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mma2

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About mma2

  • Birthday October 13

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    Roseville, CA
  • Interests
    Photography (of course!), golf, amateur radio

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    rahom@sbcglobal.net

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  1. I have both the 18-55 (a known sharp copy) and 23/2 and have used both on several X-bodies. I prefer the 23mm because it's images simply look better to me. Cannot say exactly why this is, but I repeatedly prefer its images over the zoom. So much so, that my traveling kit is now all primes (14/2, 23/2, 50/2) and I prefer all of them to the zoom at similar FLs. My $0.02
  2. I have gravitated toward a compact kit consisting of the 14/2.8, 23/2 and 50/2 with my X-E3 for overseas travel. I do have a 35/2 but found that I hardly used it in favor of the 23. Hence, a lighter 3 lens kit instead of 4. I did carry my X-H1 with just the 16-55/2.8 on one European trip. The weight of this combination is about the same as having 3 primes and one body, the entire weight was then in one piece around my neck or on my shoulder. I didn't find this to be a problem even when walking all day. However, while the convenience of a zoom and IBIS were great, people did notice whenever I pointed my camera in their direction and either changed what they were doing or tried to get out of my view. Not so with the compact kit. I felt that I was intruding upon them. [The enormous size of the lens shade for the 16-55 makes it especially noticeable. So I often remove it.] Difficult decisions to make, each of us has their own preferences. Best Wishes on yours!
  3. Nice! May I please ask which lenses you took on your trip? Best Wishes!
  4. Yes, the X100 can shoot RAW+JPEG, with choices of several JPEG sizes. Congrats on your X100 purchase! If you wouldn't mind a few suggestions...First thing to do is to update to the latest firmware version, this resolves a number of issues that you might have read about in old reviews. Then, take your time in familiarizing yourself with its operation and you are likely to be richly rewarded. One tip that I learned from another X100 owner is that you can just half-way press the shutter button in lieu of the "Menu/OK" button in the middle of the Command Dial. This is useful because my fingers are sometimes too big to hit this button cleanly, sometimes I partially hit one of the other Command Dial controls in this cluster instead. Another tip is to use the EVF histogram when shooting in bright, contrasty situations. My experience is that the X100 tends to slightly overexpose in such conditions. Using the histogram is more accurate and the Exposure Compensation dial will become your friend (and it's a joy to use). Last, I have been a RAW shooter with my other Fuji cameras, but have found that the X100 produces exceptional JPEGs that are often hard to equal in PPing RAWs (using both Lightroom and Capture One Pro). That is, when I nail the exposure! Hence, my constant checking of the EVF histogram. Hope that this is useful, enjoy your X100!
  5. I shot with MFT for several years, OMD-EM1 mki & mkii, EM5 and a number of Olympus and Panasonic lenses. I no longer own this gear and now own several Fuji bodies and lenses, including a X100, and I have owned a X100T in the past. I prefer Fuji for IQ, specifically for the improved dynamic range in good light and color rendition over my former MFT gear. Specific to the X100 series, the simplicity and feel of the controls and dials are very enjoyable (but not as much with the X100F with its incorporation of a touchscreen IMO), but the IQ will be better in the ways mentioned. The X100 series bodies also feel like premium quality equipment. What you will miss is IBIS, although the 23mm (35mm FF equivalent) is easy to hand-hold at slow shutter speeds. The leaf shutter also helps by generating very little vibration. Capable of much better skin tones, WB, and flash performance with the built-in unit over my MFT experience, too. The X100S and T models are available used at favorable prices these days. If they appeal to you, might think of acquiring one to evaluate. If you don't like it, you will be able to get almost all of your money back. Chances are that you will be keeping it!
  6. I own a X-H1 and sometimes use it with a couple of vintage 1950s Leica M-mount and LTM mount lenses via adapters. IBIS works very well with these lenses and will also do so with adapted Nikkors. Regarding IBIS, Fuji claims maximum IS performance when Fuji OIS lenses are mounted on the X-H1 and both the OIS lenses and the X-H1 have been updated with the latest firmware for each, respectively. Adapted lenses will have reduced IBIS performance. My experience with my adapted lenses has reflected this. IBIS allows me to hand-hold my adapted lenses down to a shutter speed a stop or two higher than a similar focal length Fuji OIS lens, but 3(+) stops better than what I can achieve with IBIS turned off or when the same lenses are mounted on my X-E3. I am thrilled with this aspect of my X-H1's performance. Hope that this helps.
  7. My overseas travel set is the 18-55/f2.8-4 and 10-24/f4. In the past, I have found that I took very few pictures at focal lengths greater than 70-85mm (full frame equivalent) so this set works nicely. I could reduce the size and weight by substituting my 14/2.8 for the 10-24, but I prefer zooms when being a tourist at busy attractions. Sometimes I cannot frame the image the way that I want by moving to a better location in crowded places. For travel to places to view wildlife, I add the 55-200. My wife and I love to travel and either walk a lot or take public transportation to experience the local flavor, so lightweight Fuji gear is wonderful. While I have a full set of Fuji f2 primes, I prefer zooms when traveling. To me, zooms are my friends in these situations for not only the above reason but also to minimize lens changing. My experience is that I would miss opportunities and increase the possibility of sensor dust (which has happened to me during travel) with primes. The quality of these 3 Fuji zooms is such that I don't worry about a smidgen more IQ that primes might give.
  8. I use the live EVF histogram to set exposure. To ETTR, I simply make sure that the histogram is not bunched near the right side of the graph and use the Exposure Compensation knob if needed. With this technique, my experience is that I can easily recover 2-3 stops of shadow detail in my X-T2 and X-Pro2 RAW files (using Iridient X-Transformer & Lightroom). I consider Picture Preview to be very useful if set to a reasonably neutral film simulation (e.g. Astia or Classic Chrome). I have adjusted my EVFs to render as close as possible to the calibrated monitor on my post-processing PC when Preview is set to Astia emulation. Then, Picture Preview gives me a reasonably accurate view of what the highlights and darker areas of my image will look like for the chosen exposure. Note: in bright sunlight with strong shadows, ETTR will yield a Preview with the darker areas of a scene being too dark to see much detail with some film simulations. Under these conditions I prefer a Preview using a film simulation without enhanced contrast. Hope that this helps.
  9. Also owned a X-T10 and a X-T2 (same sensor, AF, and many features as a X-T20). Either of your stated options are good choices, you won't be making a mistake with either one. Personally, I would prefer the overall faster operating speed of the X-T20. You have indicated an interest in having a lighter lens in this thread and the 16-50II is certainly lighter than a 18-55. One other advantage of this lens is that its wide end starts at 16mm (vs. 18mm). When traveling on vacation, I often found that 18mm was not quite wide enough. 16mm seems just about perfect in this regard. Best of luck!
  10. I own a 18-55 and have shot a borrowed a 15-45 for several weeks. My suggestion, if possible, is that you try the zoom mechanism on a 15-45 before purchasing one. This is a motorized zoom (PZ) that zooms via a two direction ring on the lens. The lens does not stop zooming immediately when you stop the zoom mechanism, it will over-shoot or under-shoot slightly. It took me a while to get used to this and to learn to anticipate when to stop zooming so that my framing would be approximately where I wanted. While mastering this zoom mechanism can done, many may not prefer this PZ zoom. As to IQ, the 15-45 is a very good lens and better than some of the Nikon DX standard zooms that I have owned. However, I prefer the IQ of my 18-55. Both are very good lenses. However, I would strongly recommend that you be completely comfortable with the PZ aspect of the 15-45 before purchasing one. This issue is one that could become a lingering one in longer term use after the initial joy of ownership has past. Best of luck with your decision.
  11. I use this adapter for my Nikkors on my X-Pro 1 and X-Pro2: https://www.amazon.com/Beschoi-Adapter-Nikkor-G-Type-Fujifilm/dp/B01LN7WON4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1529676173&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=nikon+to+fuji+adapter&psc=1 It works very well and is inexpensive, just know that it supports manual focusing and there is no electrical connection between AF Nikkors and your Fuji body. I use one of this same manufacturer's Leica M-to-Fuji adapters for Leica lenses and it also works very well.
  12. I would not buy a Fuji FF camera or lenses. While the OP is asking whether I would support rather than buy Fuji FF products, buying is the ultimate way of expressing support. Would I be a cheerleader for Fuji FF products? No, not if I thought that this would dilute Fuji's attention from their currently superb product line. Whether Fuji has the resources, manpower and leadership to design, produce and market a FF product line in addition to the current offerings remains to be seen. And to what financial end? Sony has had a 3+ year lead on FF mirrorless and Nikon and Canon are about to join this party in a very big way. Back to my being a customer rather than a cheerleader...I bought Fuji gear because I wanted something lighter and smaller than my former Nikon and Canon FF systems. Not much chance of a Fuji FF product line satisfying this requirement.
  13. I love my X-Pro2 just the way it is, but dreaming about improvements (for my uses), my vote would be for a future X-Pro3 to include: Retaining a body size and weight similar to my X-Pro2. Improved organization for menus. Group menu options more logically, please. Auto-ISO that takes into account the focal length of the attached lens (with zoom lenses, the FL currently set) IBIS - No reason that the camera body has to be as large as a X-H1 for effective IBIS. My former Olympus OMD bodies were a lot smaller and had terrific IBIS. I second the suggestion for a faster-refresh EVF
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