photobob

Thanks for the input. It does surprise me that many of the "so called" expert reviewers seem to have it wrong. Coming from film, old school, I rarely shoot in burst so the reduced burst amount is not a big issue . But I appreciate the info on power consumption. Battery life is really the only weakness of this series, but the solution is to carry more batteries, or the grip if you don't mind the extra bulk. Not rocket science.

I purchased my XT2 in August 2017 and have devoured the manual . I also watch a lot of Youtube. Almost every reference on Youtube about Boost Mode says its only available with the booster grip. The manual does not state this. I select it in the camera, and I notice the improvement in the refresh rate in the viewfinder , faster focusing and faster burst. Am I hallucinating? Or is it actually enabled without the battery grip? ( as part of a firmware upgrade) My shooting style rarely requires the additional AF Speed but I use it primarily for the finder refresh rate.

Sorry for the delay , I don't visit the forum often. If you haven't solved the issue yet, check these conditions. I assume the cards are not locked. I assume you tried them in the XT3 Are you trying odd brand cards? They should work but I find SanDisk (the recommended card) rarely have issues. This part I am not sure of . Are the cards used in the XT3 compatible with the XT2 ? Most cameras are backward compatible, but newer cards cannot be used with older cameras XT2 cards SDXC are the latest card that can be used . If all is good, Did you reset the camera to factory specs? If that doesn't solve the issue , you have a camera problem. Good luck, Bob

I've been shooting my XT2 since 2017 and generally shoot Raw + . But occasionally I find that I inadvertently tweaked the selected white balance by toggling the " fine adjustment". I have found the fine adjustment not necessary (for my shooting style) . But when desired, I can tweak it in post. Is there anyway to disable this feature?

I recently noticed , after 3 years of being a Fujifilm user, that when I change focal length on my 50 - 200 or even my 18 - 55, that the focus remains constant on the original subject. But it seems to take a few milliseconds to register in the viewfinder. Are the lenses actually true zoom formula, or are they Varifocals that go into CAF when the focal length is changed? Either way for stills it works well. I don't do video , so I haven't tried a motion zoom. Something to ponder while being in a lockdown.......... stay well ....Bob

Switching to sequential has been my way of saving the shoot. When I would switch to sequential it would still save Raw & JPEG on the card in slot 1. I guess you are right ,except I cant se any value of being able to shoot without a card. By the way. that setting of "shoot without card" is not in the manual, it must have been included with a firmware update. I never mentioned I use a XT-2 Thanks for the comment.......Bob

Lately I've been forgetting to replace my SD card that I use for JPEG capture. I had done this occasionally when I first got the camera and could reset the recording sequence to slot #1 then 2 and was able to continue to shoot. However I notice there is a setting that allows you to shoot without a card ( setup, button dial, page 2 ) that when set to on implies that I should be able to shoot if "No Card" is set to on. But it does not work . Am I misunderstanding the function?

Me Again, Almost 3 years with my xt2 and just finished 2 months in the English North country. Trying to be creative during the Pandemic and taking regular walks shooting flowers, landscape and family. About the batteries: The 126 & 126 s batteries are virtually the same with the "s" having more output. I still have my original plus 2 OEM branded and 4 aftermarket (Kastar & Bonicell) all still going and rotated regularly. There has been no swelling with my remaining aftermarket batteries, but I do notice they only last about 80% +or - as long as the OEM. Note: Since my July 16,2019 post I have used both the OEM Fujifilm AC charger and the USB dual charger supplied with my Kastar batteries with no apparent difference in charging time, heat, or battery capacity when fully charged. If you haven't checked out the link in George P's early post, do it when you can...………. great info.

Thanks to Dom X and to you for the Link. I did contribute to him when I read the article. This was, by far the most, informative article on lithium camera batteries. Bob

After reading many of the comments and experiencing some of the issues, I took a chance and purchased two FUJIFILM 126s batteries offered at around $ 20 each from a couple of e-bay vendors. I was aware that they could possibly be counterfeit, but I gave them a try with the attitude that if so I am likely to get similar service as the aftermarket ones. If they were really Fujifilm batteries I would get service that compares with the OEM supplied with my X-T2. Because of my shooting style I don't get near the rated capacity of any battery including the OEM On arrival I inspected them side by side with the original and it was identical in every way, down to the etched production information on the end with the orange dot. After a few weeks of service, I have been keeping track of capacity and performance and so far they are slightly better than my original, which is two years old. Most notable is that the capacity indicator decreases just like my original down to a blinking red when near empty. My other aftermarket batteries (Bonicell & Kastar) would die at any time after showing 50% depleted. I have always used a USB charger since purchasing my first aftermarket batteries, with no apparent harm to the OEM but I have had swelling with the aftermarket and would immediately discard the battery. It should be noted that Kastar sent me a replacement (without return) when I reported swelling . (Im looking for the cord for the AC Fujifilm Charger and will put it back in service to see if any difference occurs. I'm much better informed thanks to George P's research ) One thing to mention is I don't do video, so I cant report the performance differences. So far ,So good . If these are actual Fujifilm 126s Batteries, and they seem to be, it was a good deal at $20 +/- . Time will tell. Bob

Make sure you are using the latest DNG Converter. I have not had that issue. I also convert my RAF to DNG since I still work in CS-6 but I also save my RAF files. Good luck

Took me awhile to find this post on batteries, the link posted by Milandro was very helpful. I have used my X-T2 for almost 2 years and the FUJIFILM 126s, included with the kit is still the best battery. I have always used aftermarket batteries with generally OK performance with my Pentax and Canon gear but the Fujifilm XT2 "eats" batteries during a shoot, so I always carry at least 4 when I go out. One important thing is that I don't use the video function which is the biggest reason all cameras overheat. The aftermarket batteries will usually give me about 75% of the shots as the OEM but that was not an issue. What was ? Swelling due to overheating . But it is not brand specific. As mentioned in the link many brands are made in the same Chinese factories so the quality cannot be determined by the "Brand" . Using a brand with a good reputation has one advantage. The company will usually have a guarantee. Out of the 8 aftermarket batteries I purchased, I discarded 2 after a years use due to slightly swelling. Once this happens I don't re install them in the camera, but I got good use out of them for under $20 total cost. Others of the same brand are still working OK but I do notice that the number of shots going down. I will eventually take those out of rotation, but charge them as backups on long trips. I number, date, and rotate batteries . A practice started when shooting pro, years ago. I changed brand with my replacements and one of them started swelling after a short time in the rotation . But the difference was the Brand (Kastar) , when I reported the problem they replaced it without the need of returning the bad one. Swelling will not usually cause a problem if you find it early. The first indication is when ejecting you need to tap the body after pushing the release tab. The easiest way to tell if the battery is swollen . Lay it on a flat surface on its side. If it rocks ,even a little bit it's swollen. Also if it spins like a top, It's swollen. If you continue to use the battery it can swell more and be difficult to remove from the camera , don't let this happen. The first batteries were Bonacell purchased on E-bay under $10 each The Kastar batteries were a little more . After reading the info in the link I will make my next replacements Watson ($19 - 26) from a variety of vendors. The review after testing was very good. This forum is great ,but sometimes hard to find subjects that address issues you have.

Thanks Sharkey4711, Confession; By the time I finished the post it seemed like the problem cleared up...…… I did not know what I did ,if anything, to resolve it. Today I was shooting under the exact same conditions and before the shoot I cleaned the UV filter, that I keep on the camera. All worked fine except I did something else to the camera. I usually shoot with no review (chimping) with only the EVF & eye sensor. I occasionally will push the rear screen review button and check the image, but tonight the screen remained blank and the review was only shown in the EVF. Again this had never happened before, so I changed the view mode and looked for something I could have accidentally switched. Nothing was obvious but after toggling a few menu items things came back to normal...….. I have no Idea what I did to cause or correct it. In one of my first post , I listed what I did not like about the X-T2 and one was the many settings. But as was suggested in the replies, I would learn them as I used the camera. And that was right. After a year and a half I have found most of my control errors are caused by accidentally moving a dial, and I recover quickly. Still love this camera.

When I first got my XT-2 one of the things I complained about was the higher contrast in the EVF . After a while I got use to it and realized the exposed file would look great. Today I was shooting a event indoors ISO 8000 and the contrast all of a sudden was too low. When I reviewed the image on the rear display it looks fine. I had accidentally changed the white balance to Underwater, but that wasn't the problem. When I corrected it nothing changed in the viewfinder. I was shooting with the 55 - 200 and I forgot my lens hood. I suspected the overhead fluorescents could be the issue but when I switched to the 18 -55 the image still looked like I was looking through dirty glasses (I was ) but that was not the issue. I was shooting during the day , outside, and it was bright & sunny here in Arizona . Everything looked fine I searched the menu to find if I may have accidentally changed a setting but the EVF brightness was still set on Auto. I did try setting it manually but the image still looked flat. I could not find a setting for contrast. Any suggestions ? I'm writing this at night and have not checked the daylight contrast since it was OK this morning (BTW the underwater White balance setting had a nice look to it) Thanks in advance for help...… Bob

Hi GovMule. I hadn't checked this feed for a while, but after seeing answers to my previous post, I started to save the RAF's that I had previously discarded after converting to DNG I recently downloaded the free Capture One Express for Fujifilm, and to my surprise my DNG converted images look better than those from Capture One. I used one of my own images rather than the one suggested by Graflex. But there seems to be a lot of chatter about Xtran sensors & resolution and then a lot of images that look great to me. I looked at busy areas and high detailed parts in images I processed from converted DNG and processed in Camera Raw ( Old version in CS-6) and they were better than what I got in the Capture One software from the RAF's . I am using the latest DNG converter. It could just be me, I'm not a "Pixel Peeper"

Get a cheap digital multimeter set it on DC Volts ( start with the lowest range) and fire the flash while putting the red + lead on the center contact then the black lead on the metal side contact. If the voltage is less than 10vdc you are likely ok. If higher I would not use it directly connected. You may also be able to find a website that will tell you the trigger voltage of many flashes. I had the address saved, but I noticed it had not been updated , just search . I don't know how the connection is made in the Fuji but I assume it is electronic. Older cameras had mechanical contacts that could be" fried " by high voltage. I use many old flashes , my preference is the Vivitar 550 ( trigger voltage 8.5 volts + or - ) but I don't connect them to my camera. I use a radio sync system very cheap on e bay , usually around $15 for one flash. connect the controller to the hot shoe ( < 5 volts ) and the other to the flash. Get that flash off the camera for best results. I use as many as 6 strobes. These units are all the same and fail occasionally . I have purchased about 10 in the last 10 years, still cheaper than the old WEIN units of yesteryear. Hope this helps.....Bob

When I was shooting Pentax ,and still working, I usually upgraded every other model because there was enough improvement to make it worthwhile. In late 2017 I made the switch to the XT system for two reasons. First there was and still has not been a replacement for the Pentax K3 in APS c ( still no replacement after 5 years) but mostly because my kit was becoming to get too heavy. Now , I love the XT 2 and the great glass in my kit, but I like the upgrades of the XT3 . The question I ask myself . Is the faster autofocus or better low light performance going to give me better images, of what I shoot and my shooting style? For me the answer is no. As I lose agility my style has changed with my subject matter. I also review images I shot 10 years ago when 10 -15 megapixel was the rage, and found I was doing better work because I was able to work harder and longer to get good images. I'm in the 4th quarter of my photographic journey and the gear I have is far superior to anything I have ever used, so I like to think the chase is over . I said that before ,just wait till they announce the XT4 😁 But seriously, I recently compared Images from my XT2 with the Kit 18- 55 to Images I shot with my Mamiya RB 67 ( a camera with 120 film and 6 x 7 cm film size) the APS c blows them away. Imaging and cameras will always get better, to me It makes sense to change when the upgrades will make your images better. That is usually done by improving technique over buying new gear.

I'm in the second year with my X-T2 and when I saw the reviews of the X-T3 I saw a few things that peaked my interest too. But after considering my shooting needs , I did not think the upgrade would make me a better photographer. Like you, I don't do video. But the advantage over the X-T1 could be significant depending on your photographic needs (not wants) . The16 mpx of the X-T1 really is enough for great prints of 16 x 20 +. Coming from Pentax, all X series cameras focus much faster and more accurate . I also rarely use the boost mode, only needed for fast action. If you shoot a lot of low light photography, you, and I, could benefit from the improved sensors lower noise at higher ISO, but low noise is relative ( see the attached image I took, as a guest, at a wedding . ISO 12,800 with the 18-55 f2.8-4). As long as you are satisfied with your results stop chasing gear. The next camera will always be better than the last...………. I am waiting for the new camera with auto composition. That could help. Keep shooting

May not be a issue but I seem to have one. I have a circular polarizer that I previously used with my Pentax System. Since changing to Fujiffilm when I use it on my XT2 the effect is uneven across the frame. I use a good Tiffin filter , but it is not one of the newest with all of the coatings. Could this be related to the X trans Sensor? My previous had a Bayer configuration. If this is not a usual issue I will submit a few images for review...….before I spend big bucks on B+W or another high end brand.

Thanks for the comments. SW Rick seems to share the frustration I have with DXO . It has always been my choice for noise reduction (Prime) and once a file is converted to a DNG you would think it would be easily read......agreed it's their loss. Thanks Graflex ( I use to use one) . Your right about not getting worked up since most of my work is event, street, travel and candid portrait, I have not noticed . But I am getting more involved with landscape work so I will start saving the RAF's which I have discarded in the past. The included photo gives a good indication of the issue. When I encountered it I just added a little " Clarity" in camera raw. Going back to using my Graflex 4 x 5 or my RB-67 , I look at a few of the commercial images I produced with them now, and they don't compare to the IQ produced with the crop sensor in the X-T2. Those who are reaching their photographic maturity in the digital age are fortunate to be working with this equipment . The" nit picking" on image quality will only make it better. Bob 😁

I have been shooting Fuji X (T-2) for about 18 month and generally shoot Raw +. I use the JPEG most of the time since they are outstanding. After communicating with DXO on why they don't support the XT they basically said it was because of the X tran sensor and their algorithms are designed for the Bayer array. I used the DXO prime noise reduction when needed. Since I still use stand alone Photoshop CS-6 it will also not open my Raw Files. My previous system was Pentax and I shot in Adobe DNG with satisfactory results. The DNG ,being a universal file format gave me confidence that it will be around. So my current workflow is to convert my RAF files to DNG and I am happy with the results.... but after reading about conversion on this forum, I would like to know what I am missing by not using the converters usually discussed. When I first got the Fujifilm X t2 I made and compared images from the Raw files converted with the Fujifilm software and those files converted with the Adobe DNG Converter and did not notice any difference in the output quality, so I am curious why the users are using the other available conversion software? Photobob (Bob H)

I have used both OEM and aftermarket batteries since I went digital over10 years ago. I find that OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) will generally provide more exposures and last longer than after market. However the cost difference is a major factor and I can usually buy 5 or more aftermarket for less than 1 OEM so I generally buy aftermarket. I date & number my batteries and use them in order .Some aftermarket batteries advertise higher mAh (Milli ampere hours) that would indicate longer performance, but I never noticed a difference. I have had a XT-2 for about 2 years and have used 2 brands of aftermarket batteries with no performance issues , however I noticed a couple of my BONACELL batteries did not release as easily when ejecting them from the camera. So I made a closer inspection and found a very slight swelling so I discarded them . Other of the same brand are working fine. The average cost was $5 and they were almost 2 years old. I replaced them with KASTAR brand. So far so good. Virtually all batteries are made in China and only a few manufacturers, so it is a matter of branding , it can be a "crap shoot" unless you can find out who makes the OEM brand. Battery technologies are not secrets. Keep them charged and inspect them and you are not likely to have serious issues. Hope this helps …………...Bob

Sounds to me like you have something in the hole. Check closely to make sure. If not, it is not likely that all three releases are bad. I just checked my XT-2 and I have a few different brands of 2.5 mm jack releases and they all work. The contact points in the hole are likely just flexed metal for the side and that can be flexed too much and lose contact. Try wiggling the plug when you engage the shutter button. If all else fails consider getting a remote trigger that fits the USB (small part) or go truly retro and get a cable release. Either one of these work-arounds would likely be much cheaper than having the socket replaced. Good luck...…….Bob

Hi Mike I meant 29 Celsius, which I believe is 85 Fahrenheit , It is cool at night and hot in the daytime here in the desert.