Rico Pfirstinger wrote some books on Fuji X-cameras incl. a few pages on DR. It's in all of his X-pert Tips books. Furthermore, cambridgeincolour.com has extensive explanation pages on all sorts of photographic topics. Just search on their site for dynamic range. The key is that you cannot correct blown-out highlights but it is easy to correct deep shadows in post processing. Cameras have two ways of addressing this: either an HDR-feature or an extended DR feature.
The extended DR-setting on the camera works for jpegs. It typically underexposes your raw file by 1 or 2 stops and than with the in-camera raw conversion to jpeg it leaves the highlights as is and amplifies only the midtones and shadows to produce a jpeg with detailed highlights (because under exposed) and nice blacks and greys (corrected in camera). Effectively its 1 extra stop of DR in practice.
The HDR feature actually creates multiple images with an exposure bracket and combines these images into one, using the highlights of the underexposed image and the shadows and midtones of the other images. HDR can also be used for raw images in post.
As for your typical situation, you only use raw-files and no jpeg I believe. Best approach IMO is to leave the DR setting to 100% and do the exposure correction in Affinity Photo. In order to do that you should set the live view function on to see the effect of the exposure on screen and switch on the histogram. Than set the exposure in such a way that the highlights (right part of the histogram) do not blow out. So stay within the border of the histogram at the right. The shadows might get blocked and the midtones way darker than you want, but that is easily corrected in post with the Shadow and Midtone sliders.
By using this method you can use the base ISO of the camera (ISO100 in case of the GFX50R) which is always preferable in landscape photography. The fact that below ISO320 the camera limits you to DR 200% is because it needs 'room' to do the corrections. From 320 to 2 stops down is ISO80 which the camera cannot handle (ISO100 is the lowest) without trics like extended low ISO which you should only use as a last resort.
Though I don't use Affinity Photo and I therefore can't check it, it is most likely caused by the Dynamic Range setting. By setting DR to 400% you're essentially underexposing by 2 stops. I know that Capture One reads the RAF-file and adjusts accordingly. It's very likely that Affinity doesn't do that. Whether it's for all Fujifilm cameras or only for this one (GFX50R?), I can't tell. RAF-files from the GFX cameras are different from the X-Trans cameras. Even between the different models there are variations, hence that software specifies not the sensor type/generation but specifically the camera model.
Looking for folks who enjoy light painting with their Fuji cameras.
Been having some fun the last few years and looking to find others who enjoy this type of photography.
Opera Glasses by Wes Taylor, on Flickr
This stores the value you entered into the EXIF data. That can be useful if at some point in the future you want to remind yourself which focal length (lens) you used to get that image. Additionally, if your raw converter allows you to use custom lens profiles during the conversion process, this information already being in the data can save you some time by selecting the appropriate one for you. The lens profile can contain information regarding how much vignetting the lens has for a given f-stop, how flat or fish-eyed a lens is, etc. Many raw converters have some generic profiles they use for lens that cover a wide variety of settings.
It does no harm to leave it empty, filling it in and remembering to use may give you some extra options.
A lot of hints concerning the Fuji X Cameras can be found in this and other forums. Some are given as answers to questions others are posted as results of just exploring the cameras. Not everything is printed in the manual or is at least not to be found there easily. On the other side, these hints are not quickly accessible since they are hidden inside (long) threads.
Beginning now, we will pick up hints from different sources and place them in this special thread which will be complemented from time to time.
We are sure this will help everyone using their Fuji X cameras. Please leave us feedback or additional hints to add to our collection. Thanks to everyone who gave these hints in threads of our forum.
As far as possible, these hints are verified using an X-T2 or an X100F.
AFL Button not working
If the AFL (Autofokus Lock) Button does not show any response it is most likely due to active face recognition. Disable face recognition and AF-L will work again.
Shutter not working with adapted lens
Inside the menu there is a setting SHOOT WITHOUT LENS. Turn it on to shoot with an adapted lens.
Flash not working
Most likely the electronic shutter has been activated. Only the mechanical shutter supports flashing. Go to the menu setting SHUTTER TYPE and select MS or MS+ES (on some models it might be necessary to select MS).
Can’t select ISO100
Another issue when using the electronic shutter, ISO setting starts with 200. Use the mechanical shutter for ISO100.
Generally, it is not recommended to use ISO100, since the sensor is designed for ISO200 (I will spare you the technical details). Rather dim the light reaching the sensor by using the ND filter wich is implemented on many models, or use an attachable ND filter.
Bands in the photo or fringed edges on moving targets The electronic shutter is responsible here, too. Using it can result in interferences with some light sources and give you banding in your photos. The banding is not necessarily visible in the viewfinder or on the display. Rather use the mechanical shutter when shooting with artificial light.
Another issue of the electronic shutter is called „rolling shutter effect“. To put it simple, it takes too long to read out the complete sensor while objects are moving fast. Again, use the mechanical shutter with fast moving objects, e.g. when doing sports photography. If you need to dim the light reaching the sensor to go get slower (mechanical) shutter speeds use attachable ND filters and/or the built in ND filter.
Autofocus not working anymore
If the little red box resists to become green even though there is definitely enough light for the autofocus system, there are two possibilities:
The little switch on the front (on the side of the X100) is set to M (manual focus). Switch it to S or C.
The lens stopped working properly (autofocus function crashed somehow). Put the little switch to M and back so S or C and most likely the lens will work properly again. Alternatively, switch the camera off and on, but this will take more time than the first procedure.
Locking D-Pad and Q button Press and hold the MENU/OK button until a lock symbol and ON appear. This locks the D-Pad and the Q button. All other buttons are still operational, even the D-Pad works when you go the the menu.
To reactivate D-Pad and Q button press and hold MENU/OK again until the lock symbol and OFF appear.
If you own an X-H1 you can configure the buttons which will be locked using LOCK SETTING inside the menu.
Deactivating the annoying Q-Button
On some models the Q button is placed quite adversely so you might press it accidentally. Just deactivate it using the procedure described above (lock cursor buttons and Q button).
Until now only with the X-H1, you can disable just the Q button with the LOCK SETTING.
The viewfinder is not working / the display is not working
Most likely you pushed the button VIEW MODE. It’s quite easy doing so accidentally on some models. This results in changing the default behaviour, which is switching between viewfinder and display automatically (using an eye sensor next to the viewfinder).
So, if the viewfinder or the display seems not to be working tip the button VIEW MODE until an eye symbol and SENSOR appear on the display or viewfinder, respectively. And be careful not to trigger the eye sensor with your hand during this procedure (as a left handed person, this happens to me all the time).
The camera appears to be dead
If your camera doesn’t do anything after switching it on and the battery is definitely charged you may have loaded a defective or incompatible SD card. Unload the card(s) and try to switch the camera on. If the camera is working now servicing is most likely not necessary, just use another card.
Another option is to remove the battery and wait for about half a minute before putting it back in. Try without inserted SD-Card first. If it works the camera just needed a kind of reset, like other computers do 😉
Dead or stuck pixels If the viewfinder or the display (or the resulting photos) show some dead (black) or stuck (coloured) pixels, they should be gone after a while since the camera is doing a pixel remapping by itself from time to time. You can also start the remapping process from the menu on recent models. If the stuck or dead pixels resist this process servicing is needed. However, not all models do support pixel remapping.
Indicator lamp blinks green and orange after shot
Probably you have IMAGE DISPLAY set to Continuous. Change the setting in the Menu under SCREEN SETTING.
If you'd like to add or correct something, feel free to comment.
Just switch EVF mode by looking through it and press "DISP BACK" button for constant histogram
ALso make sure to turn on SCREEN SET-UP > DISP.CUSTOM SETTING > HISTOGRAM
