Max_Elmar

Honestly - I would prefer an aperture ring - but if it really were as small as the 27 - I could certainly learn to live without it. Either way - still a strong "buy."

Perhaps not quite as small as the 27/2.8 -- but 18/2 size would be just fine for me. (I really want an aperture ring!)

Yes! If it had the same relationship to the "big" 23 as the 35/2 has to the 35/1.4 - that would be a fantastic development. I would most likely buy one. The 23/1.4 is outstanding - but a "little brother" - smaller, slower, less expensive, more even performance, but less peak performance - that would be a very welcome development indeed. A lot of folks have told me it would never happen "because it would cannibalize the X100 series" - but hopefully Fuji has realized the differentiator for the X100 is the viewfinder, not the lens.

My X-E2 w FW 4.0 works the same - in MF mode it always returns to the focus point - but it always cycles to parked position when leaving shooting mode. Might be a good note to send along to Fuij. But I think you're going to need a manual focus lens to truly get rid of the issue. Or more patience - which is very useful for macro shooters! Hey, you need another lens (or an extension ring) to get to 1:1 anyway. Auto focus or stabilization of any kind seems to be more trouble than it's worth for macro. (I was talking about 'in lens" or "in body" stabilization. A stable tripod or other platform with a firm camera attachment is essential.) Not to plug Nikon again, but you can get an excellent used 55/3.5 Macro-Nikkor for just a bit more than the price of a Fuji battery.... Or, for a bit more, any of the Sigma or Tamron or Tokina 90-105 macro lenses in all sorts of mounts....

Still happy with the three original lenses: 18/2, 35/1.4, and 60/2.4 - even though I have expanded my lens set, I use these the most. They fit in my smallest bag with a body! They are all still excellent lenses, even the 18/2 which some people seem to think is "not as good as the zoom" - I strongly disagree - esp. @ f2.8. That being said - I often use my 18-55 zoom for the OIS and convenience when traveling. When I do that I take a Rokinon 12/2 and an ancient (1968) Nikkor-H 85/1.8 w/adapter which fit in the bag (by themselves). Both of these lenses excel in the way that I use them. I certainly could see myself using a 14/2.8, 23/1.4, and 56/1.2 combo, but that will have to wait. If sports and/or action, BIF photography are on the schedule, the Fuji bag gets left home for my Nikons. Sorry about that, but I still believe high-performance DSLRs (and the exotic primes that I can rent as needed) are better tools for those jobs.

It's a very significant cash difference for the Fuji combo. These things really need to be judged on a system basis rather than by a single camera - but let's try. You get a smaller camera with weather sealing with the XT-1. You get a slightly better kit lens with the XT-1. You get a higher frame rate with X-T1. Maybe better build quality and more dedicated control wheels and buttons. You get a generation newer sensor with more pixels with the D5300 - but not a huge difference. A built-in flash, built-in GPS. Bigger, longer lasting battery with D5300. Just judging by the kits as described side by side - I like the D5300. If you like Fuji color film, you will like the film simulations on the Fuji. If you like shooting with smallish, excellent prime lenses in the mid range, the Fuji is looking really good. If you want a great flash system - Nikon. If you want to use a wide range of fast zooms, or exotic, fast, long lenses - or simply the ability to rent whatever you want - Nikon.

Unless you want to completely re-invent your workflow, Lightroom is probably the way to go - esp with Mac and PC together. (But you may want to read about the latest Adobe CC "security" updates on that Mac.) The conversion in LR is very good - especially with some practice, good presets, and a well-organized workflow, it's just not as good as it can possibly be - IMO. With my Fuji X cameras, I develop the RAW files in Iridient Developer before I do anything else with them. (Iridient is Mac only.) If it's a tricky file, I output a 16 bit TIFF for post. It's a delight to work with those files. Fuji is a travel/hobby camera for me. My professional work is still mostly Nikon RAW files (D800, D810) going directly into LR. I am mostly a Landscape/Architectural photographer, so things might be different for you. Good luck!

It's not that unusual for B&H and Adorama to be conservative with due dates for high-demand items. And no one complains if the stuff gets out a little earlier than the published due date. The most likely scenario is that demand is higher than they can fulfill with their originally scheduled first shipment. First camera from Fuji with a (potentially) better sensor - first new sensor in 4 years? Yeah, it's demand. Way too late in the game for most of the other scenarios - undiscovered flaw, etc.... Some may find Thom's analysis of the D500 delay interesting reading.

Pretty thrilled with this update. Process went smoothly and - I used to scoff at this - it IS like getting a new camera. In a good way. But on the other hand it also means that some time will be needed to absorb the new features and changes. Be patient and take the time. I wouldn't update 10 minutes before a paid gig or once-in-a-lifetime event. I'm really digging my X-T10 in an RF-style body.

Funny, I don't recall anyone referring to 24x36 as 'Full Frame' until APS-C digital sensors came along. But I'm old and my memory may be failing.

I will "third" that excellent advice. Forget about "equivalence." It's an illusion. Use the format. Learn the format. I laugh when people call 24x36 "full frame." I learned on Medium Format and I never really accepted 135 as the quality choice. Newspapers? Sure - convenience and portability win in that environment. But for quality film work - even MF is a compromise. "Full frame" is 8 inches by 10 inches. 300mm is a "normal lens."

I get the cost advantage to Reuters - it's their business. But the "ethics" argument is total bullshit. Just say you're passing some more costs on to your independent contractors, no need to invent some crap about photographer's ethics.

New sensor. Call it a day. The tilt screen would be nice. I remain unsure about the future of the X-E line, even though it's my strong preference among the Fuji cameras. It seems really hard to justify having an X-E3 and an X-T10 occupying the same place in the lineup except for EVF position. Of course, how Fuji introduces the next generation of sensors could change all that. A 24mp X-E3 could come out a few years before an X-T20...

There are detailed instructions on the a Fuji website about the App. It was a gigantic pain-in-the-rear-end to get it to connect the first time, but once I did, it works pretty well. (Fuji X-E2 + iPhone 5s) Make sure you have a jpg on the camera to transfer, I'm a RAW shooter and that tripped me up. Ha, found it. Not on the main Fuji site!?! http://app.fujifilm-dsc.com/en/ Good luck!

Ai (stands for "aperture indexing" - 1977 to present) Nikkors have a small tab on the aperture ring to engage with and communicate the selected aperture to the meter. There is also a small lever that sticks out of the mount that allows the camera to operate the aperture blades. AF and AF-D lenses have them as well. Newer G type lenses omit the former and the newest E type lenses the latter. The later 200/4 is a super lens! Small, light, super cheap, and quite sharp. I still use it on my XE-2...one of the only adapted lenses I still use.

Great summary, Patrick. Thank you so much for your work for the Fuji community! Now about that X70 rumor: We're hearing more rumors about an X70 coming out as a continuation of that "small" X line. What not just admit the compact camera thing (sensors smaller than 1") is done and make a zoom X100Z? APS-C or 1" sensor and a limited zoom range would be fine with me, as long as the lens was reasonably fast (ish) and sharp. Is the X70 just an attempt to bring the "feel" of "X-photgraphy" to starters for the lowest possible price?

Yeah. Still have my D7000, and yes, the X-E(1 or 2) is a bit of a battery hog in comparison. (And the battery is considerably smaller.) But better than my D800 w/GPS unit. You simply have to remember to carry a spare in your pocket - it's not an option. Mirrorless is a different animal - it's a video camera - because of the EVF - it's like running a DSLR in live-view mode all the time. Try leaving the Nikon in live view and see how long the battery lasts... The viewfinder can trick you - if you have a lot of the info on screen - as it's east to accidentally frame with the focus scale or exposure scale. Or you simply see things in the image you did not notice because they were covered by an info display. Try turning it all off. I guess it would be nice if one could set the LCD to show all info (histogram, etc.) and the EVF to show clean except for AF point.... Enjoy your X-E2 - it's a fine camera.

It's usually implemented in cameras with built-in flashes to prevent overheating and battery sag. Makes no sense whatsoever on a camera with a PC connection and no built in flash....classic firmware bug. Kind of adds insult to injury in a system that has such lousy native flash options. And slowish sync speed (excepting X100 series). And no wireless TTL. And no direct control of flash exposure comp on most (any? maybe X-T1 & 10?) models. And by direct I mean a dedicated button. Or at least the darn Q-menu! (Sorry - I try not to be negative, but I'm going to assume that Fuji may actually pay some small attention to this forum. Consider it feedback from an actual user.)

The OP would be much better served by thinking more about what kind of photography they want to do rather than what bit of gear "upgrade" they should buy next.

The effect varies with the position of the filter, the relative position of the light source, and the type of light - that's why polarizers turn - so you can adjust the effect to the particular image. The result can be subtle or dramatic.

Love that polarizer viewer! Takes me back to Leica days - my old one (slip on 36 from Leitz NY) flipped from the lens to the viewfinder. You kind of need one if you stick with the X-Pro OVF! Never had a problem with an EVF or SLR... Maybe handy with an A or an M in bright sunlight? I think the hot shoe covers are quite functional as they keep the edges of the shoe from catching on things, the keep the shoe contacts clean, and help prevent dust and moisture from getting in the locking hole. These are nice, but I would probably laugh at the price and make my own. I notice these have the notch in the corner for use on an old Leica.

Review with actual measurements at Lenstip is out: http://www.lenstip.com/456.1-Lens_review-Fujifilm_Fujinon_XF_35_mm_f_2_R_WR_Introduction.html VERY impressive on the edges @ 2.0 - best @ 2.0, as a matter of fact! Very "Summicron" like to the 35/1.4 "Summilux" - as I had hoped. Shoot the 2.0 for resolution and clinical accuracy and shoot the 1.4 for "character" - well done, Fuji!

I think you are wise to limit your expectations. I, for one, will not be holding my breath thinking that an FW update will turn my X-E2 into a D7200 as far as focus tracking goes. But we can't completely discount the possibility that the FW update will do very different things to the different models. Honestly, I can't think of that much that much my X-E2 doesn't do for me (the way I use it - like a digital Contax G). Exposure compensation in manual exposure mode+auto-iso would be really nice.

Scariest rumor of the year for those of us who have attempted to leave the Adobe-sphere. Halloween prank? Fortunately, the $ figure seems ridiculously low. Of course, we all know Adobe has plenty more to offer.

Hopefully, the new 35/2 will relate to the 35/1.4 like the Summicron is to the Summilux. More even performance across the frame and a slightly higher resolution in the center. Quieter, faster AF would help. At a slightly lower price it will sell very well even next to the 35/1.4 - some folks will opt for the speed, some for the small size and resolution. But I probably wouldn't sell my 35/1.4 to get the new lens. I don't think the WR is that big of a deal. Without an IPX rating, it's just marketing. It's good to have, but for goodness sakes don't rely on it.