autofocus not working anymore
If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities: The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C. The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
  Locking D-Pad and Q button
Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
  Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
  The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
  The camera appears to be dead
If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
  Dead or stuck pixels
If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.  Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.

I agree with you, I'm not going to hold my breath waiting for a silver version!

When Take Kayo was asked during his last live stream why there is no silver version of X-S10 he answered that it's for the same reason X-H1 doesn't have silver version as well. Both cameras are just plain ugly and black color helps to hide it to some degree. (min. 54 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=id3OPVAaCmE ). That was a joke though.

Make that three!

my guess is that it won't happen .because they changed the design from the previous models which had vintage film camera look . so since the xs-10 has more modern design with modern camera type grip , i guess fujifilm will not be releasing a silver version for it .it's my personal observation ! , but it would be nice if they release a silver ,since the design is not like vintage film camera ,they can make a full body silver color one ,which would look nice !

I am glad to help! )

Hi Jim. Is pre-af ON or OFF?

If that was a third sale and there's still none of X-E3 there now, probably yes.
And certainly, X-T3 is the best alternative to X-E3 for $1K.
But still I'd really love to see the 4th model to have something more compact in my pocket

Being an owner of a X-T4, I am waiting for the issue of the X-E4 to get it as a secondary camera. I was looking at the X-E3 sales on B&H, hesitating if the 4th is worth waiting, but today I've figured out that none version of X-E3 is available. Is it a coinstance, or Fuji is about to show up with the X-E4?

i also worried about the joystick as I moved from X-e1 to x-e3 ..... now I forget why I was worried ... got use to new setup very quickly